Engine readiness code help
02-05-2011, 02:54 AM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Engine readiness code help
I've done a bunch of research, have taken apart the MAF to clean (https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...placement.html) and have completed generic and Mercedes specific drive cycles but still have questions. After scanning w/the OBDII, my readings are the following.
Misfire Monitor - OK
Fuel System Mon - OK
Comp Component - OK
Catalyst Mon - inc
Evap System Mon - inc
Secondary Air System Mon - inc
Oxygen Sens Mon - OK
Oxygen Sens Htr - OK
My questions obviously concern the inc (incomplete items).
1. How do I get the bold items ready? Are there particular drive cycles that correspond to each? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but to get the Cat Mon ready, I'm supposed to drive 48-54mph for 3 minutes twice. To clear the EVAP aren't I supposed to idle the car for 20 minutes twice w/10 seconds of wait time or drive time in between? I have no idea about the Sec Air System Mon. Suggestions?
2. Since the last two items are OK, does that mean that my O2 sensors are fine? Or is that not necessarily true and that the O2 sensors can still be faulty and spit out codes while still maintaining an OK status for the Oxygen Sens Mon and Oxyten Sens Htr?
3. Where is bank 1 sensor one on my w203 2005 c230 Kompressor sedan inline 4? Precat (above the cat), I assume? I understand there are only two O2 sensors on the i4 version of the w203, precat and postcat. https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...er-m271-2.html Please confirm.
4. I'm basically trying to pass smog and only have until the end of the month.
BACKGROUND INFO THAT MIGHT BE RELEVANT:
Although I don't see the codes anymore, the most recent codes that have come up resulting in a CEL is:
P0420
P0133
P0171
I don't know if it matters, but I have had my ECU flashed prior to installing a Kleemann header. The first and last codes seem to happen frequently with this particular header w/the following possible solutions:
1. Confirm spacer (how does this look like?) is on the bottom downstream O2 sensor.
2. Replace upstream O2 sensor w/Bosch part number (not 16272 b/c cable is too short: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ompressor.html) 16268 or 17161? I'm getting conflicting recommendations in my research.
3. Replace the cat all together.
Is swapping out the Kleeman header for the stock one going to fix this? Or should I change out the O2 sensors? I've read lots of people replacing their MAF's altogether w/o any luck. The codes come back. I'm trying to narrow down the exact issue before throwing parts on the car and spending a grip of money. Any help would be awesome - preferably by the end of the month before my smog is due. Thanks.
Misfire Monitor - OK
Fuel System Mon - OK
Comp Component - OK
Catalyst Mon - inc
Evap System Mon - inc
Secondary Air System Mon - inc
Oxygen Sens Mon - OK
Oxygen Sens Htr - OK
My questions obviously concern the inc (incomplete items).
1. How do I get the bold items ready? Are there particular drive cycles that correspond to each? Please correct me if I'm wrong, but to get the Cat Mon ready, I'm supposed to drive 48-54mph for 3 minutes twice. To clear the EVAP aren't I supposed to idle the car for 20 minutes twice w/10 seconds of wait time or drive time in between? I have no idea about the Sec Air System Mon. Suggestions?
2. Since the last two items are OK, does that mean that my O2 sensors are fine? Or is that not necessarily true and that the O2 sensors can still be faulty and spit out codes while still maintaining an OK status for the Oxygen Sens Mon and Oxyten Sens Htr?
3. Where is bank 1 sensor one on my w203 2005 c230 Kompressor sedan inline 4? Precat (above the cat), I assume? I understand there are only two O2 sensors on the i4 version of the w203, precat and postcat. https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...er-m271-2.html Please confirm.
4. I'm basically trying to pass smog and only have until the end of the month.
BACKGROUND INFO THAT MIGHT BE RELEVANT:
Although I don't see the codes anymore, the most recent codes that have come up resulting in a CEL is:
P0420
P0133
P0171
I don't know if it matters, but I have had my ECU flashed prior to installing a Kleemann header. The first and last codes seem to happen frequently with this particular header w/the following possible solutions:
1. Confirm spacer (how does this look like?) is on the bottom downstream O2 sensor.
2. Replace upstream O2 sensor w/Bosch part number (not 16272 b/c cable is too short: https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ompressor.html) 16268 or 17161? I'm getting conflicting recommendations in my research.
