91RS

I'm not really sure when this started, but my car pulls to the right. I thought it was the tires (junk Pirellis). I replaced my worn out rears with Michelin Pilot Super Sports a WHILE ago. Then I replaced my fronts before they were worn because they rode so bad and I was fixing to go to Road Atlanta (this was also a while ago). Even with new tires it still pulls right. I swapped the fronts side to side and had no change. My alignment already has caster split (10* left and 10.5* right IIRC). The more forward control arms (torque arm??) were replaced a long while ago under warranty. Wheel bearings are tight. I've done like 4 alignments and made slight toe adjustments every time and none helped. I've thought about replacing the bushings on the other control arms, but I don't want to waste the money if it won't help.

C230 Sport Coup

Lo prof tires are suspectible to small angles in the road surface, and will pull one way or the other.
Typically in the US it will pull to the right since the roads are crowned in the center, so the water will flow off to the side. So, the roads all lean slightly to the right. Sucks.
I 1st noticed it in my car, as it came with 17/ 45's.
But I had another set of wheels, 16 /55's and they didn't pull at all.

91RS

The road crown is why I put in the caster split. I don't remember my car ever pulling with the stock wheels and when I first put the C63 wheels on.

Glyn M Ruck

These cars pull with the camber of the road.

You require to dial in one degree more castor on the passenger side. (max 2 degrees) Typically 10.6 & 9.6 degrees. All alignment shops in SA have this drummed into them by MBSA. You need three way fluted bolts to do this.

91RS

I've already got 3 fluted bolts installed now. I'll see if I can make the caster split larger without messing up the camber too bad. I'm fixing to buy bearings for my Quaife so I'll order one more fluted bolt just in case. Caster should be 9.6* on the left and 10.6* on the right since we drive on the right side of the road, correct?

Glyn M Ruck

Correct! - Benz allows up to 2 degrees. Put fluted bolts in the camber bushes as well if you battle to keep camber on spec. I always put bolts in all 4 locations when I buy a car.

91RS

Interesting. I usually run 7.5* on the Corvettes on both sides and they all drive perfectly straight so I was thinking 0.5* split would be around the max. I already had the 3 bolts put in to fix the camber when I lowered the car (slightly, less than 1"). Haven't had a problem ince with that.

Glyn M Ruck

Benz suspension set up & wheel angles with turn etc are very different to most cars. Benz runs comparatively high caster at the same time. With standard wheels & tyre sizes 1 deg more caster on passenger side usually works. As you increase the scrub radius on the front so more caster is required to correct tramlining & pull with road camber.

91RS

Yeah, 10* of caster is high for sure. I think other than the Corvette only a few Cadillacs run high caster in the GM world. I'll give it some more caster split and see what that does. I'd seen you talk about this before on here so that's why I gave it the 0.5* split I have now when I did the alignment after I lowered.

C230 Sport Coup

No one around here would have clue how to set the caster on a benz.
Well, I know what to do with my 100 coupon.
Dealer alignment.

samaritrey

Yeah good idea my car has never driven better
well after I took it back because it was not done correct the first time lol

Norwichdelta06

AGREE!! Thats why you pay the 180 for the Dealer Alignment. You cant bring a BMW or Mercedes to any wheel alignment place.

Moviela

I have found that off-road 4x4 shops do the best alignment, and are not shy to buy the shims or bolts required to do the job. The alignment that gave me the best straight and level performance was not done with a fancy-smanchy electronic googa machine. He used a piece of string.

samaritrey

That'ss how my friends dad does it and it has always worked for them.

Norwichdelta06

funny thing! We did a repair job on this ladies Cadillac where it required an alignment. She kept bringing it back 3-4 times until we had herself sit in the vehicle to do the alignment. She was so heavy that it threw off the camber enough to have the car drift to one side

johnand

Most good alignment shops will actually add sand bags, etc to the drivers side floorboard to simulate having a driver in the seat. Some think it is complete overkill, but I have had the best alignments by shops that use that technique. I do the same thing when I do my own alignments. That reminds me, I owe the forum a write-up on how to do your own alignment with some carefully selected tools and techniques!

Glyn M Ruck

+1 - good alignment shops are gems & good Hunter & Bean or whatever machines in the right hands can work wonders.

LILBENZ230

John next time you're in Atlanta, align mine.. I've got the fluted bolts. No one else seems to be able to do it.

Glyn M Ruck

I find that staggering. With a top 4 wheel alignment machine it's dead simple.

LILBENZ230

I've compiled the specs now (see PM) and the fluted bolts are in. My problem lately has been the steering wheel being off center. It was off center one way, they corrected it and now it is off center the other way. I don't want to hit the roof if it is the cars fault but to me it seems like carelessness on behalf of the alignment guy that works at my indy. We're soon to have words if it isn't done right this 3rd time.

johnand

Matt,

Remember getting the steering dead center is difficult if there is ANY play in the suspension. Since you said your control arm bushings are shot, they may be a contributor to that off center steering wheel. I would recommend holding off on alignment until the suspension work is complete. Also, use of the MB recommended spreader bar when aligning will help in steering wheel alignment as well. Do you know if your shop uses one?

PS: I would gladly align your car next time I am in Atlanta

johnand

Well, look at Trey's response, and I know you know I had the same issue, that even the dealer had to do the alignment SEVERAL times before getting it right I agree it shouldn't be that hard because I did mine in my garage with a laser level, toe plates, tape measures, plumb bob, and a homemade camber/caster gauge.

LILBENZ230

I sent Glyn a PM. My car is getting the suspension work done tomorrow and the fluted bolts will be installed (all 4). I'm going to give them these alignment specs:

Camber: -1* both sides (to combat shoulder wear on tires)
Castor: 9.6* left, 10.6* right since my car is LHD
Toe: 0* both sides

That look right to you? That's what I've figured out during forum searches.

After the alignment is done, I'm mounting 4 new DWS tires. Then its own to the timing chain.. damn it is always something!

johnand

Don't think camber should be that negative, but is based on level of vehicle. I thought is was ~-.22 degrees on the specs I sent you.

Also, you should have a little toe in. 0°12' total toe.

Caster is correct.

LILBENZ230

.12 toe either side, -.22* camber on stock suspension. Gotcha.