P0012 - Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Retarded (Bank 1)
09-25-2011, 08:39 PM
#126
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Torx bolts on the camshaft adjuster magnets are starting to rust. I don't like bolts rusting like that. MB dealer's price for those bolts (each of them) is $3 and some change. While I was at local Home Depot, I picked up some zinc plated M6 bolts for little more than $4 for 12 bolts. They fit perfectly.
With these bolts, we can use regular 10mm box wrench not having to worry about tight space behind the PS reservoir and oil cooler.
With these bolts, we can use regular 10mm box wrench not having to worry about tight space behind the PS reservoir and oil cooler.
10-12-2011, 09:50 AM
#127
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Hey guys! Love this blog and the help on here. I have a question. I own a 2006 c230 sport edition MB. I was told yesterday by the MB dealer that I have a FAULTY RIGHT EXHAUST CAM MAGNET. Their advice is that I change both the LEFT and RIGHT at the same time to avoid any other issues later on. My question is, does anyone have a picture of where the LEFT and RIGHT EXHAUST CAM MAGNET are located? I went to Autozone and they had a DURALAST for about 29.00. I plan to do this job myself as the Dealer wants $410.00. Looks like a plug and play kind of deal to me. Once again, does anyone have pictures of the LEFT and RIGHT EXHAUST CAM MAGNET in the engine compartment and is DURALAST a good brand? Also, what tools should I have handy for a job like this? MANY THANKS!
10-12-2011, 06:41 PM
#128
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Have you actually read this thread? I suggest you replace all magnets while you are about it.
I also suggest you use the OE magnets. If Benz can get it wrong & have to redesign - I would not buy aftermarket.
I also suggest you use the OE magnets. If Benz can get it wrong & have to redesign - I would not buy aftermarket.
10-13-2011, 11:44 AM
#129
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OK, so I finally got a chance to replace the sensor and wanted to report here. The Intermotor brand sensor that I bought from Amazon is indeed the OEM (Bosch) part, so I saved a bucketload over getting the MB part. Here is a pic comparing them:
It was super easy to replace, all that is needed is an E8 socket, (External 8mm Torx) and a ratchet. There 1 bolt and it is tricky because of some kind of vacuum valve that makes it hard to get the socket straight on the bolt. New sensor has O-ring installed, so make sure to coat the O-ring with fresh motor oil before installing. Here is a pic of where this sensor is located. Notice the sensor is removed in this pic:
I was getting the CEL every day or every other day, within the 1st 2 miles of driving from start. I replaced the sensor over a week ago and no CEL now. I also noticed smoother idle, and improved throttle response. I did no adjustment through STAR. Just replaced the sensor and reset CEL code before starting.
It was super easy to replace, all that is needed is an E8 socket, (External 8mm Torx) and a ratchet. There 1 bolt and it is tricky because of some kind of vacuum valve that makes it hard to get the socket straight on the bolt. New sensor has O-ring installed, so make sure to coat the O-ring with fresh motor oil before installing. Here is a pic of where this sensor is located. Notice the sensor is removed in this pic:
I was getting the CEL every day or every other day, within the 1st 2 miles of driving from start. I replaced the sensor over a week ago and no CEL now. I also noticed smoother idle, and improved throttle response. I did no adjustment through STAR. Just replaced the sensor and reset CEL code before starting.
John,
Great following your lead. I'm doing this similar job, this weekend and I am changing all (4) sensors. After I am done with the job, will the CEL light come off by itself? If not, how do I reset it? Thanks and wish me luck. Seems like an easy enough job, no???
10-13-2011, 11:49 AM
#130
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Thanks John! I am new to this blog and went through it all last night. I guess when you are dealing with a MB car engine, things can be a little intimidating. Is it really that simple of a job, just take the old sensor out, put the new one in and that's it?
10-13-2011, 02:57 PM
#131
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Yep it's that simple. Listen to Johnand's advice. He has walked this road & when he got his Star we realised that the problem is the magnets & not the sensors. The head scratching has been done on this problem. Access to the one magnet torx is slightly difficult but is covered in this thread. Please buy the OE (Bosch) part. As John pointed out that does not mean being ripped off by a dealer.
