KA8

Approx 130K miles, the car looks mint inside and out. Looks like it was maintained by an enthusiast. Passed smog, A/C works, all the works. I've owned some mercedes in my lifetime and generally they've been good because I had warranty. So I did some research and looks like these cars are reliable in general but can be costly to maintain.

I know what 'expensive to maintain' means. Got a Twin Turbo 300ZX that I do my own maintenance on. These cars cheap to get but very expensive maintain. I've done Timing Belt/WP, clutch replacement, injectors, some suspension work on my Z. If I were to take it to mechanic for everything I won't be able to afford the maintenance. Having said that How are 190e's in terms of reliability? Looking to DD this one while Z is for weekends. I could get a new car with payments but I already have a car payment so I'd like to be able to get a cheap DD until at least current loan is paid off. Of course I looked at Lexus, toyota, hondas but in my price range, they're all crap.

Thanks in advance.

DocWalla

Well, I got a '91 190e 2.3 8v 5speed. 198k. Paid $1200 because it was backed into. I live in Arizona so no worries of rust.. BUT.. Rubber is a different story. Everything made of rubber has come off in pieces when replacing. Coolant float to valve cover gasket. I've done this so far..
Strut mounts
Struts
Springs
Tie rod assembly both sides
Lower control arm assembly both sides
Center drag link
Steering stabilizer/damper
Valve cover gasket
Intake manifold gasket (On my way to get to driver engine mount)
Both engine mounts
Transmission mount
Clk rims since the originals had fix a flat and no chrome left on the beads so they leaked
Plugs
Wires
Coolant over flow line from the water pump housing to overflow tank.
Fan clutch switch
Hazard lights switch
New radio and speakers. Stereo needed a factory unlock. Was cheaper to put a clarion in. (Wiring is a ***** for the stereo. There is a fader wheel and they share a common negative from the factory wire harness. Save yourself the frustration and just pull new 14awg pure oxygen free copper)
..
Still have some things to fix.
That list...
Gas gauge
Hood
Grill
Headlight and blinker driver side
A/c is the old r12. It's dry. Needs to have the oil drained, new o rings, r13 fill fitted and a double flush at the tune of 350$
And wait for it... Engine is down 15% compression on all cylinders.
Abs light comes on after 55mph like clock work. Maybe speed sensor in rear diff/axle
Still runs a tad warm in slow traffic, nothing the fans don't keep in check but a new radiator or at least flush.
Shifter linkage needs a rebuild as sometimes it won't go into gear without releasing the clutch then trying again. Normally 1st and rev. Most likely syncro too. And clutch in the next 15k I'm sure.
Bottom line.. Get one in good condition and this won't be an issue. Mine was neglected for years before I got it.

Even though its a royal **** to work on sometimes, I wouldn't give up my 190 for anything... Except a 2.5 Evo of course..

DocWalla

If you want to get under her skirt.. http://www.startekinfo.com/StarTek/o...tedDocId=11832

DocWalla

And remember.. 91+ only. At 20-23 city 24-27 hwy. 17gal tank. Same bosch k jetronic injection as the old Porsches.. Reliable but constant flow injection type isn't known for efficiency. If you want power down the line, stand alone efi ftw!

KA8

Thanks good to know. It's a 92 so that's good. Will go see it this afternoon. Also good mpg numbers are definitely a plus too

DocWalla

The engine is pretty bulletproof. Auto trans have problems though.. Hard shifting, slipping, etc. park it on a hill, put it in drive and let off the brake after 3 seconds. If it rolls back and doesn't creep forward like an auto does... Run.