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Common suspension noises and solutions
#152
Super Member
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: So. Cal.
Posts: 651
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'02 C320 Wagon, '78 308 GTS, '06 Highlander Hybrid
If you changed out the sway bar bushings and it got worse, then the noise is likely associated with that part of the suspension. Sounds like you got the wrong size bushings. You can put the old ones back in and see if the noise is less...like before. Or, better yet, just disconnect the swaybar and go over some bumps and see if you still have the noise...if not, then you know what part of the suspension you need to look at.
#153
Super Member
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5616937
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5618957
A lot of confusion around the sway bars ... evidently lots of changeups over time.
If you want a second dealership opinion, try calling the parts counter at Autobahn Motors in Belmont Shores, CA 94002 http://www.autobahnmotors.com/index.htm
#154
Steering rack bushings $70 each
Water pump $950
Supercharger clutch $5600
Intercooler pump $900
End links $190
TCC solenoid $430
I'd be shocked if a new sway bar came in less than $800
#155
I have a couple of posts in this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5616937
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5618957
A lot of confusion around the sway bars ... evidently lots of changeups over time.
If you want a second dealership opinion, try calling the parts counter at Autobahn Motors in Belmont Shores, CA 94002 http://www.autobahnmotors.com/index.htm
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5616937
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ml#post5618957
A lot of confusion around the sway bars ... evidently lots of changeups over time.
If you want a second dealership opinion, try calling the parts counter at Autobahn Motors in Belmont Shores, CA 94002 http://www.autobahnmotors.com/index.htm
#156
Super Member
Yeah dealers here in AUS are criminals. Here are some prices I've had off them in the past:
Steering rack bushings $70 each
Water pump $950
Supercharger clutch $5600
Intercooler pump $900
End links $190
TCC solenoid $430
I'd be shocked if a new sway bar came in less than $800
Steering rack bushings $70 each
Water pump $950
Supercharger clutch $5600
Intercooler pump $900
End links $190
TCC solenoid $430
I'd be shocked if a new sway bar came in less than $800
Sorry, I didn't see you were in Australia. It's a crime how much some countries/regions are overcharged for car parts.
For the sway bar specifically I was initially surprised at the low price (I believe it's $80 retail here) ... but then realized that since you can't buy the bushings separately and are stuck with a complete bar just to fix two $10 rubber parts, they much have priced it lower to compensate.
Too bad you can't call a US dealership and have them ship it over there ...
If it's really that large of a price gap, let me know what you need next time, I'll bake them into some chocolate chip cookies and send you over a care package
Last edited by jkowtko; 10-20-2014 at 11:29 PM.
#157
LOL!
Sorry, I didn't see you were in Australia. It's a crime how much some countries/regions are overcharged for car parts.
For the sway bar specifically I was initially surprised at the low price (I believe it's $80 retail here) ... but then realized that since you can't buy the bushings separately and are stuck with a complete bar just to fix two $10 rubber parts, they much have priced it lower to compensate.
Too bad you can't call a US dealership and have them ship it over there ...
If it's really that large of a price gap, let me know what you need next time, I'll bake them into some chocolate chip cookies and send you over a care package
Sorry, I didn't see you were in Australia. It's a crime how much some countries/regions are overcharged for car parts.
For the sway bar specifically I was initially surprised at the low price (I believe it's $80 retail here) ... but then realized that since you can't buy the bushings separately and are stuck with a complete bar just to fix two $10 rubber parts, they much have priced it lower to compensate.
Too bad you can't call a US dealership and have them ship it over there ...
If it's really that large of a price gap, let me know what you need next time, I'll bake them into some chocolate chip cookies and send you over a care package
Anyways the guys recon the new sway bar bushings are causing the noise. They're gonna fit some original mb bushings instead of the bilstein bushings they fitted. On the up side the steering rack mounts have improved the steering feel over bumps. The bar is 23mm with removable bushings. Hopefully that solves the popping noise once and for all. Got the behr and water pump going in this week and hopefully that closes out the restoration and my wallet can relax for a little andi can start enjoying the car more consistently. On the down side I scraped one of my wheels on the way home ... Seriously considering going back to the stock 17s.
