1st time MB owner, C230K Coupe questions/observations...

[Mercendipity]

So, while I'm at it, I hope you guys don't mind if I pepper you with a bunch of questions/observations to get things rollin: 1) This car doesn't have the Bose system, so I wasn't expecting much from the sound coming in, but dang....the stock speakers SUCK (then again, this isn't unique to this car, in my experience most stock speaks are terrible...I guess I just assumed this being a Benz it'd be a little better than the crap they put in ricers hehe). So, first problem fixed: yesterday I ordered a set of Polk DB6501s for the front 6.5 slots. I'll most likely delete the rears. They suck even worse than the fronts. I prefer not having the weight in the car rather than letting them pollute my sound-stage. hehe I'm going to order a 5-channel Alpine amp this week (MRX-V60) and mount it under the passenger seat and eventually figure out a way to put a 8" sub in the right trunk fender-well facing inward/ported forward, or maybe just use a 8" sub in a box that I can take out when I need to use the trunk. I haven't decided 100% yet, but I don't think I'll bother replacing the rear 5.25s and will just run with the 6.5s up front and the sub. The prior owner replaced the stock head unit with a mid-tier JVC (Phase Linear) that isn't anything special, but it already has an ipod hookup wired in and produces decent sound despite the incredibly bad speakers. So, to save money I'll wait a few months to replace the head unit until I find one with built-in NAV that I like. Most of the in-dash NAV units on the market right now are way over-priced and all seem to have major weaknesses. It was kinda surprising and disappointing to find out that Pioneers' and Kenwoods' best $1000+ NAV systems are only so-so. It appears the best bang for the buck is Sony's 660BT since it uses Tom Tom for NAV. 2) I've noticed a sharp "knocking" sound from the front left suspension when hitting pot-holes/rough pavement at odd angles. When I took the car in to have the oil changed, they also rotated the tires and said I have a "loose" ball joint on the front left wheel and gave me a loose figure of about ~$400 to fix both sides. From what I've read, this means I'll need to replace the upper control arm, which runs about ~$135 online. Can someone enlighten me further? I'd say the best thing to do would be to replace both the left and right upper control arms for ~$270 and have someone I know do the work for cheaper (or do the work myself). I'm wondering if its also advisable to replace the lower control arms and, while I'm at it, the rears? I'm fairly sure I can get the work done for less than I was quoted, but am curious what some of the car gods in here think. 3) The sun visor/sun-roof is non-functional. While the sun-visor is currently stuck open, thankfully the sun-ROOF is stuck CLOSED because it rains a LOT in Portland this time of year! I've read on this forum (and others) there are some home-brew remedies. Rumor is the stealership wants some ridiculous amount in excess of $2000 to work on what is essentially a 30 minute fix that can be done at home with a few cheap parts. If anyone has any other info to offer on this I'd much appreciate it! 4) I've researched some performance mods and I think I'm going to go with a pulley to start off with. I found ASPracing's offering and it's somewhat pricey (with the core charge) at $750, but appears its my only option since Kleeman no longer produces one for this car. I did locate a used Kleeman pulley for what I think is a reasonable price of $210 shipped, but it has some chips/damage to the edges of the aluminum around the keyseat. I can post pictures later if any of you need a good look to offer me solid advice as to whether or not I should purchase it. From what I understand, pulleys don't really "wear out" and I'm guessing that any potential problems I might have would only occur during operation of the vehicle if the keyseat itself was damaged INSIDE the groove enough to cause there to be a loss of "lock" and allow a little wiggle on the crank shaft. From what I can tell in the pics I've seen, this shouldn't be an issue since the interior of the keyseat looks to be fully intact and the aluminum chipping is relegated to the outer edges around the seat, but can anyone here offer up a more informed opinion? 5) If there's a problem using the pulley as-is (or I simply don't like the "look" of the damage), the seller suggested I consider having a machine shop repair it with Alumiloy and/or cut a new keyseat on the other side of the pulley. A few years back (say '06/'07ish) Alumiloy was considered "expensive", but I'm guessing maybe it's cheaper and/or more commonly used now. As for its potential use on this pulley, does anyone here have any experience with using Alumiloy and whether or not it would be a good/cost efficient fix? Would cutting another keyseat on the other side of the crank shaft hole cause any issues? Given that this thing spins at a high speed...and it is called a harmonic BALANCER, after all, I'm kinda wondering if removing aluminum for another keyseat and/or adding alumiloy to fix the existing one could somehow throw off its function? If need be I want to factor in the labor costs of doing something like this vs. simply buying a new ASPracing pulley and returning my stock for the core-charge refund. 6) Can you guys recommend a belt for the pulley? A couple people on these forums mentioned specific brands (one was made by Goodyear I think). 7) Are there any other parts/mods needed (other than a belt) to get a pulley on the '02? I read in here that the earlier model SLKs need to move the MAF and require another part or two, but if I recall correctly the '02 Coupe doesn't need any other parts/mods. 8) I really like the exhaust tip on this car, but do want to replace the exhaust can itself with something a little better. Can anyone recommend one? The only direct fit brand I was able to find is Remus, which is ~$750. OUCH, that's a bit steep. I read in here that some people were able to get a Magnaflow 14815 ($199 on Amazon) under these coupes, so I suppose that's one option. But I'm not sure I want it on mine as I've heard Magnaflows can be a tad loud. I've heard that Borla makes a really nice, deep exhaust note (a lot less "ricer" than most options out there), but not sure if they have a universal that will fit under this coupe. I'm thinking I could cut off the stock cat/resonator/exhaust...then throw on a 2.5" stainless downpipe to an AR25 resonator and out the back to the Borla (or the Magnaflow if there isn't a Borla that will fit) with the stock tip and call it a day. Thoughts? 9) What are people's general opinions about replacing the headers? Noticeable power increase...or just a placebo? Too loud? Just right? Given that Supersprint doesn't make headers for this car anymore, I'm a little leery of trying to buy and fit on some 3rd party, el cheapo knock-offs from eBay. Anyone in here have any opinions and/or experience with these? I do know a good mechanic and an exhaust shop that does good work, so fitment issues shouldn't be too big of a problem as long as the headers are of decent quality material and the ports are generally in the right places. Still, unless there's an appreciable performance gain, sticking something on this car that isn't made for it and causes a lot more engine/cabin noise is a little "meh". 10) Anyone in here done a chip replacement or ECU re-flash before/after installing the pulley? I've read conflicting reports on this in here. Some people say the stock ECU adjusts/learns as you drive with the new pulley and maximizes the newly available horse power. Others have said you need an ECU reflash and/or upgrade chip to get the most out of it because the stock ECU doesn't handle the new pulley properly and/or "compensates." I found a location called OEtuning dot com that sells a drop-in chip replacement for $495 with a claimed 19HP increase, but naturally I'm a bit skeptical. 11) What are some of your favorite online places to find OEM and/or aftermarket performance/cosmetic mods? I've found a few locations, but don't want to miss anything good. Thanks for your time and patience reading through all my questions! It definitely makes the learning process a lot more fun when others share their experience. I'm looking forward to learning a great deal from all of you! Cheers!

