Rear camber arm bolt type/size
#1
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Rear camber arm bolt type/size
I am finally getting around to installing the Lensolo rear adjustable camber arms. What on earth size/type of bolt is holding the camber arm to the spindle? I looks like an inverted 12pt socket. I obviously don't have the right tool. I just need to know what it is that I need to go buy.
#3
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It's wierd- I searched this forum as well as mymbonline. Most of the cars that I saw pictures/posts of, were older than mine. They all used standard bolts with a 6-sided head. Not really sure what's going on here. Hopefully Tru will chime in. I just finished up the install of the SS brake lines- bleeding the brakes now.
#4
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I just read through Tru's thread. The way it reads, he had them installed by someone else. He did say that he had the same goofed up bolt that I am dealing with though. Not sure what he found out about it though.
#5
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http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/XZN-1...motiveQ5fTools
Looks like the type of bit needed is called an "XZN"- it's an inverted 12pt. I am going to search XZN to see if any name brands have that type of bit. For $18- I could see the ebay pieces stripping......kinda like the cheap torx bits I used to have.
Looks like the type of bit needed is called an "XZN"- it's an inverted 12pt. I am going to search XZN to see if any name brands have that type of bit. For $18- I could see the ebay pieces stripping......kinda like the cheap torx bits I used to have.
#6
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Tru has done so much fiddling with his rear suspension I'm sure he knows what's required. He just had a close shave with ice on a bridge so I think he's a bit shook up.
#7
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lol....
I feel so off the ball. Ive been out of the forums lately cuz of stuff outside of the car. The close call w/ the ice, the bridge, and my car are all very small in comparison to the "big stuff" that life has thrown at me... The car can wait..
As for the rear camber arm installation - I ran into this same bolt and couldn't figure out exactly what it was and ended up just having my shop install it + got a realignment from Firestone w/ my lifetime alignment deal... I'm pretty sure if you are able to purchase the tool, itd be a simple installation - the shop showed me the tool and gave me its "official MB name," but I cant remember for the life of me right now... (the shop took less than an hour to install the arms - imo w/ the cold weather and crap Ive gotta deal w/ around here... an hour spent NOT on a cold garage floor was well worth it)
Be careful with changing up your rear camber if you're super low in the back though.. I believe my rear camber was around -2.5 or somewhere around there and when i had it adjusted to zero, there was no chance of me clearing my fenders, so I had it readjusted to -0.8.
I bet you MB has a part number for this tool... Cue splinter for part numbers :P
I feel so off the ball. Ive been out of the forums lately cuz of stuff outside of the car. The close call w/ the ice, the bridge, and my car are all very small in comparison to the "big stuff" that life has thrown at me... The car can wait..
As for the rear camber arm installation - I ran into this same bolt and couldn't figure out exactly what it was and ended up just having my shop install it + got a realignment from Firestone w/ my lifetime alignment deal... I'm pretty sure if you are able to purchase the tool, itd be a simple installation - the shop showed me the tool and gave me its "official MB name," but I cant remember for the life of me right now... (the shop took less than an hour to install the arms - imo w/ the cold weather and crap Ive gotta deal w/ around here... an hour spent NOT on a cold garage floor was well worth it)
Be careful with changing up your rear camber if you're super low in the back though.. I believe my rear camber was around -2.5 or somewhere around there and when i had it adjusted to zero, there was no chance of me clearing my fenders, so I had it readjusted to -0.8.
I bet you MB has a part number for this tool... Cue splinter for part numbers :P
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#8
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I was thinking about that yesterday when I was out in the garage. My camber doesn't seem to be too out of spec. However, if I straighten the wheels up any more, I'm not convinced I won't have rubbing issues.
Any gains to be had by changing them anyway. Seems there might be some flex in the rubber bushings that might go away with the addition of the solid camber arms?
Any gains to be had by changing them anyway. Seems there might be some flex in the rubber bushings that might go away with the addition of the solid camber arms?
#9
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I believe the greatest benefit of installing camber arms as opposed to eccentric bolts is the "ease" of installation - lol. I think arms also have a much greater range of adjustment than the eccentric bolts. I never noticed anything different (noise/what nots) in my rear suspension after installing the arms w/ the solid joints/arms... The biggest difference I notice is MUCH better tire wear.