3. Replace the cat all together.
Is swapping out the Kleeman header for the stock one going to fix this? Or should I change out the O2 sensors? I've read lots of people replacing their MAF's altogether w/o any luck. The codes come back. I'm trying to narrow down the exact issue before throwing parts on the car and spending a grip of money. Any help would be awesome - preferably by the end of the month before my smog is due. Thanks.
Last edited by casper_c230; 02-05-2011 at 04:03 AM.
02-05-2011, 09:54 AM
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
You must've RESET/ERASED codes recently (with the use of OBD-II code reader). After the RESET, car has to go thru several drive cycles before the above mentioned items are ready. Just keep driving few days; unless something is wrong with those components, everything should be ready in few days.
02-07-2011, 02:39 AM
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Yes, I did. I took a 100 mile freeway ride today and my codes have successfully reached the ready status except for the EVAP SYS. Keeping fingers crossed. Just wanted to report back in case anyone cares.
Do I need to pass all sections to pass smog in California?
Do I need to pass all sections to pass smog in California?
Last edited by casper_c230; 02-07-2011 at 03:02 AM.
02-07-2011, 03:11 AM
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Ahhh, I had never thought of that. Any other things I should check? I read that some cars never get the EVAP code okayed like the 1997 Toyota Tercel and Paseo. Does ours?
02-09-2011, 04:30 PM
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Well, the P0133 code came up again today. So I guess I'll be replacing the upstream o2 sensor. Which one do I buy? I've looked around and get that it should be the heated one, but o one specifically said 2-wire or 4-wire. There's also a 5-wire one. Please take a look at my o2 questions in the original post. Thanks.
Last edited by casper_c230; 02-09-2011 at 04:40 PM.
02-09-2011, 04:49 PM
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In my experience, EVAP is the most difficult readiness monitor to set. Here's my advice- Go for a drive on the highway and set your cruise control for whatever speed you want- do some accel/decel using the cruise control stalk several times. The purge system is typically only activated under high-vaccum conditions in the intake manifold, so doing some VERY light acceleration at very small throttle openings will usually help set EVAP. FWIW, I've seen cars take as long as 1500 miles to set all readiness monitors, so it could just take some more miles driving in different load conditions.
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02-09-2011, 04:53 PM
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Well, the P0133 code came up again today. So I guess I'll be replacing the upstream o2 sensor. Which one do I buy? I've looked around and get that it should be the heated one, but o one specifically said 2-wire or 4-wire. There's also a 5-wire one. Please take a look at my o2 questions in the original post. Thanks.
02-15-2011, 08:42 PM
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Nope, it's a 5-wire: red, black, white, yellow, grey. This first pic was taken directly from the bottom of the engine bay. The length was perfect. It's the Bosch 17161 model.
Other related information here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ompressor.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post4520568
P.S. The Evap Monitors is ready. Too bad the O2 sensor code came up. Now I have to start the drive cycle all over again. At least I know now though that all the readiness codes will eventually get to the OK status on my car.
UPDATE: After resetting the codes just this afternoon, I've only driven 30 miles and all readiness codes have the ok status with the exception of Catalyst Mon and Seconary Air Sys Mon. Yes, that means Evap Mon is OK! This means that the 20 min idle is not required to make the Evap Mon to the OK status. This is very good news. I can't imagine how much gas I wasted doing that idling time 4x! Ugh. My best guess is that the 75% full tank is definitely required. I'm not sure what else I did to make it OK. Wish I knew.
Other related information here:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ompressor.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post4520568
P.S. The Evap Monitors is ready. Too bad the O2 sensor code came up. Now I have to start the drive cycle all over again. At least I know now though that all the readiness codes will eventually get to the OK status on my car.
