TruTaing's Stock W203 thread
07-20-2014, 11:54 PM
#401
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Thread Starter
My car that has recently pissed me off to no avail as of late... pleasantly surprised me today while running errands and making a trip to visit the grand parents in tacoma...
Overall, I drove about 100 miles where 80% of the time was on the highway and I averaged 30.4 mpg according to car's calculations. Yay for having skinnier tires + less rolling resistance. My engine is probably running on 3 cylinders or something.... This is probably a bad sign.
Overall, I drove about 100 miles where 80% of the time was on the highway and I averaged 30.4 mpg according to car's calculations. Yay for having skinnier tires + less rolling resistance. My engine is probably running on 3 cylinders or something.... This is probably a bad sign.
06-09-2015, 02:05 AM
#405
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Thread Starter
In march my driver side headlamp decided to call it quits. I assessed that the issue was not the bulb or the ballast. The headlamp was getting power, so I figured it had to be my igniter as its a known issue. I replaced the igniter via suggestions from MBWorld, but it still didnt fire up. Better yet, the passenger side started to flicker also. Great.
With that said, I decided that I didnt want to deal w/ the OEM BiX, the cost associated, and the potential for failure in a another OEM set. I bought an aftermarket set of projector depo headlamps on ebay and had them sent to a retrofitter (HIDIllusionz) and had a set of Morimoto Mini H1s installed. I also had the headlight reflector and housing painted in a gunmetal color also! It was a huge headache and a couple months of downtime, but the results were pretty solid.
Reasons for this:
Cost less than new and used OEM BiX.
Light output is substantially better.
If the igniter or ballast fail, they are both easy to replace now (dont even have to remove the headlight.
Set of cool customized headlamps just for me!
Reasons to not do this:
I had about 3 months of downtime.
The retrofit originally came w/ an aftermarket relay which would cause the lights to go out after 30 seconds... then stay off for a few seconds then turn back on. I resolved this issue by just drawing power from the OEM power source w/ a can-bus harness - just a fancy term for a plug that plugs into the OEM H7 power source and connects to the ballast.
Since the igniter, ballast, can-bus harness are all outside of the housing, there is a wire + grommet that hopefully will keep the moister out of the headlamp itself.......
What I wish I did differently:
Asked to just go w/ the can-bus harness from the start as the aftermarket relays are typically used on older cars. Sure my car is old, but the wiring is still solid (I think).
I shoulda just forked out a little more $$ and got better projectors. The Morimotos are better than the OEM option, but they arent as good as some of other projectors close to my price range..
Total spent: $750, countless hours researching. Knowledge gained of how the headlights work - priceless.
On an even less exciting note:
My damn AC stopped working. I think im out of freon as the EC rest light is permanently lit now. Also, one of my rear lisc plate light died...
All these lil things are adding up. Dont feel like burning it yet.
With that said, I decided that I didnt want to deal w/ the OEM BiX, the cost associated, and the potential for failure in a another OEM set. I bought an aftermarket set of projector depo headlamps on ebay and had them sent to a retrofitter (HIDIllusionz) and had a set of Morimoto Mini H1s installed. I also had the headlight reflector and housing painted in a gunmetal color also! It was a huge headache and a couple months of downtime, but the results were pretty solid.
Reasons for this:
Cost less than new and used OEM BiX.
Light output is substantially better.
If the igniter or ballast fail, they are both easy to replace now (dont even have to remove the headlight.
Set of cool customized headlamps just for me!
Reasons to not do this:
I had about 3 months of downtime.
The retrofit originally came w/ an aftermarket relay which would cause the lights to go out after 30 seconds... then stay off for a few seconds then turn back on. I resolved this issue by just drawing power from the OEM power source w/ a can-bus harness - just a fancy term for a plug that plugs into the OEM H7 power source and connects to the ballast.
Since the igniter, ballast, can-bus harness are all outside of the housing, there is a wire + grommet that hopefully will keep the moister out of the headlamp itself.......
What I wish I did differently:
Asked to just go w/ the can-bus harness from the start as the aftermarket relays are typically used on older cars. Sure my car is old, but the wiring is still solid (I think).
