Evap system in 2005 c230 Kompressor coupe
02-12-2012, 11:51 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London ON Canada
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
Evap system in 2005 c230 Kompressor coupe
Hi folks, I hope you can help me.
I've been popping P0456 codes and have replaced the purge valve (dealer) and this did not fix the problem.
Took the car back and they found a crack in a line the fuel filler area. The filler neck itself seems to be fine, no rust or anything like that. The line looks like black plastic and seems to run from the metal filler neck to the evap system and is severed. Tough to see. The dealer quoted me $650.00 to fix this.
Other threads in this forum deal with the filler neck but I haven't seen any that deal with this black plastic line.
Has anyone had any experience with this? Could the line be repaired?
Failing that I could order the part from the USA if I knew the part number.
Thanks in advance for any help.....Dougo01
I've been popping P0456 codes and have replaced the purge valve (dealer) and this did not fix the problem.
Took the car back and they found a crack in a line the fuel filler area. The filler neck itself seems to be fine, no rust or anything like that. The line looks like black plastic and seems to run from the metal filler neck to the evap system and is severed. Tough to see. The dealer quoted me $650.00 to fix this.
Other threads in this forum deal with the filler neck but I haven't seen any that deal with this black plastic line.
Has anyone had any experience with this? Could the line be repaired?
Failing that I could order the part from the USA if I knew the part number.
Thanks in advance for any help.....Dougo01
02-12-2012, 12:24 PM
#2
Super Moderator
P0456 = Evaporative Emission Control System Leak Detected
(very small leak)
Has the dealer smoke tested the system & is the cap OK? cracked filler neck is the most common failure.
Which tube are you talking about?
(very small leak)
Has the dealer smoke tested the system & is the cap OK? cracked filler neck is the most common failure.
Which tube are you talking about?
02-12-2012, 02:14 PM
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London ON Canada
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
Hi Glyn:
When the code first popped I replaced the gas cap and reset with my OBD2 tool. The light came on a couple of days later.
Then I went to my mechanic (not an MB Dealer) who performed a smoke test but could not find a leak. He reset the CEL and I believe the driving codes as the light stayed off for a couple of weeks.
Then I took the car to the MB Dealer who installed a new purge valve. 2 days later the light came on again and when I brought the car back in, they pulled the right rear tire and fender liner off the car.
They showed me a severed line, it runs from just under the filler neck towards the front of the car (horizontally) so I assume it goes to the canister (#9 on your diagram vent line purge control valve-electronic accelerator actuator). It was difficult to see exactly where the line went as both the technician and the service manager and I all had our heads up under there, but I have see the severed line. I wonder if anyone has ever simply repaired the line.
The purge valve cost $450 and the new fix has been quoted at about $650. They've offered to reinstall my old purge valve and credit me for $200. So $900 for a $650 fix. I'm feeling a little bit BOHICA (bend-over-here-it-comes-again).
Thanks Dougo01
When the code first popped I replaced the gas cap and reset with my OBD2 tool. The light came on a couple of days later.
Then I went to my mechanic (not an MB Dealer) who performed a smoke test but could not find a leak. He reset the CEL and I believe the driving codes as the light stayed off for a couple of weeks.
Then I took the car to the MB Dealer who installed a new purge valve. 2 days later the light came on again and when I brought the car back in, they pulled the right rear tire and fender liner off the car.
They showed me a severed line, it runs from just under the filler neck towards the front of the car (horizontally) so I assume it goes to the canister (#9 on your diagram vent line purge control valve-electronic accelerator actuator). It was difficult to see exactly where the line went as both the technician and the service manager and I all had our heads up under there, but I have see the severed line. I wonder if anyone has ever simply repaired the line.
The purge valve cost $450 and the new fix has been quoted at about $650. They've offered to reinstall my old purge valve and credit me for $200. So $900 for a $650 fix. I'm feeling a little bit BOHICA (bend-over-here-it-comes-again).
Thanks Dougo01
02-12-2012, 02:17 PM
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London ON Canada
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
Hi Glyn:
I screwed up. The #9 line is correct but on your diagram it is called an a vent line activated charcoal canister-efillerneck of fuel tank.
Thanks Dougo01
I screwed up. The #9 line is correct but on your diagram it is called an a vent line activated charcoal canister-efillerneck of fuel tank.
