DIY Birdseye Trim
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
DIY Birdseye Trim
The wood shifter/window switch panel in my C280 was cracked, and I really didn't want to order another one, so I decided to take matters into my own hands.
I loved the look of the birdseye trim in my W211 E500. I also love the look of the zebrano wood grain. So, the goal with this project was to emulate the color of Mercedes birdseye with the grain of zebrano.
I'm sure there are many ways to do this. I read many online discussions about different methods. I chose my method because it made sense in my head.
DISCLAIMER: You will probably mess up your trim if you attempt this. I burned through the zebrano grain in some spots, and you will most likely do the same. Perform this at your own risk.
Stuff I had on hand:
Stuff I bought:
Okay! On to the fun part.
I removed the trim piece by opening the cup holder, then just grabbing the bottom edge of the shifter panel and pulling up. There's some connectors that need to be removed before you can get the panel free from the car.
I brought the panel inside and removed all the switches. I then cleaned the panel thoroughly with APC, as that summa***** was really really dirty.
Here's the panel right when I started working on it. You can see the cracking:
Follow the directions for applying your paint stripper.
NOTE: Any ABS plastic that the paint stripper comes in contact with will dissolve, so make sure to have the piece suspended (so the stripper doesn't drip off the piece, pool underneath, and dissolve the ABS plastic mounting points).
After all the clear coat and color is removed, clean up the piece of trim with some mineral spirits, followed by some isopropyl alcohol (I probably did not need the alcohol, but I used i to remove the oiliness from the mineral spirits.
I sprayed TWO LIGHT COATS of VHT Nite Shades to get to this color. You'll be left with the color you want, but there will be no gloss. the paint will just soak into the wood.
After your color coat has dried, lightly wet sand with 800 grit to smooth out the finish. Wipe with a cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol, let dry, and get your clear coat ready. Spray 2-3 light coats for the finish pictured below. I wanted a thin layer of clear to really accentuate the wood grain. I dont like how the OEM looks like there's a piece of plastic on top of the wood.
After this, I wet sanded with 2000 grit, then used my drill to polish the piece first with the Ultimate Compound, and then with the Ultimate Polish.
I am very pleased with the results. As of right now, this is the only piece I've done. Hopefully the rest of them don't take so long, as I've now got my method down pat.
I loved the look of the birdseye trim in my W211 E500. I also love the look of the zebrano wood grain. So, the goal with this project was to emulate the color of Mercedes birdseye with the grain of zebrano.
I'm sure there are many ways to do this. I read many online discussions about different methods. I chose my method because it made sense in my head.
DISCLAIMER: You will probably mess up your trim if you attempt this. I burned through the zebrano grain in some spots, and you will most likely do the same. Perform this at your own risk.
Stuff I had on hand:
- Paint Stripper
- Drill with 3" polishing pad (I used the one from a 3M headlight restoration kit).
- Meguiar's Ultimate Compound
- Meguiar's Ultimate Polish
Stuff I bought:
- 1 can Black VHT Nite Shades. It's a translucent black paint that some folks use to smoke their tail lights.
- 1 can Rustoleum clear (make sure you get something that resists yellowing, cracking, and UV damage).
Okay! On to the fun part.
I removed the trim piece by opening the cup holder, then just grabbing the bottom edge of the shifter panel and pulling up. There's some connectors that need to be removed before you can get the panel free from the car.
I brought the panel inside and removed all the switches. I then cleaned the panel thoroughly with APC, as that summa***** was really really dirty.
Here's the panel right when I started working on it. You can see the cracking:
Follow the directions for applying your paint stripper.
NOTE: Any ABS plastic that the paint stripper comes in contact with will dissolve, so make sure to have the piece suspended (so the stripper doesn't drip off the piece, pool underneath, and dissolve the ABS plastic mounting points).
After all the clear coat and color is removed, clean up the piece of trim with some mineral spirits, followed by some isopropyl alcohol (I probably did not need the alcohol, but I used i to remove the oiliness from the mineral spirits.
I sprayed TWO LIGHT COATS of VHT Nite Shades to get to this color. You'll be left with the color you want, but there will be no gloss. the paint will just soak into the wood.