UPDATE: After resetting the codes just this afternoon, I've only driven 30 miles and all readiness codes have the ok status with the exception of Catalyst Mon and Seconary Air Sys Mon. Yes, that means Evap Mon is OK! This means that the 20 min idle is not required to make the Evap Mon to the OK status. This is very good news. I can't imagine how much gas I wasted doing that idling time 4x! Ugh. My best guess is that the 75% full tank is definitely required. I'm not sure what else I did to make it OK. Wish I knew.
Last edited by casper_c230; 02-16-2011 at 01:01 AM.
02-19-2011, 06:34 PM
#10
Member
Thread Starter
MORE UPDATES:
1. As of last night when I checked again with the scanner, the Secondary Air Sys mon is OK. I'm still awaiting the Catalyst Mon. It's still INC (incomplete).
2. Rockauto shows the upstream o2 sensor as having 5-wires and the downstream as having 4-wires. I'm assuming that's why Cory may have been confused. They're not the same. The M271 I suspect has one of each. I'm not definite on this information b/c I didn't visually verify how many wires on the downstream o2 sensor. This is just what Rockauto happens to show. I trust them enough since they take responsibility and follow the correct course of action if they find that they're website is wrong leading to them into sending an incompatible part (it's happened to me before when they sold me an incorrect Akebono brake pad set that didn't fit).
1. As of last night when I checked again with the scanner, the Secondary Air Sys mon is OK. I'm still awaiting the Catalyst Mon. It's still INC (incomplete).
2. Rockauto shows the upstream o2 sensor as having 5-wires and the downstream as having 4-wires. I'm assuming that's why Cory may have been confused. They're not the same. The M271 I suspect has one of each. I'm not definite on this information b/c I didn't visually verify how many wires on the downstream o2 sensor. This is just what Rockauto happens to show. I trust them enough since they take responsibility and follow the correct course of action if they find that they're website is wrong leading to them into sending an incompatible part (it's happened to me before when they sold me an incorrect Akebono brake pad set that didn't fit).
Last edited by casper_c230; 02-19-2011 at 06:37 PM.
03-01-2011, 01:01 PM
#11
Member
Thread Starter
I passed smog! So happy. I thought I'd help conclude this thread by sharing what I did to set the Catalyst Monitor. The following steps could be total coincidence and have absolutely nothing to do with helping me set the code to OK status, but I thought I'd post it anyone in case someone needs a last resort. I literally passed smog 2 days before it was due! To avoid late fees, registration can be paid ahead of time so you have additional time for smog but both need to still be done before your sticker expires. You can still get cited for not having an up to date sticker.
I had been driving for almost two weeks covering hundreds of miles. Each evening I'd scan the system only to see disappointment on my OBDII reader.
Again, the following steps could be pure coincidence or perhaps a combination of these helped contribute to okaying my Catalyst Mon. Totally not sure.
1. Warmed up engine w/all accessories off including headlights (not sure that matters)
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop (it helps to be going up hill so you slow quicker and cars behind you aren't wondering WTF).
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
5. Drove at 65 mph for 10 minutes.
That was pretty much it. I think it has something to do with driving steadily at highway speeds for awhile, like 10 min. I'm fairly certain the Catalyst Mon tests when the car is moving. Don't try idling for 20 minutes thinking it will help.
So where can you do this? Sunday morning at 7:00am down the 280 freeway (if you're in the Bay Area). Think Saturday might work? Nope, there's actually plenty of people out early morning on Saturday. Don't feel like waking up to go do your drive cycle at 7am on a Sunday? Well, neither does anyone else. That's why you have to do it. There's few people at 3:30am also, but it just seems more dangerous and you have to have your headlights on. The key is to slow to 0 (if you choose to try it and think that it helps) on an incline. If you do it downhill, you'll never stop. If you do it on a flat, it will take forever and by the time you're at slow speeds, cars will be up on your butt. Do it uphill and you'll be in good shape.
Good luck.
