hadam

Dear Ohlord, your recommended CAN OBD II (Item #94169) from Harbor Freight does work on my 2001 E-430.

I was getting "LINKING ERROR". But then I went and drove my car for about a mile and brought back and it work fine.

I don't drive 2001 W210 too much, it was sitting in my garage for 3 weeks.

On my 1997 E-420, it work fine.

Ohlord please accept my apology, CAN OBD II (Item #94169) from Harbor Freight works on 1997 and 2001 W210, confirmed.

I will go and buy one more to keep one in my each W210.

Thanks again for your continues support to Forum.

ohlord

on all obd2 cars built 1996 and later,if you get the link error,it may not be plugged fully in,get down low under the dash and line it up exactly at the angle the port is,use a flash light to make sure you have a good view.Key off plug it firmly into the port,when the unit comes on,then turn the key to the 2 position,display on engine not running and hit the enter button,if you get the link error again hit rescan after turning off the key and wiggleing the plug and then go to pos 2 and run the scan again.you are either not getting it plugged in fully or your port is loose and you cant get it in fully or the port is bad(bent etc.)it has to be one of the above,cuz the unit works in brand new cars.
keep trying you will get it to work.
I have also had instances where I got the link error and just pushed it in firmer or pulled it out lined it up and ran it again.
good luck
ohlord

hadam

Ohlord, my apology, I was wrong, CAN OBD II work on my both W210.

First it only worked on 1997 E-420, but not on 2001 E-430. The reason because I did not drive E-430 for 3 weeks sitting in my garage.

Once I drove it, OBD II scanner work fine.

Very nice little handy tool. I rather pay $39 for it then go to Stealer or even Indy shop to rob me for diagnostics at least $60 to $100.

I will go and buy one more, so I can have one in each of my E-Class.

I love W210, but I hate MB quality. Some time CEL drive you crazy.

Thanks again for all your contribution to the Forum.

ohlord

really need one,if a cel comes on you can drive it home and check it there.
glad it worked,did you have any codes active or pending?
ohlord

hadam

No, I did not have any codes. I checked both W210 all good.

I even try on my 2000 Toyota Sienna and CAN OBD II worked great.

I do driving along the coast from central coast to Los Angeles, it is good to have one in each car, at least you can get your diagnostic Codes right away. Driving back home 200 miles and having CEL on kind of not a good thing.

Ohlord, do you know the part number and where I can get MAF (MAD) CRC cleaner? I got Pepboys, AutoZone, Kragon, Neppa and Grand auto parts store in area.

Also Do you know how to remove MAF from 1997 E-420 engine 119? Any link to DIY for engine 119 for 1997 E-420 will be appreciated.

ohlord

however no need to clean it unless you get the cel light with the telltale obd2 codes p0170 and p0173,they usually indicate the maf is faulty.Sometimes the cleaner works sometimes not,worth a try.
In august we drove up the coast all the way to s.f. and then inland to north and back to seattle,that central coast ride is beautiful

"GOT CODES?"

Dema

WHat about this scanner? Found at Amazon, it seems a little cheaper for California residents.

ohlord

but worth less,not worthless but worth less.You get it
The centec unit has all those capabilities,and more.It reads not only all the error codes,it also has a rescan function for com link errors and reads vins and has the I/M readiness function.
When you clear a cel or read a pending code stored in the history of the scanner and then you erase it,or you happen to do the common cure to clear a code or cel(the incorrect way)by unhooking the battery,you set the non constantly monitored sensors to the I/M not ready state.Your cats will show not ready,your o2 sensors not ready,and on down the line.If you have a scanner like the hb unit you can read the I/M status and if you cleared the light prior to emissions testing you will know if you are ready to take the test.New cars can only have 1 not ready,they are covered under the emissions warranty,so its just a hassle trip to the dealer to get it fixed for free,older cars like ours can have 2 not ready,but when you clear the codes the I/M status all go not ready and that is like 6 values.The state won't even let you take the test that day or until you perform enough drive cycles to set the I/M to ready.
For $2.51 get the reader with the I/M status and know you are ready and save the trip,and the waiting on line and the waste of time that occurs when they say sorry come back when it is ready,which you would have known if you had spent the $2.51!So lets say you get the code reader after you tried to take the test and they said go perform several drive cycles.And some how you discover how to do them and how many it takes(top secret)the stealer doesn't want you to know how because they want to charge you to do it on there "very expensive star diagnostic machine"
So you find out how and when done you read the scan and it says ready on the i/m and you go take and pass the test.
Long story short spend the $2.51
And since someone is asking themselves what the heck a drive cycle is and how many do I need to do
the following “universal” drive cycle can be used as a guide to assist with re-setting monitors when a vehicle specific drive cycle cannot be located. This generic OBDII drive cycle begins with a cold start (coolant temperature below 122 degrees F and the coolant and air temperature sensors within 11 degrees of one another). This condition can be achieved by allowing the vehicle to “sit” overnight, and then by beginning the drive cycle the next day. Most drive cycles will be difficult to follow exactly under normal driving conditions, so the driver should exercise caution, road safety, and courtesy to others.
* Start the engine. Idle the engine in drive for two and a half minutes with the A/C and rear defroster on.
* Turn the A/C and rear defrost off, and accelerate to 55 mph at half throttle.
* Hold at a steady speed of 55 mph for three minutes.
* Decelerate (coast down) to 20 mph without braking or depressing the clutch.
* Accelerate back to 55 to 60 mph at ¾ throttle.
* Hold at a steady speed of 55 to 60 mph for five minutes.
* Decelerate (coast down) to a stop without braking.