#10
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I should have thought this purchase over a little more. My wheels are et32 in the rear and a 265 tire. I don't rub on the driver's side, but I rub just a tad on the passenger occasionally. I need to shave the passenger side just a little more I think.
Looks like I will be selling off my arms. Ahh well- that will help fund another mod I guess. Then again, rather than loosing money on these, I could go ahead and install them. Never know, I might end up with a different set of wheels sometime, which would allow the room to straighten up the rear a hair.
Looks like I will be selling off my arms. Ahh well- that will help fund another mod I guess. Then again, rather than loosing money on these, I could go ahead and install them. Never know, I might end up with a different set of wheels sometime, which would allow the room to straighten up the rear a hair.
#11
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Why sell the arms? Just find the tool and install them... Adjust your camber accordingly and raise the rear of the car if you need a bit more space :P
Oddly enough - I found that I only rubbed on the passenger side also when I was much lower in the rear (and using tein basics). What suspension are you using?
Oddly enough - I found that I only rubbed on the passenger side also when I was much lower in the rear (and using tein basics). What suspension are you using?
#12
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Raising the rear? That's just not American....the lower the better
My local hardware store is fantastic. You name it- they've got it. All the good brand power tools, welders, air compressors....everything.
They had what I needed, well at least I think they do. I stopped in to see what they had. The had an assortment of 8 bits in a package, then a few singles. I bought the one that I thought was it (14mm)- turns out I was mistaken. It's a tad too big- must be the 12mm. Not sure if they have that one as a single or if I have to buy the entire set. Either way, I won't be out more than $25. Head out to go get the correct piece, stop off for some beer- then head to the garage with a new tool and a cold 6-pack. Some work is about to get done
My local hardware store is fantastic. You name it- they've got it. All the good brand power tools, welders, air compressors....everything.
They had what I needed, well at least I think they do. I stopped in to see what they had. The had an assortment of 8 bits in a package, then a few singles. I bought the one that I thought was it (14mm)- turns out I was mistaken. It's a tad too big- must be the 12mm. Not sure if they have that one as a single or if I have to buy the entire set. Either way, I won't be out more than $25. Head out to go get the correct piece, stop off for some beer- then head to the garage with a new tool and a cold 6-pack. Some work is about to get done
#13
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#15
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I like a good mix of form and function
The car still has a little rake- not much. Just a shade higher in the rear.
I was correct- 12mm. It's called either an "XZN" bit or a "tripple square" bit.
Schlafley's Coffee Stout- CHECK
Camber arms- CHECK
Correct tools- CHECK
Good tunes- CHECK
Old clothes, as not to get yelled at by the Mrs. for having good clothes on while out in the shop- CHECK
I shall report back in a little bit with my progress- be it my progress on the 6-pack or my progress on the camber arms
The car still has a little rake- not much. Just a shade higher in the rear.
I was correct- 12mm. It's called either an "XZN" bit or a "tripple square" bit.
Schlafley's Coffee Stout- CHECK
Camber arms- CHECK
Correct tools- CHECK
Good tunes- CHECK
Old clothes, as not to get yelled at by the Mrs. for having good clothes on while out in the shop- CHECK
I shall report back in a little bit with my progress- be it my progress on the 6-pack or my progress on the camber arms
#17
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Camber arms installed and 2 out of the 6 brews consumed. Not a bad ratio of parts installed to beer consumed if I do say so myself. Pictures to come as soon as I track down my card reader......and another brew
#18
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A how-to for the camber arms can be found here: http://www.speedybenz.com/documents/38.html , although anyone that plans to do the swap himself, shouldn't need a how-to in the first place.
I will add a few tidbits though.....
-Most hardware and/or auto parts stores (chain and local) carry a brand of tool called Lisle. Their part number for the tool you need is 60790.
-If your car is one of the cars that requires the special tool, speedybenz' how-to skips a step. Before taking off the outboard camber bolt, you will first have to take out the bolt that holds the caster/toe arm. You can't get to the 12pt head for the camber arm w/o doing this first.
-Again, anyone that is thinking of doing this himself, should already know this, but I am going to say it anyway. When doing any suspension work- be sure to use a jack under the suspension arm to take the tension off. It makes it easier for the bolts to come out, and could possibly save you from any suprises (stored energy in the spring being released when a bolt comes out).