Thanks Dougo01
02-12-2012, 04:52 PM
#6
Super Moderator
If it is pipe #9 from fillerneck to Charcoal filter to purge valve I see no reason why you can't repair it/replace a short piece of it. The $650 must be mainly labour.
02-12-2012, 06:54 PM
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London ON Canada
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
Thanks for your help. I'm gonna get my mechanic to look at the repair. Not sure what the estimate from the Dealer entailed, it was simply a verbal thing.
Car companies doing business here in Canada always seem to charge higher prices than in the USA. They say it's because of the vast distances, but hell, we all live within about 150 kilometers from the border.
Again thanks for your help...Dougo01
Car companies doing business here in Canada always seem to charge higher prices than in the USA. They say it's because of the vast distances, but hell, we all live within about 150 kilometers from the border.
Again thanks for your help...Dougo01
Trending Topics
02-12-2012, 07:30 PM
#8
Super Moderator
Yes - I have family living in Vancouver & friends in Burlington outside Toronto. Both cross the border frequently for cheaper purchases.
02-13-2012, 02:44 PM
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London ON Canada
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
I'm exactly halfway between Toronto and Detroit (London Ontario) so maybe I need to get familiar with a Detroit area dealer.
02-22-2012, 06:48 PM
#10
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London ON Canada
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
Hopefully this is my last reply to this problem. I took the car to my indy mechanic, a guy I trust and he seems to have repaired the line. apparently where the line was broken was right at the filler neck and replacing the line itself wasn't an option.
So what he did, he inserted a "stent" a metal line into the other line and epoxied the new fabrication to the filler neck. He pressure tested it and says he thinks it'll hold.
I guess time will tell but the charge was $140 rather than the $650 quoted by the dealer.
Just thought this might save someone in a similar situation a couple of bucks.
So what he did, he inserted a "stent" a metal line into the other line and epoxied the new fabrication to the filler neck. He pressure tested it and says he thinks it'll hold.
I guess time will tell but the charge was $140 rather than the $650 quoted by the dealer.
Just thought this might save someone in a similar situation a couple of bucks.
02-24-2012, 08:16 PM
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mb c230 2006
Hopefully this is my last reply to this problem. I took the car to my indy mechanic, a guy I trust and he seems to have repaired the line. apparently where the line was broken was right at the filler neck and replacing the line itself wasn't an option.
So what he did, he inserted a "stent" a metal line into the other line and epoxied the new fabrication to the filler neck. He pressure tested it and says he thinks it'll hold.
I guess time will tell but the charge was $140 rather than the $650 quoted by the dealer.
Just thought this might save someone in a similar situation a couple of bucks.
So what he did, he inserted a "stent" a metal line into the other line and epoxied the new fabrication to the filler neck. He pressure tested it and says he thinks it'll hold.
I guess time will tell but the charge was $140 rather than the $650 quoted by the dealer.
Just thought this might save someone in a similar situation a couple of bucks.
Great to see this thread, as I too got this code last night. I ran my A/C unit for the first time this year yesterday. I parked my car, went to grab something to eat and when I got back to my car, the infamous CEL light came on. I immediately, took out my OBD2 SCANNER (thanks, Glyn!) and got the P0456 code - Evaporator Leak (very small). I have no clue if this has anything to do with the A/C, but I have been getting it charged every summer since 2009. Obviously, it has a leak, but the dealer cannot seem to find it. Is this just a coincidence? Does one have anything to do with the other?At this point, should I follow Doug's lead and take the car to MB? They want $300 US to run the diagnostic and smoke the car. Seems high, given the fact that nothing is actually being fixed. Is this a job I can handle on my own with your guidance, Glyn?So, this just in. On my way home, I was driving my car with the CEL on. I was coming off the exist ramp when I swore my car died on me for like a second and then revived itself. All the accessory lights came, even the seat belt light. It was real weird. It happened once last week before the CEL came on. Once again, does one have anything to do with the other? How do I find out for sure what is going on for cheap? Any advice would be helpful. Need to get my car in tip-top shape!
By the way, what kind of damage will I cause if I don't get it fixed right away?
Thanks in advance!
02-24-2012, 09:13 PM
#13
MBWorld Fanatic!
(trying to anticipate potential future fixes/costs)
i've never heard of this problem until i saw this thread. glad to see the problem quickly resolved.
