ps2cho

The front of my 300TE sits too high...for some reason unknown and I would like to drop the car, but is it really worth spending $230 on H&R Springs when I could just cut my own that I currently have on?

These are the wheels I am putting on (18x8.5) as soon as I get some 225/40/18 tires for the front all four have 255/55/18 right now and its too wide for the front with the 18x8.5 rim as it hits the suspension strut and I don't want to put a huge spacer otherwise it will stick out further than I want.

I was looking a long time for these as many of you may know as I posted numerous times asking for size compatibility questions Well FINALLY got them! Right price and reconditioned lip -- They look great


I hear it doesn't require any special knowledge other than being careful and making sure you cut them both evenly and correctly.

Any thoughts on that?


----

Second question is on Swaybars....Think it would be worth finding a 500E Swaybar? Does it make a large impact compared to the stock one?

Thanks

YNVDIZW124

5mm spacers with a 235/40/18 tire fits. I would cut the springs because its going to make the car bounce a lot. Also you are going to have to remove the rear hydraulic shocks to lower it how you want it.

ps2cho

Is turning circle still 100% with 235/40 or does it rub?

greasybenz

Problem is that your stock strut is to tall for a lower spring whether you cut the OEM spring or go for H&R.

So if you dont want to ride on bottomed out struts id suggest you buy some bilstein sports and go with H&R springs.

I was lucky enough for find a vintage W124 AMG suspension kit which came with lower+stiffer springs and bilstein sport shocks.


The 500E sway bars make all the difference, lower shocks and struts dont do much but lower the center of gravity. There is still far to much body roll when compared to my C32 AMG which has stiffer sway bars.

As for your wheel choice, i cant for the love of me get 18" rims to fit on the front of my lowered W124 and I had 225/35/18 tires much lower profile then the tires you want to use. I currently have 16" CLK wheels and even with its 205 width it rubs the freakin hell out of the lip under hard cornering chewing up the tread.

This was when the suspension was first installed, now that its settled in the front end sits lower and rubs the tires.



But it does handle better then my C32, no understeer!

rayhennig

Mercedes and cutting springs is like foie gras and ketchup. The two simply don't mix.

Or perhaps what I mean is that cutting springs on a Mercedes sounds dangerous to me. They are heavy cars and the springs are designed for that weight. If you modify the spings by removing the part by which it's designed to be attached, you have only yourself to blame.

To lower the front only, I think the Bilstein H&R souds good. You may even be able to lower the back slightly by adjusting the ride height compensator.

Good luck to you.

RayH

rooney2006

I'm riding on vogtland springs in the back and cut stock springs in the front with bilstein sports all around, and aside from the occasional unusual steering sensation around a sharp corner, I like the ride just fine. It's so much better than stock, and if that's a real option for you, I would recommend it without any hesitation. I'd find somebody that could do it professionally though, with the springs properly and precisely cut.

Quicksilver500

Don't cut the springs, there are lots of threads on this, read them and decide. YES it is worth 230 for H and R springs. MB springs are progressive, if you don't know what the means, and what it means when you cut them then you shouldn't do it. It messes with the stability of the car at speed. They didn't spend millions of deutsche marks developing springs for this car just to be cut. If you go order them from the dealer they have to take into account every single option on the car because the weight is different. It's worth the $230...

-Mike

YNVDIZW124

If you do cut them, use a air grinder and cut them in a tub with water. Don't heat the spring up because it'll make it weak and bouncy.

STLe320

+1
Or if you have access to a water saw...My dad equipped a tile saw with the right blade and it was fine on his triumph tr6

viperuk1

what would be the best way to lower a CE?? not to expensive, would i just be able to buy some springs from ebay for like £90 an get them fitted or is there more to it??

RBYCC

The only reason to cut a spring is if an aftermarket perfomance spring is not available.

AMG used to cut springs in the late seventies and early eighties before they developed their own progressively wound spring set.

