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So relieved. He drove at 4 PM in Thursday rush hour traffic, not fun. The swap only took 10 minutes or so, I double and triple checked it. Was really worried that he would drive 2 hrs home and call and say it didn't work at all.
But every one of these I have done before has worked perfectly, as long as the red lights blink when the buttons are pushed.
Was cooking food when the phone call came. The guy had been pretty calm and reserved when I met him, but right away I could hear happiness in his voice. Very grateful, his $500 problem had gone away and he could drive his Benz again.
I am going to do a few more of these for free but eventually am planning to start an Ebay biz, there was a guy doing it in US but he quit. I don't have a auto repair shop or a locksmith service, I actually do computer work, hence the hot air station to move EEPROM chips.
Ideal candidate are keys that are completely or partially broken, sitting in a drawer. I have attached a pic of his old dead key next to the one I made for him from a used Ebay Chrome key. His buttons all had holes and cracks, only a matter of time until some water/soda/cat pee/coffee got in and had him towing the CL500 to the Stealership for a large bill.
Would love to have a relationship with Indies in LA. I imagine they get asked quite often about broken keys and most are likely not to do fine electrical work. Or maybe they do, I am just guessing.
I'll let you in on some things I figured out that nobody ever shares. (Pretty sure various locksmiths have got this market cornered)
"NKLG" means "Non Keyless Go" and "KLG" is "Keyless Go.
But the truly useful thing to know is the number "49031"
Usually go for $50+, you might get lucky and find one cheaper but make sure it is in nice shape. Getting it for $20 but having it worn smooth with holes and cracks isn't going to be worth it.
The nice ones I bought in 2012 still look great, these hold up much better than the plastic. Look better and last longer.
I'll let you in on some things I figured out that nobody ever shares. (Pretty sure various locksmiths have got this market cornered)
"NKLG" means "Non Keyless Go" and "KLG" is "Keyless Go.
But the truly useful thing to know is the number "49031"
Usually go for $50+, you might get lucky and find one cheaper but make sure it is in nice shape. Getting it for $20 but having it worn smooth with holes and cracks isn't going to be worth it.
The nice ones I bought in 2012 still look great, these hold up much better than the plastic. Look better and last longer.
Can the chrome key with KLG be purchased for the 2004 cl55? I ordered one from the dealer and asked multiple times if it was the new chrome style which he assured me multiple times it was and when it arrived it was not. I was mad, of course, and he then told me that the chrome one was not available for my car. This seems odd to me and i would just like to get some clarification.
Welp I did it and now I get no power to the new chrome key... all I did was swap the chips and make sure the orientation was right. Before swapping the chips I know it atleast got power because the red light would flicker when i pushed buttons.
[QUOTE=dark knight;4590019]This DIY is to swap the ROM chip from the old plastic key to the new style chrome key, the result is a functional chrome key that will take place of the old key; you will not gain an additional key.
The key I use is from the 2006-2009 models with the round panic button. Ebay keys will work, just need to ask the seller if the key was tested and working, most of the ebay keys have cracks on the button, so ask and pay close attention to the pictures.
WARNING!!!!!! Do this at your own risk, not recommended if you have only one key and/or not have the proper tools and skills.
The procedure is as followed:
1. Open up your old key just as you would when you replace the batteries, do the same thing with the new chrome key, they are built the same way.
2. Pull out the PCB from the casing. On the old key, the board comes out easily by tapping the casing on your hand as you would do with a ketchup bottle. For the new chrome key, use a needle nose pliers grab on to the white plastic part and pull the board out.
3. Locate and remove the 30 pin ICs both PCBs, they look identical so make sure you mark the working IC from the old key. This is where skills and proper equipments are critical, you must not damage the boards or the chips. Also note the polarity/orientation of the IC, can be identified by a dot at one of the corners.
4. Install the old chip on the new board, make sure the chip is orientated correctly or it will not function, again special skill is required.
5. Clean up with electronics cleaner and dry your board completely with a hair dryer. Don't worry, you will not burn the board as long as you keep the hair dryer at least 8 inches from the board.
6. Reassemble and enjoy your new shiny chrome key.
Here is a picture showing which IC is to be swapped.
ATTENTION !!!! DO NOT BUY THE 2010 NEW STYLE KEY.
I have an update regarding the new 2010 and up key style with the triangular panic button.
I open one up today and was very disappointed as there is no interchangeable chip in this key to match up with the old key.
Apparently, MB had upgraded the PCB configuration, it is much simpler now with NO ROM chip that I can see.
Also, the casing is glued together.. If I want to swap the rom chip from the old style board to the same old style board is it still the same procedure? Just removing one rom chip and transferring it to the other board which is the same old style board?
Thanks OP for posting about this upgrade. I am hoping to actually save my key's board chips to do the upgrade since there is a broken component on the board.
MacVidMB-V8 I am hoping you could help me out this; I'm local to you. I've attached photos of the horrible fate my key has met. And clearly my soldering skills are not even close to micro-soldering.
I just wanted to update the rest of the forum members that I did get into contact with MacVidMB-V8 and after confirming that I had the correct key for a swap, he graciously let me drop by today to have my key chip switched over to an upgraded key fob. Fortunately he had a spare chrome key fob w/ a fresh uncut key on hand so I did not have to wait to order one to be shipped to me. As you guys can see by my photos in my last post, I was lucky to have the broken key work just enough to get me to his place with a quick electrical tape job (but I wouldn't advise anyone else to try that or you may end up stranded midway to your destination).
