You won't see much even if you go through the trouble of defeating interlocks (micro switches) in the rear and having someone push the button in the front. Only turning on the motor with the power probe doesn't move the cylinders. With an oil puddle in that area, it's time to replace at least rear bow lock cylinder and case cover lock cylinder. It doesn't matter how long the fluid has been accumulating - your leaks are massive now!

You can move the top manually if you open the relief valve on the pump. The white cone on the pump is a guide for a flat screwdriver to open or close the valve. The rear bow lock can be moved manually with a 6-mm Allen wrench, and the case cover lock can be moved with a narrow 10-mm open wrench. Equipped with this knowledge, you can move the top manually and examine the two aluminum cylinder mentioned above and the five black cylinders (the main lift cylinders, the bow cylinders, and the case cover lift cylinder) for leaks.

If the motor doesn't turn at all with the new relay in place, then you can figure out positive and negative lead going to the motor and use your power probe to make absolutely sure it's the motor that's burnt out. Let's hope you won't have to do that...

Klaus

 

I was hoping not to continue this thread. New relay and some fluid. I hold down the headrest down button for many minutes and nothing. But I am not surprised. The roof wants to go down but physical can't. The headrest are fully extended to the point where they are touching the top. I am wondering if they are in a fully extended roll over stuck lock position. If so how do I unlock them? Are they controlled by the pump? How do I manually lower them? Do I need to do a reset to the pump so it knows that it as changed?

 

OK - got some coffee in me. Found the tool and section about lowering headrest. Realized I push the button to go down yesterday. In rereading. Hold the button in the up position for 8 seconds. Than push down. I love you Mercedes! Your a quirky crazy chick! But if you got the patience to play her games... I may to a reboot - pull battery- worried-seen some bad things happen after a battery disconnect.
I am running out of options and my friend Klaus may be getting a package. I rather get a package from Santa "Klaus". But I got a boat to prep

 

Roof Stuck due to roll bar. But I am determine to fix this myself. So I have been removing parts like meat from a chicken. I am down to the the bones and need help mates. Whats next? I replaced the relay and pressing the headrest button in either direction gives me a metalic click from the right side, facing the rollbar. But that's it... Other than maintance the car has been good. But I hear of people spending up to $6000 to get this problem fixed. It worked perfect the day before the headrest locked up. We hear that a defective relay causes this problem, for which MB has since replaced. HELP PLEASE!!!

 

I have the exact same problem. Pump motor spins but not pressure to the solenoids on the headrest. Want to lower RB manually, but cant figure it out. Keep us posted as to what you figured out.

 

Hello mb lover I'm benznbeemerz I have the same problem now and thanks luckiechukie1 I got to do this by myself ....but I want to give lots of credit to the person who wrote the thread step by step..I so happen to film a little of what the compartment looks like when you actually take it apart and I also have pictures. In my car my top was working fine until one day it started to struggle and heard a funny noise while trying to close it after that it stopped working to the point that it didn't close properly.the next day I came here and read the thread but no pics it took me 3 1/2 hours to take it apart and refill it with hydronic fluid which I'll show the exact one to buy on my video.long story short it had a leak bc I kept seeing hydronic fluid on my truck lid so I took it apart too and there was the leak the oil cylinder latch $130 on amazon.com I haven't changed it yet I'm still waiting one it.the video is going up on YouTube look for it under kingofnewyork3 or Benz convertible problem. Thanks

 

It's up and by the way if you pop the trunk manually with the key and do all the work from the back and you fill it up with some hydrolic fluid or change the relay the top does it's job on its own instead of opening it manually that could potentially mess it up .the video is up on YouTube enjoy.

 

Check out this video on YouTube:

 

ive found out that my pump motor had burnt out so ive had it rebuilt and ive fitted it but all i get now is louder clicking noises coming from the boot im not sure if its the ecu or the pump relay any ideas on how to get the pump working do i have to bleed it or reset it in any way thanks from gary

 

I had the rebuild done by tophydraulics and did the reinstall. 30 hrs later success!!!!!

Seriously, I now could do it in under 3 hours. But it did take me 30 hours to fix. The first 10 I did not know what I was looking for and took apart way more than I needed too. But that only helped me later when things got confusing.

I took ABOUT 20 photos. There is as many steps to this as.... I don't know but lets say 40 plus. If you follow every step, it's as hard as baking a cake.

But it can get really crazy. If the top gets out of sync with the sensors, you could get really frustrated!

There are times to go at it from the top and times from the trunk. Times when things need to be clicked locked (3 of them) and times not.

Any way. I will gladly share this info for free. You should have seen some of my photos with text in previous posts. This is what I will do with each step.

