W203 Door Lock Pogo Fix
05-28-2007, 02:10 AM
#1
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2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
W203 Door Lock Pogo Fix
Well, I replaced the door lock solenoid today. WHEW! Not a job for the faint. That was some UGLY work. I'd rather change out a alternator!
Still have a glitch. The door operates, but the solenoid won't lock the door. Any thoughts?
(Figured it out. When I put the door together, I was testing without the door's interior, and the plastic latch piece that screws on. This kept the door pin thinking it was open, therefore the lock wouldn't operate.)
I took pics, and will write it up. Just need some time tomorrow.
FAWK!
E
Still have a glitch. The door operates, but the solenoid won't lock the door. Any thoughts?
(Figured it out. When I put the door together, I was testing without the door's interior, and the plastic latch piece that screws on. This kept the door pin thinking it was open, therefore the lock wouldn't operate.)
I took pics, and will write it up. Just need some time tomorrow.
FAWK!
E
Last edited by SeaCoupe; 05-28-2007 at 12:47 PM.
06-21-2007, 03:22 PM
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2003 C-Class Sportcoupe
Well, I replaced the door lock solenoid today. WHEW! Not a job for the faint. That was some UGLY work. I'd rather change out a alternator!
Still have a glitch. The door operates, but the solenoid won't lock the door. Any thoughts?
(Figured it out. When I put the door together, I was testing without the door's interior, and the plastic latch piece that screws on. This kept the door pin thinking it was open, therefore the lock wouldn't operate.)
I took pics, and will write it up. Just need some time tomorrow.
FAWK!
E
Still have a glitch. The door operates, but the solenoid won't lock the door. Any thoughts?
(Figured it out. When I put the door together, I was testing without the door's interior, and the plastic latch piece that screws on. This kept the door pin thinking it was open, therefore the lock wouldn't operate.)
I took pics, and will write it up. Just need some time tomorrow.
FAWK!
E
Could you post the pics please? A write up would help too. I need to fix my driverside lock mechanism. Dealer wants $500 to fix a part that costs only $86. I'll try to fix this without them.
06-21-2007, 03:36 PM
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I'll also pm you my number in case you have questions.
If you need the pop rivet gun and the rivets, you are welcome to borrow mine.
E
06-21-2007, 04:38 PM
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2003 C-Class Sportcoupe
Hey Bro, my apologies. It is fixable, but the hard part is getting the lock out of the door. Perhaps it will be easier for you, but it was ridiculous. Akin to squeezing a 5 lb salomi out of a 1 lb bag.
I'll also pm you my number in case you have questions.
If you need the pop rivet gun and the rivets, you are welcome to borrow mine.
E
I'll also pm you my number in case you have questions.
If you need the pop rivet gun and the rivets, you are welcome to borrow mine.
E
Dealing with the dealership when you have a motor swap is kind of weird. Not sure if I trust them anymore with this kind of stuff.Don't worry too much about the rivet gun. I can probably get those from Home Depot or Harbor Freight for a few dollars. I just need helpful hints to get me going.
This problem with the door lock is common on the W203, ain't it?
None of our Japanese cars have this stupid problem.
07-02-2007, 01:28 PM
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I just replaced the door lock a couple of days ago. It wasn't easy. I'm reposting the instructions I found useful. I'd advise people to use steel rivets, since aluminum rivets are more brittle, and can break. If you use aluminum rivets to hold in the airbag and the rivets break, the whole airbag assembly can explode off of the door frame and it will knock the wind out of you. You'll have to unbolt part of the window regulator in order to remove the lock mechanism. There's no other way around it.
You will need: Set of Spline screwdrivers, Flat screwdriver, Pop rivet gun, 3 small cable ties, Drill and 5 pop rivets.
1. Pull off the tweeter cover on top of door panel near front of window, no need to disconnect wire, just let it hang down.
2. Pull off SRS badge and remove the spline screw behind it.
3. remove the door latch plastic cover (1 screw)
4. At the bottom of the door pull handle next to the armrest there is an oblong slot, insert a flat screwdriver and prise the top half off, it is just clipped in. there are 2 spline screws behind it, remove them.
5. Using a plastic wedge of some sort or just by hand and starting at the lower part of the door latch, prise off the lower half of the door panel there are 6 or 7 plastic clips which hold it on, (I did this by hand and without breaking any but it may be worth purchasing a few just in case)
6. Lower the window and while pulling the panel slightly towards you, use your other hand to pull the panel upwards from the top starting at the front end, (this is quite tight, but it will come up)
7. panel is now off, pull the plug from the window switch and disconnect the cable from the door handle by opening the handle slightly and pulling up on the hook, the cable can then be removed from the door panel insert.
8. Drill out the 3 pop rivets holding the air bag and the 2 pop rivets holding the lower window strut. do not disconnect the airbag, let it hang down or tie it out of the way.
