eusnaur

I have E320 2004 Model, I am noticing for couple of months that the car is throttling and jerking at low speeds especially when it is going down hill or uphill, somebody told me to replace the transmission fluid, it helped but still is jerking, any help in understanding the problem or any guidance in solving the same is highly appreciated.

vettdvr

Check for coolant in the transmission. Granted yours is after the radiator issue date problem but it is worth checking.

mcleantmw

There are several TSBs issued by MB on these transmissions. As vettdvr indicated, it could be coolant entering your transmission from a break in the integrated radiator that cools both the engine and the transmission. This issue affected mostly the 2003 models but some 2004 builds could also be affected. If you'll PM your email address to me, I'll send you the MB TSB for the problem of coolant contaminating the torque converter and transmission.

SZMB

Is it jerking or rough shifting between 1st and 2nd gear? If so, do a search on this forum and you'll find a few postings about this problem. My 2004 E500 had this problem. The dealer replaced the valve body in the transmission, filter & tranny fluid. Problem solved. It's an expensive repair, but covered under warranty when I first reported this problem before warranty expired.

MercFiveHundred

It's not the shift, it's the jerking in gear. I changed a lot on my tranny: Valve gear/body, Trans Control Unit, and flushed it. I had the vibration on light load and the flush only helped (no glycol) - old oil must have contaminatd the lock up in the converter?? I still have the jerking however. I'm convinced it's the torque converter, but i'm not surprised that it could be the clutch packs. I've been trying to do alot of research on my tranny, and i keep hearing about the clutch packs - and it would make sense as the jerking feels like when driving a stick and letting go of the clutch too fast.

eusnaur

Thank you for all for the insight on this issue, I believe i need a visit to the dealer with the TSBs in hand!

gaazmon

Even though my car was a 02/04 build, it had glycol contamination, just fiy

dewana421

Does it happen when you drive your card on "S" sports? or it also happen on "C" confortable. It should be only happening on "S" since it shifts gears as if you will be driving it on higher speed in sports mode. For slow driving put it on "C" and it will ride fine with no jerking and smooth gear shifting.

aintez

I think you have a vacuum leak somewhere from either a hose or a idle control sensor. Let us know how you go though

BlackBirdsEye

Hello, I know this is an old post but I'm wondering if eusnaur's issue was resolved. Because I'm having the same issue with my 05 e320 wagon. at low gears it does the jerky movement. if I hit the gas hard then I don't feel the jerky movement.

matty2tan

I just had my transmission fluid changed, and a mount replaced. I've had no problems with the car before, but it does lug at low speeds now-not quite hunting for gears, but seems like it slips out....hate the feeling, especially when I just had it checked at MB!


2003 E320 65000 miles

dubzino

Where did you have your fluid changed?

matty2tan

I had the fluid changed at a shop I've used for about 5 years-MB certified mechanics, never had a problem before with them. They didn't find the tranny mount though, that was found at the dealer, where I went to have my brake assist replaced ( under a "recall" ). I was surprised to find out that they charged $350 fro the fluid change, about what the shop charged me!

gaazmon

Couple of things I recently found through a search since I wanna try to fix mine. I have the same problem even after a brand new transmission was put in at 56K miles. Car has 104K miles now. Thing is idk if they did change the torque converter along with the transmission (maybe they used the old one ) so maybe these would help me out:

Symptoms I have (that I can remember off the top of my head):
1)jerking/shuddering at low speeds (2 to 5 mph in parking lots)
2)after up-shift into 3rd, some jerking at low rpm (around 2200 and below)
3)from standstill when I step on the gas hard, i get a sort of jolt/hesitation as if loss of power for split second (noticed mostly when making right turn from light or stop sign)
4)feel like the car is being held back when accelerating (happens on downhills too, kind of like engine is braking for me)

matty2tan

Looking at your post, it reminded me of my 97 E320 that had 295,000 on the clock before I sold it, never had the transmission fluid changed (at that time, I was told it was "lifetime!) an I remembered in the first 200,00 it had the same symptoms. It "held on" to the previous gear going into second, causing a jerking motion when it shifted. The transmission held out though-no other problems! Here's an odd one though; I have a round-a-bout in my neighborhood. My 03 E320 lugs when I enter from the 6 o'clock position, go left and exit at the 12... but not when I enter at the 12 and go left to the 6!

MARTYMAR

Although this might sound completely unrelated but check your Air MAF sensor. The problems you're describing sounds pretty close to what I experienced several years ago with my CLK55 AMG. My .2 cents

matty2tan

thanks Marty, I'll try that-can I test it or is it a "replace" part?

MARTYMAR

Matt,

Take a look at this link and read on...