Last edited by crembz; 10-23-2014 at 04:42 AM.
#159
Hey mate, yeah the bushes were replaced with mb bushes and all the creaking is gone. Still have the loose steering column rattle though, I think I'll get onto that and replace the coupler straight after the quaife goes in
Also need to replace the brake pads with something that doesn't sound like a dying pig in low speed braking!
Also need to replace the brake pads with something that doesn't sound like a dying pig in low speed braking!
#160
Senior Member
My noise is mainly from the front. From the back I get a rattle, which I'm sure is the sway bar shaking around. I will get to that in the coming days.
But in the front, it sounds like my car has something loose. I can't even drive into a shopping plaza or parking lot that has a slight bump without slowing down, otherwise it sounds like my car is gonna fall apart. It sounds like a big part (maybe shocks?) are lose and banging up and down on the chassis. Not only that, the car is bouncy and unstable hitting even a CRACK on the road. Yes, a small crack.
Anyone have a good idea what I should look at? I'm sure the car needs some new suspension, but I'm trying to tackle this noise first, and come summer I will do a complete swap.
But in the front, it sounds like my car has something loose. I can't even drive into a shopping plaza or parking lot that has a slight bump without slowing down, otherwise it sounds like my car is gonna fall apart. It sounds like a big part (maybe shocks?) are lose and banging up and down on the chassis. Not only that, the car is bouncy and unstable hitting even a CRACK on the road. Yes, a small crack.
Anyone have a good idea what I should look at? I'm sure the car needs some new suspension, but I'm trying to tackle this noise first, and come summer I will do a complete swap.
#161
Super Member
The first thing I would check is strut mounts.
Open the hood and look at the two mount points on the sides of the engine bay where the top of each struct sticks through. Fastened to the top of each strut post is a small straight (1" x 4") metal bracket that should be floating above the chassis metal maybe 1/4". The nut itself it probably covered by a black plastic cap.
Bounce the car up and down. You should see the bracket flex only every so slightly up and down relative to the body of the car. It should flex less than a millimeter. If you see it moving a lot, then the top rubber mount is likely torn.
It that is the culprit, then you are looking at having to remove the struts assembly in order to get to the strut mount (it is part of the strut assembly complete with compressed spring). And in order to take out the strut, you have to remove the ball joint of the upper control arm from the steering knuckle. So if your car has not had front suspension work done lately (or since 2001), then you should consider replacing at this time:
* struts
* top strut mounts
* upper control arms
Additionally, to remove the bushing side of the upper control arm you have to remove the sway bar bushing brackets, so also consider replacing at this time:
* sway bar bushings.
The following additional items may also need to be replaced, but they can all be replaced independently without requiring removal of any of the above or each other:
* lower control arms
* sway bar links
* sway bar bushings.
If you do the bounce test and that top bracket does not appear to flex excessively but you still feel poor control and/or get lots of noise, then your struts just might be shot. Unfortunately that's about the same list as above for the top strut mounts ... I would suggest replacing the strut mounts whenever you replace the struts, since you have to disassemble so much to get to either part.
There is one other possibility that I've heard of, which is a broken spring. You should be able to check the spring by visual inspection if you jack up the car and remove the tire. The entire spring is in plain sight.
Let us know what you find!
Thanks. John
Open the hood and look at the two mount points on the sides of the engine bay where the top of each struct sticks through. Fastened to the top of each strut post is a small straight (1" x 4") metal bracket that should be floating above the chassis metal maybe 1/4". The nut itself it probably covered by a black plastic cap.
Bounce the car up and down. You should see the bracket flex only every so slightly up and down relative to the body of the car. It should flex less than a millimeter. If you see it moving a lot, then the top rubber mount is likely torn.
It that is the culprit, then you are looking at having to remove the struts assembly in order to get to the strut mount (it is part of the strut assembly complete with compressed spring). And in order to take out the strut, you have to remove the ball joint of the upper control arm from the steering knuckle. So if your car has not had front suspension work done lately (or since 2001), then you should consider replacing at this time:
* struts
* top strut mounts
* upper control arms
Additionally, to remove the bushing side of the upper control arm you have to remove the sway bar bushing brackets, so also consider replacing at this time:
* sway bar bushings.
