contact148

how do i check temp sender unit??

my car takes forever to warm up like 15 mins of city driving or 10 of hwy with the heat off if i turn it on it take even longer

injectors how to check them? it starts fine runs fine thru the idle is slight rougher then summer


the spark plugs are orig car has 124,000km on it

Glyn M Ruck

You need to replace those plugs - they should have been replaced at 100,000Km - earlier with your short trips & I would change the thermostat immediately. The vehicle should not take that long to warm up. MB Thermostats fail open. I'm surprised you have not had a P0128.

Bosch can dribble & flow test the injectors - You can't. All you can do is replace them. You need a whole Bosch rig to test them.

I would just toss the temp sensor. Hard to DIY test accurately.

contact148

t-stat was done this summer as well as the coolant was changed oem parts

the warm up times are at -7 to -10 c

I have the plugs but cant do them till spring way too cold

I get crappy milage too currently im getting 15.5-16.1L per 100km city

Ill replace the temp sensor 1st as its cheap and easy will i lose much coolant ?

I have NO check engine lights

LILBENZ230

You may have a pending P0128. My car had that before the CEL came on. It took a while for the CEL to actually come on, I have no idea how long the pending code was there. Glyn is right that it shouldn't take that long to warm up. Definitely running rich.

Glyn M Ruck

Your consumption is awful

LILBENZ230

What is that, 20mpg? Mine is like that with the stuck thermostat (what little I have driven it in this condition). If it's not getting to optimum temperature that could be the cause of your problems.

contact148

scanned it today with an obd2 reader and NO codes


I did find a very minor coolant leak last friday (upper rad hose at the t-stat houseing clamp was loose) leak was small as i lost only about 200ml anyways today the car seemed to warm up faster and had more power through it said i was 16.1L per 100km

I do have snow tires on they are softer and i have the tranny in winter mode so 2nd gear starts for me

going to call dealer tomorrow to get price on the temp sensor how much coolant will i lose if i pull it without draining some out?

Glyn M Ruck

Very little coolant loss changing sensor if you are prepared with the new one. My consumption runs up into the 14l/100 area when cold & soon settles down into the 10s/100 & untimately low 9's/100

Cruising at 100Km/h fully warm typical would be 9.21/9.31/100 on the flat. Obviously climbs back into the 10's pretty quickly if you floor it or climb a steep hill. Yours is a 4Matic so expect a little worse.

Also suggest you clean your MAF if this has not been done.

euromedic

Ive had the same thing happen. Drained about a quart of oil from the pan, I believe there is about 7 quarts in there now. So far, so good. No sensor activation and car computer states engine oil level ok.

contact148

to be safe send a sample to blackstone this way your sure

got my temp sender ordered ill get it friday or sat

contact148

got the temp sensor and installed it today (cold out too -14c) lucky it was a 5 min job with little loss of coolant

the old one was stuck and i had to pull it out with vice grips after i removed the clip


the old sensor was covered in a black/brown film thats NOT easy to remove the new one is bright gold

drove home from work and it appeared to warm up faster

will see in the morning from a dead cold condition

Glyn M Ruck

Keep us informed - anyway you have nice new coolant in there so the new sensor should stay clean.

After you pull the clip old sensors are inclined to be like pulling teeth to get out.

contact148

well got the oil overfilled light again today

so I checked it 8.2 to 8.4L

decided to change the oil and so I did it and put in 7.5L waited ten mins but it still said to wait before checking was at work so i had to leave anyways ill check it in the am and keep an eye on it in dyno mode

oil did smell of fuel too cold to do injectors it will have to wait 2 months

local company will check and rebuild injectors (i need to remove them) for $150.00 canadian so ill do that in the spring

Glyn M Ruck

Not having much luck. Keep & eye on the fuel dilution. You might have to do one more oil change to carry you the two months until you stop this problem - dependent on mileage covered.

It must be a damn dribbling injector. The only other thing it could be is bad O2 sensors causing it to run too rich but that would throw an O2 sensor code & a fuel trim code.

