DocWalla

So there's a build using a ford focus obx cold air kit. But my question is which part number is the correct one for the kit used.

Build write up. http://www.2phast.com/190e/airintake.htm

Obx website with 4 different options and no pictures per kit. http://www.obxracingsports.com/products.php?pk=1351

Which of the 4 intake kits is the correct one?

SacredE60AMG

I am new to this forum and new to the Mercedes Benz 190e. I am currently in process of buying a 1985 Mercedes-Benz 190e 2.3 8V with 105,000 original miles (original 2 owner car). From my understanding, they can get a bit sluggish. First comes a basic tune up and then a cold air intake.

I can't ever leave any car I own stock (I have my track toy which is a 2011 Corvette ZR-1 with a tad over 748hp, stage 3 Lingenfelter GT9 package)

Anyways back to the 190e. I was looking at the post you posted about the other guys 190e intake and I searched ebay for 4" 90 degree silicone pipe and thats the best way to go.

I figure the 4" to 3.5" 90 degree bend silicone coupler, a piece of aluminum pipe cut to size and then a K&N, or another brand of cone filter at the end (I typically stay away from the filters with the plastic heat shield like the guy in the link because with extreme heat, the plastic melts. Also it's a Mercedes-Benz not a Honda Civic.

DocWalla

Actually, a 4" won't work because of two reasons..
1: the opening is 4.25"
2:the regular 90 degree pipes will not clear the hood.
Solution found: mass meter boot from an early 90 s vw golf 16v fits perfectly over the opening, is a flexible 90 degree bend, is low profile and will clear the hood, and has a spot on the side for the air flow sensor to mount. The hole will need to be modified to accept the locking tabs on the oe sensor, but should be easy. If you need part numbers or anything for it let me know. I still need to get the intake pipe, and heat sheilded (aluminum sheild) forward opening filter, but funds are low atm. I will post pictures of the mod once it is complete

DocWalla

Also, I have done all the tune up required. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, filters (fuel, air, oil, power steering), fuel pump, all fluid flushes, motor mounts, tranny mount, diff service, intake manifold gasket, decarb of engine, and fuel service, upgraded high flow exhaust, front suspension in its entirety, and lots of other small things I can't remember off hand. Next up after the cold air is new clutch, braided steel lines on the whole brake and fuel system, and some new tires lol 😁

MTI

When you're done with the CAI, can you run a dyno for us? The reason being that no one ever has and there's never been a showing that a CAI improves over the existing CAI that Mercedes designed. If you're using the original CIS fuel injection system, the intake system is NOT starved for cool air.

DocWalla

I would love to put my car on a dyno pre and post mod... If someone was to finance the endeavor. Lol. The last couple parts I need are on the way in the mail as I type this. I will post a full write up to this thread with detailed pictures, including parts numbers/links to all items used. To go along with the cai mod I will be adding some toggle switches to override the fan controls for the electromagnetic fan clutch, as well as the electric fan (high speed switch), without interfering with the original operations of said fans. I live in Arizona and summer is around the corner, along with the 120+ degree freeway air temperature. The 2.3 fans do absolutely nothing until the temp hits 100 degrees Celsius. By this point the ecu switches the ignition map to start retardation of timing and cutting power to protect the motor. The switches will complete the circuit for the fans independently of each other at the 100 and 110 degree fan switches respectively for each fan. This will make for a much happier motor and better fuel economy regardless of the cai. But combined with the cai mod, resignator delete, high flow cat and muffler mods, should see a decent drivability increase if nothing else. I'm hoping for some extra power, but I'll be happy if I only achieve keeping the systems cool and increasing efficiency of the oe systems by keeping the ecu map at optimization, and out of retardation.

MTI

1) Even 2Phast aka Rik Johnson acknowledges that the CAI he put together didn't affect anything but his "Seat of the Pants Dyno." If you're convinced that your engine is air starved, then I suggest you consider doing what AMG did . . . use the air scoop and ducting from a 260E airbox, which is slightly larger than the 190E scoop and duct.

2) Living in AZ as well, if your cooling system is in good working order, the 2.3L should be able to maintain a constant 80C. If not, then you've got issues with the cooling system.

3) Increasing flow on the exhaust side is the easiest way of getting the engine hp and efficiency up a bit.

Good luck with your mods and enjoy the car.

DocWalla

The air scoop I'm using should get just as much air as the 260 box, if not more. Driving is fine, but parked on the freeway in stand still traffic or sitting at a light for more then 2 cycles of red to green in traffic in the summer I will see temp push the 100 c mark and hit the fan clutch on. I want to use the over ride switches to run the electric fans when needed or wanted. The whole cooling system is new. Water pump, radiator, hoses, thermostat, auxiliary coolant pump for the heater core. All of it. It doesn't over heat, but it's not as cool as I'd like it to run.

MTI

I'm pretty sure we have the same weather and my '85 2.3-16 does not hit 100C at stops or in a parking lot and seem rock solid at 80C even with the AC running.

DocWalla

Mine is a 1991 2.3 liter 8v. Slightly different systems.

MTI

In what way? 4 cylinder M102 block, radiator, thermostat, water pump, aux pump, heater core valve, heater core, temp sensor . . .