The following additional items may also need to be replaced, but they can all be replaced independently without requiring removal of any of the above or each other:
* lower control arms
* sway bar links
* sway bar bushings.
If you do the bounce test and that top bracket does not appear to flex excessively but you still feel poor control and/or get lots of noise, then your struts just might be shot. Unfortunately that's about the same list as above for the top strut mounts ... I would suggest replacing the strut mounts whenever you replace the struts, since you have to disassemble so much to get to either part.
There is one other possibility that I've heard of, which is a broken spring. You should be able to check the spring by visual inspection if you jack up the car and remove the tire. The entire spring is in plain sight.
Let us know what you find!
Thanks. John
Last edited by jkowtko; 12-20-2014 at 02:49 PM.
#162
Member
Hey folks, there is this knocking sound coming from the front passenger side feels like some metal rubbing on each other when turning full right lock, at first it was the struts nut loose so the spring was snapping from its upper mount plate but we fixed it and its fine now but the sound is still coming im wondering if its the sway bar now need to be replaced , does it create that noise?!
#163
Super Moderator
The first things to look at are the castor/thrust arm bushings for cracks & damage. Common issue. Then check the sway bar drop arms.
#164
Member
Well glad you mentioned it, i went under the car a hour ago and i recall the thrust arm bushings had cracks in them on both front sides but more noticeable on the passenger side, all this time i thought the problem was in the strut area but that doesnt seem to be it.Ill change em bushings tomorrow.
#165
Super Moderator
Benz had a bulletin out on this issue. Bushes were improved. Changed very early under warranty on my old C240 & never another issue.
#166
Member
Left thrust arm bushing.
Right thrust arm bushing
#168
Member
oh my bad then, well i recall those one had some oil on em well at least on the passenger side..similar to the first pic you posted but with less oil plus it had cracks in em too , all 4 arms (Camber/Castor) in the car.Do you have any idea how much per piece?
Last edited by Cruel-Merc; 12-21-2014 at 05:53 PM.
#169
Super Moderator
The castor bushes are silicone fluid filled & leak when they crack.
They used to be about US$20 each.
Here is the bulletin. Ignore VIN numbers. It was a general problem.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...h-bulletin.pdf
They used to be about US$20 each.
Here is the bulletin. Ignore VIN numbers. It was a general problem.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...h-bulletin.pdf
#170
Member
The castor bushes are silicone fluid filled & leak when they crack.
They used to be about US$20 each.
Here is the bulletin. Ignore VIN numbers. It was a general problem.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...h-bulletin.pdf
They used to be about US$20 each.
Here is the bulletin. Ignore VIN numbers. It was a general problem.
https://mbworld.org/forums/attachmen...h-bulletin.pdf
#171
Senior Member
So it finally got nice enough and I went out and popped the hood open and checked the mounts. I bounced the car up and down on both sides of the front and I heard a "squishy" sound when it would bounce back. Like either fluid was being squirted, or air was pushing out. There was no movement in the mounts themselves. Does that mean my shocks are shot? It sure feels like it, it bounces like a stripper twerking!
#172
Super Member
If the top mount rubber isn't flexing excessively and the car bounces a few times, then it sounds like the struts. You could look for a second opinion, but if your car has 100k miles on it and the shocks/struts have never been changed, then it is likely they are shot.
I would replace the fronts and rears all together. I suggest you also consider replacing the top strut mounts -- an extra cost, but you don't want to have to go back in there in a few years to replace them.
I would replace the fronts and rears all together. I suggest you also consider replacing the top strut mounts -- an extra cost, but you don't want to have to go back in there in a few years to replace them.
#173
If you changed out the sway bar bushings and it got worse, then the noise is likely associated with that part of the suspension. Sounds like you got the wrong size bushings. You can put the old ones back in and see if the noise is less...like before. Or, better yet, just disconnect the swaybar and go over some bumps and see if you still have the noise...if not, then you know what part of the suspension you need to look at.
#175
Super Member
Yes. You use fluted bolts that allow the mount points of the upper and lower control arm bushings to be moved a few mm in each direction. See this thread:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-question.html
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-question.html