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Complete Windshield Wiper Diagnostics and Repair Instructions
#26
I just barely went through this issue with my 1999 C280. I would like to take a second to completely explain my experience from beginning (problem) to end (solution).
Initially, my wiper was occasionally sticking. At the time I was thinking that maybe the type of wiper that I bought from auto zone wasn't compatible or that maybe the windshield glass treatment that I was using was causing the rubber of the wiper not to slide as it normally would. Eventually the problem got worse and would completely stall. My wiper motor would continue to make noise as it attempted to force the wiper down and would eventually shut itself off. I would later have to get out of my car and reengage my wiper switch to the on and then off mode as I guided the blade back to its starting point so that it was no longer frozen in the middle of my windshield. At this point I decided that it was time to take a deeper look at what was going on with my wiper system. After reading about a million different forum posts I was able to find and create a very good path of diagnosing and fixing the problem.
***I will reference the following two links throughout. Don't worry about viewing yet. Just follow my path.
link A- http://202tech.mkosonen.com/howto/wiper.html
link B- http://members.lycos.nl/mbenz/windshield_wiper.htm
(link B actually explains another procedure but it has great pictures and directions of removing the MB wiper system as well as how to put it all back together so that it works)
First, I just want to familiarize everyone with the main parts that make up the MB wiper system. There are five main parts to the MB single wiper system.
1) First we start with the wiper arm, commonly called the windshield wiper, that everyone is familiar with.
2) Second, we move down to the mechanism that holds the wiper arm, which is technically called the Windshield Wiper Transmission but referred to as the wiper mechanism throughout the links. Strangely however, link B refers to the entire wiper system as the wiper mechanism and then later calls just the transmission the wiper system.....so keep in mind when reading (Viewable at the bottom center of your windshield and about the size of a small football.)
3) Next, we move down to the wiper linkage, which is referred to as the offset plate in link B. The wiper linkage or "offset plate" simply connects the wiper motor (#4 below) to the wiper transmission (take note, you cannot yet see this item without removal of the entire wiper system).
4) Then, we have the wiper motor, as mentioned above. The wiper motor drives the wiper linkage or "offset plate", which activates the wiper transmission, which moves the winshield wiper back and forth in order to remove snow or rain
5) Finally, we have the mounting bracket that holds the above parts 2, 3, and 4 all together and to your car.
Start here
1. It is very possible that the solution to your problem is just a quick five minute lube job of the wiper transmission. Take a look at link A for great directions and pictures of how to do this. If this is your problem then you are done.
If not....as was my case continue ahead
2. Your next problem could also have a fairly quick solution. Part # 3 above, the wiper linkage or "offset plate" connects to the wiper transmission and wiper motor by a pressed fit, secured by a nut. It is a very common occurrence that the nuts that hold the wiper linkage to the wiper motor and transmission eventually loosen and cause the linkage to slip out of correct positioning. If this happens it will cause your wiper blade to hesitate or stall because the linkage or "offset plate" has to be connected to the motor and transmission very tightly and in a marginally specific timing or position in reference to the motor and to the transmission. Take a look at link B to get an idea of how to remove the wiper system and reset the positioning of the linkage or "offset plate" in reference to the wiper transmission or "wiper mechanism" and wiper motor. But first before you do so you are going to want to pull the wiper transmission off of the wiper mounting bracket and inspect and lube the graphite gear found on the opposite side of what you lubed up in step #1. It is rare for this gear to be chewed up but if it is then you will be replacing the wiper transmission, which I have heard can cost around $ 700.00 for the OEM part and still possibly the linkage and motor
***Back to reseting and retighting the linkage "offset plate". remember that the surface of the linkage is a beveled pressed fit, so as long as the surfaces of the linkage aren't too chewed up you should be able to drive that nut on hard enough to achieve the necessary pressed fit. However, if the linkage is too chewed up from slipping for too long, you may have to buy a new linkage. The best deal that I found on this part was at http://https://www.autopartsway.com/secure/cart.cfm I think it was appx. $ 45.00 or $ 50.00
If you solved your problem here then great!! Many actually do. However, this was not the case for me. I waited too long to take these steps and eventually burned up the gears in my wiper motor. With what I know now this is how my problem slowly progressed. Initially my linkage slipped just a bit here and there so my wiper blade was hesitating occasionally until it slipped just enough to fully stall the wiper motor due to improper timing or configuration of the linkage in respect to the motor and transmission. The continual stalling of the motor leads to the gears inside of the motor burning up.... specifically the plastic or composite gear. This is typically how these wiper motors go bad. One of the gears inside is made out of a plastic looking material and it just gets chewed up when too heavy of a load is continually applied to the wiper system ie,. turning the wipers on before clearing the windshield of a nights worth of snowfall. And of course this leads to the slipping of the linkage as explained above.
