Installing Front Camber/Castor Bolts & Thrust Arm Bushings (Possible DIY)
#76
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2003 C230K Coupe Orion Blue
I just lowered my front and I had an alignment done with camber bolts to the front and rear. Still pull slightly to the right. Cost me $250. Indie said Mercedes design their cars to pull slightly to the right as a safety feature. Any truth to this?
Still going to go back (for the 3rd time) tomorrow to get it going straight.
Still going to go back (for the 3rd time) tomorrow to get it going straight.
The sales guy told me not to worry a) if the car pulls to the right, and b) if the headlight cutoff is higher towards the right (also a design feature or LHD cars).
Last edited by slammer111; 04-08-2008 at 05:30 AM.
#77
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'02 CL203 M111
That's what I heard too but wasn't sure.
And for the headlight, I've heard in the new in Europe that the right headlight is aiming slightly higher than left so left won't blind the oncoming trafic.
And for the headlight, I've heard in the new in Europe that the right headlight is aiming slightly higher than left so left won't blind the oncoming trafic.
#78
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It also helps having the close curb side main beam higher to see pedestrians and possibly animals. That is why LHD and RHD cars have different headlights. Also DOT and TUV lights are built different for "sign illumination" and road construction.
But that is not what this thread is about...my yearly alignment has been spot on - MY2005 C230K built 11/30/04
Thanks for the info,
Jake
But that is not what this thread is about...my yearly alignment has been spot on - MY2005 C230K built 11/30/04
Thanks for the info,
Jake
#79
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Midnight Blue 2004.5 C230 Kompressor Sport Sedan. 2002 w210 E320, 2009 w211 E350 Sport
Most roads are designed to slope slightly down to the right, in order to prevent flooding. Best way to test out if it's pulling significantly to the right is in a flat parking lot OR in a non crowded residential street where you can stradle the car literally in the middle of the road.
#82
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Blk on Blk C240
I'll try that next..hehe
I'll tell my indy about my wallet's slim design the next time I see him. He'll get a good laugh at that.
#83
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'05 S60R, '99 A4 1.8T avant Stage 3
should i get these or the kmac kit? i'm going with coilovers but if these do a decent enough job adjusting camber then it will save $300.
#84
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Thrust Arm Bushings and Oil Smell
Replaced my thrust arm bushings and while I was under the car looked for the oil leak that was causing a burnt oil smell. Didn't find any leaks but the oil smell went away.....the smell was the silicone in the bushings that was leaking out! Now my car tracks better, the tires stopped howling, and tire wear/feathering on the edges should stop. Seems the thrust arm bushings are good for about 50K miles.
#85
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02 C320 Sedan
Replaced my thrust arm bushings and while I was under the car looked for the oil leak that was causing a burnt oil smell. Didn't find any leaks but the oil smell went away.....the smell was the silicone in the bushings that was leaking out! Now my car tracks better, the tires stopped howling, and tire wear/feathering on the edges should stop. Seems the thrust arm bushings are good for about 50K miles.
You have a picture? of this because i think my front right one is leaking something
#86
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Replaced my thrust arm bushings and while I was under the car looked for the oil leak that was causing a burnt oil smell. Didn't find any leaks but the oil smell went away.....the smell was the silicone in the bushings that was leaking out! Now my car tracks better, the tires stopped howling, and tire wear/feathering on the edges should stop. Seems the thrust arm bushings are good for about 50K miles.
Kris - there is a DIY posting showing replacement on a C240. Gives you the whole scene and what the leaks look like
#88
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I heard they were "redesigned" as well. This is my third set of bushings. The only way to tell they are bad is if they are leaking or tires wear/feather on the outer edges even after an alignment. The wear causes the tires to become noisy, best described as a "howl"....kind of like those off-road tires on trucks but not as loud.
#89
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I heard they were "redesigned" as well. This is my third set of bushings. The only way to tell they are bad is if they are leaking or tires wear/feather on the outer edges even after an alignment. The wear causes the tires to become noisy, best described as a "howl"....kind of like those off-road tires on trucks but not as loud.
#90
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1959 220S / 1979 230 G / 2002 A210 AMG / 2003 C320 SC / 2004.5 C320 SS / 2005 ML350 SE / 2008 smart
interesting...
my C320 Coupe is still under warranty.
Do you have the part #'s handy for those new "redesigned" bushings ???
will need to get those replaced sooner or later, even though I've yet to experience any tire howling or edge feathering.
Carlos
Saprissa@aol.com
my C320 Coupe is still under warranty.
Do you have the part #'s handy for those new "redesigned" bushings ???
will need to get those replaced sooner or later, even though I've yet to experience any tire howling or edge feathering.
