rollingtones

As a professional installer, I have developed an easy way to upgrade your head unit (radio) in the 1998-2005 ML (W163). These instructions assume your ML has the Bose system. First, some facts:

1. Modern head units are rated at the CEA2006 (Consumer Electronics Association) spec for power output, which is the rated power fed to the speakers at 1% THD (Total Harmonic Distortion). For the layman, that means a clean power level at which it still sounds decent, not distorted.

2. These replacement aftermarket radios develop anywhere from 16 to 19 watts per channel (4 channels) at this clean CEA2006 spec. Unless you are a true audiophile, that is actually very good power output for most people. Later on, I will tell you how to get a clean 45 watts per channel for only another $120.

3. The old Bose amp puts out less than this. Thanks to miniaturization and the economies of scale, Japanese radio companies (I like Kenwood, Pioneer and JVC) have lowered their prices and boosted features and power output on al head units.

4. So if you have any problems at all with your old, tired Benz radio, now is a great time to get modern features such as Bluetooth telephony, Pandora and other streaming music services, iPhone integration, etc. You can of course even get GPS in these radios.

OK, since I cannot figure out how to easily add photos to this post, and I have many clear photos, just go to my facebook page. It's all quite clear there: facebook.com/RollingTonesUpgrades

Look for the posting titled "Do it Yourself Radio Upgrade for the 1998-2005 Mercedes-Benz ML"

Thanks!

rollingtones

Do-It-Yourself Radio Upgrade for 1998-2005 Mercedes-Benz ML.

I have an easy way to upgrade your head unit (radio) in the 1998-2005 ML (W163). These instructions assume your ML has the Bose system.

This is for those who are not experts, and would like to do this themselves. Only ordinary hand tools are needed, except for the German radio removal tools, which are available locally.

First, some facts:

1. Modern head units are rated at the CEA2006 (Consumer Electronics Association) spec for power output, which is the rated power fed to the speakers at 1% THD (Total Harmonic Distortion). For the layman, that means a clean power level at which it still sounds decent, not distorted.

2. These aftermarket radios develop anywhere from 16 to 19 watts per channel (4 channels) at this clean CEA2006 spec. Unless you are a true audiophile, that is actually very good power output for most people. Later on, I will tell you how to get a clean 45 watts per channel for only another $120.

3. The old Bose amp puts out less than 9 watts per channel. Thanks to miniaturization and the economies of scale, Japanese radio companies (I like Kenwood, Pioneer and JVC) have lowered their prices and boosted features and power output on all head units.

4. So if you have any problems at all with your old, tired Benz radio, now is a great time to get modern features such as Bluetooth telephony, Pandora and other streaming music services, iPhone integration, etc. You can of course even get GPS in these radios.

OK, here goes:

First, an overview. You will be removing the old radio and the Bose amplifier, wiring the new radio wiring harness into the factory wiring, and installing peripherals such as the USB jack into the center console, and the Bluetooth handsfree MIC (microphone) into the headliner. And if you have selected a GPS radio, you will be installing the GPS antenna.

You will also install the outer cage furnished with the new radio into the radio opening, which will require a slight trimming of a couple of plastic rails.

And you will mount the inner radio sleeve parts to the new radio. Refer to the photos - there is a lot of info in them.

1. Power up your old radio and remove any CDs or cassette tapes in it. Using (2) German radio removal tools, slide these into the removal slots on your old radio and pull it out of the radio opening. The hook-like part of the tool faces in. See the photos for a depiction of these tools. Even Auto Zone and O'Reilly's Auto Parts have these.

2. Unplug all cables: the antenna cable, the GPS antenna cable (if present) and the wiring connector. Use a hand towel under the removed radio so you won't add any more scratches to your interior.

3. Set the parking brake firmly. Under the driver's dash, above the driver's left toe, find the Bose amplifier. It has a fairly large connector on it and heavy cooling fins. Some of those wires will be twisted pairs, which are the wires going to the speakers. You need these wires. Unscrew (1) 10mm screw and unplug the connector, then remove the Bose amp for good.

4. Pull the wiring harness down and to the right. This harness is clipped to the vehicle up high over the accelerator pedal. Be careful not to dislodge any other connectors - there is a transmission connector up there that can be disconnected if you are not careful. Use a flashlight. If you unclip the Bose harness and pull it down, you will have an easier time making your speaker connections from the new radio.

5. Now leaving that area alone for the time being, we will be making our radio connections at the radio opening. There are only (4) wires you will be connecting to. The photos tell it all.