9. Remove the 3 screws holding the door latch and disconnect the wire from the panel near the front of the door. ( I actually cut the wire and pulled it through the loops to keep the original cable ties in place, when I replaced it I just used new cable ties to attach it back to the original location.)
10. You can now remove the locking mechanism by pulling it down and then towards the front by pushing back on the window strut.
Now do everything in revesre..
Originally Posted by tango3d
You will need: Set of Spline screwdrivers, Flat screwdriver, Pop rivet gun, 3 small cable ties, Drill and 5 pop rivets.
1. Pull off the tweeter cover on top of door panel near front of window, no need to disconnect wire, just let it hang down.
2. Pull off SRS badge and remove the spline screw behind it.
3. remove the door latch plastic cover (1 screw)
4. At the bottom of the door pull handle next to the armrest there is an oblong slot, insert a flat screwdriver and prise the top half off, it is just clipped in. there are 2 spline screws behind it, remove them.
5. Using a plastic wedge of some sort or just by hand and starting at the lower part of the door latch, prise off the lower half of the door panel there are 6 or 7 plastic clips which hold it on, (I did this by hand and without breaking any but it may be worth purchasing a few just in case)
6. Lower the window and while pulling the panel slightly towards you, use your other hand to pull the panel upwards from the top starting at the front end, (this is quite tight, but it will come up)
7. panel is now off, pull the plug from the window switch and disconnect the cable from the door handle by opening the handle slightly and pulling up on the hook, the cable can then be removed from the door panel insert.
8. Drill out the 3 pop rivets holding the air bag and the 2 pop rivets holding the lower window strut. do not disconnect the airbag, let it hang down or tie it out of the way.
9. Remove the 3 screws holding the door latch and disconnect the wire from the panel near the front of the door. ( I actually cut the wire and pulled it through the loops to keep the original cable ties in place, when I replaced it I just used new cable ties to attach it back to the original location.)
10. You can now remove the locking mechanism by pulling it down and then towards the front by pushing back on the window strut.
Now do everything in revesre..
07-04-2007, 01:52 AM
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2003 C240, 2004 GMC Yukon
Apparently it is a common problem just took mine to the dealer today for the door actuator. I wasnt about to try and do this myself. Paid 372 total.
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07-04-2007, 02:09 PM
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Yes it should be disabled and handled with care. Disconnect the battery when you are drilling out the rivets holding the airbag, then you can reconnect the battery when the airbag is out of the way. Just remember that you should not put the key in the ignition if the airbag is disconnected, otherwise you may get an SRS error that can only be cleared via STAR DAS.
08-10-2007, 03:13 PM
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I went to the dealer today and they said the part was like 145 bucks...why is it so expensive conpared to other people saying the part was 86 bucks....does anyone have a part number or anything, or the exact name so I know that im getting the correct part i need. thanks.
08-10-2007, 06:57 PM
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2002 C230K, 2013 BMW 328, 2015 BMW X5
I went to the dealer today and they said the part was like 145 bucks...why is it so expensive conpared to other people saying the part was 86 bucks....does anyone have a part number or anything, or the exact name so I know that im getting the correct part i need. thanks.
Where are you located? How many parts depts. did you talk to?
Help us to help you. Fill out your profile, tell us where you are.
Different dealers charge different prices. Some can get away with it, others can't.
If you have the door lock pogo, the only part to fix it will be the actuator module.
E
Last edited by SeaCoupe; 08-10-2007 at 06:59 PM. Reason: Yes, I made it ruder
08-12-2007, 05:08 PM
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I am located in Boca Raton Florida. I went to one depatment (mercedes benz of pompano). The other mercedes is very far away. Do you know where I can get it the cheapest? Perhaps order it by mail, etc?
10-03-2007, 05:17 PM
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2003 C240 Wagon 4-Matic, 1995 E320 Wagon
Help!! Can't get actuator to slide down.....
I need some help with my 2003 C240 Wagon. I was wondering how to remove the outer door lock/handle so the actuator will slide down. It seems the the outer door lock goes into the actuator towards the top and won't let the actuator slide down for removal. I have been using tango3d's instructions above but I'm stuck at #10 because the actuator will not slide down because of the outer lock mechanism. Help...please.
10-03-2007, 09:36 PM
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2003 C240 Wagon 4-Matic, 1995 E320 Wagon
Thats It!!!
Thats what I needed to do. Thanks so much emrliquidlife for the reply and the pics. Very cool! Off to the garage to complete this not so easy task.
10-04-2007, 12:57 AM
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2003 C240 Wagon 4-Matic, 1995 E320 Wagon
Not so bad....but those darn rivets.
I was able to get the actuator out easily after getting the lock out. I also drilled out the bottom section of the window bracket (two rivets) and pushed it back as I wedged the actuator out of the bottom of the door. The problem I'm now having is I drilled out a couple rivet holes a bit larger than the original size. The bottom airbag rivet hole and one of the door handle bracket holes will not hold the original sized rivets....ugh! Can I just use metal screws with washers. Why do they use rivets anyway? I guess next time I will use a smaller drill bit and be more careful.