Good luck!
Good luck!
Last edited by Glyn M Ruck; 10-13-2011 at 02:59 PM.
10-13-2011, 03:39 PM
#132
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Yep it's that simple. Listen to Johnand's advice. He has walked this road & when he got his Star we realised that the problem is the magnets & not the sensors. The head scratching has been done on this problem. Access to the one magnet torx is slightly difficult but is covered in this thread. Please buy the OE (Bosch) part. As John pointed out that does not mean being ripped off by a dealer.
Good luck!
Good luck!
10-13-2011, 05:28 PM
#133
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Yes - as per post #57 replace all 4 magnets & get the problem behind you.
10-16-2011, 06:28 PM
#134
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Thanks a bunch, Glyn! I really appreciate it. Well, I purchased the following over the net: Cabin Filter - MANN, Air Filter- MANN and (4) Magnets - OE. This coming weekend, I am going to tackle this job. Another question, when all is said and done, how do I reset the CEL or will it go OFF on it's own? Thanks!
10-16-2011, 07:15 PM
#135
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It should go off on it's own with some use. If it does not just cancel all stored codes with an OBDII scanner.
10-16-2011, 08:44 PM
#136
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http://www.amazon.com/OBDLink-SX-Int...811393&sr=1-22
Any advice on changing FUEL FILTER? That's next up on my things to do list. I am tired of giving the stealership my hard earned money. This blog is amazing! Thanks for you advice thus far!
10-16-2011, 09:08 PM
#137
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Buy a stand alone scanner to keep in your glove box. You don't want to depend on a laptop.
https://mbworld.org/forums/off-topic...scan-tool.html.
Regarding fuel filter. Use the genuine Mahle Knecht filter. They contain the pressure regulator & we have had a number of rotten aftermarket filters.
There are a number of threads on replacement with WIS methods.
Your car is in the X Over period. You could have an external filter or an in-tank filter. You will have identify which. Let us know.
What mileage have you done? In-tank filters require replacement less often than external ones due to capacity.
https://mbworld.org/forums/off-topic...scan-tool.html.
Regarding fuel filter. Use the genuine Mahle Knecht filter. They contain the pressure regulator & we have had a number of rotten aftermarket filters.
There are a number of threads on replacement with WIS methods.
Your car is in the X Over period. You could have an external filter or an in-tank filter. You will have identify which. Let us know.
What mileage have you done? In-tank filters require replacement less often than external ones due to capacity.
10-23-2011, 11:57 PM
#138
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Buy a stand alone scanner to keep in your glove box. You don't want to depend on a laptop.
https://mbworld.org/forums/off-topic...scan-tool.html.
Regarding fuel filter. Use the genuine Mahle Knecht filter. They contain the pressure regulator & we have had a number of rotten aftermarket filters.
There are a number of threads on replacement with WIS methods.
Your car is in the X Over period. You could have an external filter or an in-tank filter. You will have identify which. Let us know.
What mileage have you done? In-tank filters require replacement less often than external ones due to capacity.
https://mbworld.org/forums/off-topic...scan-tool.html.
Regarding fuel filter. Use the genuine Mahle Knecht filter. They contain the pressure regulator & we have had a number of rotten aftermarket filters.
There are a number of threads on replacement with WIS methods.
Your car is in the X Over period. You could have an external filter or an in-tank filter. You will have identify which. Let us know.
What mileage have you done? In-tank filters require replacement less often than external ones due to capacity.
Any advice on a Steering Angle Replacement? I am getting the following message - ESP MALFUNCTION VISIT WORKSHOP. I took it in and the stealership stated that I needed a STEERING ANGLE REPLACEMENT (for $718.00 US.) They also stated that I needed a BRAKE FLUSH. Can you steer me in the right direction on that as well?
Thanks,
Bigshaun29
If I could, i would buy you a drink! Thanks for the help!
10-24-2011, 10:42 AM
#139
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If CEL is still on after 100 miles cancel the codes with a scanner. The engine will run a little smoother & produce more power with correct cam timing. There should also be a fuel consumption benefit.