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[MBfinatic]

Originally Posted by Mercendipity

So, while I'm at it, I hope you guys don't mind if I pepper you with a bunch of questions/observations to get things rollin:

1) This car doesn't have the Bose system, so I wasn't expecting much from the sound coming in, but dang....the stock speakers SUCK (then again, this isn't unique to this car, in my experience most stock speaks are terrible...I guess I just assumed this being a Benz it'd be a little better than the crap they put in ricers hehe).

So, first problem fixed: yesterday I ordered a set of Polk DB6501s for the front 6.5 slots. I'll most likely delete the rears. They suck even worse than the fronts. I prefer not having the weight in the car rather than letting them pollute my sound-stage. hehe I'm going to order a 5-channel Alpine amp this week (MRX-V60) and mount it under the passenger seat and eventually figure out a way to put a 8" sub in the right trunk fender-well facing inward/ported forward, or maybe just use a 8" sub in a box that I can take out when I need to use the trunk. I haven't decided 100% yet, but I don't think I'll bother replacing the rear 5.25s and will just run with the 6.5s up front and the sub.

The prior owner replaced the stock head unit with a mid-tier JVC (Phase Linear) that isn't anything special, but it already has an ipod hookup wired in and produces decent sound despite the incredibly bad speakers. So, to save money I'll wait a few months to replace the head unit until I find one with built-in NAV that I like. Most of the in-dash NAV units on the market right now are way over-priced and all seem to have major weaknesses. It was kinda surprising and disappointing to find out that Pioneers' and Kenwoods' best $1000+ NAV systems are only so-so. It appears the best bang for the buck is Sony's 660BT since it uses Tom Tom for NAV.