I shoulda just forked out a little more $$ and got better projectors. The Morimotos are better than the OEM option, but they arent as good as some of other projectors close to my price range..
Total spent: $750, countless hours researching. Knowledge gained of how the headlights work - priceless.
On an even less exciting note:
My damn AC stopped working. I think im out of freon as the EC rest light is permanently lit now. Also, one of my rear lisc plate light died...
All these lil things are adding up. Dont feel like burning it yet.
06-09-2015, 11:33 AM
#407
Moderator Alumni
Thread Starter
The headlights themselves are designed much like OEM/updated clear headlights, except the blinker section is a bit smaller to make space for the projector shroud. The pictures make them look darker than they are in person.
Nothing fancy. just 100% functional.
Things noted from the pictures:
SO many rock chips
Notice that my fog lights are also super foggy looking? That 3M cover has kept them from pitting/cracking, but the cover itself has taken a beating. I'd say I would refresh them, but.... They're still functional. Maybe i'll do retro into the fogs....
Car is still really dirty.
Question: Where are people mounting their aftermarket ballasts?!
Nothing fancy. just 100% functional.
Things noted from the pictures:
SO many rock chips
Notice that my fog lights are also super foggy looking? That 3M cover has kept them from pitting/cracking, but the cover itself has taken a beating. I'd say I would refresh them, but.... They're still functional. Maybe i'll do retro into the fogs....
Car is still really dirty.
Question: Where are people mounting their aftermarket ballasts?!
07-14-2015, 01:05 AM
#408
Moderator Alumni
Thread Starter
So my EC Light being permanently on was due to the fact that I was completely out of freon. Awesome. I had it refilled by the shop for a ridiculously expensive rate and they told me that there is no way it could be completely empty unless I had a leak and that I should use it lots so then they can find the leak and refill me for free. Awesome. It blew cold for about two weeks then.... Clank clank clank at a stop light, then again clank clank clank. Nothing but hot air now... Pretty sure my AC Compressor is dead. Im not excited about this. Haha.
Also due to the heat wave in Seattle, my headliner started sagging BIG TIME. Awesome. Time to rip it out!
Good news is, I had the liscense plate light has been replaced! haha. I also had a day where I drove some out of towners around to Leavenworth and back in one day. Averaged 27.3 mpg w/ two extra people and a trunk full of crap with the AC on full blast the whole way. Not too bad!
Fun news: I tested double spoke AMGs 18x9 ET24 and 18x9.5 ET28. Really excited for these! Cant wait to get them mounted.
My car is starting to cost more to repair than it does to drive... And its worth peanuts now too! I suppose it should be expected for a car thats almost 15 years old.
Also due to the heat wave in Seattle, my headliner started sagging BIG TIME. Awesome. Time to rip it out!
Good news is, I had the liscense plate light has been replaced! haha. I also had a day where I drove some out of towners around to Leavenworth and back in one day. Averaged 27.3 mpg w/ two extra people and a trunk full of crap with the AC on full blast the whole way. Not too bad!
Fun news: I tested double spoke AMGs 18x9 ET24 and 18x9.5 ET28. Really excited for these! Cant wait to get them mounted.
My car is starting to cost more to repair than it does to drive... And its worth peanuts now too! I suppose it should be expected for a car thats almost 15 years old.
02-05-2016, 10:20 AM
#411
Moderator Alumni
Thread Starter
Yay! The serpentine belt snapped! Idler pulley seized also! Both replaced and the car is still alive!
Sadly though, the car randomly died while slowing down in the city the other day. Pulled over while it was slowly rolling, put it in park, popped the hood - nothing seemed funky (belt was still in place! and the fan wasnt running, but all the lights on the dash lit up for a second). Started up and drove off w/o any issues. I have a feeling my crankshaft position sensor is acting up. Any suggestions?
Sadly though, the car randomly died while slowing down in the city the other day. Pulled over while it was slowly rolling, put it in park, popped the hood - nothing seemed funky (belt was still in place! and the fan wasnt running, but all the lights on the dash lit up for a second). Started up and drove off w/o any issues. I have a feeling my crankshaft position sensor is acting up. Any suggestions?