Please see the post dated 15 April 2014 for a detailed photo explaining these connections. WAGO 222 connectors work great for this job. The only tool you need are wire strippers, or some other tool which will remove the insulation without nicking the copper strands.

Permanently connect the (4) wires (see photos) from the new radio to the car harness. I recommend soldering and heat-shrinking if you know how. However, if you do not know how to solder, these WAGO 222 connectors are really good for this application.

Pull off the German cloth tape and use quite a bit of alcohol and a shop towel to clean the sticky residue off the Mercedes-Benz harness before working.

6. The Pop-Rivet technique for securing the radio sleeve is quite solid and lets the radio slide in without interference, which could happen if screws were used. Use Pop rivets on the top and bottom plates. There is a gap on the side plates which is too large for rivets to work.

6. Use a 24 inch length of the Install Bay Quick Cable speaker wire harness and connect it to all (4) high-power speaker outputs from the new head unit harness at the radio opening. The blue wire is not used and can be cut off at each end.

Run this cable down and to the left, to be connected to the Bose harness. Let it rest down near the accelerator pedal for now.

7. Follow the photos to see how to install the outboard Bluetooth handsfree MIC (microphone). Use small pieces of 1 inch wide Gorilla Tape black duct tape to secure the MIC cable to the actual A-pillar so that it won't be damaged by clips when re-installing the A-pillar trim. Note: A-pillar = "windshield pillar"

8. Sit sideways on your knees in the driver's seat and face to the right. You will now remove the center console door using the photos as a guide. You need a Torx 15 screwdriver bit. Remove (2) plastic trim buttons from the bottom of the storage area using a small 90 degree pick tool and remove this pocket.

9. Drill a 3/4 inch hole with a Unibit and install the USB cable from the new radio. Do not reassemble the center console pocket and door just yet.

10. Move the driver's seat all the way forward and crouching behind the driver's area, drop the USB cable down between the carpet and the left vertical wall of the center console. Run this cable forward and ultimately into the radio opening.

11. Referring to the photos, make your high-output speaker wire connections from the Install Bay Quick Cable extended radio wiring harness to the Bose harness which should be laying on the floor near the gas pedal. Secure this new harness up over the gas pedal with wire ties. Use black wire ties. White or natural-colored ones will fail over time.

You can look up the factory speaker wire color codes on the internet.

Note: the pair of speaker wires going to the small subwoofer under the driver's seat can be powered by Channel 1 from the head unit (left front = WT (White) and WT/BK (White with Black Stripe). That is why the Wago 222 connectors are perfect - they allow you to connect three wires safely.

In other words, the left front output from the new head unit can drive the subwoofer as well as the left front door speaker. These new head units have plenty of power to handle it.

12. This completes the installation, after you test everything. The final step is to slide the new radio in and mount it.

13. For those who want more power: get yourself an Alpine Power Pack. This amp delivers 45 watts per channel into 4 channels. It can be installed inside the radio cavity.

jbondox

I would think with going out of your way to do a MB, regardless if it is an old MB such as the ML, that you would solder the wires instead of using those connectors. Regardless of the quality of the connectors, it just makes the install second rate if someone was to go behind your work to service the vehicle. Matco and Snapon both have portable butane solder irons. I wouldnt recommend anything Alpine until the new gear comes out in June Makes the current alpine stuff antique. i like to add the Alpine PDX to these and run a sub off it also, makes for a nice complete system.

Glad someone else uses the pop rivits also! not too many people figure it out especially in the 164 platforms when replacing the COMAND

rollingtones

OK, thanks for your input. I will address your points one by one. And I know you aren't familiar with my background, which is OK. I've been doing this professionally since 1975.

1. I don't "go out of my way" to work on Mercedes-Benz. Most of the cars I work on wear the three-pointed star, or the BMW roundel, or the Porsche crest, or the 4 rings of Audi.

2. This tutorial was designed specifically for do-it-yourself types who don't solder. I should have explained the target audience: those with a first-generation ML, many of which are starting to experience radio failures. This period of increased failures corresponds with the new generation of aftermarket head units with added features and more power, so it's empowering to them to be shown how to replace their own radio with ordinary tools and average level skills.

3. I use soldered connections most of the time, but there are some cases in which they are not appropriate. And yes thanks, I know about non-AC powered soldering. One of my tool cases is nothing but a big dedicated mobile soldering station. Since most of my installations are done on-site, this is vital to my work. If you want to see the soldering station I have set up, I am happy to post photos.

4. WAGO 222: I have tested these marine-rated connectors mercilessly, and have never been able to get one to fail. And the integrity of the final connection does not rely on skill or the crimp tool, since the only tool used is a wire stripper.

