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UPDATE: Can't find Pro-Line PPL-35610 oil filter for gasket.
Went to autozone- three items, none an oil filter
Called Pep Boys- Nope
Called KIA- without knowing what year Kia, they can't tell me either. The O ring is not the same size for every kia assembly kit.
Called Mercedes- they have a vacuum pump, but from what I can tell, we'd have to crack it open to see the O ring on the inside right?
WTF?! Has it occurred to anyone that this is why most people eventually have to order the whole new vacuum pump?!?!?!
Thanks Sam,
I just wish someone knew what the part is at mercedes b/c I feel like if that sucker isn't a PERFECT fit, I'm gonna be stuck buying a whole vacuum pump. Has anyone successfully used the O ring from the purolator you know?
Well that is the filter they say works it just has to be stretched a little so I would say go for it as it is relatively inexpensive. I bet you could find one at your local parts store now that you know what car it fits.
So I installed the new gaskets on the old vacuum pump. First major DIY car project. Few IMPORTANT notes.
#1 If you follow numb nutz advice and use the T-20 to remove the star shaped screws, you will be screwed. I, too, stripped it almost immediatly. However, I had the sense to stop, go to autozone and ask someone. I was told I need to use the T-25, he helped me and we got it off w/o having to buy the $200 part.
#2 Buy the whatever L36510 oil filter, take that big O ring to a mercedes dealership and ask the parts guy if he's got something that size. The parts guy at the dealership gave me one from a diesel filter and it was wider and a tiny bit smaller- fit perfect! I had an extra pair of hands help stretch it on (autozone dude).
#3 The vacuum pump didn't want to go back in, after 10 minutes I got pissed, jiggled it and it slid in. Go figure. So far no leaks.
Total Cost: $0.00 (dealer didn't charge me for any of the gaskets )
Time: 3 hours including purchasing/returning tools/taking pump to autozone.
Last edited by scottonfire; 11-24-2013 at 10:18 PM.
Oops, My bad. T-25 it is. I couldn't remember which driver I used, hence the "iirc" when I mentioned T-20. Anyways, glad you got everything fixed. Wow you have a nice dealer. The only things I get for free are sales materials and lattes from their machine.
Last edited by slammer111; 11-26-2013 at 06:06 AM.
Lol. Gotta go to Beverly Hills Benz where the air is crisp. They don't worry too much about $20 of parts when suckers are dropping 5 grand on a windshield.
I performed this fix and I'm glad to say that it is no longer leaking. Unfortunately I broke the connector that goes on the tube, as it was very dry and brittle. I was able to put it back together with glue and electrical tape, but would like to buy a replacement. Does anybody know the part number. I cant find it anywhere short of going to the stealer.
First off, I want to thank everyone in this forum for all their help and for saving me thousands of $$$ at this point. I love this forum.
So my '05 W203 has 147,000 miles and may have had this vacuum pump leak for a while although I didn't notice the burnt oil smell coming in from the AC system until not long ago.
Anyways, I did all three versions of the fixes mentioned here and only one worked. First, I replaced the metal gasket and the small o-ring. Car's idle improved but still vibrated at idle in gear and with the brake on. Oil smell returned after a few weeks.
Then I pulled the pump off again and replaced the bigger o-ring using the proline filter o-ring. Again, idle improved but still vibrated.
After a few weeks, the burnt oil smell returned and I checked the area and sure enough there was oil everywhere. I bit the bullet and bought a new pump and replaced it and OMG! Car feels so much better! Idle is very smooth and almost no vibration (there is still a slight vibration but MB told me that my belt tensioner needs to be replaced and I agree). Throttle response improved, the tone of the engine under load when going from say 1st to second gear or from 2nd to 3rd gear changed too… it is not as "throaty" as it used to be. It's like it's a different car! MPG has also improved! I guess my pump was that bad...
Honestly, I don't know what it is but in my case a new pump was the only fix. While I was at the dealer waiting to get the part, I spoke to one of the guys there about the fact that I had replaced the gaskets already but the pump was still obviously leaking and he said that they just wear out, not just the o-rings but the metal parts also and so the clearances become too great and the assembly that mates with the camshaft starts leaking where it goes into the pump.
Maybe this explains why the metal gasket looks fine but the leak seems to come out past it, and why MB does not have a P/N to supersede it with. Maybe the metal gasket doesn't really ever seal 100%, but maybe when the pump is new, the metal shaft assembly that mates with the camshaft is very tight and doesn't leak. Once it wears out, oil gets past it and consequently past the metal gasket which wasn't leak-proof to begin with and that's when we see the leak, and after that point, no matter what you do…the pump doesn't work as well as a new one.