I just want to make sure it gets saved as I read many posts that sent me in the wrong direction in other threads.

I been REALLY busy and have not had the chance to write it up and it will take a while.

If your reading this and are in the middle of this nightmare; and I have not published the step by step yet - you have my permission to send me a private email. Include your name and number and when it is ok to call as that may be the fastest way to help you.

If your reading this and wondering why I wrote REFUND.
It says REFUND because I will be presenting information that may prove Mercedes knew about a flaw. And that this flaw which they did correct LATER would have prevented damage to our hydraulics.
If you would like me to keep you informed of any refunds (Past, Present, or Future) send me your contact information and approximately how much you spent on this needless repair and I will keep you notified.
(I HIGHLY DOUBT THIS IS A REFUND THAT WILL OCCUR BY MERCEDES LOOKING FOR PEOPLE WHO HAVE HAD TO PAY FOR THIS REPAIR)

 

I had the rebuild done by tophydraulics and did the reinstall. 30 hrs later success!!!!!

Seriously, I now could do it in under 3 hours. But it did take me 30 hours to fix. The first 10 I did not know what I was looking for and took apart way more than I needed too. But that only helped me later when things got confusing.

I took ABOUT 20 photos. There is as many steps to this as.... I don't know but lets say 40 plus. If you follow every step, it's as hard as baking a cake.

But it can get really crazy. If the top gets out of sync with the sensors, you could get really frustrated!

There are times to go at it from the top and times from the trunk. Times when things need to be clicked locked (3 of them) and times not.

Any way. I will gladly share this info for free. You should have seen some of my photos with text in previous posts. This is what I will do with each step.

I just want to make sure it gets saved as I read many posts that sent me in the wrong direction in other threads.

I been REALLY busy and have not had the chance to write it up and it will take a while.

If your reading this and are in the middle of this nightmare; and I have not published the step by step yet - you have my permission to send me a private email. Include your name and number and when it is ok to call as that may be the fastest way to help you.

If your reading this and wondering why I wrote REFUND.
It says REFUND because I will be presenting information that may prove Mercedes knew about a flaw. And that this flaw which they did correct LATER would have prevented damage to our hydraulics.
If you would like me to keep you informed of any refunds (Past, Present, or Future) send me your contact information and approximately how much you spent on this needless repair and I will keep you notified.
(I HIGHLY DOUBT THIS IS A REFUND THAT WILL OCCUR BY MERCEDES LOOKING FOR PEOPLE WHO HAVE HAD TO PAY FOR THIS REPAIR)

 

Hey, Luckie - I have a very similar problem -- @#$% Roll Bar won't go down and something behind the driver's side headrest clicks about every 15 seconds... confounding.
In any case, what did TH rebuild for you -- the pump motor? And how did you get the @#$% Roll Bar to go down? Thanks man.

 

Check if there is oil in pump Hhdiraulit

 

good evening all for some times over copule of 6 months my clk 320 roof refused to open even all d bottons for both the seat and head are not working some times if i leave the car in the sun the glasses will not open until i will have to remove the battery head and put it back what do i do

 

good day all i have tried ur suggestion d same problems persist

 

pls advice what i should do about this problems

 

good day.
Roof not opening all control buttons not working AC not working glasses not wind down except i remove d battery and replace then d glasses can wind down after some times it cant wind but d front door glasses can wind up and down with the key this clk 320 is giving me a serious problems.
pls advice for a solution .
thank you.

ehis deba

 

Hi

My hood stuck open last week. I followed Klaus' excellent instructions and stripped down the boot (or trunk). I discovered the relay was burnt out and replaced it. Following instructions, after replacement I tested it - nothing! My wife suggested that I manually lock down the hood cover and refit the rear window to its closed position i.e. set the hood to its original position. To my chagrin, after carrying out these operations, the hood worked perfectly! These steps were not included in Klaus' instructions.

MORAL OF THE STORY - Listen to the wife (occasionaly).

An aside to this tale is that when I purchased the car, the rear headrests/roll bars only operate when switched by the dash mounted switch. Since repalacing the relay the headrests/roll bars operate automatically when the hood mechanism is operated. Anybody have any ideas why this should be so?

Austinat

 

Austinat,

congrats on getting the top working again! I don't own a CLK, but have been told that the owner's manual describes a procedure where manually moving and latching the top "reteaches" the soft top controller that all is well again. This probably applies when the controller has accumulated error codes before.

Replacing the relay should not make a difference with respect to roll bars moving automatically with the top, unless there was a problem with the controller that has resolved itself.

Some relays simply fail with time, and others fail because the electric motor on the pump is drawing more current than it used to. Keep an eye on the system - if you find it slowing down, then the pump motor may be on its way out. Don't mean to scare you, just want you to be alert about the system for a while.