02-24-2016, 10:41 AM
#413
Moderator Alumni
Thread Starter
Crap.
Things have taken a turn for the worse. I drove home w/o any issues the other day because I've been driving the car a bunch. I get dinner, come out and try to start the car to find - it wont crank, my ABS fault light is on, and my speedo is no longer working and showing display faulty visit workshop (but the other gauges are working).
I turn the car off and sit for a bit and magically it just all works again after a few attempts to get the car to crank. I drive out and two minutes later at a stop, I get all the warning lights again, a CEL, and I'm in limp mode So I limp home, google and it seems like a million diff things...
ABS Controller attached to the pump? - My HID kit from the retro is right next to this - maybe it is interfering w/ how the controller works and communicates? I've had a brake pad warning brake light on since AROUND the time I installed the headlights, but I never put two and two together until now... I'm also assuming that this thing also communicates with speed sensors in the wheel hubs. Somehow, this driver side headlamp also likes to randomly NOT fire up....
Transmission related? I'm definitely DUE for a fluid flush, might as well change the filter, and the conductor plate while I'm at it - also, there is a speed sensor in here that seems to have been pretty well documented to fail every so often and put the car in limp mode.
Rear SAM - I think it communicates w/ the dash and deals w/ the brake switch - I've recently had my dash warn me my brake lights were out, then out of the blue they were fine the next day. With that said, I've had that pad warning light up for a while now w/o any clear indicator of what is going on (w/ thick/healthy pads, and new sensors)
I'm hoping you guys have some suggestions - I'll likely take it in for a transmission service soon and have the CPS done also (as the tech can do it in minutes vs me blindly trying to remove it).. Hopefully, they'll give me a better understanding of whats going on, but I was hoping you guys would have some suggestions as to what could potentially be going on.
I literally had thought about just having it towed directly to the wrecking yard last night.....
Things have taken a turn for the worse. I drove home w/o any issues the other day because I've been driving the car a bunch. I get dinner, come out and try to start the car to find - it wont crank, my ABS fault light is on, and my speedo is no longer working and showing display faulty visit workshop (but the other gauges are working).
I turn the car off and sit for a bit and magically it just all works again after a few attempts to get the car to crank. I drive out and two minutes later at a stop, I get all the warning lights again, a CEL, and I'm in limp mode
So I limp home, google and it seems like a million diff things...ABS Controller attached to the pump? - My HID kit from the retro is right next to this - maybe it is interfering w/ how the controller works and communicates? I've had a brake pad warning brake light on since AROUND the time I installed the headlights, but I never put two and two together until now... I'm also assuming that this thing also communicates with speed sensors in the wheel hubs. Somehow, this driver side headlamp also likes to randomly NOT fire up....
Transmission related? I'm definitely DUE for a fluid flush, might as well change the filter, and the conductor plate while I'm at it - also, there is a speed sensor in here that seems to have been pretty well documented to fail every so often and put the car in limp mode.
Rear SAM - I think it communicates w/ the dash and deals w/ the brake switch - I've recently had my dash warn me my brake lights were out, then out of the blue they were fine the next day. With that said, I've had that pad warning light up for a while now w/o any clear indicator of what is going on (w/ thick/healthy pads, and new sensors)
I'm hoping you guys have some suggestions - I'll likely take it in for a transmission service soon and have the CPS done also (as the tech can do it in minutes vs me blindly trying to remove it).. Hopefully, they'll give me a better understanding of whats going on, but I was hoping you guys would have some suggestions as to what could potentially be going on.
I literally had thought about just having it towed directly to the wrecking yard last night.....
Last edited by TruTaing; 02-24-2016 at 10:44 AM.
12-25-2016, 10:04 PM
#416
Happy holidays
,could you send me the link to get the shorter sway bar end links ,and from you experience would you go with the shorter sway bar end links or the adjustable end links.
,could you send me the link to get the shorter sway bar end links ,and from you experience would you go with the shorter sway bar end links or the adjustable end links.
