ryanblace

Can anyone remember what it cost them to have the filler neck replaced? I'm wondering if the tank needs to be dropped.

Does anyone consider this to be a DIY job at all?

drb930

You don't have to drop the tank.
Just remove the right rear tire, and inner fender well cover.
Takes about an hour.
I don't know your level of mechanical ability, but pretty easy job.

Thanks,
Dave

pcy

If you already don't have it, here is the diagram for fuel filler neck.

ryanblace

Thanks Dave and pcy. I'm going to knock this out Saturday. I'll try to take a bunch of pics and post a step-by-step for the next guy.

ryanblace

I tried a new gas cap. And, as expected it didn't help. The light came back on after a few days. I ended up ordering the new fuel filler neck from http://www.getmercedesparts.com/. It was $275 plus shipping. I live in LA and it cost me $289.29 total. Which is pretty incredible considering I called 3 or 4 local dealers and they quoted me $400 to $450 plus tax (which is 10% here).

I ordered it on the 22nd and it arrived today the 2nd (8 days).

I've attached a picture of the part.

I'm going out to a buddy's shop to install it this Saturday. I'll take pics and put together a DIY.

If you've done this and know of any gotchas to watch out for... please let me know.

Thanks.

LILBENZ230

This is exclusively a 2005 problem. I wonder what the deal was? I'm glad it happened to me under warranty.

ryanblace

Yeah, the fact that the part number changed from A2034701_7_20 to A2034701_9_50 makes me think that they found the design error and solved it with the replacement part.

I'm going to look at both parts when I have the old one off and look for anything obvious, but I doubt I'll see anything with the naked eye. I'd really love to find out which hose/piece is really the problem. I _KNOW_ I'm replacing about 6 things when only one part of the subassembly is failing. :| And that part is probably only $20!!!

LILBENZ230

Well mine was replaced in 2009 when the mileage was in the late 30k range. I'm at right about 105,000 miles now and it has never been a problem since. So I guess whatever they did worked.

essa

[QUOTE=ryanblace;4549368]
I've attached a picture of the part.

I'm going out to a buddy's shop to install it this Saturday. I'll take pics and put together a DIY.

QUOTE]

Way to go Ryan. Please do post the pictures and instruction.

trevor576

Just so you all know, the "buddy with the shop this weekend" just stumbled onto this blog while looking for a good diy on how to do this on here! haha. Total coincedence! I didn't know you were on here Ryan! Wish us luck everyone! See you this weekend Ryan!

ryanblace

Get the part:

Take off the back right tire... you know, the one next to the gas cap...

Take off the wheel liner thing next, there are 10 to 12 screws or plastic pop things to take out.



The part we are replacing is now visible.

Release the clamps.

Removing the clamps ended up taking a bunch of time because we didn't have the right tool to remove them. Even after they are finally off, getting the hose off might require some additional work with a sharp razor.

Once everything is disconnected, remove the 3 bolts holding the part on. Only two are visible in this picture, but the other one is easy to find.

Pop out the rubber ring holding in the gas thing.

There is probably another hose with that annoying clamp hiding behind. We wasted another 20 minutes are that:

Hey, you are now half way done!

Transfer over the rubber gasket to the new part and put the new part in the car.

Connect the hoses...

Bolt it on. At this point, we didn't worry too much about the rubber gasket where the gas goes.

Here you can see the gasket which needs to be positioned. It is also backwards. Do not try to install it backwards. Even if you have two people taking turns trying for 90 minutes, it will not work.

This is what it looks like when on correctly:

and positioned:

Finally, put the liner thing back in and put the tire back on.
We hate this:

And we hope "Check Engine" doesn't return!



I think the job really would take under 2 hours total. I can't imagine trying it without a lift. I hate working on cars and I hate working on plumbing. When asked which I hate more, I said this job because it is basically plumbing on an car.

