fookoo303

Are there any other parts that you recommend I should get? Also, How much fuel should I remove before opening the hatch? And do you think the Bosch unit will be okay or should i get the Pierburg?

Glyn M Ruck

I would have tanks below half if possible. The rubber sealing rings may need replacing. You are fine with either Bosch or Pierburg. Don't create sparks while tank is open. Keep a fire extinguisher close at hand.

http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/w203/w203/fp.html

fookoo303

is siphoning the only method to remove fuel or is there a drain plug on the bottom of the tank?

ontmiss

no drain plug for sure

johnand

Yep, siphoning is the only way. When mine died at half a tank of fuel, the fuel was still about 1" from the top of the tank, so you need to siphon before cracking the covers, or you'll get fuel inside the car.

fookoo303

Hey John, How did you remove the lock ring? Did you buy the tool or did a hammer and screwdriver suffice?

johnand

My 07 has the new style rings, that are just a stainless band clamp. But, I have read by several others here, that a hammer and a screwdriver work just fine on the old lock rings.

Glyn M Ruck

+1 - sorry - I should have mentioned the new and the old. I gave you methods for the old which you have.

fookoo303

I just wanted to give an update. I replaced the fuel pump last week and the car runs great. Idles much smoother and drives smoother. Sometimes I think the engine died mid drive because I don't feel the engine anymore.

I did replace it with the bosch unit, and it seems to work well. But the only thing im noticing is that the fuel level sensor responds much slower than the oem one. I had my car parked on a hill and when I drove off, it took a couple miles before the fuel level gauge settled down to where it actually was. Maybe it needs to broken in? I'll report back on that after a few more tanks.

pcy

The fuel level displayed on the cluster is an 'average' over a period of time. I don't know the variables used in calculating that 'average'. So, I'd just monitor and see if that gets better...

Sherrie

Would love to know the part number you ordered? I'm in the same exact boat here... same layout on my C203SS

pcy

Paid $188 for a new fuel pump from BMWmercedesparts dot com (Husker autogroup in Nebraska).
Fuel pump part number is A 209 470 02 94.

I also bought the fuel filter+sending unit (that's on the drivers side) $ 215.
A 209 470 13 94.

sporta

Sorry to hijack this post, but we are having a hell of a time removing the ring...we loosened the clamp so it will basically "spin" around the ring nut...at most we get like 1/4" of movement...we have tried renting the universal fuel pump removal tool from Autozone, a chissel and hammer at the split, a home made 4 prong tool (need to revisit that one,,,the all thread keeps bending so we are going to try hardened bolts) and its driving us NUTS!!! Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

sporta

Just realized I was answering my own question LOL. When we replaced both the fuel pump and sending unit in my Dad's C230 Sport (Flex Fuel) we loosened the clamp as much as possible and actually had to take a flat head screwdriver and help the clamp off...(I know probably not the correct way but we were desperate) and then used a universal ring remover tool we rented at autozone to make the ring budge..hope this helps someone in the future

SweeneyD24

Guys,

My 2001 W203 is always slow to start, 2 & 1/2 turn. Sometimes when i release the key early, the engine will start! But not always. So i was thinking that MAYBE there's an issue with the fuel pump, not sending enough fuel when cranking the engine. Anyone can help me on that. Any advice will be much appreciated.

Russell Ormerod

Maybe you should check the pressures first

SweeneyD24

Thanks for the prompt reply Russel. I'll look into it.

Russell Ormerod

Check specifically if it holds pressure when turning off

C230 Sport Coup

Yeah, fuel pressure. You can buy a kit from Harbor fright (Hey it's Halloween eh?)
for like $20 OR you can actually borrow one for free from OReilly or AutoZone
(definitely OReilly) .
Small suggestion, rather than try to connect to the fuel rail with it under pressure, or
bleeding off the pressure and spraying fuel everywhere, pull the fuse
from inside the trunk, then turn over till it uses the existing pressure in the line and dies.
If you don't have a fuse diagram, they are around here to download.
I think it's #7. Ha, I pulled it, had my car stored at my sisters, and pulled it so my
nephew wouldn't take it for a joy ride.
Then connect and test. Should be I think 55 lbs?
Have you ever changed the fuel filter? Thats an every 60K mile sort of thing.

As far turning the key, that whole process is via the canbus, so, hmmm....
could be the solenoid is getting slow. How many miles on the starter?
I got about 140K out of my starter and 200K out of my fuel pump, while replacing the filter
on the correct intervals.