03-03-2012, 05:30 PM
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London ON Canada
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
Hi guys:
The CEL that lights up in orange relates to the emissions system. So BigShaun, (let me know what your car model is) the leak in the A/C unit is not related to that P0456 code. And the thing about your dash lights is probably unrelated. I'm not a mechanic but you may have 3 problems
This is what I did.
1. Check the gas cap. A lot of leaks are at the cap. You could remove the cap and replace it or remove the rubber seal inside the cap and turn it around. That might fix it. I'd do this before going to the garage.
2. Most independent mechanics can run a pressure or smoke test to determine where the leak is. If you don't have a mechanic, ask around and see who among your friends has a trust worthy one. Believe me they are out there. $300 for a diagnostic seems like a lot. If the leak is at the filler neck it can be tough to see. But tell the mechanic to remove the wheel/fender liner on the right rear and have a look. With a good flashlight.
3. If your car is a 2005 model (as mine is) they seem to have filler neck problems. This is the issue I had repaired.
4. The purge valve that I had replaced at $450 was not the problem and that seems to be an issue at every dealership...they don't want to fix the part, they simply replace parts until the problem is fixed or you run out of money.
5. Best way to save $$ is using a indy mechanic or DIY. I just bought a Haynes manual and plan to do some of the smaller repairs etc myself
6. There is no damage caused by this leak other than some off gas fumes leaking into the environment. If you have a clean air test (as we do in Ontario) you may need to get it fixed.
Hope this helps....pm me if you need more info.
Doug
The CEL that lights up in orange relates to the emissions system. So BigShaun, (let me know what your car model is) the leak in the A/C unit is not related to that P0456 code. And the thing about your dash lights is probably unrelated. I'm not a mechanic but you may have 3 problems
This is what I did.
1. Check the gas cap. A lot of leaks are at the cap. You could remove the cap and replace it or remove the rubber seal inside the cap and turn it around. That might fix it. I'd do this before going to the garage.
2. Most independent mechanics can run a pressure or smoke test to determine where the leak is. If you don't have a mechanic, ask around and see who among your friends has a trust worthy one. Believe me they are out there. $300 for a diagnostic seems like a lot. If the leak is at the filler neck it can be tough to see. But tell the mechanic to remove the wheel/fender liner on the right rear and have a look. With a good flashlight.
3. If your car is a 2005 model (as mine is) they seem to have filler neck problems. This is the issue I had repaired.
4. The purge valve that I had replaced at $450 was not the problem and that seems to be an issue at every dealership...they don't want to fix the part, they simply replace parts until the problem is fixed or you run out of money.
5. Best way to save $$ is using a indy mechanic or DIY. I just bought a Haynes manual and plan to do some of the smaller repairs etc myself
6. There is no damage caused by this leak other than some off gas fumes leaking into the environment. If you have a clean air test (as we do in Ontario) you may need to get it fixed.
Hope this helps....pm me if you need more info.
Doug
03-03-2012, 09:01 PM
#15
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
mb c230 2006
Update Gents...
Hi guys:
The CEL that lights up in orange relates to the emissions system. So BigShaun, (let me know what your car model is) the leak in the A/C unit is not related to that P0456 code. And the thing about your dash lights is probably unrelated. I'm not a mechanic but you may have 3 problems
This is what I did.
1. Check the gas cap. A lot of leaks are at the cap. You could remove the cap and replace it or remove the rubber seal inside the cap and turn it around. That might fix it. I'd do this before going to the garage.
2. Most independent mechanics can run a pressure or smoke test to determine where the leak is. If you don't have a mechanic, ask around and see who among your friends has a trust worthy one. Believe me they are out there. $300 for a diagnostic seems like a lot. If the leak is at the filler neck it can be tough to see. But tell the mechanic to remove the wheel/fender liner on the right rear and have a look. With a good flashlight.
3. If your car is a 2005 model (as mine is) they seem to have filler neck problems. This is the issue I had repaired.
4. The purge valve that I had replaced at $450 was not the problem and that seems to be an issue at every dealership...they don't want to fix the part, they simply replace parts until the problem is fixed or you run out of money.