Please turn your steering from lock to lock 5 times to reset the steering angle sensor. This will sometimes fix the problem. Do you have a Star printout of what the dealer found. It can be the SAS, Yaw sensor etc.
Flush brake fluid every 2 to 3 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic & absorbs water which lowers the boiling point & can cause corrosion in the system. If fluid boils at the wheel you will loose braking. Corrosion by-products can be damaging to brake components especially the ABS block & pump.
Please turn your steering from lock to lock 5 times to reset the steering angle sensor. This will sometimes fix the problem. Do you have a Star printout of what the dealer found. It can be the SAS, Yaw sensor etc.
Flush brake fluid every 2 to 3 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic & absorbs water which lowers the boiling point & can cause corrosion in the system. If fluid boils at the wheel you will loose braking. Corrosion by-products can be damaging to brake components especially the ABS block & pump.
10-24-2011, 11:04 AM
#140
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2007 C230SS; 2014 ML350 BT
Glyn is spot on. I doubt you need a SAS. Just turn the wheel lock to lock 5 times to reset.
I got the same ESP error at one point and I have a STAR system, and the error says to reset SAS by turning lock to lock 5 times. I think it tends to get out of calibration at times.
I got the same ESP error at one point and I have a STAR system, and the error says to reset SAS by turning lock to lock 5 times. I think it tends to get out of calibration at times.
10-24-2011, 11:42 AM
#141
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If CEL is still on after 100 miles cancel the codes with a scanner. The engine will run a little smoother & produce more power with correct cam timing. There should also be a fuel consumption benefit.
Please turn your steering from lock to lock 5 times to reset the steering angle sensor. This will sometimes fix the problem. Do you have a Star printout of what the dealer found. It can be the SAS, Yaw sensor etc.
Flush brake fluid every 2 to 3 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic & absorbs water which lowers the boiling point & can cause corrosion in the system. If fluid boils at the wheel you will loose braking. Corrosion by-products can be damaging to brake components especially the ABS block & pump.
Please turn your steering from lock to lock 5 times to reset the steering angle sensor. This will sometimes fix the problem. Do you have a Star printout of what the dealer found. It can be the SAS, Yaw sensor etc.
Flush brake fluid every 2 to 3 years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic & absorbs water which lowers the boiling point & can cause corrosion in the system. If fluid boils at the wheel you will loose braking. Corrosion by-products can be damaging to brake components especially the ABS block & pump.
I'll easily do 100 miles this week. I'll see what happens. If it is still on, I'll go to Autozone and see if they can clear the CEL. My birthday is next month and guess who is getting a OBD2 scanner?
Yeah, I did the lock to lock, but still get the ESP WORKSHOP FAULT message. I do not have the STAR printout of what the dealer found. He just gave me a printout of the receipt from some other work I had to get done and in the RECOMMENDATIONS section, that's what was listed. They also said that I need a wheel alignment because my REAR passenger tire is wearing out. Someone told me that if I do the wheel alignment, that that may clear the ESP message. Is this true? Also, can I have the wheel alignment done at a tire shop? I plan to purchase these:
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires....n&autoModClar=
and have my local shop install them. I figured I'll just have them do the wheel alignment as well.
Can I flush the brake fluid myself? If so, how do I go about doing that?
Thanks,
Shaun
10-24-2011, 11:47 AM
#142
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Glyn is spot on. I doubt you need a SAS. Just turn the wheel lock to lock 5 times to reset.
I got the same ESP error at one point and I have a STAR system, and the error says to reset SAS by turning lock to lock 5 times. I think it tends to get out of calibration at times.
I got the same ESP error at one point and I have a STAR system, and the error says to reset SAS by turning lock to lock 5 times. I think it tends to get out of calibration at times.
10-24-2011, 12:01 PM
#143
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John & Karo both own a Star DAS like a dealer has.
You can do a brake flush yourself. You need a pressure bleeder.
See attached pdf for rear toe adjustment.