Gotta love how a big temperature change in the shop causes the floor to sweat and the rotors to flash rust.
I will add a few tidbits though.....
-Most hardware and/or auto parts stores (chain and local) carry a brand of tool called Lisle. Their part number for the tool you need is 60790.
-If your car is one of the cars that requires the special tool, speedybenz' how-to skips a step. Before taking off the outboard camber bolt, you will first have to take out the bolt that holds the caster/toe arm. You can't get to the 12pt head for the camber arm w/o doing this first.
-Again, anyone that is thinking of doing this himself, should already know this, but I am going to say it anyway. When doing any suspension work- be sure to use a jack under the suspension arm to take the tension off. It makes it easier for the bolts to come out, and could possibly save you from any suprises (stored energy in the spring being released when a bolt comes out).
Gotta love how a big temperature change in the shop causes the floor to sweat and the rotors to flash rust.
Last edited by bumpnzx3; 03-09-2009 at 08:18 PM.
#19
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2003 c230k coupe
you can get that tool at autozone, its for suspension/chasis 12mm
I recently installed a speedy camber kit myself in the rear, but as i adjusted the length, the whole hub plate moved forward and is off centered. The toe angle seems to have changed when i adjusted the camber angle. what accounts for this?? how do you adjust camber angle while keeping everything else constant
it seems that the angle that the camber arm connects to the hub is not perpendicular, it is slanted, and maybe this is why its pushing the plate forward...
I recently installed a speedy camber kit myself in the rear, but as i adjusted the length, the whole hub plate moved forward and is off centered. The toe angle seems to have changed when i adjusted the camber angle. what accounts for this?? how do you adjust camber angle while keeping everything else constant
it seems that the angle that the camber arm connects to the hub is not perpendicular, it is slanted, and maybe this is why its pushing the plate forward...
Last edited by rsdntevl; 03-09-2009 at 08:28 PM.
#20
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IIRC, adjusting camber on our cars definitely affects the toe. The toe adjustment bolt is a biatch to get to and the guys at firestone HATE me cuz you have to loosen up panels and work around the fuel filter to adjust the toe :x
#21
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I believe that's correct. Also, in talking to him through PM, I think he may have been adjusting it a tad too far out, which may have put him out of the adjustment range for the toe in the first place.
#22
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2003 c230k coupe
oh so you can adjust the toe? it seems to be more complete to adjust the toe as well. I hope firestone would do that for me cause i have life-time alignment there. Prob the best deal ever for about 170, i think.
#23
Camber kit
A how-to for the camber arms can be found here: http://www.speedybenz.com/documents/38.html , although anyone that plans to do the swap himself, shouldn't need a how-to in the first place.
I will add a few tidbits though.....
-Most hardware and/or auto parts stores (chain and local) carry a brand of tool called Lisle. Their part number for the tool you need is 60790.
-If your car is one of the cars that requires the special tool, speedybenz' how-to skips a step. Before taking off the outboard camber bolt, you will first have to take out the bolt that holds the caster/toe arm. You can't get to the 12pt head for the camber arm w/o doing this first.
-Again, anyone that is thinking of doing this himself, should already know this, but I am going to say it anyway. When doing any suspension work- be sure to use a jack under the suspension arm to take the tension off. It makes it easier for the bolts to come out, and could possibly save you from any suprises (stored energy in the spring being released when a bolt comes out).
Gotta love how a big temperature change in the shop causes the floor to sweat and the rotors to flash rust.
I will add a few tidbits though.....
-Most hardware and/or auto parts stores (chain and local) carry a brand of tool called Lisle. Their part number for the tool you need is 60790.
-If your car is one of the cars that requires the special tool, speedybenz' how-to skips a step. Before taking off the outboard camber bolt, you will first have to take out the bolt that holds the caster/toe arm. You can't get to the 12pt head for the camber arm w/o doing this first.
-Again, anyone that is thinking of doing this himself, should already know this, but I am going to say it anyway. When doing any suspension work- be sure to use a jack under the suspension arm to take the tension off. It makes it easier for the bolts to come out, and could possibly save you from any suprises (stored energy in the spring being released when a bolt comes out).
Gotta love how a big temperature change in the shop causes the floor to sweat and the rotors to flash rust.