So I've decided to take out my engine and tear into it. I was just wondering where is a good place to get the bottom end and what kind of pistons / rods / crank / ect. should I use?

Also, what kind of top end should I use? I want this engine to be strong as all hell. What kind of rockers, springs, ect should I use?

Any suggestions welcome!!!!

When I do get it pulled and if its really shot I may just try slapping a 04 E55 engine into it. Has anyone tried this??

I may just try getting a 430 engine and doing some super upgrading. Make it a whole different animal. With a 430 engine I could bore it bigger and possibly make it a 6.0...


Thanks guys!!

 

There are some good contacts on this site for low mlg long/short blocks for your car.... and there are some 5.5's on eabay now for low prices. The key is finding a good one.

 

Wow ...major baller project.

Looking forward to your results.

Big vote for titanium where ever you can....connecting rods, valve spring retainers, wrist pins fro example. Knife the crankshaft and bore it out all the way.

As betraza wrote above, an engine swap would be easier and less costly. Get a short block and rebuild your current heads for example.

 

 

Ideas on what to do if building a motor.
If your going N/A i would say that you need higher compression, port the heads, cams, and so on.

If your are going boost then lower the compression ratio and you can make some really big numbers.

Question what are you planing on doing?

 

I think I hear a maniacal laugh in the silence there! Can't wait to see what you come up with!

 

I was thinking titanium as well. Crower said they'd make me valves, springs, retainers, ect. JE said if I sent them my piston, rod and bearing and crank shaft they'd make me them forged, but stroked to a 6.3L. It'll be about 14k for this set up... But then what about the brain to manage this?

I've decided to go NA. I'm gonna see how far I can go. This is just a outline for right now...

 

Shardul will port a set of 55 heads for you.... about $3K.

Cool project. A high winding N/A motor is sooo sexy.

 

What exactly would come with porting them?

What kinda horse power/torque is expected out of ported heads without a tune?

 

why would you completely rebuild an engine with titanium parts port and polish the heads and not spend another 500 to 1000$ to tune it?

 

Where can I get it tuned on the west coast?

 

Jerry from Eurocharged can tune remotely.

I say you continue with the E55K swap.

 

What kind of power will a 6.3L make? Also what kind of RPM can it pull?

 

Well, if i go with the set up I want to, I will be aiming for at least 500-550WHP NA, which is reasonable. I want to hit at least 7500 RPM as well. But if I can push it further I will

 

Wow you have pretty big goals. Good luck. Are you going to sleeve the block? Can't just drop any pistons in a alusil bore. I have a torn down w211 E55 engine so let me know if you need anything. Although I would go fi if you are going to spend all that money. fyi, rods and crank are already forged from the factory. Just the pistons are junk

 

Ok guys back to this thread. So my engine will be coming out soon due to damage (see my W208 tear down thread).

Now, before I start planning I need to figure out how were gonna go about this...

Does anyone here know anything about stroking these engines? Is it even possible to stroke it past 5.5L? I wanted to get it to about 6.2L+

A 2007 E55 engine is about 6k. But then I need the ECU, and a lot of other stuff to support it. We estimated it will cost about 12k to do a E55 swap.

Does anyone know someone with a short block for sell? A good short block.


Blackbenzz, what is a "alusil bore?"

What if I bore it out more and put bigger pistons in? I hear there is silicone on the cylinder walls?

Let me know your ideas!!!!

Thanks guys!!!!!!!

 

I am curious, what is the problem with your engine? I saw your other thread, and your only concern is the sound from cylinder #3. It looks like the scratched wall is the one that causing the problem.

I notice it has garbage around the pistons head, so it may be contaminated from the fuel.

 

We dont know yet. I'll let you guys know when I find out.

Can these cylinder walls be re bored? Or is it not a option because of the silicone lining ?

Thanks guys!

 

The cyl walls have a coating, so your boring options may be limited; however, some local guys I know are looking into re-sleeving these short blocks and fitting them with off the shelf performance internals which are readily avail and more cost effective. You might contact shardul (e55k car guy) for more info on this.

Some options I've thought about since I started playing with the STAR:

1. clk55 motor - stroked to 5.8, brabus does this. Big money, 400-420hp/400ft-lbs from what I recall.

2. kleemann blower - they have a special running $8000 +/-....... blower alone will net pretty close to 350-380 at the wheels..... at exhaust and you're up to 380-400 at the wheels....then add cams and over 410 at the wheels.... ported heads 450+ at wheels....

blower - $8500 + $1500-2K install
cams - $1500 used - $2500+ installation
headers -
p/p heads - $3000 + installation

3. E55k Swap - only a couple people have done this...... the complete motor is not too bad @ $5000 - $6500 for a complete low mile motor/blower.... but the tuning/adaptation to you non-Kompressor car/ecu/tcu/trans is the challenge. You need to find someone local to help with the wiring/tuning. Even after this the cars I've seen still lost some functionality of abs,etc..... which I'm not willing to give up. Maybe someone has this all sorted out by now.

With the e55k motor you can reach 500 rwhp pretty readily with pulley/tune/exhaust..... there is a local guy running close to 600rwhp in a cl55 bad-to-the-bone.

4. The final option which I carefully list here in amg-land is an LS swap. If you want to go really fast, and don't care how you do it....... LS7 427/6speed swap full autometer cage cluster in dash...... the sky is the limit and anyone can tune it..... at this power level you will probably just end up chaning out the IRS for a solid 9" ford axle... at which point you might as well have bought a fox mustang to begin with

5. Final option part b - your motor with a 200 shot wet system NOS........ properly tuned this can be very effective.

GL>

 

How does re sleeving it work?

Lets say I was to go with a LS7. How complex would this be?

And the one i may end up doing - NOS. What exactly would i need for this?

 

Put in new iron sleeves. Lots of info with google search. Look up darton sleeves. Very strong. If you aren't in a rush stay tuned and there may be some products you will be interested in!

Very. you need to make mounts and go standalone engine and Trans management. If you go ford 9" rear alot of custom work

A nitrous kit preferably direct port and a good tune. A progressive shot would work best

 

So I would take my block to a place that puts sleeves in and they would punch out the old sleeves and press the new ones in?? Is this how it would work?

What products?

But if i was to resleeve it with different sleeves, then the 350HP and 376 TRQ would be lost correct? My HP/TRQ curve will chance as well?