I had been driving for almost two weeks covering hundreds of miles. Each evening I'd scan the system only to see disappointment on my OBDII reader.
Again, the following steps could be pure coincidence or perhaps a combination of these helped contribute to okaying my Catalyst Mon. Totally not sure.
1. Warmed up engine w/all accessories off including headlights (not sure that matters)
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop (it helps to be going up hill so you slow quicker and cars behind you aren't wondering WTF).
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
5. Drove at 65 mph for 10 minutes.
That was pretty much it. I think it has something to do with driving steadily at highway speeds for awhile, like 10 min. I'm fairly certain the Catalyst Mon tests when the car is moving. Don't try idling for 20 minutes thinking it will help.
So where can you do this? Sunday morning at 7:00am down the 280 freeway (if you're in the Bay Area). Think Saturday might work? Nope, there's actually plenty of people out early morning on Saturday. Don't feel like waking up to go do your drive cycle at 7am on a Sunday? Well, neither does anyone else. That's why you have to do it. There's few people at 3:30am also, but it just seems more dangerous and you have to have your headlights on. The key is to slow to 0 (if you choose to try it and think that it helps) on an incline. If you do it downhill, you'll never stop. If you do it on a flat, it will take forever and by the time you're at slow speeds, cars will be up on your butt. Do it uphill and you'll be in good shape.
Good luck.
Last edited by casper_c230; 03-01-2011 at 01:04 PM.
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OldFlyer (09-17-2018)
02-18-2012, 11:37 AM
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2005 C230k
I can attest to this method.
Did almost the same thing.
1. 60mph constant 10 min
2. 2 min idle in D
3. 65mph constant in 5 min
IM status on obd2 scanner all clear!
Thanks again!
Did almost the same thing.
1. 60mph constant 10 min
2. 2 min idle in D
3. 65mph constant in 5 min
IM status on obd2 scanner all clear!
Thanks again!
I passed smog! So happy. I thought I'd help conclude this thread by sharing what I did to set the Catalyst Monitor. The following steps could be total coincidence and have absolutely nothing to do with helping me set the code to OK status, but I thought I'd post it anyone in case someone needs a last resort. I literally passed smog 2 days before it was due! To avoid late fees, registration can be paid ahead of time so you have additional time for smog but both need to still be done before your sticker expires. You can still get cited for not having an up to date sticker.
I had been driving for almost two weeks covering hundreds of miles. Each evening I'd scan the system only to see disappointment on my OBDII reader.
Again, the following steps could be pure coincidence or perhaps a combination of these helped contribute to okaying my Catalyst Mon. Totally not sure.
1. Warmed up engine w/all accessories off including headlights (not sure that matters)
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop (it helps to be going up hill so you slow quicker and cars behind you aren't wondering WTF).
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
5. Drove at 65 mph for 10 minutes.
That was pretty much it. I think it has something to do with driving steadily at highway speeds for awhile, like 10 min. I'm fairly certain the Catalyst Mon tests when the car is moving. Don't try idling for 20 minutes thinking it will help.
So where can you do this? Sunday morning at 7:00am down the 280 freeway (if you're in the Bay Area). Think Saturday might work? Nope, there's actually plenty of people out early morning on Saturday. Don't feel like waking up to go do your drive cycle at 7am on a Sunday? Well, neither does anyone else. That's why you have to do it. There's few people at 3:30am also, but it just seems more dangerous and you have to have your headlights on. The key is to slow to 0 (if you choose to try it and think that it helps) on an incline. If you do it downhill, you'll never stop. If you do it on a flat, it will take forever and by the time you're at slow speeds, cars will be up on your butt. Do it uphill and you'll be in good shape.
Good luck.
I had been driving for almost two weeks covering hundreds of miles. Each evening I'd scan the system only to see disappointment on my OBDII reader.
Again, the following steps could be pure coincidence or perhaps a combination of these helped contribute to okaying my Catalyst Mon. Totally not sure.