2) I've noticed a sharp "knocking" sound from the front left suspension when hitting pot-holes/rough pavement at odd angles. When I took the car in to have the oil changed, they also rotated the tires and said I have a "loose" ball joint on the front left wheel and gave me a loose figure of about ~$400 to fix both sides. From what I've read, this means I'll need to replace the upper control arm, which runs about ~$135 online. Can someone enlighten me further? I'd say the best thing to do would be to replace both the left and right upper control arms for ~$270 and have someone I know do the work for cheaper (or do the work myself). I'm wondering if its also advisable to replace the lower control arms and, while I'm at it, the rears? I'm fairly sure I can get the work done for less than I was quoted, but am curious what some of the car gods in here think.

3) The sun visor/sun-roof is non-functional. While the sun-visor is currently stuck open, thankfully the sun-ROOF is stuck CLOSED because it rains a LOT in Portland this time of year! I've read on this forum (and others) there are some home-brew remedies. Rumor is the stealership wants some ridiculous amount in excess of $2000 to work on what is essentially a 30 minute fix that can be done at home with a few cheap parts. If anyone has any other info to offer on this I'd much appreciate it!

4) I've researched some performance mods and I think I'm going to go with a pulley to start off with. I found ASPracing's offering and it's somewhat pricey (with the core charge) at $750, but appears its my only option since Kleeman no longer produces one for this car.

I did locate a used Kleeman pulley for what I think is a reasonable price of $210 shipped, but it has some chips/damage to the edges of the aluminum around the keyseat. I can post pictures later if any of you need a good look to offer me solid advice as to whether or not I should purchase it. From what I understand, pulleys don't really "wear out" and I'm guessing that any potential problems I might have would only occur during operation of the vehicle if the keyseat itself was damaged INSIDE the groove enough to cause there to be a loss of "lock" and allow a little wiggle on the crank shaft. From what I can tell in the pics I've seen, this shouldn't be an issue since the interior of the keyseat looks to be fully intact and the aluminum chipping is relegated to the outer edges around the seat, but can anyone here offer up a more informed opinion?

5) If there's a problem using the pulley as-is (or I simply don't like the "look" of the damage), the seller suggested I consider having a machine shop repair it with Alumiloy and/or cut a new keyseat on the other side of the pulley. A few years back (say '06/'07ish) Alumiloy was considered "expensive", but I'm guessing maybe it's cheaper and/or more commonly used now. As for its potential use on this pulley, does anyone here have any experience with using Alumiloy and whether or not it would be a good/cost efficient fix? Would cutting another keyseat on the other side of the crank shaft hole cause any issues? Given that this thing spins at a high speed...and it is called a harmonic BALANCER, after all, I'm kinda wondering if removing aluminum for another keyseat and/or adding alumiloy to fix the existing one could somehow throw off its function?

If need be I want to factor in the labor costs of doing something like this vs. simply buying a new ASPracing pulley and returning my stock for the core-charge refund.

6) Can you guys recommend a belt for the pulley? A couple people on these forums mentioned specific brands (one was made by Goodyear I think).

7) Are there any other parts/mods needed (other than a belt) to get a pulley on the '02? I read in here that the earlier model SLKs need to move the MAF and require another part or two, but if I recall correctly the '02 Coupe doesn't need any other parts/mods.

8) I really like the exhaust tip on this car, but do want to replace the exhaust can itself with something a little better. Can anyone recommend one? The only direct fit brand I was able to find is Remus, which is ~$750. OUCH, that's a bit steep. I read in here that some people were able to get a Magnaflow 14815 ($199 on Amazon) under these coupes, so I suppose that's one option. But I'm not sure I want it on mine as I've heard Magnaflows can be a tad loud. I've heard that Borla makes a really nice, deep exhaust note (a lot less "ricer" than most options out there), but not sure if they have a universal that will fit under this coupe.

I'm thinking I could cut off the stock cat/resonator/exhaust...then throw on a 2.5" stainless downpipe to an AR25 resonator and out the back to the Borla (or the Magnaflow if there isn't a Borla that will fit) with the stock tip and call it a day. Thoughts?

9) What are people's general opinions about replacing the headers? Noticeable power increase...or just a placebo? Too loud? Just right?

Given that Supersprint doesn't make headers for this car anymore, I'm a little leery of trying to buy and fit on some 3rd party, el cheapo knock-offs from eBay. Anyone in here have any opinions and/or experience with these?