Use it as a reference or starting point and continue to ask questions. Provide updates as your situation changes that way anyone on the forum can chime in with better or more suggestions. Good luck!

https://mbworld.org/forums/clk55-amg...stall-die.html

ozusa

It will cost about $200 or so for a new one, if you decide that's what you are going to do....

https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...2004-e320.html

cboino

2004 E500 4Matic, with 115,000 miles I had the rumble/shaking when the car changed gears, more so at low speeds. I had the transmission fluid changed and it was perfect. Now with 195,000 miles car has the same symptoms. My mechanic is telling me the torque converter needs to be rebuilt. I am thinking I should just change the fluid again, but wondering if it was the torque converter all along and changing the fluid simply eased the symptoms because the fluid should still be fine. The post by wschubbe on the solenoid makes a lot of sense. I am thinking I might give that a try.

MercFiveHundred

Not sure if i'm reading you right, but you didnt change the fluid for another 80,000 miles (from 115 to 195)? It's required every 40,000 with filter. If that's true, i would try that first and see if it works...

Depending on how long it's been shuttering, I agree with your mechnic, but i wouldnt get a rebuilt one. I had the exact same issue and solution as you on my e500, same mileage as you exactly too. I'm at 193 now. I dont hear shuttering anymore after 40,000 mile fluid and filter changes.

dunnman99

OK.

I know there is a lot of info on the transmission / glycol contamination issue.

Not to over simplify, but why not just add an external passive air/fluid tranny cooler to isolate the tranny fluid form the radiator and the possibility of leaks in the tranny cooler in the bottom tank of the radiator.

Lastly, can anyone supply a way to see if my radiator has been replaced?

I ask because when I got the car 1.5 years ago, it had a bit of a shutter / jostle when slowing at a light, and then getting back on the accelerator lightly. The local indy did a conductor / controller plate replacement and fluid flush at my request because I wanted to re-set the knowledge factor on services.

I have had no problems with the tranny and now just the other day, I get a studder twice in a parking lot while traveling around 5-10 mph and transitioning between slowing and accelerating.

If this car has not had the radiator replaced, and I just prolonged failure by doing a complete flush fill and plate replacement, I want to find out. I am in the motivation that I will replace the internal cooler with an external to save myself from a 3200 repair bill.

Yes I know Mercedes engineered it this way, but so has everyother auto maker in the world with an automatic transmission...why can't we also replace the internal one with a tastefully installed external and negate the glycol contamination possibilities?

N_Jay

By using the radiator to cool the transmission fluid, it also helps it warm up more quickly by being heated by the engine coolant.
It also helps provide stability to the fluid temperature preventing over cooling or over heating.

An independent cooler could not do that without adding a thermostatic bypass valve.

mcleantmw

As I indicated in my previous posting, the 2003 W211 E Class models, and some early builds of 2004s, with the OEM Valeo radiator, are prone to connector breaks that allows coolant to enter the transmission through the transmission cooling line that shares the radiator for cooling. This happened to my vehicle which was repaired under the warranty to replace the radiator with the upgraded part no. and a new torque converter......my transmission was flushed but didn't need replacement since I noticed the shifting problem and immediately took it to my MB Dealer for investigation. MB Technical Service Bulletin (TSB) P-B-27.55/50g of March 6, 2008, provides guidance to MB Dealers how to diagnose whether the vehicle has the Valeo radiator installed and testing for the glycol leak issue. It applies to the following models and symptoms:

Model 203.040/061/064/065/081/084/261/264/281/284/740/747/764
Model 209.365/375/376/465/475
Model 211.065/070/076/083/265/283
Up to Production Date 09/2003
Harsh Engagement Possibly Followed by Droning/Buzzing Noises During Light Acceleration Between Engine Speed of 1200 – 2500 RPM

The TSB also shows how to identify whether your installed radiator is the Valeo unit but you may need a mechanic to confirm it, e.g., I couldn't find the Valeo nameplate on my radiator. If anyone wants a copy of this TSB, send me a Private Message (PM) through this forum with your email address, and I'll be happy to email you this TSB.

mcleantmw

Seems to me the cheapest and easiest technical route would be to just do a preventative maintenance replacement of your existing OEM Valeo radiator with the upgraded MB replacement radiator part listed in the MB Parts Database that has the improved connector design. The current MB MSRP for the 2003 E500 replacement radiator is $605 plus installation labor, and some MB Dealer Service Departments sometimes provide discounts for parts and service like mine does (5 - 15%). You can also buy genuine MB parts at some online sites, e.g., this radiator is $454 at www.getmercedesparts.com, and have a third party MB service garage install it.