1. Warmed up engine w/all accessories off including headlights (not sure that matters)
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop (it helps to be going up hill so you slow quicker and cars behind you aren't wondering WTF).
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
5. Drove at 65 mph for 10 minutes.
That was pretty much it. I think it has something to do with driving steadily at highway speeds for awhile, like 10 min. I'm fairly certain the Catalyst Mon tests when the car is moving. Don't try idling for 20 minutes thinking it will help.
So where can you do this? Sunday morning at 7:00am down the 280 freeway (if you're in the Bay Area). Think Saturday might work? Nope, there's actually plenty of people out early morning on Saturday. Don't feel like waking up to go do your drive cycle at 7am on a Sunday? Well, neither does anyone else. That's why you have to do it. There's few people at 3:30am also, but it just seems more dangerous and you have to have your headlights on. The key is to slow to 0 (if you choose to try it and think that it helps) on an incline. If you do it downhill, you'll never stop. If you do it on a flat, it will take forever and by the time you're at slow speeds, cars will be up on your butt. Do it uphill and you'll be in good shape.
Good luck.
08-21-2015, 07:55 AM
#14
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2007 Mercedes E550
Resets obd2 monitors
Hi all-
Buying a gorgeous c230 2005 kompressor from a friend!! Noticed that 3 out of 8 obd2 monitors are not ready. Questions: to reset I follow the prescribed drive cycle, drive 10 minutes at 55 mph, stop 2 minutes, drive 65 mph, 5 minutes? Does that mean I begin and end this procedure from a full stop? That is, do I start the car and go 55 from a full stop? And then after driving 65 for 5 minutes stop the car??
Buying a gorgeous c230 2005 kompressor from a friend!! Noticed that 3 out of 8 obd2 monitors are not ready. Questions: to reset I follow the prescribed drive cycle, drive 10 minutes at 55 mph, stop 2 minutes, drive 65 mph, 5 minutes? Does that mean I begin and end this procedure from a full stop? That is, do I start the car and go 55 from a full stop? And then after driving 65 for 5 minutes stop the car??
08-21-2015, 10:25 AM
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2007 Mercedes E550
There are no CEL codes. Just 3 monitors indicate "not ready", and my understnading is that the computer just needs to go through a drive cycle. So my question was in regard to how to do a correct drive cycle to reset. The monitors that are "not ready" are:
Catalyst Mon - inc
Evap System Mon - inc
Secondary Air System Mon - inc
But I don't remember exactly. Does that make sense?
Catalyst Mon - inc
Evap System Mon - inc
Secondary Air System Mon - inc
But I don't remember exactly. Does that make sense?
08-26-2015, 12:43 AM
#19
MBWorld Fanatic!
Have you tried the drive cycles suggested above by either casper_230 or Chetoc230? Curious if one of these works so I can get on with a smog test without driving around a few days and waiting...
Edit: A little info for posterity - I reset/erased codes on a Sunday evening and filled up to just above 3/4 tank. I'm about 5 miles away from my work and only drove to/from work. I checked with a scanner on Tuesday evening and the *ONLY* test completed was the EVAP test. There are 4 other tests needing to complete: HTR, O2S, CAT and AIR.
Edit: A little info for posterity - I reset/erased codes on a Sunday evening and filled up to just above 3/4 tank. I'm about 5 miles away from my work and only drove to/from work. I checked with a scanner on Tuesday evening and the *ONLY* test completed was the EVAP test. There are 4 other tests needing to complete: HTR, O2S, CAT and AIR.
Last edited by mtnman82; 08-26-2015 at 09:00 PM.
08-26-2015, 08:57 PM
#21
MBWorld Fanatic!
I started with the EVAP test complete per my post above & did this today:
1. 60mph constant 10 min
2. 2 min idle in D
3. 65mph constant in 5 min
The only thing left *not* cleared is AIR. From what I understand this test is run with the engine cold and must be below a certain temperature (40C = 104F). I live in the desert, and it's been ~90F in the mornings here. From what I've been able to find, I need to fast idle (1450 rpm) in Park until the engine temp is between 160F and 220F, then continue to fast idle for 7 minutes while still in P (engine must stay below 220F), regular idle for 6 seconds, then turn off, wait for 10 seconds and repeat. I will try this as soon as I get a chance (maybe tomorrow if I can get up early enough)...