3) If you are to this point then you are also replacing your motor. Ok, there is good news here however . The good news is that a generic wiper motor can be found online for a fraction of the cost. I used one made by Vemo, which actually works very well! This item costed me $ 95.00 compared to $ 300.00 plus for OEM. I purched that part from http://www.autopartswarehouse.com and the shipping was free. The other good news is that these motors can eventually wear out just from normal use. Thus by replacing it now you save yourself the headache later. Just follow the instructions from link B and you will get it.
Initially, my wiper was occasionally sticking. At the time I was thinking that maybe the type of wiper that I bought from auto zone wasn't compatible or that maybe the windshield glass treatment that I was using was causing the rubber of the wiper not to slide as it normally would. Eventually the problem got worse and would completely stall. My wiper motor would continue to make noise as it attempted to force the wiper down and would eventually shut itself off. I would later have to get out of my car and reengage my wiper switch to the on and then off mode as I guided the blade back to its starting point so that it was no longer frozen in the middle of my windshield. At this point I decided that it was time to take a deeper look at what was going on with my wiper system. After reading about a million different forum posts I was able to find and create a very good path of diagnosing and fixing the problem.
***I will reference the following two links throughout. Don't worry about viewing yet. Just follow my path.
link A- http://202tech.mkosonen.com/howto/wiper.html
link B- http://members.lycos.nl/mbenz/windshield_wiper.htm
(link B actually explains another procedure but it has great pictures and directions of removing the MB wiper system as well as how to put it all back together so that it works)
First, I just want to familiarize everyone with the main parts that make up the MB wiper system. There are five main parts to the MB single wiper system.
1) First we start with the wiper arm, commonly called the windshield wiper, that everyone is familiar with.
2) Second, we move down to the mechanism that holds the wiper arm, which is technically called the Windshield Wiper Transmission but referred to as the wiper mechanism throughout the links. Strangely however, link B refers to the entire wiper system as the wiper mechanism and then later calls just the transmission the wiper system.....so keep in mind when reading (Viewable at the bottom center of your windshield and about the size of a small football.)
3) Next, we move down to the wiper linkage, which is referred to as the offset plate in link B. The wiper linkage or "offset plate" simply connects the wiper motor (#4 below) to the wiper transmission (take note, you cannot yet see this item without removal of the entire wiper system).
4) Then, we have the wiper motor, as mentioned above. The wiper motor drives the wiper linkage or "offset plate", which activates the wiper transmission, which moves the winshield wiper back and forth in order to remove snow or rain
5) Finally, we have the mounting bracket that holds the above parts 2, 3, and 4 all together and to your car.
Start here
1. It is very possible that the solution to your problem is just a quick five minute lube job of the wiper transmission. Take a look at link A for great directions and pictures of how to do this. If this is your problem then you are done.
