Trunk Won't Open Electronically
#26
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
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2006 C230 Sport
Hi all, i know i'm reviving an old thread here but I have this same problem on my C32 and there seem to two options on all the parts websites for the trunk latch/lock.
One version is "w/ keyless" and the other is not. One looks like it has a shorter cable too. Anyone know what exactly that means?
Also, I se that you guys had to wire the new plugs in a specific way, does that mean you soldered them?
Thanks in advance!
One version is "w/ keyless" and the other is not. One looks like it has a shorter cable too. Anyone know what exactly that means?
Also, I se that you guys had to wire the new plugs in a specific way, does that mean you soldered them?
Thanks in advance!
It's free to join - http://epc.startekinfo.com/epc/
with your vin number, you can find the correct part.
#28
MBWorld Fanatic!
While this seems to be a slightly different problem than I had,
before you go spending mad money on parts, if you pull the handle
and it gradually just stops opening the trunk, and you are forced to use the key
(and it works with the key) try taking it apart, and checking for contact the switch that goes into the handle. This is a common problem on the coupe and just requires bending the metal piece that presses the switch ever so gently in the handle assembly.
Taking it apart if pretty self explanatory.
before you go spending mad money on parts, if you pull the handle
and it gradually just stops opening the trunk, and you are forced to use the key
(and it works with the key) try taking it apart, and checking for contact the switch that goes into the handle. This is a common problem on the coupe and just requires bending the metal piece that presses the switch ever so gently in the handle assembly.
Taking it apart if pretty self explanatory.
#29
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Location: New Hampshire
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C 32 AMG & FG2 Civic Si
thanks for all the help. i was able to install a new lock and with the pictures, it wasn't too bad. The only part that I found unclear was if I should disconnect the end of the cable (which the ball at the end) from the lock or from the other part that does the pulling. once i realized i needed to disconnect it from the other side (the part further back from the lock), it was pretty smooth sailing.
thanks again guys for detailing this all out for others to use!
thanks again guys for detailing this all out for others to use!
#30
Hi,
I signed in simply to say thanks. This is the ultimate thread on this broken trunk subject and LadyBnz and firstdown80 (and all the other contributors) deserve big thanks!
Worked great on my 2004 E500.
For anyone interested, here is the offending piece (I think there are 2) that breaks off...
I signed in simply to say thanks. This is the ultimate thread on this broken trunk subject and LadyBnz and firstdown80 (and all the other contributors) deserve big thanks!
Worked great on my 2004 E500.
For anyone interested, here is the offending piece (I think there are 2) that breaks off...
Last edited by guentjo; 06-20-2014 at 01:55 PM.
#31
Plese any help!!
I have a 02 c240 and. In the dash im getting the message that says "trunk open". But its totally close .. Also the trunk button by the driver side the light stays lit. Can anyone tell me how to repair this .. Or what you suggest .. ?
Thank you for the attention.
Thank you for the attention.
#32
I've got this same problem and will try out the fix and re-wire of the connection. The phone number no longer matches the website above, but I will find out which "lock" among the many listed fits the 240 I drive.
#33
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Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Scottsdale, Arizona
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2006 C230 Sport
it's free for a year and you renew it every year for free as long as it is yearly.
Use your vin number and everything you want to know about your car will show up. If you run into a problem signing up, call Mercedes US. I had a problem registering because the car was registered with the previous owner, sorted that out quickly with them on the phone.
Here is another site you may want to visit - http://www.mbwholesaleparts.com/
Last edited by firstdown80; 10-24-2015 at 03:33 AM.
#35
I have not been to this site lately as my C32 has been relatively trouble free. However, when my trunk would not open the other day, the information in this thread was invaluable! Thank you to LadyBnz, firstdown80 and all of the other contributors. Having the details on the new plug was especially helpful! Thanks again!!!
#36
im looking for the name of the part that is labeled #22
Yea! My research and patience paid off with the help of the forums I fixed the broken trunk latch on my C240 Benz.
Here is some additional information for those with the same problem as previously described above. The part I replaced was a latch assembly with a short cable and electrical connection but is called a "Lock" on the packing slip.
P/N 171-750-00-85 Lock, Sale price was $58.40
Also P/N 037-545-65-28 Plug, $2.72 is needed to complete the repair.
The part has been updated from a 3 pin electrical connector to a 4 pin connector and is why the new 4 pin connector is needed.
The small connector has tiny numbers on them 1-4 and need to be wired accordingly. On the new 4 pin connector #1 pin is not used.
The plastic connector has a lock that has to be lifted for easy removal of the wires. Once removed each wire has a lock that has to be pushed with a small screwdriver to unlock each wire. To avoid mistakes remove one wire at the time and connect it to the new connector.
1-not used
2-brown/yellow
3-brown
4-white
I tested the unit before installing trim pieces and all trunk release buttons worked great, door, smart key, and green trunk release buttons.
To attach the upper cable simply pry up the plastic covering over the lock cylinder assembly and pop out the ball and cable through the slot.