1. 60mph constant 10 min
2. 2 min idle in D
3. 65mph constant in 5 min
The only thing left *not* cleared is AIR. From what I understand this test is run with the engine cold and must be below a certain temperature (40C = 104F). I live in the desert, and it's been ~90F in the mornings here. From what I've been able to find, I need to fast idle (1450 rpm) in Park until the engine temp is between 160F and 220F, then continue to fast idle for 7 minutes while still in P (engine must stay below 220F), regular idle for 6 seconds, then turn off, wait for 10 seconds and repeat. I will try this as soon as I get a chance (maybe tomorrow if I can get up early enough)...
Last edited by mtnman82; 08-28-2015 at 12:53 PM.
08-27-2015, 11:53 PM
#23
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My guess is the 'AIR' test isn't complete yet, like mine? My smog tech said that one would take the longest because it only runs when the engine is cool like startup in the morning. I didn't have time this morning but will try the test above tomorrow early morning as I have a smog test scheduled later in the morning.
Edit: OK, did the AIR procedure I posted above this morning and it was a no-go. I read somewhere else that there is a 'trip meter' which needs to see some driving and two separate trips (drives) on the vehicle so I'm really confused now. I also found another long, protracted procedure that's 16 steps long, needs to be repeated, and is ~7.5 miles and takes 25 minutes. I will try to do that one tomorrow morning and again on Sunday morning (have to repeat the procedure and need to begin with the engine cold).
Edit2: Did the procedure again this morning but still no luck clearing AIR. The instructions presented seem to be a little incomplete and interpreting more closely I think the car should be *driven* for the 7 minutes at ~1450 rpm. This would coincide more with the other lengthy directions I will try next (and post if they work)... I did drive around yesterday during the day, probably 30-40 miles.
Edit: OK, did the AIR procedure I posted above this morning and it was a no-go. I read somewhere else that there is a 'trip meter' which needs to see some driving and two separate trips (drives) on the vehicle so I'm really confused now. I also found another long, protracted procedure that's 16 steps long, needs to be repeated, and is ~7.5 miles and takes 25 minutes. I will try to do that one tomorrow morning and again on Sunday morning (have to repeat the procedure and need to begin with the engine cold).
Edit2: Did the procedure again this morning but still no luck clearing AIR. The instructions presented seem to be a little incomplete and interpreting more closely I think the car should be *driven* for the 7 minutes at ~1450 rpm. This would coincide more with the other lengthy directions I will try next (and post if they work)... I did drive around yesterday during the day, probably 30-40 miles.
Last edited by mtnman82; 08-29-2015 at 03:26 PM.
09-11-2015, 12:00 PM
#24
MBWorld Fanatic!
So I accidentally hit the erase button when I was checking things again this past weekend. UUuuugh. I tried running this long, elaborate procedure of about 25 steps of starting, stopping idling, etc. and it did nothing. So I drove it during the weekend and beginning of the week as normal, and we have had cooler mornings all that time so I think that might have helped with the AIR test. I checked again yesterday morning and CAT and EVAP were still not cleared, so I went and filled up (needed gas) then did this:
1. Car was warm and had driven to work and around a bit
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop.
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
Then I checked with the scanner again and all was clear except for EVAP, plus it is showing the P0406 pending. I know I fixed the leak and EVAP was cleared earlier, so I'm thinking (hoping) it's waiting until fuel gets down below 3/4 tank to run the test.
The good news here is in California EVAP is the ONLY test they will let you pass smog if it's not cleared out yet. So I took her in this morning at 7:30 and shortly after 8:00 got the call that it had passed with no problems.
1. Car was warm and had driven to work and around a bit
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop.