I'll post back after I pass SMOG.

pcy

thanks for posting the replacement procedure.
Is that code P0456 cleared?

ryanblace

I cleared the code and it hasn't come back yet. We did it last Saturday so tomorrow it will be a week. I think it used to take 5 days or so to come back on. We are not sure if it is miles driven or number of starts. I know the computer checks for EVAP leaks only at some interval. If it stays off, Monday I'll have it SMOG'd again.

Suf_C230

done. replaced mine three weeks ago . I have filled the tank twice , no CEL .
when removing the old filler neck , I've found gas moist vapor around the valve at the top of the filler nick , where the U shape vacuum line connected from the expansion tank to the valve at the filler neck , just cracked & disconnected when I tried to check it! I hope this is the problem .

Following computer test requirements to check the EVAP system ( from w203 maintenance work shop pages I have from somewhere ) :

- Engine at idle speed.
- Blocking time after starting the engine has expired ( around 16 minutes ) or Mixture adaptation is complete .
- Lambda control enabled.
- Intake temperature is less than +45 degrees Celsius = +113 Fah.
- Coolant temp at engine start less than +100 degrees Celsius = +212 Fah.
- Driving position D or R engaged .
- Secondary air injection not active.
- Air pressure more than 780 hPa ( i.e. above a height of approx. 2500 m , there is no test ).
- Low loading of activated charcoal canister .
- Fuel level in fuel tank between approx. 1.4 & ¾
- No fault in activated charcoal canister pressure sensor.
- No fault in fuel tank pressure sensor .
- No fault in purge control valve .
- Battery voltage higher than 11v.
- No leak in the pressure relief valve(ORVR)

Tests ( if above are fulfilled ):
- Major leak test . ( if gas cap is open or loose hose line).
- Minor leak test ( equal or greater than 1 mm ),
- Micro leak test ( equal or greater than 0.5 mm ) , I suppose this causes the P0456.

thanks ryanblace for the DIY pics , thanks all .

C230 Sport Coup

I'm sorry, but if this is an emission control systems issue,
wouldn't it be covered?
In CA, they have to warranty anything related to emissions
for like 80K miles or 7 years.
It's not possible to pinpoint the leak and fix it?

ryanblace

Car has 88k on it.

LILBENZ230

Great walk through. And again, I'm really glad mine was done under warranty.

jneilosu

Hello, considering doing this on my 2005 c230 as it too has a CEL that won't go away due to vapor leaks, and no mechanic can seem to figure it out. The fuel lines hold pressue and the valve checked out okay according to the mechanic. Just curious, it's been 3 months, is your CEL still staying off?

ryanblace

Yes, the light has been off since this work was done.

emmruiz

Is this a common problem with the 2004 c230.
First time i ran into this thread from all the googling and searching.

LILBENZ230

I've only seen 2005 models on the forum have this issue.

1beege

I have an 05 with the same problem. just removed the filler neck anf the crossover tube on the back broke and fell off as soon as i touched it. Hope this is the leak. Thank you for all the info guys

cesarpeji

Ryan - which part of filler neck was leaking, can it fix/seal than replace? i'm ready to work on mine..code p0456. was the hose leaking or the filler nect itself around the weld part?? Thanks.

cesarpeji

Have you replace the fuel filler neck or just the hoses? Let me know, I would like to do mine in the future.

emmruiz

I have a 2004 c230 kompressor.
I had this small evap leak. They could not figure out what was wrong.
Then they said my canister was semi working, not good nor bad. Compared to a new one.
They fixed it and I went to orlando, stayed there 3 days, and back with no issues. Was a total of 500-600 miles I did. The it came on with the small evap leak, I been wanting to take it back, and then all of a sudden it it disappeared.

A few post above I asked if this issue was common on the 2004 c230 komp models, I did look online and found people say it on 2005 some 2002, but not specifically 2004.

My problem seems to have gone, but now i wonder if it will come back.