When reinstalling trunk liner be sure to press the large part of the plastic rivets all the way flush to seat them before pushing the center rivet into them.
I purchased my parts on line through:
Mercedes-Benz of Monterey, Stah Motor Company.
Ordered on a Sunday and received Tuesday. Fast service and a great price too. Same part was over $100.00 elsewhere and I was billed less than posted on thier website. I hope this helps some others, and thanks for all the help I received.
Here is some additional information for those with the same problem as previously described above. The part I replaced was a latch assembly with a short cable and electrical connection but is called a "Lock" on the packing slip.
P/N 171-750-00-85 Lock, Sale price was $58.40
Also P/N 037-545-65-28 Plug, $2.72 is needed to complete the repair.
The part has been updated from a 3 pin electrical connector to a 4 pin connector and is why the new 4 pin connector is needed.
The small connector has tiny numbers on them 1-4 and need to be wired accordingly. On the new 4 pin connector #1 pin is not used.
The plastic connector has a lock that has to be lifted for easy removal of the wires. Once removed each wire has a lock that has to be pushed with a small screwdriver to unlock each wire. To avoid mistakes remove one wire at the time and connect it to the new connector.
1-not used
2-brown/yellow
3-brown
4-white
I tested the unit before installing trim pieces and all trunk release buttons worked great, door, smart key, and green trunk release buttons.
To attach the upper cable simply pry up the plastic covering over the lock cylinder assembly and pop out the ball and cable through the slot.
When reinstalling trunk liner be sure to press the large part of the plastic rivets all the way flush to seat them before pushing the center rivet into them.
I purchased my parts on line through:
Mercedes-Benz of Monterey, Stah Motor Company.
Ordered on a Sunday and received Tuesday. Fast service and a great price too. Same part was over $100.00 elsewhere and I was billed less than posted on thier website. I hope this helps some others, and thanks for all the help I received.
#37
I also had the same problem with trunklid motor jut going "Wrrrrr" and had to open it with key.
This was a C200 W203. Maybe it can help somebody.
The problem seems to be the two "pins" missing on opposite sides of this gear.
I drill a 8mm hole in the plastic about here
Ont the gear there are two hole. I suppose the must be a pin or something that is now missing.
I took the stem of a pop rivet and cut it about 12mm and pry it in the hole.
Afterwards the pin became a bit loose and I took it out and replace it with a screw with a small head. PROBLEM SOLVED!!
You don`t have to unhook the cable to do this job. Just took it out as mentioned earlier on this thread and unplug the electric wires.
This was a C200 W203. Maybe it can help somebody.
The problem seems to be the two "pins" missing on opposite sides of this gear.
I drill a 8mm hole in the plastic about here
Ont the gear there are two hole. I suppose the must be a pin or something that is now missing.
I took the stem of a pop rivet and cut it about 12mm and pry it in the hole.
Afterwards the pin became a bit loose and I took it out and replace it with a screw with a small head. PROBLEM SOLVED!!
You don`t have to unhook the cable to do this job. Just took it out as mentioned earlier on this thread and unplug the electric wires.
Last edited by Ben C Photo; 03-27-2019 at 09:45 AM.
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Twapster (03-22-2022)
#38
Problem Solved! Thanks so much.......same issue motor spinning freely when opening with the fob key, so took the lock mechanism off and noted the bottom gear missing the plastic cogs that I guess when turned via the motor will actuate the release mechanism,
Drilled a pilot hole same as above pic and managed to find an appropriate size pin (same size as the end of a pop rivet and cut it to about 1.5cm in length and managed to jam it in the hole an BAM, works fine again.
It was a bit tedious to find a correct thickness pin (I ended up finding right thickness wire lying around and cut it with pliers), and also had to trim a couple times so the pin could move freely without jamming up on the inner wall of the lock. Furthermore I had to superglue that tiny pin onto the base of a drill bit just the be able to shove it into the hole easily (fingers too hard to hold ) and then push it to the gear hole, then quickly snapped it off and the pin stayed perfectly protruding also a little out the back of the white gear cog.
I also added some superglue via toothpick onto the base where the pin slid into the gear just to increase the likelihood it wont fall out in the future. So far no issues.
Drilled a pilot hole same as above pic and managed to find an appropriate size pin (same size as the end of a pop rivet and cut it to about 1.5cm in length and managed to jam it in the hole an BAM, works fine again.
It was a bit tedious to find a correct thickness pin (I ended up finding right thickness wire lying around and cut it with pliers), and also had to trim a couple times so the pin could move freely without jamming up on the inner wall of the lock. Furthermore I had to superglue that tiny pin onto the base of a drill bit just the be able to shove it into the hole easily (fingers too hard to hold ) and then push it to the gear hole, then quickly snapped it off and the pin stayed perfectly protruding also a little out the back of the white gear cog.
I also added some superglue via toothpick onto the base where the pin slid into the gear just to increase the likelihood it wont fall out in the future. So far no issues.