I was certainly not too happy with the ridiculously quoted $400 LA stealership prices for another key so finding this forum and MacVidMB-V8's posts offered a glimmer of hope. Even at a slightly lower price, IMO paying MB that much seems unreasonable for a used car that is valued at barely $10k.
Man, the key fobs are really a night and day difference. Even before the key broke, the old one had a cheesy lightweight plastic cheap feel to it and the new one has a nice solid build heft to it.
His handiwork is really top notch (pics of the old & new attached). If you are looking for a repair or a chrome key upgrade, I would not hesitate to PM him for help.
I am going to sleep better tonight getting to tick this problem off the list. Thanks again OP and MacVidMB-V8!
For those that are interested in a diy chip swap, you can use a 75 to 150 watt small (non-flood)halogen light bulb. You might even be able to use a regular 100 watt incandesent bulb. It's probably a better idea than hot air in this case. A soldering iron is possible, but much more of a pita than a bulb. Just set the bulb as close to the ic as you can. The board may steam smoke a little, but its normal. You really should use kapton tape or carefully lined aluminum foil to shield the areas surrounding the ic. Preferably use some flux on the ic solder joints prior to heating, but not neccessary. You really should clamp the board in place horizontally prior to heating. Very carefully, so as not to disturb the surrounding components, remove the chip with tweezers as soon as the solder melts ALL THE WAY in ten minutes or so. You can nudge the ic to make sure that the solder is melted before attempting removal. Lift straight up and take care not to bend the pins when removing. You don't need to add solder to re-install the replacement chip. Just line it up and reheat until it melts and settles in.
You might want to practice on an old circuit board first. These can be sourced from just about any electronics, with old/unused remote controls being the most convenient.
All you have to do is to buy a Mercedes facelift chrome smart key with the electronics inside
Take out the 30 pin chip from the electronics of the new key and replace it with the 30 pin chip from your own old key?
The 30 pin chip shown on the picture with a white arrow
One more question i must ask do you get the facelift, chrome Mercedes key without the panic button?
If that is the key you have, you need to read the thread more carefully, and pay extra attention to details in the pix
Also note "take out" and "replace" are soldering operations. Breaking one of the 30 pins renders key useless and requires a $350 replacement. Not to be done lightly.
Last edited by MacVidMB-V8; 09-17-2017 at 03:43 AM.
So relieved. He drove at 4 PM in Thursday rush hour traffic, not fun. The swap only took 10 minutes or so, I double and triple checked it. Was really worried that he would drive 2 hrs home and call and say it didn't work at all.
But every one of these I have done before has worked perfectly, as long as the red lights blink when the buttons are pushed.
Was cooking food when the phone call came. The guy had been pretty calm and reserved when I met him, but right away I could hear happiness in his voice. Very grateful, his $500 problem had gone away and he could drive his Benz again.
I am going to do a few more of these for free but eventually am planning to start an Ebay biz, there was a guy doing it in US but he quit. I don't have a auto repair shop or a locksmith service, I actually do computer work, hence the hot air station to move EEPROM chips.
Ideal candidate are keys that are completely or partially broken, sitting in a drawer. I have attached a pic of his old dead key next to the one I made for him from a used Ebay Chrome key. His buttons all had holes and cracks, only a matter of time until some water/soda/cat pee/coffee got in and had him towing the CL500 to the Stealership for a large bill.
Would love to have a relationship with Indies in LA. I imagine they get asked quite often about broken keys and most are likely not to do fine electrical work. Or maybe they do, I am just guessing.
So, who is next?
I would like to be next. I have the two keys needed. Mine which will not work and one I got off eBay that I was told works. The red lights come on with the eBay key. Both keys are the black style. Can you swap my chips?
Thanks, Scott Fisher
I'm about to undergo this swap myself! Glad members like MacVidMB-V8 are offering their soldering skills to the forum members. If anyone is close to SC and needs this done I have 10+ years of micro-soldering experience and overall micro electronics experience. If anyone would like this swap done, please feel free to reach out to me.
I'm about to undergo this swap myself! Glad members like MacVidMB-V8 are offering their soldering skills to the forum members. If anyone is close to SC and needs this done I have 10+ years of micro-soldering experience and overall micro electronics experience. If anyone would like this swap done, please feel free to reach out to me.
I still need this done. I have all necessary parts. I'e sent them too two computer places and on tv place and they all said it' too small. How do I get a hold of You? I don' know how to find email addresses on the site. Maybe you can email me? Am I allowed to post my email?
350 SL, R230 - 300 SL, R129 - 1964 Corvette Sting Ray Sport Coupe - Porsche 911 Twin Turbo (sold)
About frequencies for smart keys.
I can buy a new unused and uncoded Mercedes smart key for my SL, R230. The manufacturer of the key is NEC ( i think)
Since my car is European spec i suppose that i should buy the 433 MHZ smart key?
The US smart keys transit/receive on 315 MHZ i think
Any here know if i am correct about the European and US frequencies?
I phoned the Mercedes dealership i use and asked if they could code a smart key and they said that they could not because all of the keys they supplied was ready coded when they was shipped from Mercedes, Germany
But one Mercedes dealer i phoned said that they could code the smart key using the Mercedes diagnose reader/tool
2003 W211 Avantgarde (Sport), 2007 E550 Sport package
Did you do this operation on a keyless go fob? I have a KG fob that has a damaged inductor and I can't seem to identify it. It's the larger round device in the second picture in post 34 above.
12-04-2015, 01:18 AM