Easy to do,fun,and if you are out of warranty,a hell of a lot cheaper than the trip to those rip off artists at the dealer.
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
You see how the government made it's concessions to the dealerships when you look at how the obd2 I/M status gets reset,they made it such a convoluted process only a genius could figure it out,or you just have to trust that driving around for hundreds of miles or several weeks is going to reset the system,they figured you would just go and be charged up the yin yang for the dealer to do it.
Imagine -idle in drive with the a/c on and the rear window defroster on for 2.5 minutes-How many times have you done that?
ohlord
"GOT CODES?"
and please if you look at the amazon link above don't fall prey to their people also bought these items and spend 96 bucks for the paper back book of obd2 codes,they must rip some poor fool off but it's not going to be any of you guys and gals..........post the code here ,search the posts I put a link to all the mercedes codes,or google mercedes obd2 codes.96 bucks!my a*s !!!!!!!

hadam

Buy the one CAN OBD II (Item #94169) from Harbor Freight. Ohlord is right it reads all tha IM's.

Buying for little less from Amazon does not make sense. CAN OBD II (Item #94169) from Harbor Freight Tools work also on my Toyoto.

PS. Toyota is Toyota, I don't mean to compare it to MB. The quality of Jap's are going down due to cost cutting. 2000 Toyota Sienna, Window regulator Motor (Made in China) front broke, rear hatch door handle broken (All metal except the latch which is plastic, Toyota dealer want $350 DIY for $64 material and 1 hours), Radio head unit went south. I bought extended warranty up to 100K miles, otherwise I probably paying Toyota Stealer mocho $$$.
Quality is going down on Toyota's and dealer hourly rate going up to $120/hr for some of the services. So don't feel bad about MB dealers, Jap's dealer also robbing now.

ohlord

the germans and the japanese,but sometimes with the hidden fees and poor quality issues i think there is a little revenge motive for the A kickin in WW2.

Dema

Thank you for very technical explanation, indeed Item #94169 looks much more valuable than actual price difference ($20 in my case because shipping and tax). I plan to use it for clearing check engine light in my Chrysler (it is MB now anyway).

ohlord

40 harbor freights in ca. should be one near you..Post the code when you get it .you need to fix the problem in the Chrysler. not just clear the code

fju2112

there are three to choose from under $40 at this link...why is one better than the other?

http://search.harborfreight.com/cpis...do?keyword=obd

ohlord

94169.

cragigotgame

Hmmmm. I might have to pick one of those up. Even though its been about 2 years since somthing has gone wrong with the W210

Dema

Problem is in misfire. Actually I brought the car in a shop, they diagnosed and replaced sparks plug. However it didn't eliminate the problem. So they started to ask more for further digging in the problem. However I do not trust them anymore. So I hope just clear check engine before smog check.

I'll check harbor freights near by, I still have few months more before smog check due.

ohlord

the scanner or go to autozone and have them read the codes for free.Handy to have the scanner,as above you can check I/M status before you get tested.Post the code.A misfire could be caused by several things and the code or codes will aid in the solution.
ohlord
BTW I just got my latest hb sales flyer and the scanner is now 59 bucks at the store but 39 online ad still,so if you go to the store seee if they will give you the internet price.39 or 59 worth its weight in gold if it saves you one trip to the shop.
The shop replaced one plug?

Dema

Misfire happened in one cylinder only, however they replaced all of plugs and charged a lot. After further testing they found lower fuel pressure in the injector of the reported cylinder. However estimated 3 hours of labor for cleaning it and didn't guarantee result either. Sad story.

ohlord

story is you did not read the codes first and post them here.Water under the bridge now,but maybe it will serve as a lesson in the future and a lesson to others that go into a shop with no clue as to what is wrong.
Shops are notoriouus for throwing parts at a problem,they get it correct,they are your trusted mechanic and you still get reamed.Wrong and you still get reamed.
Run the injector cleaner in the gas tank,seafoam or techron.Try that and see if it works.
read those codes!!!!!!!!!!!!

hadam

I had same issue and it was ignition coil.

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w210/182337-check-engine-light-code-p0308-cylinder-8-misfire-detected.html

Ohlord, I took to Harbour Frieght the print out of web $39 and they honour the price so I got mine for $39 eventhough the price in store was $59.

ohlord

believe that way before any shop could convince you that you had12 for the v6 or 16 bad plugs for the v8 all at one time.That many misfires and a obd2 reader would be going wild with p0300 codes!If you suspect a bad coil you can always move it to a different cylinder and see if the misfire follows it.
ohlord

A guy I helped out back east did your same thing and got the reader for 39 also,looks like they would rather have a new customer.Good business practice