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
Then I checked with the scanner again and all was clear except for EVAP, plus it is showing the P0406 pending. I know I fixed the leak and EVAP was cleared earlier, so I'm thinking (hoping) it's waiting until fuel gets down below 3/4 tank to run the test.
The good news here is in California EVAP is the ONLY test they will let you pass smog if it's not cleared out yet. So I took her in this morning at 7:30 and shortly after 8:00 got the call that it had passed with no problems.
Last edited by mtnman82; 09-11-2015 at 12:07 PM.
01-28-2016, 04:00 AM
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Mercedes Benz ML350
This really works!
Tried this on a 2004 Mercedes Benz ML350 and I am so grateful to casper_c230 for sharing this thread! You saved me a 100 mile trip which my mechanic told me to do in order to have the "ok" on the catalytic Monitor.
I passed smog! So happy. I thought I'd help conclude this thread by sharing what I did to set the Catalyst Monitor. The following steps could be total coincidence and have absolutely nothing to do with helping me set the code to OK status, but I thought I'd post it anyone in case someone needs a last resort. I literally passed smog 2 days before it was due! To avoid late fees, registration can be paid ahead of time so you have additional time for smog but both need to still be done before your sticker expires. You can still get cited for not having an up to date sticker.
I had been driving for almost two weeks covering hundreds of miles. Each evening I'd scan the system only to see disappointment on my OBDII reader.
Again, the following steps could be pure coincidence or perhaps a combination of these helped contribute to okaying my Catalyst Mon. Totally not sure.
1. Warmed up engine w/all accessories off including headlights (not sure that matters)
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop (it helps to be going up hill so you slow quicker and cars behind you aren't wondering WTF).
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
5. Drove at 65 mph for 10 minutes.
That was pretty much it. I think it has something to do with driving steadily at highway speeds for awhile, like 10 min. I'm fairly certain the Catalyst Mon tests when the car is moving. Don't try idling for 20 minutes thinking it will help.
So where can you do this? Sunday morning at 7:00am down the 280 freeway (if you're in the Bay Area). Think Saturday might work? Nope, there's actually plenty of people out early morning on Saturday. Don't feel like waking up to go do your drive cycle at 7am on a Sunday? Well, neither does anyone else. That's why you have to do it. There's few people at 3:30am also, but it just seems more dangerous and you have to have your headlights on. The key is to slow to 0 (if you choose to try it and think that it helps) on an incline. If you do it downhill, you'll never stop. If you do it on a flat, it will take forever and by the time you're at slow speeds, cars will be up on your butt. Do it uphill and you'll be in good shape.
Good luck.
I had been driving for almost two weeks covering hundreds of miles. Each evening I'd scan the system only to see disappointment on my OBDII reader.
Again, the following steps could be pure coincidence or perhaps a combination of these helped contribute to okaying my Catalyst Mon. Totally not sure.
1. Warmed up engine w/all accessories off including headlights (not sure that matters)
2. Drove at 55 mph for 10 minutes.
3. Slowed to a complete stop (it helps to be going up hill so you slow quicker and cars behind you aren't wondering WTF).
4. Pulled over to the shoulder in D to idle for 2 minutes.
5. Drove at 65 mph for 10 minutes.
That was pretty much it. I think it has something to do with driving steadily at highway speeds for awhile, like 10 min. I'm fairly certain the Catalyst Mon tests when the car is moving. Don't try idling for 20 minutes thinking it will help.
So where can you do this? Sunday morning at 7:00am down the 280 freeway (if you're in the Bay Area). Think Saturday might work? Nope, there's actually plenty of people out early morning on Saturday. Don't feel like waking up to go do your drive cycle at 7am on a Sunday? Well, neither does anyone else. That's why you have to do it. There's few people at 3:30am also, but it just seems more dangerous and you have to have your headlights on. The key is to slow to 0 (if you choose to try it and think that it helps) on an incline. If you do it downhill, you'll never stop. If you do it on a flat, it will take forever and by the time you're at slow speeds, cars will be up on your butt. Do it uphill and you'll be in good shape.
Good luck.