Handling at speed is not optimum with a cut spring.

With all the labor involved to remove and install your springs plus the time and unknown results in cutting your original springs, it's worth the added cost of installing new.

The wild card in cutting springs is that you don't know the condition of each of the springs you are cutting.
Remember they are progressively wound and you might be cutting off the only part that still is up to original spec.

When AMG did it they started with new springs, whereas you are starting with a used weakened unit...

RBYCC

Contrary to what many believe the longer travel strut does not "bottom out".
The lowest point of travel is the same when the struts are compressed.
It's the upper length of travel which is limited by the upper stop that is the difference between most stock and sport struts/shocks.

Valving is another issue and consideration.

If you are slamming your car (2"+) then the equal of a Bilstein Sport must be used, but only because too much extension may cause the spring to move off it's pad.

Less drop and street use and the application of a Bilstein HD or equal will give same performance as a Sport ( identical valving but longer travel ) and prevent the suspension from banging against the stops on rough surfaces.

Heavier sways such as the Sportline will make a major difference in cornering as it lessens body roll

RBYCC

Just buy a set of performance springs and have them installed as you have stated.

The type and make of spring will determine how much drop you will get.
Suggest retaining the stock spring pads as they were designed exactly for your particular car.

If you need struts/shocks now is the time to do it as you may save a bit on labor as the car is up in the air for spring removal and installation.

1988 300CE H&R Sport Springs ( about 1.75" drop ) Bilstein HD's and Merc Sportline Swaybars front and rear, 18x8 ET35 rims. Flat cornering, great weight transfer and handles the power.

viperuk1

cheers may have to get that done i wasnt sure if new shocks or what ever were needed.

ascates

I just got Bilstein Hd's & H&r's installed, but I'm thinking of removing the spring cap up front because its still 1-1.5 inch gap up front & higher than the rear. Also where would I get Swaybars? I still have noticeable sway.

Here are the before & after pics & also a photo showing the gap still up front.

viperuk1

looks good. i when i put my 18s on my ce a mate asked if i had highered my car!lol

especially when you turn the wheel.

rayhennig

As you say, why cut springs, they're pretty cheapy anyway? An MB is a well engineered car and I don't believe the aftermarket cowboys or kitchen table bodgers can do better. Specialists & OEMs like H&R, Eibach, Sachs and Bilstein can be relied upon to provide correctly specified parts. There may be others.

I suppose if you're a highly qualified metallurgist, you might be able to treat and test springs and arrive at a good result. Why bother, it'd be cheaper to buy from MB???

Just my 2 cents' worth.

RayH

RBYCC

When did you have the install done?

Drive it for a while and see if it drops a bit more.

Mercedes still has swaybars available.

ohlord

springs,coil or coil and a half.Increases spring rate about 10% which is on par with what you get from aftermarket units.
Just make sure plenty of cooling fluid and cut them both or all after careful measurements.

ZedStyle

i have cut springs up front, but they were brand new when cut. i've switched back and forth between the vogtlands and can't feel any performance difference (front only, rears are still vogtland).
thing is, the vogtlands sitting next to the cut springs are exactly the same height, but when installed, the vogtlands drop the car at least an inch more than the cut springs, which leads me to believe the cut springs are 'firmer', if that makes sense.
i have no idea what would happen with cutting used springs, but mbenzman used new ones for my car, and i have zero complaints.

$0.02

Bigpete123

I can respect the desire to save money. But $230 really isn't that much money in the long run. Just save up for the springs.

The majority of the cost of lowering your car is labor for installation (if you dont do it yourself of course), cost of new shocks and struts, and cost of alignment. The springs really are the cheapest part, so I say just save up and you won't have to worry about this "should I cut my springs" question.

ascates

I got it done last weekend. I measured the gap & I still have 2.5 inches between the tire & fender, about the length the stock key.

I dont think it will settle enough to my liking.