W123230e1984

Hi everyone. I'm new to the board and just bought this car a few weeks ago. It is a 1984 230e W123 body style Euro car. Has the 4cyl engine and automatic transmission. Ok, so I was getting on the freeway and I kicked down the gas pedal to merge and the car never went back into Overdrive. I have since that point got the car to get to overdrive but you have to be at Wide Open Throttle til about 65-70mph. All other gears are taking way to long to shift as well. The only thing I have done since is replace the kick down button behind the gas pedal. I replaced with two other used buttons. No difference in shift pattern.The car starts out in 1st gear now. I was told these cars start out in 2nd gear, correct me if im wrong.

I know on my 454 chevy truck when it takes too long to shift, probably a bad modulator on the tranny or the line has a leak. This is acting the same way. Can anyone help? I really like the car and want to keep her. I feel like im abusing it the past two days taking it out on test drives around the block. Engine has to rev too much. Thanks guys!

Clint

300Dman

Unless the transmission has been serviced recently that is the first place to start.

unlike a lot of American cars that have a Transmission filter that is just a screen; on my 84 300d there is actually a paper filter element inside of the filter.

Do you know what model number your transmission is? I do not know if Mercedes always marks transmissions on the same side or not but on mine it is marked on the passanger side (US models) and stamped into it. It could have something like 722.315 stamped on it. That is the model number on mine (hard to see due to the location of the exhaust pipe).

Also because it was not sold here my Factory Service Manual CD does not show an 84 230e.

300Dman

If your transmission modulator uses Vacuum or you have any Vacuum lines going to the transmission I would make sure it was not plugged; and also look for possible areas where it could leak.

W123230e1984

Transmission 722401 02 110836

This is what is told to me when I do a complete search on the car. Let me know if you know what filter I would need? I would assume a filter from an 86 190e? I believe they somewhat have the same engine/tranny? Thanks

Clint

300Dman

Apparently the info on the 1986 trans is true.
The info in the pic below is from www.autohausaz.com

I do not know what the shipping would be for 1 filter. However, if you order over $50 UPS ground shipping is free.

If changing the filter does not help I am not sure what the problem is. It could be perhaps that Kick Down Valve in the Trans stuck or malfunctioned and is not releasing; and, some aspects of your problem could be a B2 Piston Problem (depending on whos trouble shooting chart your read).

I have been a Mercedes owner for 2 years now and it is a Diesel. I am not sure on a Gas Engined Car how the Vacuum to the transmission is managed.
On the Diesel a Vacuum Pump creates the Vacuum. A valve on top of the Fuel Injection Pump controls the Vacuum to the Transmission Modulator (this relates to how harsh the shifts are; low vacuum=harsh shifts).
This deals with a Diesel but your trans is similar. But, I do not know if you have a Bowden Cable. From my notes:
TRANSMISSION STUFF Bodwen cable
Vacuum controls only the quality of shift transition.
The bowden cable on top of the valve cover controls shift timing.
Neither can cause a delay in engagement.
A stuck kick down switch can caused delayed shifts.
(I said valve but the switch must actuate something in the transmission.)

That is about all I can help with.

W123230e1984

Well, I went outside today and disconnected the kickdown cable to the passenger side of transmission..I think this is the bowden cable you speak of. Anyhow, I disconnected it from the linkage and the car shifts better than it ever has. I have a light foot and I don't speed in cars/trucks (I have a motorcycle for that) so now im wondering if I will ruin the transmission this way. I would obviously not be smart to floor the gas pedal when passing people in over drive but if im smart about it, I think I may be fine..what do you think?

I think I need to look for another cable in the wrecking yard. The cable that is on there was working fine when I first got the car but it is pretty tight. There isn't much slack in the cable coming from transmission to linkage. I think I may need to look at a few mercedes at the junk yard and get an idea about whats going on. Maybe replace it soon, just maybe not a top priority this week or maybe next. I wouldn't mind the car being correct, thats for sure. Atleast its shifting tho! I'm not starting out in 1st gear anymore, thank god!

Thanks for your help all this way. If you have anymore thoughts, feel free!

Clint

300Dman

I am afraid I do not know any more concerning the transmision. But, apperently you have found the source.
I had mostly been repeating stuff I have read on other forums. And, concerning transmissions on Diesels at that.

victorbrad

recently got myself a 1963 chevy truck and in that also can see some transmission problems although of a different kind than my later model trucks.

NCXCbeckwith

I have owned a 1979 240D for about a year and a half and just now started having this EXACT problem. looked under the hood, saw that the vacuum line had become loose and disconnected. after reconnecting and tying the hose back on with a piece of string, the car worked fine. check your vacuum lines before toy do anything else, just to avoid paying any extra money.

Mercedes 240D: the only car that's transmission problems can be fixed with a 6" piece of string.

82_300D_TURBO

Right now the engine turns but doesn't crank, I am waiting on a used working IP to put in I hope that gets it running. BUT: I can have the tranny IN GEAR and crank over the engine but the car doesn't roll?? Does the tranny kick in after the engine creates a vaccum?? Is that why it doesn't roll while cranking in gear??
And why would it crank while in gear? Something has to be bypassed obviously. BUT, my concern as of right now is that the tranny is working or not... I have no clue how the MB's work yet is why I'm asking... I hope someone has some good news for me..

MC-Professor

I know this is an old post, but instead of getting a new(er) cable, it's easier to clean the ones you have. To do so;
1-remove the cable from the car
2- soak in Carb or break cleaner ( time depends on how dirty the cable is)
3- Periodically push/pull the cable through the casing several times, then re-soak till cable moves freely
4- lubricate, I use motorcycle Chain Wax, but cable-lube works too (just doesn't stay as long) A cable lube kit can be purchased from most any motorcycle shop.

MC-Professor