Just a thought…Again, thank you so much for this forum!
First off, I want to thank everyone in this forum for all their help and for saving me thousands of $$$ at this point. I love this forum.
So my '05 W203 has 147,000 miles and may have had this vacuum pump leak for a while although I didn't notice the burnt oil smell coming in from the AC system until not long ago.
Anyways, I did all three versions of the fixes mentioned here and only one worked. First, I replaced the metal gasket and the small o-ring. Car's idle improved but still vibrated at idle in gear and with the brake on. Oil smell returned after a few weeks.
Then I pulled the pump off again and replaced the bigger o-ring using the proline filter o-ring. Again, idle improved but still vibrated.
After a few weeks, the burnt oil smell returned and I checked the area and sure enough there was oil everywhere. I bit the bullet and bought a new pump and replaced it and OMG! Car feels so much better! Idle is very smooth and almost no vibration (there is still a slight vibration but MB told me that my belt tensioner needs to be replaced and I agree). Throttle response improved, the tone of the engine under load when going from say 1st to second gear or from 2nd to 3rd gear changed too… it is not as "throaty" as it used to be. It's like it's a different car! MPG has also improved! I guess my pump was that bad...
Honestly, I don't know what it is but in my case a new pump was the only fix. While I was at the dealer waiting to get the part, I spoke to one of the guys there about the fact that I had replaced the gaskets already but the pump was still obviously leaking and he said that they just wear out, not just the o-rings but the metal parts also and so the clearances become too great and the assembly that mates with the camshaft starts leaking where it goes into the pump.
Maybe this explains why the metal gasket looks fine but the leak seems to come out past it, and why MB does not have a P/N to supersede it with. Maybe the metal gasket doesn't really ever seal 100%, but maybe when the pump is new, the metal shaft assembly that mates with the camshaft is very tight and doesn't leak. Once it wears out, oil gets past it and consequently past the metal gasket which wasn't leak-proof to begin with and that's when we see the leak, and after that point, no matter what you do…the pump doesn't work as well as a new one.
Just a thought…Again, thank you so much for this forum!
Nelson
Hallo guys. Does this issue apply also to the M111.943 engine? I have an R170 slk 200 kompressor and want to know if I should Check this
^ Yes, the engine oil is the medium that you're pumping. Therefore this is normal.
Are you sure about that? Why would you need a pump chamber full of oil to create vacuum? vacuum pumps would typically pump only air no?
I'm trying to prepare to do this by understanding all the components but see some confusing aspects to the actual pump to cam housing (head/block) gasket
on MichaelKane's pic of a 2005 c230 pump, it clearly appears to be a flat gasket.
When looking at the available parts and parts drawings, you see a flat and an O-ring type gasket, both of which are labeled as "Pump to Camshaft Housing"
vac pump shaped O-ring gasket 271-238-00-80
vac pump Flat gasket 271-238-01-80
And seeing the parts drawings for 2003-2005 C230's it shows as the shaped O-ring type
Can anyone clear up what is going on here? Is there a shaped o-ring in a groove on the cam side?
when looking at replacement pumps, it looks like they all come with a flat gasket stuck on somehow.Or is that just a plate and not even the gasket at all?
Last edited by onehighfocus; 08-11-2014 at 03:09 AM.
By the "large gasket" are you referring to #15 (271-238-00-80) in the drawing?
Or the flat gasket (271-238-01-80) that is on the pump?
*edit*
Looks like the shaped rubber o-ring gasket is actually used on the c180 m271 engines. I wonder if they are plagued with oil leak problems as well.
Last edited by onehighfocus; 08-19-2014 at 04:49 AM.
I've been waiting to do this repair for some time, as mine was not really leaking (I did the rubber gasket replacement over a year ago) but I WAS experiencing the rough idle and I did have a faint smell of burnt oil in the cabin. I did other repairs to fix the rough idle but nothing returned the car back to the way it idled when I drove it off the showroom floor, until now.
I found the part on sale with a 20% off discount at Auto Parts Warehouse for $146.36. YES. I decided for $150 I will try this repair to see if the rough idle could be addressed. The repair took me about 45 minutes; the tight clearance was a PITA. I did not loosen the engine hook bolt but chose to loosen the two bolts and work them out by hand.
