mbclassics

I cleared the codes with a typical hand held scanner but the trans is still in limp mode. Is there another "trick" to doing it? Or just need a Star Diagnostics? Thinking maybe the car just had a hick up and would be fine if I cleared it. If not then I would get into the valve body. My codes were P0720 output speed sensor and P0500 vehicle speed sensor. 2000E320

Thanks

RichardM98

The purpose of the "Limp Home" mode is the protect the transmission from further damage. You can not clear transmission codes with a OBD II scanner. If it was a 'hiccup' it would clear itself. See dealer or fully equipped indie.

mbclassics

I kinda knew that. I just wanted to reset and see if it came back. Read on hear that some reset and never had the problem again. Just trying to narrow down the cause.

alpinestar_k

for what it's worth I experienced same issue on old 00E320 - tried batt reset and scanner reset - no luck. Speed sensor was my culprit - best of luck

wifiremed

I think your going to have to have it re-set by someone with the STAR system... I just had this same problem... I was having problems with the trans going into the soft limp mode where it stays in the last gear it was in until you shut the car off and restart. (Classic Conductor Plate Failure...) I out smarted myself by trying a coasting re-start. That was the wrong thing to do because it locked me into hard limp mode... All I had was 1st gear & reverse. I changed the conductor plate and still had the problem. I had to have the car towed to a local private repair shop that has the STAR system. $75.00 later the code was out and everything was back in order. So long story short, once your in the hard limp mode you need the STAR system to reset that code. Good luck and check with a local private shop that will save you money over the dealer.

wifiremed

I re-read your original post, sounds like you need to replace the conductor plate if you haven't done so already. Others have had good luck and as soon as the plate was replaced the code cleared.

The way you can tell the difference between a hard limp mode and a soft is by the way the car shifts. In the hard mode it really clunks and hammers into gear. It feels like the trans is tearing itself apart. In the soft mode it just stays stuck in the last known gear.

What's happening as I understand it is that the two speed sensors in the trans compare the speed of the input shat to the output shaft to determine what gear the car is in and if it agrees with the commanded gear from the ECM. If the ECM can't get data from either of the speed sensors in the conductor plate it goes into limp mode. This is why sometimes just replacing the conductor plate fixes the problem unless a hard code has been set because then the ECM gets the data it needs to determine the gear setting and it goes on it's marry way. If the hard code is set though and it's in hard limp it won't come out until the code is cleared by the STAR system... Hope this helps!

fifthndice

I own a 2003 E320 with 73000 miles on it. It is in what appears to be limp home mode. I had it towed to my local MB dealer and they said I need a new transmission. Car has been serviced properly and no problems up to this point. Car has been sitting for one month. Attempted to move it recently and it went into gear fine with no problems. Afraid to take it on the road as it may go into limp home mode again. From reading other post it appears that may be the car needs a new conductor plate??? Very car illiterate so any help is greatly welcomed.

Plutoe

If the car were mine, I would ask the dealer to give me the diagnostic print out for the transmission scan.

With that data I would know what was wrong with the tranny and then plan a course of action. Good Luck

Musikmann

That dealer is evidently only a parts changer and greedy to boot. They stand to make much more by replacing it than opening it up and replacing necessary parts. I'll bet money that it is repairable and might be something quite simple. A lot of people have replaced conductor plates but there are a few other things that might be wrong. At your tender mileage I doubt that it's anything too serious. From what I remember reading, most people with serious problems are at 100,000 miles and beyond.

As advised get the print out (you paid for the diagnosis didn't you?) and post the codes here.

fifthndice

I contacted my local dealer to which I towed my E320 for the diagnostic printout. There were no codes listed, only what I told the service person over the phone. I have phoned the dealer to request the codes for this diagnostic evaluation for which I paid. I'm waiting for their reply.

I have one other question for you and that is what does STAR stand for?

Plutoe

Star is very old terminology for the MB diagnostic system.

The current terminology is DAS Xentry, DAS is is the diagnostic portion and Xentry is the control unit programming portion of the software. However the term Star has become common just like Xerox for copying.

My question to you is "what tools did the dealer use to make the determination that the tranny was junk.

If they used DAS, you can print out the diagnostic report, they are not easy to read, but it's better that the ole blowhards response!! Good Luck

NJProTech

This is correct. Especially the fact that a transmission only gets replaced for a specific or group of specific reasons. Most shops/dealers don't want to risk a rebuild. It's risky in some cases and can be expensive. Sometimes a rebuilt is just better but a simple trans fix could be it all it needs. Adaptation values tell a lot too

CoolBreez

yesterday my car started slipping in third and forth gear then totally lost them(engine would just reve)but first and second are fine. i also smelled some tranny fluid smoke. I checked the fluid, its dark red and smells a burnt, and was more than a pint over.
i got it home and this morning i drove it and the car does not even attempt third gear it will stay in second. acts like there is no third. i was thinking a solenoid problem but i'm not sure. i do a lot of work on my own. but it this time my body controle module is not working so i cant get my codes to know where to start.