After your color coat has dried, lightly wet sand with 800 grit to smooth out the finish. Wipe with a cloth dampened with isopropyl alcohol, let dry, and get your clear coat ready. Spray 2-3 light coats for the finish pictured below. I wanted a thin layer of clear to really accentuate the wood grain. I dont like how the OEM looks like there's a piece of plastic on top of the wood.
After this, I wet sanded with 2000 grit, then used my drill to polish the piece first with the Ultimate Compound, and then with the Ultimate Polish.
I am very pleased with the results. As of right now, this is the only piece I've done. Hopefully the rest of them don't take so long, as I've now got my method down pat.
Last edited by vserduchka; 08-10-2014 at 08:59 AM.
#2
Senior Member
Very nice. Interesting animated gif at the bottom btw.
Did you try and use any type of stripper on the original finish instead of trying to sand it off? That might keep you from sanding through the veneer (I assume its veneer). You could also use a stain to darken it up rather than some sort of paint. I'm a woodworker and that is what I would try first. If you want a very glossy finish without the grain showing through, you could try one of the two part epoxy table top type finishes. That may match the original finish better, but overall your job looks good too.
Did you try and use any type of stripper on the original finish instead of trying to sand it off? That might keep you from sanding through the veneer (I assume its veneer). You could also use a stain to darken it up rather than some sort of paint. I'm a woodworker and that is what I would try first. If you want a very glossy finish without the grain showing through, you could try one of the two part epoxy table top type finishes. That may match the original finish better, but overall your job looks good too.
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Very nice. Interesting animated gif at the bottom btw.
Did you try and use any type of stripper on the original finish instead of trying to sand it off? That might keep you from sanding through the veneer (I assume its veneer). You could also use a stain to darken it up rather than some sort of paint. I'm a woodworker and that is what I would try first. If you want a very glossy finish without the grain showing through, you could try one of the two part epoxy table top type finishes. That may match the original finish better, but overall your job looks good too.
Did you try and use any type of stripper on the original finish instead of trying to sand it off? That might keep you from sanding through the veneer (I assume its veneer). You could also use a stain to darken it up rather than some sort of paint. I'm a woodworker and that is what I would try first. If you want a very glossy finish without the grain showing through, you could try one of the two part epoxy table top type finishes. That may match the original finish better, but overall your job looks good too.
Regarding the GIF- what can I say? I'm a sucker for great body lines
I'm not a woodworker, nor do I play one on TV
The only reason I chose the paint is because it was:
- Translucent
- Readily available
I like the wood grain showing through. It gives the piece a more authentic wood look and feel.
I tried 3 different stains, but the VHT lays down more evenly, and gave me exact the color I was looking for.
The finished product looks brown in my photos above, but in person it looks more black/grey. I'll take some photos next to the existing trim so you can get a better idea of the color.
Last edited by vserduchka; 08-10-2014 at 09:03 AM.
#4
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for the heads up!
I'll post pics of the finished product in a few days once it's complete.
#5
Member
That looks great! I love it when people come up with easy, but effective ways to get good results like that. I would have never thought to use VHT. I wish my trim were bad so that I could try this, lol.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
I've gone back and amended the OP.
Instead of sanding, it's way better to use a paint stripper, as it is quicker, way less messy, and you won't burn through the very thin layer of zebrano veneer.
#7
Super Member
Great write up. After owning a black/black E55 for a few years, I've become quite partial to the Birdseye Maple. I've always wished my 43 had it.
Would applying the VHT Niteshade directly over the finished surface have the same results as stripping it down and "dying" the wood?
Would applying the VHT Niteshade directly over the finished surface have the same results as stripping it down and "dying" the wood?
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#8
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Great write up. After owning a black/black E55 for a few years, I've become quite partial to the Birdseye Maple. I've always wished my 43 had it.
Would applying the VHT Niteshade directly over the finished surface have the same results as stripping it down and "dying" the wood?
Would applying the VHT Niteshade directly over the finished surface have the same results as stripping it down and "dying" the wood?
I tried 3 different stains and could not get it to look right. YMMV.
The VHT gave me the exact look I was going for, and it has held up extremely well in the south Florida sun so far.
#9
Super Member
Yeah, staining. What I'm asking, is stripping it necessary, or would the VHT without stripping achieve the same results?
#11
Super Member