After completing the repair my 2005 C230 runs like a champ! The idle is back to normal, the car is more peppy and I am hoping the faint burnt oil smell disappears. I'll post an update in a few weeks.
A big thank you to the board for your help and for sharing your knowledge. I have saved so much money doing these types of repairs myself. Thank you.
So the (used) replacement pump I installed has failed. Had to do this job again.
The big (main pump) O-ring I used was off a 2008 Kia Sorrento. I used the ring off a FRAM CH9999. It's an almost perfect fit. The only "problem" is that the thickness is larger than the original ring, so the flat cover plate now "bulges" by maybe 0.5mm between 2-3 of the bolts. But it does seal properly. I'm sure a small loss in vacuum caused by this is no big deal.
The bigger problem - the dealer now lists the gasket as 271-238-03-80. The original 271-238-00-80 gasket is no more, though it can still be had (old stock) at USA distributors such as RMEuropean. Interestingly enough, the dealer now only shows the "newer" pump 271-230-11-65, which comes with the gasket 271-238-01-80 attached.
So now there are now the following for the M271:
2 pumps. 271-230-09-65 (came with my car, has the groove), 271-230-11-65 (includes flat gasket and presumably doesn't have the groove)
2 gaskets. 271-238-00-80 (thin ring, came with my car), 271-238-01-80 (flat with 3 clips). (**update** - 271-238-03-80 doesn't apply to our version of the M271)
Can anyone shed some light on this?
Last edited by slammer111; 03-28-2021 at 11:57 PM.
Slammer,
In my case I did all of the steps, replaced the o-rings, gaskets, etc. all to no avail. In the end the pump was just plain worn out. I think something that has been getting missed here is that the pump is not supposed to be leaking oil to begin with. Once the vaccum pimp wears out the oil starts leaking from the area around the "base" of the rotating part of the pump that mates with the exhaust cam. The oil then uses the same two notches that are used to guide the gasket into place to make its way down and outside where it then drips since there is no "rubber-against-metal" the oil will leak by 100% of the time. That's just the oil portion of the problem, then there's the fact that since it is worn out it isn't doing its job as a vaccum pump as well or at all anymore so even if you do all that is required to stop the oil leakage and even more, manage to stop the oil leak, you will still be left with a "rough idle" condition which will continue to haunt you. As the person that posted above you I also "bit" the bullet and just bought a new pump... Once I installed it and started the car, I knew at that moment that the problem was finally fixed. Car runs completely different, so smooth! My car has 167k miles now. I did it at around 155k... Burnt oil smell is all gone, car idles perfect, brakes are smooth and strong. My advice... Just buy the new pump and install it and move on to enjoying your car again.
Mine needs to be replaced as well, I think it's common for most 05' W203's. Great DIY tutorial, thanks! Btw, I found a Pierburg part for $144 here (seems to be cheaper than any other source I've found for this quality of an OEM brand) http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/6742...ump-724807070/
Exactly what does this vacuum pump do for the engine????????
Sorry to bring up the old thread, again, but can anyone give me safe way to clean all of the oil off of the back of the engine bay, wiring, o2 sensors, and top of transmission from where all of the oil leaked on?
In addition, the front leaking cam sensors?
Thanks! Just want to make sure I'm not using anything I'm not supposed to be using.
Lol man you're everywhere....
I soaked blue shop towels in engine degreaser and wiped the back of the engine and top of the transmission (cold engine). Spray the degreaser on the rag then wipe, rather than spraying on the engine. For the front cam sensors I did the same but covered the belt and pulleys with shop towels.
My entire engine harness was replaced along with the O2 sensors for free under MB campaign last year. They did not replace the leaking cam sensors, but they are cheap (~45 each). Check with MB South ATL and verify your car has had the work done, otherwise they owe you free work!
I did the o ring repair on my vac pump as well, but in addition to the o ring I used some black rtv gasket maker as well. 5k miles and it's still dry back there...
Haha, I am @RWD! I'm cracked out on this site! I had the service campaign done a couple of weeks ago, but they only added the adapters, and did NOT clean the Cam Sensors.
11-19-2013, 02:30 PM
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T-25 it is. I couldn't remember which driver I used, hence the "iirc" when I mentioned T-20. Anyways, glad you got everything fixed. Wow you have a nice dealer. The only things I get for free are sales materials and lattes from their machine.
Vacume pump replacement
