One advice: Get the extended warranty! R-Class (W251)
With all the work we just had done under warranty, it was worth buying the extended warranty.
BTW: How's that 996TT? I've got an 87 911 Turbo.
Otherwise, I will wait until you have to buy it since many extended warranty does start the coverage the date you buy the warranty and not when your original factory warranty expires.
Last edited by supernsx; Jan 6, 2011 at 11:56 PM.
Otherwise, I will wait until you have to buy it since many extended warranty does start the coverage the date you buy the warranty and not when your original factory warranty expires.
a930: I actually sold it last July, I just haven't updated my avatar (hadn't been here in awhile but just got the R for my wife). It was a fun car, I've got an 09 z06 now - not as sexy as the porsche but weighs about 300lbs less and currently (always going up) making about 150rwhp more
I want to get one in place asap....don't want to get caught with my pants down.
Bad crane sensor, one automatic side mirror, loose steerling column and bad accelerate padel.
Total repair cost: $1450

Still three more years to go on my extended warranty that has paid over $6000 of MB repair work already. I told my wife that if I don't have extended warranty today, I am going to sell the car. I am sure the other three air struts will die on me in the next three years and it will set the extended warranty back for another $9K......
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
It is going to hit the $10K mark for total reimbursement... totally luck out with the extended warranty.
I think I had to fix the parking sensors two times.
The warranty would have been a huge waste for me. BUT - the car ran great the whole time.
Guess what?
CPO DOES NOT COVER IT as they consider it a wear item!
Even worse, MB dealer wants $650 for the repair(less 15% discount).
Ugh!
PL
To help preserve boots, I put Armor All or Clear Guard on those couple times a year and the rubber get preserved.
I've owned a w115, w123s, w124s, a w140, a w201 (2.3-16v
) and still own a 1st gen w210. The period in between the w210 and the w251 pig was filled with a couple of Audis and a Porsche because of the MB quality decline and reliability horrors that IMO started with the 2nd gen w210 (though some might say the 1st genw210, the w220, or even the w140).Those earlier cars were all absolutely phenomenally well engineered, well built, and very reliable. I only bought extended warranty on 1 w124 which I only used replacing 2 notorious 1st gen 4-matic transfer cases.
Over my relatively brief ownership of this w251 I had more problems and paid more out in repairs, THAN WITH ALL MY 8 OTHER MBs COMBINED (including a notorious w140). The dealers and MBUSA were not particularly helpful. And from what I've read here, seen in the reliability stats, and heard from my independent MB mechanics, my cRap-class was normal for that car and pretty much all modern MBs.
I will never buy another post 2000 MB again.
The 2 Audis and particularly the Porsche were great, just like the old MBs.
I've owned a w115, w123s, w124s, a w140, a w201 (2.3-16v
) and still own a 1st gen w210. The period in between the w210 and the w251 pig was filled with a couple of Audis and a Porsche because of the MB quality decline and reliability horrors that IMO started with the 2nd gen w210 (though some might say the 1st genw210, the w220, or even the w140).Those earlier cars were all absolutely phenomenally well engineered, well built, and very reliable. I only bought extended warranty on 1 w124 which I only used replacing 2 notorious 1st gen 4-matic transfer cases.
Over my relatively brief ownership of this w251 I had more problems and paid more out in repairs, THAN WITH ALL MY 8 OTHER MBs COMBINED (including a notorious w140). The dealers and MBUSA were not particularly helpful. And from what I've read here, seen in the reliability stats, and heard from my independent MB mechanics, my cRap-class was normal for that car and pretty much all modern MBs.
I will never buy another post 2000 MB again.
The 2 Audis and particularly the Porsche were great, just like the old MBs.
I've owned a w115, w123s, w124s, a w140, a w201 (2.3-16v
) and still own a 1st gen w210. The period in between the w210 and the w251 pig was filled with a couple of Audis and a Porsche because of the MB quality decline and reliability horrors that IMO started with the 2nd gen w210 (though some might say the 1st genw210, the w220, or even the w140).Those earlier cars were all absolutely phenomenally well engineered, well built, and very reliable. I only bought extended warranty on 1 w124 which I only used replacing 2 notorious 1st gen 4-matic transfer cases.
Over my relatively brief ownership of this w251 I had more problems and paid more out in repairs, THAN WITH ALL MY 8 OTHER MBs COMBINED (including a notorious w140). The dealers and MBUSA were not particularly helpful. And from what I've read here, seen in the reliability stats, and heard from my independent MB mechanics, my cRap-class was normal for that car and pretty much all modern MBs.
I will never buy another post 2000 MB again.
The 2 Audis and particularly the Porsche were great, just like the old MBs.
I had this problem a couple of summers ago. I removed and replaced bulbs for a few days (took out the bulb, put the same bulb back). It would work for an hour or so.
