paul-the-limey

Hi Everyone,

I am looking into the possibility of changing my own brake pads on my 2001 W203 C240 and was wondering if there were any online guides on how to do it (step by step). ps. I live in the UK so can't visit Tire Rack - Sorry!!

I've heard that it takes about 1 minute from the time you have taken the wheel off. Can it really be this simple? I have also heard that the front brake pads only have wear sensors and that these must be changed at the same time as the old ones will not be removable without breaking them. I have learnt that the rear pads have no wear sensors.

I have also been informed that there could be one of three different types of pads for the 2001 W203 - pot luck as to which one's I have - I will need the full chassis number. Is that correct.


Cheers, Paul S

20FHK02

I took off one front brake pads for cleaning (due to an obvious groove on the rotor) a couple of days ago and it took me about 5 min. You need something to compress the piston (e.g. a C-clamp) and a towel or something around the brake fuild bottle in case it backs up due to the compression (happened to me ).

KWiK

reduce your fluid level, it's much too full if that is happening.

peet

Whatever you do - don't let the fluid get on your paint. Unless you want a stainless steel looking finish.

As to the original question, yes brake pads on MB's are extremely easy.

1) wheel off
2) loosen top caliper mount screw
3) take out bottom caliper mount screw
4) pivot caliper up using top screw as a pivot point
5) pull out pads
6) compress piston
7) install pads (with anti squeek paste of course)
8) lower caliper
9) reinstall screw and tighten to factory torque spec
10) tighten top screw to fac torque spec.

Sorry I don't have pics of where these screws are nor the torque specs but it's literally that easy.

If any of you have the torque specs, please share.. also slap on the caliper mount screw torques as well.

On american cars, the torque for the caliper is aroudn 25ft lbs and for the caliper bracket around 75ft lbs.

Peet

20FHK02

I didn't add any fuild or anything. I checked before the job and it was below the max level. Anyway, maybe too much moisture got mixed with the fluid or something...

20FHK02

The caliper mount screws are 12mm hex bolts. Very easy to distinguish. And the torque is around 25 ft-lb, I checked.

paul-the-limey

Thanks everyone,

My car went in for the 2nd B service today. I was expecting them to tell me the "world would end today" if I didn't do my pads immediately (as I asked a tyre fitter to check them 3 weeks ago and he told me that they were 90% worn and needed doing). To my surprise MB told me that they were only 50% worn on the rear and 60% worn on the front.

MB didn't try to take my trousers down:- is the world going mad

They did tell me that the fluid should be done as the car is 2 years old. I know water can affect the fluid but as the system has been air tight since new I think it can wait (at least until the pads need doing).

Thanks for all your advice though. Much appreciated.

Paul

nyca

buy a proper tool for piston compressing, not a C clamp. On VWs, the rear discs have a piston that must be turned while compressing, again requiring the proper tool. I don't know what MB has.

20FHK02

I did the front with a $2 C-clamp. Not sure about the rear though.

mleskovar

C clamp has always worked for me. Slotted pistons are turned only, not compressed. MB replaced my brake fluid during my last free service at 48K miles. You can get a brake fluid tester that checks for water in the fluid....that's why the fluid is replaced. Moisture can enter through the pressure release hole in the filler cap.

vadim

C-clamp *is* the proper tool in this paricular application. I'm pretty sure that there exists a 'proper' MB-branded service tool for that costing a lot more but essentially it does the same - pushes the piston back into the cylinder to free up room for a new pad.

Buellwinkle

C-clamp works well for most front brake calipers, most rear calipers require a special tool that you can buy or borrow from an auto supply store that rotate the piston back into the caliper. Some people have been known to use needle nose pliers but slip and cut the seal and that can't be good.

When using the c-clamp make sure to use an old pad between the piston and c-clap.

nyca

those pistons do not like to be compressed with any lateral force. Try these:

http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00947066000
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00946344000

You will never go back to the C clamp again after using the first one.