10-04-2007, 01:13 AM
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I was able to get the actuator out easily after getting the lock out. I also drilled out the bottom section of the window bracket (two rivets) and pushed it back as I wedged the actuator out of the bottom of the door. The problem I'm now having is I drilled out a couple rivet holes a bit larger than the original size. The bottom airbag rivet hole and one of the door handle bracket holes will not hold the original sized rivets....ugh! Can I just use metal screws with washers. Why do they use rivets anyway? I guess next time I will use a smaller drill bit and be more careful.
I have seen larger rivets. When you push that rivet through, i can't see how you would have drilled out a hole larger than 5/32.
So are you good at shapes or something? Universally, we have all had experienced the PIA when taking out the actuator.
What did you pay BTW?
E
10-04-2007, 01:57 AM
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Purchased it at dealer in
San Luis Obispo for $68 Plus the rivets. The stealership in Santa Barbara wanted $93.
Regarding the larger holes I used the wrong type of drill bits....made for wood I think. Needless to say I got a little impatient and started using different sized drill bits some that were probably bigger than 5/32....oopps.
I'll try the bigger rivets, that should do the job.
Thanks for the help!
Regarding the larger holes I used the wrong type of drill bits....made for wood I think. Needless to say I got a little impatient and started using different sized drill bits some that were probably bigger than 5/32....oopps.
I'll try the bigger rivets, that should do the job.
Thanks for the help!
03-13-2008, 02:01 AM
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2001 C320
I just had a similar issue except mine was on the back passenger door of my 2001 C320. I took it to German Auto Clinic in Seattle and it wasn't the motor or solenoid. The rod that connects to the door lock had come off and was jamming the motor. One hour labor and no parts needed to fix it. I bet working on the back door would have been much easier as there is less electronics but I didn't feel like taking the time to attempt this.
04-28-2008, 09:55 PM
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I just had a similar issue except mine was on the back passenger door of my 2001 C320. I took it to German Auto Clinic in Seattle and it wasn't the motor or solenoid. The rod that connects to the door lock had come off and was jamming the motor. One hour labor and no parts needed to fix it. I bet working on the back door would have been much easier as there is less electronics but I didn't feel like taking the time to attempt this.
04-29-2008, 12:46 PM
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Hmmm....did any of you guys hear any strange noises coming from your door when the lock went bad? When I was driving I heard a noise that sounded like a small box had fallen from my backseat and underneath my driver's seat. So I stopped, got out, and checked back there, stuck my hand underneath, and there was nothing there...I got back in, drove off, and when my car automatically locked, the driver's side lock went crazy...
It has been doing this for about 5 days now and seems to be having more and more trouble locking and unlocking each day.
04-29-2008, 12:54 PM
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I don't know if the two are related (in fact, I don't know how they could be) but, I was hearing a sound under my driver's seat for a week or two, that sounded like something metallic rolling around. I looked and felt around but there was nothing there. As the sound stopped, my driver's door lock started to pogo. Hmmmmmmm......
It has been doing this for about 5 days now and seems to be having more and more trouble locking and unlocking each day.
It has been doing this for about 5 days now and seems to be having more and more trouble locking and unlocking each day.
05-07-2008, 06:27 AM
#24
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Just a quick note for those fixing this problem DIY:
The lock system may not work properly unless ALL devices in the door are connected properly to the controller.
During the door disassembly, the control wiring for the mirror was disconnected. When trying to test the new lock actuator, it would unlock properly (both by the dash button and the remote), but would not lock at all.
After several hours of troubleshooting, trying various things & doing lots of research, it was assumed that a trip to the dealer for diagnosis would be required.
After reassembling the door, it was tested one last time - and everything worked properly. After going step-by-step and reconstructing what had changed, it was found that disconnecting the power mirror connection to the controller in the front top side of the door, caused the power lock actuator to unlock-but-not-lock.
Go figure.
Hope this helps save someone a couple of hours of head scratching . . .
The lock system may not work properly unless ALL devices in the door are connected properly to the controller.
During the door disassembly, the control wiring for the mirror was disconnected. When trying to test the new lock actuator, it would unlock properly (both by the dash button and the remote), but would not lock at all.
After several hours of troubleshooting, trying various things & doing lots of research, it was assumed that a trip to the dealer for diagnosis would be required.
After reassembling the door, it was tested one last time - and everything worked properly. After going step-by-step and reconstructing what had changed, it was found that disconnecting the power mirror connection to the controller in the front top side of the door, caused the power lock actuator to unlock-but-not-lock.
Go figure.
Hope this helps save someone a couple of hours of head scratching . . .
12-19-2008, 12:15 PM
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I just had mine replaced on a C230 K Coupe. Cost me $259, including parts & labor (2hours). There's a lot of junk parts in this car, but I guess I am finding out by holding onto the one car for 5 years...