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/23-w208-clk
http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/en/w...ulic-pump.html



Component locations of your cabriolet hydraulics

 

Austinat.......just to add to the salient comments and assistance that Klaus always provides......

In regard to your question regarding the roll bar system still not operating properly.

In the event that either the roll bar, soft top cover or rear bow lock did not reset/synchronize properly, during normal operation (e.g. often caused by a power interruption during operation, which may be a result of your faulty motor relay), MB provided for a subsequent locking procedure.

I have posted the theory and details on the procedure numerous times, but not sure if ever on this forum (e.g. which prohibits any subsequent posting of the same material) . I will try to include the information in this post.

That said, basically, by holding down the main console switch, as described in the instructions, the hydraulic pump re-activates and provides the roll bar, top cover and rear bow lock systems a second chance to lock/synchronize properly.

However, as your wife suggested, operating the roof manually can also lock/unlock the power roof cover and rear bow (e.g. typically this is only required upon a power failure while operating the roof), however it does not reset the roll bar system.

In my experience as both a MB cabrio owner and electrical engineer, the power roof is 30A fused and the relay has been an ubiquitous point of failure. In addition to the relay contacts making an electrical-mechanical contact with that amount of current (e.g. which can present an potential arc welding experience and likely to burn out your pump motor), more than likely, the mechanical contact bounce, over time, causes contact degradation (a.k.a. pitting), which adds significant resistance upon contact closure, which prohibits the necessary current flow to operate the pump.

Glad to hear that you have made much progress and hopefully, the subsequent power roof operation procedure, will return your roll bar system to operating properly.

Let us know.

 

To klaus and others,

I bought my 2000 CLK 320 THREE MONTHS AGO USED as a retirement present to myself. I am 71 and former military having served during the Vietnam era. THE TOP WORKED FINE WITH A LITTLE HELP. I KNEW THE CABLE CONNECTING THE FRONT OF THE TOP TO THE REAR WERE BROKEN BUT IT WORKED FINE.

Then it started to hang up. The top came all the way up but the rear window and cover didn't work.

Now it is in the down position with cover over it but unlocked. It will do nothing.

I brought it to a mechanic who said it is a big job. He said the top needed to be removed and two or more of the hydraulics needed replacing.

Concerned about the cost of having this fixed.

John

 

Hello John,

happy retirement, and welcome to the forum! It's a good thing you found this forum - you will probably save a lot of money. Obviously, you need to get the steel cables fixed, but that doesn't explain the failure you are describing.

Let's see if your problem is electrical or hydraulic. If your mechanic was able to give you an exact diagnosis already, then please share it with us. Otherwise, let's start out by checking the hydraulic fluid level in the pump. If the fluid level is normal, then you have an electrical problem (I am throwing the pump motor into the electrical category this time).

Page 4 of the following DIY instructions shows you how to check the fluid level in the pump: http://www.tophydraulicsinc.com/W208...eplacement.pdf

Klaus

www.tophydraulicsinc.com

 

Hi John

I also bought my CLK as a present to myself. I have never before owned a ragtop and had no idea how the hood worked.

When my top failed, I looked at Klaus's excellent instructions and followed them, with success. Had there been a failure other than the relay I would have been able to fix it by following the instructions provided by Klaus. Therefore, I do not see how you cannot fix it yourself.

I discovered there is a logical procedure to follow - I followed it and managed to fix my hood at a cost of about £4 ($6), but spent about 4 hours doing the job.

If, like me, you are reasonably fit (I am 70) and have time to spare, I would recommend you go down the do-it-yourself route. What do you have to lose? At least you will take things off that you would otherwise have to pay a mechanic to take off, so you should save some money even if you cannot fix it. There is also a mass of information on this forum and other similar forums to help you if necessary. I say go for it!

Bear in mind the car is from Europe and all spanner sizes are metric not A/F, therefore you may need to buy some new spanners - I find these reasonably cheap.

Good luck.

Austinat

 

check the most obvious first, which are the fuses (make sure you find all the fuses for the roof as sometimes there are fuses that control more than one piece of equipment). the clicking from the roll bar swith is the relay opening and closing, so that systems fuse is good which leads me to believe the motor is the issue.. unfortunately the only way to find your problems is to do some diagnostic work that can be expensive in a shop (electrical diagnosis is always lengthy and costly). Buy a Haynes manual and follow the schematics for wiring.. check all the connections for corrosion and fusible links that are soft (which indicates failure).. use a continuity tester and touch the probes to each side of the link.. if you get a tone then the link is good. I hope this helps!

 

OK….the fluid level is down to the 2nd line…??