5. Best way to save $$ is using a indy mechanic or DIY. I just bought a Haynes manual and plan to do some of the smaller repairs etc myself
6. There is no damage caused by this leak other than some off gas fumes leaking into the environment. If you have a clean air test (as we do in Ontario) you may need to get it fixed.
Hope this helps....pm me if you need more info.
Doug
The CEL that lights up in orange relates to the emissions system. So BigShaun, (let me know what your car model is) the leak in the A/C unit is not related to that P0456 code. And the thing about your dash lights is probably unrelated. I'm not a mechanic but you may have 3 problems
This is what I did.
1. Check the gas cap. A lot of leaks are at the cap. You could remove the cap and replace it or remove the rubber seal inside the cap and turn it around. That might fix it. I'd do this before going to the garage.
2. Most independent mechanics can run a pressure or smoke test to determine where the leak is. If you don't have a mechanic, ask around and see who among your friends has a trust worthy one. Believe me they are out there. $300 for a diagnostic seems like a lot. If the leak is at the filler neck it can be tough to see. But tell the mechanic to remove the wheel/fender liner on the right rear and have a look. With a good flashlight.
3. If your car is a 2005 model (as mine is) they seem to have filler neck problems. This is the issue I had repaired.
4. The purge valve that I had replaced at $450 was not the problem and that seems to be an issue at every dealership...they don't want to fix the part, they simply replace parts until the problem is fixed or you run out of money.
5. Best way to save $$ is using a indy mechanic or DIY. I just bought a Haynes manual and plan to do some of the smaller repairs etc myself
6. There is no damage caused by this leak other than some off gas fumes leaking into the environment. If you have a clean air test (as we do in Ontario) you may need to get it fixed.
Hope this helps....pm me if you need more info.
Doug
Unfortunately, he did not have the part in and had to order it. I wasn't that sure about it all and pretty nervous. I mean, when does this car run smoothly without having to fix something??? Geez, it is a MB!!!! His last bit of advice was not to drive the car this weekend because the CPS was on the way out and I could get stuck and have to be towed.
Well, being a dad of two, keeping the car inside for a whole weekend was not an option. So, I took the car out to run some errands and low and behold, the car loses power. This usually happens really quick by the way. I am talking about a second or less. I looked down at the accessory lights and I see a quick message that reads - SPEED TRONIC DRIVE TO WORKSHOP. Right after that, BAM the CEL comes on. I drove it home pulled the code and guess what??? It is the darn P0335 code - CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR A. I guess my guy was right all along. Is it possible that the P0456 code was a faulty code and the real issue is the P0335? Anyway, I am bringing it in to be changed on Monday. He is charging me 180.00. Being that I need my car on the road, ASAP. I have no choice but to bite the bullet and pay up.
I hope this car does not become a money pit. Thanks for the advice. I'll keep you posted.
Bigshaun
03-04-2012, 12:49 PM
#16
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2011
Location: London ON Canada
Posts: 58
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
2005 230 Kompressor Coupe, 1977 Suzuki PE 250, 1977 Suzuki RM250, 1987 Toyota Supra
The P0335 code is something I have had no experience with. Nor the CPS. So I don't really know what to say.
With mine, I haven't had any problems with my car other than the filler neck. The guys on this forum seem to feel they are reliable cars. I bought mine in May and I've put 20,000 kilometers on it without and issues other than the CEL.
Last week, the MB dealer quoted me over $600 for the B service. I bought the oil and filters myself; cost me $135 and my mechanic did the work for $90. I have much more faith that my guy did the job right than I have faith in the Dealership. And saved almost $400.
If you're not a mechanic, the Haynes manual (costs about $20) is a good bet because it'll give you an idea about what is being done at the garage. Keeps the car from being such a mystery and it has lots of pictures etc.
Good luck with this
With mine, I haven't had any problems with my car other than the filler neck. The guys on this forum seem to feel they are reliable cars. I bought mine in May and I've put 20,000 kilometers on it without and issues other than the CEL.
Last week, the MB dealer quoted me over $600 for the B service. I bought the oil and filters myself; cost me $135 and my mechanic did the work for $90. I have much more faith that my guy did the job right than I have faith in the Dealership. And saved almost $400.
If you're not a mechanic, the Haynes manual (costs about $20) is a good bet because it'll give you an idea about what is being done at the garage. Keeps the car from being such a mystery and it has lots of pictures etc.
Good luck with this