Proper tyre shops should have decent Hunter, Bean etc alignment machines to do a proper 4 wheel alignment.
DWS is a good choice of A/S tyre.
You can do a brake flush yourself. You need a pressure bleeder.
See attached pdf for rear toe adjustment.
Proper tyre shops should have decent Hunter, Bean etc alignment machines to do a proper 4 wheel alignment.
DWS is a good choice of A/S tyre.
10-24-2011, 12:22 PM
#145
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10-24-2011, 07:43 PM
#147
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2006 C230, 2006 BMW M3, bye bye C55:(
Just an update 3 months later and no CEL, so I am convinced the problem is fixed.
Just wanted to bump this thread as a new member blanco617 has this code as well as p0022 and p0025, which are all the fault of the camshaft solenoids that have been revised. As I suggested to him in PM, I would replace all 4 of them, as they are known problem parts.
Attached is the EPC diagram of where they are located. It is the red circled part 140: Also attached is a picture of the front of the engine cylinder heads of where the solenoids/magnets are. They are super easy to replace. Just remove the 3 bolts in each one with an E8 external torx socket, unplug the connector and replace with new.
Part can be had here at Parts.com: http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...ber=2720510177 for $14.95 ea. Part number is attached to link.
Let me know if you need anymore help. Reading this thread in it's entirety should answer all the questions.
Just wanted to bump this thread as a new member blanco617 has this code as well as p0022 and p0025, which are all the fault of the camshaft solenoids that have been revised. As I suggested to him in PM, I would replace all 4 of them, as they are known problem parts.
Attached is the EPC diagram of where they are located. It is the red circled part 140: Also attached is a picture of the front of the engine cylinder heads of where the solenoids/magnets are. They are super easy to replace. Just remove the 3 bolts in each one with an E8 external torx socket, unplug the connector and replace with new.
Part can be had here at Parts.com: http://www.parts.com/oemcatalog/inde...ber=2720510177 for $14.95 ea. Part number is attached to link.
Let me know if you need anymore help. Reading this thread in it's entirety should answer all the questions.
I only replaced the bad one, but have another new magnet on hand if I have another pop up.
P0015 is Bank 1 Position "B". If you look back earlier in this thread Glyn posted the info to find the correct one. Bank 1 is passenger side of engine, and position "b" is the exhaust cam. So replace the magnet on the exhaust cam on the passenger's side of the engine.
P0015 is Bank 1 Position "B". If you look back earlier in this thread Glyn posted the info to find the correct one. Bank 1 is passenger side of engine, and position "b" is the exhaust cam. So replace the magnet on the exhaust cam on the passenger's side of the engine.
One more question and I will go tackle this job by cleaning them first. Are all 4 magnets specialized for the bank they are in, or universal for the car? I ask to make sure I do not have to buy 4 different magnets
10-25-2011, 03:54 AM
#150
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2006 C230, 2006 BMW M3, bye bye C55:(
Ok, time for my update
So, as you know I mentioned just cleaning the magnet instead of purchasing a new one. Why not, it only cost 5$(can of CRC Maf cleaner) and about 10 min of my time.
The one on the far left(looking at the engine) is the only one I cleaned tonight. Took it out, sprayed it down, waited 30 sec, and plugged it back in.
Outcome: The car runs like the day I bought it again! No more lag feeling and it literally feels like I got some power back! Also, when I started the car, it felt sooo much smoother that I thought I stalled it at first.
Anyway, buy it or spray it, cant go wrong Now I need to pull off the other 3 and spray!
So, as you know I mentioned just cleaning the magnet instead of purchasing a new one. Why not, it only cost 5$(can of CRC Maf cleaner) and about 10 min of my time.
The one on the far left(looking at the engine) is the only one I cleaned tonight. Took it out, sprayed it down, waited 30 sec, and plugged it back in.
Outcome: The car runs like the day I bought it again! No more lag feeling and it literally feels like I got some power back! Also, when I started the car, it felt sooo much smoother that I thought I stalled it at first.
Anyway, buy it or spray it, cant go wrong
Now I need to pull off the other 3 and spray!