Plutoe

Your transmission is toast----FYI solenoids don't burn fluid clutches do---Time to drive over to Moe Greens

perennial

i had a similar situation with my transmission going tio limp mode. Worst choice i made was purchasing the icarsoft mb v1 scanner tool.. Thing is garbage.. Before you try anything else I suggest lifting the carpet on the passenger side firewall under the dash. There Will be a plate. Take a 10 mm socket remove that plate. Remove the TCM by disconnecting the two connectors . then remove the TCM from the plate
With two flat heads separate the casing and remove the board. Spray the board with MAF CLEANER pour an electronics cleaner. Already the connectors themselves reinstall and out should work. It saved me a bunch of cash. Hope it works for someone else.. So simple.. Good luck..
oh be sure to clear the codes with any obd scanner and you'll be set.

kajtek1

After 7 years I doubt OP still has the car.

Vinchenzo

Hi, Just wondering was it a wheel speed sensor?? or did you replace the Conductor Plate sensors?

Cheers

scotterikson

7 year old thread, but wheel speed sensor would give abs/bas errors. Change conductor plate, clear codes with a proper scanner via the round plug under the hood (NOT the obd port inside the car) I've used the cheap conductor plates from Amazon with good results. If you're changing the connector plug, go with OEM, had bad results with the knockoff versions of that

Matt@

Hi there, this is a very useful post and dialogue in regards to limp mode for W210. Many thanks everyone.

I have a W210 and keep like brand new and share the limp's story recently underneath:

2 months ago, when I started the engine, "display defective"...on dashboard, then "ABS/ESP/BAC" error, Gear P cannot move, screw driver to put into the hole to release the lock. P then go to D, driven to home in 10 mins, it's challenging, the vehicle keep shouting me "visit workshop", bip bip bip.....

I don't have MB Star (but recently keep searching if I should buy one, Old model need something "Com Port" connection, HHT-WIN interface, some experienced user told me go for C3, don't buy C4, C5, C6...., I read Aliexpress, eBay, .... Panasonic CF-19 toughbook, Dell C530, Multiplexer C4 support wifi etc.), after all, very likely, I will go for C3 running Windows XP, Panasonic Tough book. Beforehand, I was almost blamed by other users like.....

"Should I go for some iCarsoft Diagnostic Scanner?" Which one is good for this 38-pin connector under the hood model? "There're 1.0, 2.0, 3.0 CR-Max from iCarsoft" Spend some time to understand, not to take risk in the end. In particular I read the above past post, 1.0 is totally garbage (I ponder if buy CR-MAX, expensive !!). Alright, MB Star should be the choice, although I have zero experience to use this stuff.

Another expert told me, “Make sure check the wheel (ABS) sensors", I check the price at eBay, not expensive. Watching some Youtube videos, not hard to replace, just DIY plug-n-play job. I can do the all replacement for a 20 years old baby.

Back to the car, I first replaced "(1) washer fluid level sensor" which is a series sum of resistance with coolant level sensor, any incorrect value can go for "Display Defective", alright I go for 10-min DIY for (1), the warning is gone.
Subsequently, I checked the past record, this baby has not been changed ATF since 2016. I should go for a change, last time experienced limp mode too. My mechanic helped for conductor plate and plug replacement. I did the same again but DIY. After all, it still limp mode. (2)
Prior to (2), I opened the hood and checked the TCM, found oil at Plug, then used electronic cleaner to remove all. Smell no burnt, assume the TCM is good instead.

I posted the above somewhere (non W210) thread, and would like to ask which tool is the best? comment -

- Conductor Plate has been changed to new design, it should not have any issue even 6 years later. Yes, I checked the plate is OEM and looked good, but oil leak at 13-pin connector. Since I bought the full sets of (AFT oil, new conductor plate N Plug, gasket). I don't want to do this DIY job twice and just go for all replacement.
- Now, the car is still in limp mode. While starting engine (turn 1,2, start), I felt like it lags for 1/8 second between 2 & start. No idea if the TCM has no communication to the 13-pin connector plug. Or fault codes have yet been removed, or the wheel speed sensors caused this "lag".
- After the 'lag", the car start normally with "No malfunction", Foot on Brake, Pull P to R (Clunk Sound), then N, then D (Clunk Sound). I ain't drive but believe it can move.
- Then I Push D to N (ok), N to R(cannot move, lock, I don't use screw driver and believe if used, it can move but error will pop on the dash), switch off the engine at N, then it can move N to P.
- Forget to mentioned “BAC/ESP/ABS”, I replaced the brake light sensor already (DIY job for 1/2 hour). Gut feeling, the old sensor is good since it still has this error (when I used another scanner Foxwell NT650 elite connecting to 38-pin adapter under the hood, it cannot detect TCM), I read this error pop-up again on dash, but no error found at Foxwell. Else situation, look no such malfunction error.
Some experienced users are annoyed to my articulation, they believed I should go for MB Star fully diagnosis.
YEP, I will do it and buy 1 set toughbook C3 running Windows XP.