Carlos
Saprissa@aol.com
#91
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Here we go Carlos
Part No - MA 203 333 10 14 Bearing (Benz calls them bearings)
You might need new bolts to accommodate the 3 different offsets if your car still has the factory originals. Why Benz does not fit them at build I'll never know & they are expensive. $150 for 2 bolts in RSA!!! Don't have part number for bolts. I'll take some pics of devulcanization - I still have old bushes - stole these pics from another poster a long while back for my "car" folder because they show the 3 bolt locations clearly.
Edit: See devulcanization pic attached from my car at 45,000Kms. Hit one underwater pothole at low mileage and damaged 2 tyres - rims fine - alignment in spec - might have aggravated devulcanization.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 09-21-2008 at 06:12 AM.
#92
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I don't believe there are three bolt locations. Those ridges are used to locate the bolt through the center of the bushing.
#93
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No sir - there are 3 bolt locations. I've witnessed the job being done. If you can't get alignment right in one location - you move the bolt to a new "centre" and that gives you another range of adjustment. The adjustment ranges overlap slightly. The cars come assembled with a standard bolt. To make the other range of adjustments available you require new bolts that fit any of the 3 slots - will get the Benz part number for you if you wish. When fitted to my car they cost $150 for 2. The 3 location system has been drummed into every MB Tech & alignment shop in this country. I've never found one that did not understand this.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 09-21-2008 at 04:54 PM.
#94
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I'm just a backyard mechanic (an old one though!) so I can definitely still learn something new but I think you're referring to the camber bolts. They go through the bushing on the lower control arm. Those bushings are solid rubber mounted and the different bolts give you different adjustment ranges. I had those replaced under warranty to correct a steering pulling to the side problem.
Last edited by mleskovar; 09-21-2008 at 05:15 PM.
#95
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I'm just a backyard mechanic (an old one though!) so I can definitely still learn something new but I think you're referring to the camber bolts. They go through the bushing on the lower control arm. Those bushings are solid rubber mounted and the different bolts give you different adjustment ranges. I had those replaced under warranty to correct a steering pulling to the side problem.
If this were not so - why not just have a round hole on the centre of the bush for a standard bolt?
Also. One wheel is set ahead of the other i.e. greater castor to offset road camber. RHD cars have the left hand front wheel set ahead of the right & LHD car are set vice versa to stop pulling.
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 09-21-2008 at 07:07 PM.
#96
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I thought the same thing when replacing them. My bad, I just researched and found the difference between castor and camber and the different bolts used to adjust them. My bolts had smooth shafts so they obviously would only fit in the middle. I was only aware of the camber adjusting bolts. Learned something new today.
Last edited by mleskovar; 09-21-2008 at 05:53 PM.
#97
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I thought the same thing when replacing them. My bad, I just researched and found the difference between castor and camber and the different bolts used to adjust them. My bolts had smooth shafts so they obviously would only fit in the middle. I was only aware of the camber adjusting bolts. Learned something new today.
mleskovar kind sir - this is not about you being wrong and me being right - It's about us all learning and benefitting. You had me doubting my sanity or comprehension for a while there. I thought we might be using different terminology for the same thing because I grew up under a British education system and frequently the Americans name things differently - you know trunk & boot, bonnet & hood, lift and elevator. I try to use American terminology on this forum because it is predominantly American. I thought camber and castor were universal. I've heard people talking about eccentric bolts on the forum, & while I know what they are, there are none, to my knowledge, in the front suspension of a W203.
Anyway, found it in my filing system finally! - A picture tells a thousand words they say - Here we go. This explains things perfectly. Note the Germans use yet more different terminology!!
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 09-21-2008 at 07:03 PM.
#98
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The first picture you posted was the one I found as well that explained it to me. After looking at it I realized how lucky I was to have the smooth shaft bolts. I could have put the fluted ones in wrong! I read on a DIY post that it was important to orient the new bushings and old bolts the same as when you removed them but couldn't figure out why Now I know. Thanks for the help.
#99
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Hmm. You guys mind just relinking to the DIY or the threads you guys found w/ the information on this? I believe I have smelled what you guys are describing before. I will get under the car + look when I get home, but my car is well over 50k and these could use a good replacing anyways.
Thanks,
Thanks,
#100
Super Moderator
The first picture you posted was the one I found as well that explained it to me. After looking at it I realized how lucky I was to have the smooth shaft bolts. I could have put the fluted ones in wrong! I read on a DIY post that it was important to orient the new bushings and old bolts the same as when you removed them but couldn't figure out why Now I know. Thanks for the help.