If not....as was my case continue ahead
2. Your next problem could also have a fairly quick solution. Part # 3 above, the wiper linkage or "offset plate" connects to the wiper transmission and wiper motor by a pressed fit, secured by a nut. It is a very common occurrence that the nuts that hold the wiper linkage to the wiper motor and transmission eventually loosen and cause the linkage to slip out of correct positioning. If this happens it will cause your wiper blade to hesitate or stall because the linkage or "offset plate" has to be connected to the motor and transmission very tightly and in a marginally specific timing or position in reference to the motor and to the transmission. Take a look at link B to get an idea of how to remove the wiper system and reset the positioning of the linkage or "offset plate" in reference to the wiper transmission or "wiper mechanism" and wiper motor. But first before you do so you are going to want to pull the wiper transmission off of the wiper mounting bracket and inspect and lube the graphite gear found on the opposite side of what you lubed up in step #1. It is rare for this gear to be chewed up but if it is then you will be replacing the wiper transmission, which I have heard can cost around $ 700.00 for the OEM part and still possibly the linkage and motor
***Back to reseting and retighting the linkage "offset plate". remember that the surface of the linkage is a beveled pressed fit, so as long as the surfaces of the linkage aren't too chewed up you should be able to drive that nut on hard enough to achieve the necessary pressed fit. However, if the linkage is too chewed up from slipping for too long, you may have to buy a new linkage. The best deal that I found on this part was at http://https://www.autopartsway.com/secure/cart.cfm I think it was appx. $ 45.00 or $ 50.00
If you solved your problem here then great!! Many actually do. However, this was not the case for me. I waited too long to take these steps and eventually burned up the gears in my wiper motor. With what I know now this is how my problem slowly progressed. Initially my linkage slipped just a bit here and there so my wiper blade was hesitating occasionally until it slipped just enough to fully stall the wiper motor due to improper timing or configuration of the linkage in respect to the motor and transmission. The continual stalling of the motor leads to the gears inside of the motor burning up.... specifically the plastic or composite gear. This is typically how these wiper motors go bad. One of the gears inside is made out of a plastic looking material and it just gets chewed up when too heavy of a load is continually applied to the wiper system ie,. turning the wipers on before clearing the windshield of a nights worth of snowfall. And of course this leads to the slipping of the linkage as explained above.
3) If you are to this point then you are also replacing your motor. Ok, there is good news here however . The good news is that a generic wiper motor can be found online for a fraction of the cost. I used one made by Vemo, which actually works very well! This item costed me $ 95.00 compared to $ 300.00 plus for OEM. I purched that part from http://www.autopartswarehouse.com and the shipping was free. The other good news is that these motors can eventually wear out just from normal use. Thus by replacing it now you save yourself the headache later. Just follow the instructions from link B and you will get it.
should i just remove the whole assem. and check everything out and lube it up?
#27
Lube It With Lithium Grease (Spray Can or Tube)
I would follow the initial steps for lubricating and see how it goes. The lube portion is the easiest and least time-consuming. The mounting nut referred to several times in the links may be loose and that could be your problem. Good luck!
#30
I just bought a 1995 C280 and I have never owned a Mercedes. I am 43 and found out in July that I have a rare cancer. My 16 year old daughter totaled my only vehicle 8 days after getting her licenses and the little boy I took custody of when he was 3 months old had to have heart surgery in June. I purchased this car with the last bit of money I had and the windshield wiper doesn't work and the rear windows won't roll down. I'm scared because its my only means of transportation to get myself and my son to our doctor appointments. He was born addicted to drugs and his bio parents tried to sell him for $1500.00 for drugs. He deserves better! Please tell me how to fix these issues. I am broke and terrified!
#31
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it's not that difficult to fix this, most of this time, replacing the motor fixes everything. Also I recommend using bosch evolution blades. The regular two blade wipers created more drag on the windshield mechanism and motor which eventually strips the gear inside the motor.
What's wrong with you car?
Please tell me how to fix these issues. I am broke and terrified!
Last edited by YNVDIZW124; 12-09-2012 at 01:08 PM.
#32
Look! I'm glad you find my real life amusing! Thank you for your reply, but what seems easy and cheap fix for one may be total devastation for another. I literally had $3700.00 to my name when I bought this car. And can't afford to pay a fortune to fix. Wasn't asking for anything except directions on the fastest, cheapest, easiest fix. Sorry if I offended you!