Poor crimps are a result of lack of training and bad crimpers. With the WAGO 222, all the person needs to do is strip off the insulation, and there is even a strip length gage marked on each connector. I first found these while retrofitting a Hinkley yacht, and they aren't known for cutting corners.

Unlike other solderless connectors, these get tighter the harder you pull on the wire. Give me your address and I will send you some free samples to test. They come in 2 to 5 wire types. As an FAA-licensed A&P Mechanic, integrity and reliability of connections is integral to what I do.

Yes, there are plenty of crappy connectors (such as Scotch Lok), but these aren't one of them. I use several types of solderless connectors as well as a lot of soldered joints, depending on the application. And I am always testing new solderless connectors as they are introduced. There are several FAA-approved solderless crimps that have been used in millions of aircraft for 30 years.

5. The serviceability of the vehicle is not impaired in any way by using these connectors. There is plenty of room for the extra space they take up in the W163 and in fact since they are removable and re-usable, it is actually easier to service if, for example, the radio had to be replaced, since you won't be working with soldered connections.

6 If someone wants to do this now, before the new Alpine gear, they will still benefit greatly from more power if they are willing to spend a bit more time and money. 45 watts per channel is plenty for non-audiophiles who started this project just because their old radio failed.

And in June I doubt very much that Alpine will introduce a Power Pack that is orders of magnitude better than the current one.

jbondox

I guess it is all in personal opinion. I have worked on a few yachts myself and have never seen any connectors used like the ones you mentioned from the factory, if I did see anything that was a crimp, it was usually aftermarket. my last was a sunseeker something very large and every wire was soldered, heat shrinked, and terminated, not to mention labeled. basically noting here that they dont use connectors like this in the build, just aftermarket.

I could care less the quality, statistics, etc... but if I am personally going to recommend an installation or a DIY instructions, I am going to show how to do it professionally as it reflects on my standards and abilities. and like most MB owners that are anti- aftermarket because of horrid stories and short cuts used by people and shops stating they are pro's, they would want it as close to factory as possible. at least the wiring.

I believe you have been doing it a long time, and have your ways, and probably give your clients first class service, so i am not questioning your abilities, just the connectors. My background is missiles, missile launchers, and nuc tomahawks, and have serviced many since 88' soooo... I know my way around electronics and wiring, and things that can cause grave bodily harm... but have never used any short cuts.

Not getting in a who's is bigger, but I too have worked on half million dollar vehicles, regularly, and I still provide the same standards used in those as I do on a $500 beater with a heater.

rollingtones

Like I said before, give me your address and I will mail you some of these so you can evaluate these connectors. You say you've never seen them.

I've never seen the Great Wall of China either, but I trust the people who tell me how big and awesome it is.

The fact that you've never worked with these new connectors is actually immaterial to this thread, which is specifically and only intended for DO-IT-YOURSELF types. Remember, these are not CRIMPS. Crimps are quite skill-dependent and tooling dependent. These are not, and that makes all the difference. The only "skill" needed is the ability to remove 1/2 an inch of insulation. They get tighter when tugged on, unlike a crimped connection, which can fail when tugged on.

And I did not design this tutorial to "reflect on my standards and abilities". Yes, I could spend all day creating posts to show people my wonderful, professional installations. This posting was not for that at all.

I would rather someone be able to replace their radio who is on a budget and enjoys the satisfaction of doing it themselves, rather than have them driving around with their old, broken radio in their ML. That's called empowering people.

Furthermore, nothing in my do-it-yourself posting encompasses "horrid stories" or "short cuts". Keep in mind, this tutorial is NOT about me "providing the same standards" to anyone. Rather, it is INSTRUCTIONAL.

If you feel like posting an equally detailed tutorial for DO-IT-YOURSELF types on how to learn to professionally solder and heat-shrink, go right ahead. The target audience for this posting is those who only have ordinary tools found in a typical homeowner's arsenal (except the German radio removal tools, which now even O'Reilly's Auto Parts carries).

People are busy, and most won't have any desire to learn a new, intricate skill such as soldering when all they want to do is replace their broken radio. Keep in mind, owners of 1998-2005 ML's tend to be working stiffs, who appreciate being shown how to save money by doing it themselves.

Those that can afford a pro to do it, can bring it to a shop. Those that want a way to do it themselves, will enjoy learning about it from my tutorial. Please don't make me regret posting it. I am busy actually running a business, and I thought it would be nice to spread the knowledge around a bit.

If every time I post something, I get queried about soldered versus solderless connectors, from someone who has never worked with the WAGO 222 connector, then it is easier for me to just keep all my desire to teach, and my knowledge, to myself.