Finally took it to the dealer and got the new wiring harness. Car is a 2007 R500, now with ~84,000 miles. My repair was covered by the original warranty that was still in effect.
We took it the MB of Alexandria last week for Service B @ 84k miles. Among findings: Steering Rack reported to be leaking. Estimated repair with OEM part and standard labor: $1800. SA called saying that Extended Warranty company (Warrantech) wouldn't cover the OEM rack and was offering an aftermarket part for a lower price and wasn't telling him the origin of the part. SA said he wouldn't be able to warrantee either the part or the labor w/o knowing the source. In addition, he said Warrantech wouldn't pay the standard labor charge (~6.4 hours) but would pay for a lower charge (~4 hours). SA agreed to reduce my labor charge to what Warrantech would pay. If I bought the OEM part, I would have to pay $1,000 for the repair. I called Warrantech, was told that their replacement part was remanufactured by a reputable company (Meridian) and came with a 12mo/12k warranty. I called SA back, left message that I wanted them to install that part. When I confirmed with Warrantech that the warranty covered the part and labor, I was told that my out-of-pocket expense should only be my $100 deductible.
I got the impression that the dealer wanted to get its full profit from using the OEM part (btw, it has only a 12/12 warranty too!). If I had not called the warranty company, I would have had to choose whether to make the repair at a cost of an additional 1 grand, or sell the car and buy something with a lower complexity/design factor, e.g., a 2012 Dodge Durango Citadel with all the bells and whistles. I can see someone saying, "Ha! A Chrysler vehicle?!" Based on my research, the chassis and suspension are based on the ML and the 2012 version will have an 8-spd transmission. With high test gas costing ~$3.43/gal in Prince William County, VA, the low MPG won't be too bad a hit.
Anyway, with the cost factor resolved, we're getting the rack replaced and paying only the deductible for what would have otherwise been a painfully expensive repair.
JR
I had this problem a couple of summers ago. I removed and replaced bulbs for a few days (took out the bulb, put the same bulb back). It would work for an hour or so.
Finally took it to the dealer and got the new wiring harness. Car is a 2007 R500, now with ~84,000 miles. My repair was covered by the original warranty that was still in effect.
We took it the MB of Alexandria last week for Service B @ 84k miles. Among findings: Steering Rack reported to be leaking. Estimated repair with OEM part and standard labor: $1800. SA called saying that Extended Warranty company (Warrantech) wouldn't cover the OEM rack and was offering an aftermarket part for a lower price and wasn't telling him the origin of the part. SA said he wouldn't be able to warrantee either the part or the labor w/o knowing the source. In addition, he said Warrantech wouldn't pay the standard labor charge (~6.4 hours) but would pay for a lower charge (~4 hours). SA agreed to reduce my labor charge to what Warrantech would pay. If I bought the OEM part, I would have to pay $1,000 for the repair. I called Warrantech, was told that their replacement part was remanufactured by a reputable company (Meridian) and came with a 12mo/12k warranty. I called SA back, left message that I wanted them to install that part. When I confirmed with Warrantech that the warranty covered the part and labor, I was told that my out-of-pocket expense should only be my $100 deductible.
I got the impression that the dealer wanted to get its full profit from using the OEM part (btw, it has only a 12/12 warranty too!). If I had not called the warranty company, I would have had to choose whether to make the repair at a cost of an additional 1 grand, or sell the car and buy something with a lower complexity/design factor, e.g., a 2012 Dodge Durango Citadel with all the bells and whistles. I can see someone saying, "Ha! A Chrysler vehicle?!" Based on my research, the chassis and suspension are based on the ML and the 2012 version will have an 8-spd transmission. With high test gas costing ~$3.43/gal in Prince William County, VA, the low MPG won't be too bad a hit.
Anyway, with the cost factor resolved, we're getting the rack replaced and paying only the deductible for what would have otherwise been a painfully expensive repair.
JR
My problem is for the "front" differential. It is making excessive grinding noise while driving. The technician was able to tell it is the differential problem by the noise will go quieter when I accelerate and louder when I take my foot off the pedal.
Got a call from the SA and it seems like Chrysler is willing to pick up the tab. I am going to pretend on paying the $200 deductible as my payment to change the differential fluid.... feel better that way.
Last edited by supernsx; Jan 5, 2012 at 10:59 PM.
Sure these things are insurance. But like the earlier post, I'd rather take my chances with the additional protection than not. My dad used to say that it's one thing to own a nice car. It's something else altogether to be able to afford it. Warranties help you afford it.
That is because DBAG took their eye off the ball, and let quality slip. If they don't get quality back up on top, resale and depreciation will stay bad.
4 problems:
Steering Pump Reservoir Leaking
Left Front Axle worn out
Transmission Conductor Plate malfunction
Engine Gasket Leaking
Three days and $3600 later, just get the car back. Now, the total extended warranty has paid out over $11K after 3 years.