Last edited by JaKristan24; 12-09-2012 at 12:51 PM. Reason: Don't want to be confrontational
#33
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You still haven't said what's wrong with your car? a wiper motor is around $90-100.
you need a flat screw driver, a wrench, and correct socket with extension to unbolt the entire assembly. Once the assembly is off the car you can service it and/or change the motor.
you need a flat screw driver, a wrench, and correct socket with extension to unbolt the entire assembly. Once the assembly is off the car you can service it and/or change the motor.
#34
I don't know what's wrong with it. I am a woman, I know nothing about cars. However, a friend found some switches of some kind that the previous owner has added to the car under the drivers side dash. He said, it was unhooked and it appears that they have already tested to try to find out why the wiper doesn't work. He found some holes under the windshield wiper. Whatever that means! The wiper doesn't do anything and the back windows won't roll down. And now the fan has stopped blowing heat and we can't defrost the windshield! Help!
#35
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First thing you need to do is look for a repair manual. They sell them at auto parts stores, they come with the wiring diagram for your car. Those switches might be for an alarm or something else but I doubt it's for the wiper.
Both rear windows won't go down? this could be the window switches or you need to check for blown fuses.
Does the fan blow air at all?
Both rear windows won't go down? this could be the window switches or you need to check for blown fuses.
Does the fan blow air at all?
#36
OK, thank you! I will try to find a repair manual, and both back windows won't roll down. They make a noise but won't go down. And the fan doesn't blow at all! I just bought the car Friday night and it was working then, but last night it stopped I had to buy paper towels to keep wiping the window clean so I could see
#37
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OK, thank you! I will try to find a repair manual, and both back windows won't roll down. They make a noise but won't go down. And the fan doesn't blow at all! I just bought the car Friday night and it was working then, but last night it stopped I had to buy paper towels to keep wiping the window clean so I could see
but last night it stopped I had to buy paper towels to keep wiping the window clean so I could see
#38
Thank you I will check the fuses. I have never owned a German engineered car and its all confusing. Lol! Someone told me they were durable and would last me until I can get healthy again and get to work more. LOL! Seems like mine is failing right along with me. I hope its a fuse! Thanks, ;-) I appreciate your expertise!
#39
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They usually are, but the older models did have issues. I have a 98 with 210,000 miles and it runs like new. All they need is regular oil changes and a full service every 2-3 years. They're not that much different from a honda or toyota when it comes to troubleshooting the issues they have but it's still a 17 year old car.
On the rear windows, they might also just be stuck. Sometimes when you don't open the windows often that happens. Try to have someone push the switch while you push it down with you hand.
On the rear windows, they might also just be stuck. Sometimes when you don't open the windows often that happens. Try to have someone push the switch while you push it down with you hand.
#40
Ok thanks! They got my windshield wiper fixed and the fan too, it was a fuse. I'm sorry about earlier I was just panicking thinking I had bought a lemon and was ripped off! I will try pushing down on the windows to see if that works.. Now that the wiper and fan works I feel much better!
#41
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I apologize about earlier, it was just hard to imagine that much bad luck for one person and thought you where "trolling" since you don't have many posts. I'm glad you got those things fixed and hope you get better.
#42
Thank you and that's okay... I know it seems for the past several months everything that could go wrong, has! But I am trying to stay positive and be thankful for what hasn't happened, but, sometimes I can't see an end to this nightmare! But thank you so much for being so helpful! Much appreciated!
#43
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1999 C280
Thanks for showing me the fix!
I was riding with my daughter today in a pretty steady rain when the wiper on her 1999 C280 quit working properly. Almost acted like it was sticking to the windshield. It would slowly push past the places where it was stuck, which are the places where the arm was extending and retracting. It would go fine on high at first, then even that didn't work. Thank goodness for a recent RainX treatment!
