pinebaron

I did my oil change myself this last weekend. It is easy. This may already be documented elsewhere but I am writing this up anyway.

A little history first. Following delivery on 6/29, I had done 850 miles in the first 5 days; I had the dealer perform the first oil change. Now it is not about cost at all but my local dealer is closed on Saturdays, closes at 5pm on weekdays and I get home around 7pm. I had to do something especially with my phobia about oil change every 3000-5000 miles max. I took a couple of hours off work on Friday and bought 42 quarts (7 cases, I left the dealer with 3 cases) and the only three oil filters he had for my car. Earlier last week, I ordered a MityVac 7300 PneumaticVac - Air Operated Fluid Evacuator; I never knew this device existed and I have to thank some forum contributor for this information. The device arrived on Wednesday, three days after ordering. I also purchased an appropriate oil filter removal tool from Pep Boys.

Self oil change at 3450 miles (since new).
Since I was not going to drain oil via the drain plug, I did some experimentation (using the dip stick); I discovered if I parked the car on my sloping driveway, facing up, the dip stick indicated a high oil level. This led me to believe it was a good position to drain oil from the dipstick hole. I got everything ready. Removed engine cover; no tools required; simply apply pressure on four corners with care and it lifts off. Air compressor running (you will need an air compressor if you get the model MityVac 7300), car engine running to bring the engine close to operating temperature. I think it took around 10-15 minutes for engine to sort of warm up. The Evacuator came with three tubes; I used the thinnest as it was the only one that was easy to insert in the dip stick hole. I put the Evacuator on a chair next to the car since I chose not extend the tube (I did not have a suitable tube extention anyway). Engine warm and now off, air compressor running, Evacuator tube in dipstick hole; I think it took perhaps twenty/twenty five minutes to drain the entire 9 quarts of oil into the Evacuator. Then removed oil filter cap (watch out for an o-ring on the end of the cap and a much larger o-ring on the main threads), removed and discarded oil filter, removed and discarded two o-rings from oil filter cap; used the same Evacuator tube to drain what oil that was left in the oil filter cavity. Completely cleaned oil filter cavity and oil filter cap with clean cotton rags; no solvent used. Installed new o-rings on oil filter cap (o-rings come with each oil filter), inserted new oil filter, tightened oil filter cap to what I think was 25NM. Poured exactly 9 quarts of 10-40 Mobile 1 M ESP via oil filler and voila. Job done. Poured 9 quarts of used oil from Evacuator to the 9 empty oil containers ready to take to oil disposal.

I don' think I missed any steps.

Cheers

vettdvr

I usually put a light film of oil on o rings before installing to help them seat.

Our mercedes doesn't have a dip stick,, at least one I can find so I have to pull the plug vs. use the Mitimite.

The Mobile 1 0w40 spec # 229.51 is good for the full 13000 miles.
DON'T USE 10w30 or 5w30, they don't meet the spec.

If you check http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

you will find that changing the oil in the 3000 to 5000 range might cause more wear than running the full FSS recommendation.

I service our E500 when the FSS states 2000 miles to service which gives me about 11000+ miles on the last service.


Contrags on first change at least you know how easy it is. Did you reset the FSS computer?

pinebaron

I cannot understand how a more frequent oil change can increase wear and tear; it is a lubricant after all.

I have to reset the FSS; in fact I had it figured out when I did not need it, now I am not able to duplicate the function; I need to search this forum for help.

BudC

Mercedes and BMW now recommend changing oil at the one year mark or 10,000 miles, whichever comes first. So far as I know, there isn't an oil company that will claim their engine oils should be changed at longer intervals than one year. Even the ones that claim you can go 25,000 miles between changes still have the caveat of limiting it to "or one year, which ever comes first".

I don't buy the idea that more frequent changes are bad. I've been changing oil in my 16 year old 300E at 6 months or 5K, whichever comes first and I've never in 16 years had to add a drop of oil.

Oil is cheap and it's the lifeblood of an engine.

pinebaron

And my reasoning is that I drive a lot of daily miles;more miles in shorter timespan. I will be changing oil every 5-6 weeks (5000 miles) if I continue to keep the same job.

jimbo1mcm

You might consider buying a small torque wrench and not guess at the nm setting. I hope you start the engine and check the oil filter for leaks prior to closing the hood.

pinebaron

This is a temporary situation. I do have a torque wrench but was not able to get the 14 flute 84 mm filter cap wrench required for the Bluetec V6; I used a clamp type wrench. I am looking for the correct filter cap wrench. Apparently the previous year or model has 74 mm that is readily available. I asked the MB dealer and he said they do not sell it; I will have to search for one.

I started the engine and checked the oil filter for leaks etc. As I explained in a previus post, I drive a long way to the office and vehicle maintenance gets priority over my body maintenance (my wife disagrees, and many others would too).

harkgar

I have been changing oil with an independant mechanic on my 2006 E320 CDI until the service light came on (my mechanic did reset my computer after he performed the oil change). The service light soon came on and I took the car to a MB dealer.

The MB service guy told me if I do not have an extra oil change done by him he will not reset my computer after the service so I agreed. The car is under warranty.

Anyone with a similar experience?

harkgar

It is an aluminum cup which fits snuggly on the black hard plastic oil filter cover and will not "run" like one size fits all wrenches. If you intend to keep your Bluetec for a while buy one.

pinebaron

Absolutely: where do I get one? I am not one to cut corners; I need to locate a source where I can order one. When I find a source, I will also order a new oil filter cover so I don't have to see the marks I made.

I will keep this car for three years and pass this along to my son before I get the next model.

pinebaron

I managed to reset the FSS: I must give credit to the person who gave these instructions out on this forum: fgwinn
0) The display should read outside temperature
1) Turn ignition switch to position one.
2) Press reset button on dashboard three times.
3) Voltage will display on dash screen.
4) Press down arrow key on steering wheel.
5) Use +/- and page up down buttons to navigate the menu until you find the confirmation selection.
6) Start the engine and you should see a message about reading the data.

If you succeed at resetting the FSS counter the next service should be in 10000 miles (for Bluetec 2007).
If you just change the oil and don't do the other services, you can choose to confirm only that service. (I am not sure if this works OK in my car but you need to try this out; I was able to cancel a service; I am new to this as well)

Diesel Benz

I got the tool when I was born, or actually it grew up with me

If you have a good grip, you are able to turn it off an back by hand. It would be tight but really should not be tightened with excessive force. A weak arm or hand would not be good enough.

mdonato346

Please please...

Can someone show me picture of oil pan drain plug on 2007 e320 bluetec?

dave2001auto

229.51 and 229.52 oils are not cheap @ $8 per liter. Consumer report has a report on excessive wear from too freq oil changes. It is likely caused by the initial oil starvation after draining and filter change.