We should be seeing a fuel trim code anyway - I'll bet that the injector dribbles when the car is shut down until it bleeds off the fuel rail pressure but that the ECU can control it adequately with the engine running.

contact148

is there a fuel pressure spec for this car IE hook up the guage turn engine on then off and wait and watch pressure drop or hold

what pressure should the car hold off and for how long??

Glyn M Ruck

The fuel pressure spec is 3.8 bar. I have no holding time spec. Pressure check valve is at end of rail - see pdf.

Here is injector pull method. Ignore different air box.

contact148

thanks glyn

Im going to call around some wreckers and see if someone has a used set

be easier for me to drop the used ones off for rebuild then do a quick swap rather then have my car down for a few days plus its supposed to be -5C only for the next 2 days... warm enough for the hour ill need to swap them!

Glyn M Ruck

I'm impressed that you have found someone who rebuids them cost effectively in this throw away age of ours.

I hope that fixes it - we are fast running out of options & I'm confounded at no codes unless my theory is correct.

The ECU has the ability to shut down an injector that is really bad - or at least try to. But then you would have a misfire.

contact148

well we shall see im really hopeing they say at least 1 injector is leaking as that will end this if they are all ok Im at a loss im out of options at that point as ive NO codes or pending codes

I thought 25.00 per injector was a very good price this company dose injectors only and has been there for years they have the equip to do bosch testing too

contact148

just an update

replaced the spark plugs and had the injectors serviced (removed them and cleaned) a few weeks ago I park in the exact same spot and have been watching the oil level it has stayed the SAME at 7.0L

it was at 7.2 after the service but after a 2 hour hwy drive at 120kmh the level dropped and has stayed at 7.0L for allmost 2 weeks

milage has all improved slightly

Glyn M Ruck

Good news. I'm holding thumbs for you.

02240

I had an oil change and the gas cap replaced at the benz dealership. On my way home a warning said oil level too high(reduce engine oil) or something like that. An ENORMOUS cloud of smoke came out the exhaust when I floored it and then it died. It started right back up and I drove it back, but they're no advisors there on Saturday(won't know til Monday). Any and all comments(as to what happened) would be greatly appreciated

mleskovar

Common problem. The oil evacuation tube wasn't pushed in all the way so some old oil remained and the addition of 8.5 quarts made it over full. It's possible to blow some seals if you continue driving it without lowering the level.

Glasgow Gold

An old topic, I know, but a fun one.

I just got the "Reduce Oil Level" malfunction warning yesterday for the first time. Very dramatic, Mercedes! Even includes the red screen of death.

Smelled like burning oil but made it to my destination, which was just a few minutes away (probably lucky). Strangely, once I turned off the car and checked the oil level, it said ok. Smell gone and car driving fine several times since.

Since the light came on at almost exactly 92k mi, perhaps it is just my car's way of saying, "Welcome to 92k jack azz. It's pretty much near the end here. I'm going to blow up before you know it. Eff you."

contact148

well Im bumping this again as my oil level is climbing once again

Im in ontario canada weather has gotten cold since late dec been under freezing a few weeks then above and such

I park outside of my shop in the exact same spot Ive taken to check the oil level once weekley since this all started levels seem to stay pretty constant UNTILL it gets cold then my oil level climbs about 100ml every few days according to the display

milage when engine actually warmed up fulley and doing 80km/h stop lights every few k is around 12l/100km thats with the snow tires on and winter gas that allways drops the milage

so I drive 7 mins to work 5 days a week maybe 5 km each way car NEVER fully heats up I do errands and such around town car JUST reaches full temp but drops if i turn the heat on. I rarely goes on the hwy in the winter.

my wife took it for a 3hr each way trip and the oil level dropped 300ML

when the weather was above freezeing the level stays fine


SO how long does the engine need to be run at full operating temp for any fuel/water to be evaporated from the oil????

my oil filler cap when its cold out is allways gooey as well. when its warm out its clean

any ideas here guys im pulling my hair out

also NO pending codes