This thread, again confirmed me, I should buy MB Star, take full diagnosis, look up any issues on Wheel Speed Sensors (also consider to buy a set of Mud Flaps while doing this replacement too, but extremely difficult to find at eBay/Amazon).




Any comment, reminder, "Scold me" are welcome. Thanks.

Plutoe

Good choice and you will love the results
FYI your C3 mux will diagnose all cars up to 2014 after that you will need a C4 mux,but MB does not offer off line programming for module changes,so be very careful on what you read and hear from wana be mechanics

Matt@

Hi Pluteo, I check aliexpress, that look like C6 (see the link) is the latest and provide 38-pin connector cable, this means it can use for W210 diagnosis too? I just ponder if I buy the latest model, it won't support b/c no "HHT-WIN" or something.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005004478611878.html
My Uncle has a 2014 W212 E350, if fit for purpose for these 2 vehicles, can you suggest which MB Star I should go for?
MB Star C3, I read this https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4001231111929.html
You said "MB does not offer off line programming for module changes", can you further elborate what is the impact to my situation? Being a zero-experience user, I need to be super carefully for each step to handle the issues.
I also read there're something call "hard code" or "soft code" to the modules, Since there's a short-time lag from key 2,3(start engine), I am a bit concern if the TCM is not detected or this "lag" is apparently tell you it is in limp mode. MB Star should write/clear the codes directly into TCM, is that correct? Appreciate if you can teach me more, thank you.

Plutoe

I regret to advise that you are way behind on the diagnostic tool learning curve and regardless of model mux or DAS Xentry or XDOS diagnostic software version you purchase, it will take months for you to understand the system
One thing we know is that the HHT(HandHeldTester) software is used to diagnose all MB that have the 38pin connector, on 211 and onward diagnostics are done via the OBD port and using DAS diagnostic software which incorporated the HHT software so we can use the same diagnostic software to diagnose the older 210 cars. Then as the later models became more electronic MB designed Xentry which included HHT and DAS and is called DAS Xentry and today the diagnostic software is XDOS
Regarding Muxes, I use a C3 system for older cars and a C4 for all other cars and have two different laptops with two different diagnostic software systems
If you have to replace a control module you either buy a blank from MB and then add the software,however on cars before 2018 MB would publish CD's with all the applicable software to do off line programming. Today everything has to be done with an online license nothing is published for online programming.
If you purchase a used control module you first have to virginize the module before you can use an offline program disc to program or flash the module with the correct software, that you cant do with any MB software it takes special equipment to erase the old software
MB diagnostic software comes out every quarter and designated as 3 6 9 12 before the year so 03-2015 is the march release of year 2015 bla bla bla
I stand corrected but after version 06-2014 the C3 mux was discontinued and only C4 muxes will function onwards
I have no experience with C6 muxes and cant offer advice
If I were you I would purchase a C3 mux with a DASXentry version of 03 or 06-2014 software and make sure the system comes with the applicable off line programming disc
The above is all I am going to say on the subject as I dont run a diagnostic software school for wanabes

Matt@

Hi Plutoe, can't wait to express thank you. Appreciate for your comprehensive reply and experience sharing. You're magnificent to transfer MB Star's history to me, Brilliant!

These few days, I keep reading the threads - see if I can help out the car which I started for an hour yesterday and found no malfunction popping out at dashboard. As such, well-known it's still in Limp Mode.
I found from another thread that - some W210 users got to use iCarsoft v1.0 with its dedicated 38-pin connector. They all confirmed it work to remove fault codes after replacing conductor plate and subsequently drive the car normally. I check the comment at Amazon that most are happy users for W210 and therefore made an order for trial. If my car has the similar issues, it should be able to resume normal. I ponder this scan tool is small and handy (unlike my Foxwell NT520Elite, no use for this car, big cover box), I can store at Trunk all the time and it's not that expensive, after all.

Finger crossed, any complex issues has to go for MB Star C3 which is my next step if failed the trial. Thanks again.

Missmybenzo

Actually I reset mine with foxwell 510 scanner and 36 pin cable