I found this post and gave it a lube job when we got home, and it's running fine now. I checked the transmission for roughness and noise by moving the arm across the windshield by hand and listened while it was running. Didn't feel or hear anything.
Think I'll make it a point to lube it at the beginning of winter from now on. Only took about 5 minutes and no tools.
I found this post and gave it a lube job when we got home, and it's running fine now. I checked the transmission for roughness and noise by moving the arm across the windshield by hand and listened while it was running. Didn't feel or hear anything.
Think I'll make it a point to lube it at the beginning of winter from now on. Only took about 5 minutes and no tools.
#44
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1996 C220
Tried everything, wiper still not working on intermittent, slow on fast
Hi everyone,
I've lubed the pistons, replaced the motor and even the combination relay. The fuse appears to be fine.
My wiper still doesn't work at all on intermittent, and is slow on the fast setting. If I turn it back to intermittent or the off position, the wiper will stay where it is, it won't go home.
I'm losing my mind. Any idea WHAT might be happening?
I've lubed the pistons, replaced the motor and even the combination relay. The fuse appears to be fine.
My wiper still doesn't work at all on intermittent, and is slow on the fast setting. If I turn it back to intermittent or the off position, the wiper will stay where it is, it won't go home.
I'm losing my mind. Any idea WHAT might be happening?
#45
C280 Wiper Sweep Pattern Turned Wierd?!?
Just went through the whole wiper motor replacement routine, only to discover I probably missed solving the problem that ripped up the motor to begin with. Initial failure was that the wiper failed to retract when it swept to the passenger side, and jammed into the passenger side windshield frame. After getting it loose, I took the easy out, replaced the 24" blade with a 22" one, so the arm failing to retract was no longer an issue with the shorter blade. Of course the damage had been done and a few weeks later the dreaded 12:00 position lockup and grinding gears let me know the motor was shot. After the replacement motor, the lining up of the park position, the reinstall, etc. the wiper now runs and traverses the windshield OK. The issue though, is that the wiper arm extend/retract pattern is now a kind of random thing, as if I've got a cam or gear loose that used to make that nice rectangular shaped traverse motion of the lower end of the blade, now the traverse looks a bit like a mountain range, with a vertical run to the top on the driver side, then a sort of downward angled slope as the blade heads to the passenger side, finally ending with a shorter vertical drop as it reaches fully to the passenger side. So the question is, where is the wiper arm extend/retract cam or gear set hiding, and is there an instruction video for a dummy like me to watch to see how to fix this aspect of the problem? And by the way, anyone else thinking that MB could have designed a wiper assembly that did not have quite as many quirks as this? I ran a Porsche 944 for close to 20 years, and never had a wiper motor issue. Lots of engine issues, but never a @#@$@#$@$ wiper motor/drivetrain/transmission issue. Of course any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
#47
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c 200 automatic elegance1998
missing link
Thanks for the wonderful set of instructions.
Would love to get some pics as contained in "link B"but this is unavailable.
Would appreciate any help if you could restore the link.
Would love to get some pics as contained in "link B"but this is unavailable.
Would appreciate any help if you could restore the link.
#48
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'00 C230 Kompressor
Arm
I replaced my windshield motor twice, to find out it was the arm that needed to be replaced the whooooole time . So, now I've got an aftermarket in my trunk and the original back in and working well. C'est la vie
#50
Re:
Have a look at posts #22 and #25 on this thread. edchris never said what happened in the end, but you should not be able to move the wiper arm freely by hand. It means that there is either a linkage that is now unconnected (maybe due to a nut falling off), or a gear has been completely stripped so it is offering no resistance. Looks like you are going to have to take the entire assembly out to track down what it is.
I am here because have a sticking wiper; which I am praying is a lube job.
I have a 98 C280 that I can hear the wiper motor run at all three settings but the blade does not move. I can move the blade by hand with no binding. Any solutions?
I am here because have a sticking wiper; which I am praying is a lube job.