I do know a good mechanic and an exhaust shop that does good work, so fitment issues shouldn't be too big of a problem as long as the headers are of decent quality material and the ports are generally in the right places.

Still, unless there's an appreciable performance gain, sticking something on this car that isn't made for it and causes a lot more engine/cabin noise is a little "meh".

10) Anyone in here done a chip replacement or ECU re-flash before/after installing the pulley? I've read conflicting reports on this in here. Some people say the stock ECU adjusts/learns as you drive with the new pulley and maximizes the newly available horse power. Others have said you need an ECU reflash and/or upgrade chip to get the most out of it because the stock ECU doesn't handle the new pulley properly and/or "compensates."

I found a location called OEtuning dot com that sells a drop-in chip replacement for $495 with a claimed 19HP increase, but naturally I'm a bit skeptical.

11) What are some of your favorite online places to find OEM and/or aftermarket performance/cosmetic mods? I've found a few locations, but don't want to miss anything good.

Thanks for your time and patience reading through all my questions! It definitely makes the learning process a lot more fun when others share their experience. I'm looking forward to learning a great deal from all of you!

Cheers!

Post some pictures of your car!

1. You could change the speakers out if you are not satisfied.

2. You should be able to find a cheaper quote to fix that.

3. I would find the parts you need and than go to the w203 sponsor (Mymercedesparts.com) they have a great selection and offer great prices.

4. I would look around more that is somewhat a high price. Did they say what the gains would be? What size pulley?

5. I dont have experience with that so I dont have an opinion..

6. I would ask someone else on that one.

7. I dont think you need to move anything but I may be wrong. Someone that has done it will mos likely chime in.

8. For the price you really cant beat a flowmaster delta 50 series. It made a huge difference on my car.

9. The headers produce gains but they are not huge gains naturally. It will depend if you want to spend the money for the power.

10. I would believe what OE tuning said. They do great work. You may want to dyno it to get a base run and than have the file uploaded and see what happens.

11. Pretty much the forum sponsors and ebay.

I hope this helps!

[tommy]

Originally Posted by Mercendipity

5) I'm kinda wondering if removing aluminum for another keyseat and/or adding alumiloy to fix the existing one could somehow throw off its function?

6) Can you guys recommend a belt for the pulley? A couple people on these forums mentioned specific brands (one was made by Goodyear I think).

7) Are there any other parts/mods needed (other than a belt) to get a pulley on the '02? I read in here that the earlier model SLKs need to move the MAF and require another part or two, but if I recall correctly the '02 Coupe doesn't need any other parts/mods.

8) I really like the exhaust tip on this car, but do want to replace the exhaust can itself with something a little better. Can anyone recommend one?

I'm thinking I could cut off the stock cat/resonator/exhaust...then throw on a 2.5" stainless downpipe to an AR25 resonator and out the back to the Borla (or the Magnaflow if there isn't a Borla that will fit) with the stock tip and call it a day. Thoughts?

9) What are people's general opinions about replacing the headers?

10) Anyone in here done a chip replacement or ECU re-flash before/after installing the pulley? I've read conflicting reports on this in here. Some people say the stock ECU adjusts/learns as you drive with the new pulley and maximizes the newly available horse power. Others have said you need an ECU reflash and/or upgrade chip to get the most out of it because the stock ECU doesn't handle the new pulley properly and/or "compensates."

I found a location called OEtuning dot com that sells a drop-in chip replacement for $495 with a claimed 19HP increase, but naturally I'm a bit skeptical.

11) What are some of your favorite online places to find OEM and/or aftermarket performance/cosmetic mods? I've found a few locations, but don't want to miss anything good.

5) IMHO, I'd spend the add'l $500 and get an ASP; it's not worth it to install or "fix" a pulley that isn't in good shape.

6) Both times I've had mine replaced, they've used Goodyear Gatorbacks, and it hasn't fallen apart yet.

7) No other parts needed

8) Exhausts only will give you loudness and cosmetic gains, so that's subject to your taste.

9) I've got the Supersprint headers, and not much noticeable gains. I don't think that universal headers are a good option, either.

10) I had Upsolute chip my ecu both before and after my pulley install (I have a Renntech). Not great gains. However, had OE do a chip in December, and very happy with the results.

11) Not many places are out there. So basically, you find what you want to do, then search around to find the needle in the haystack who sells that part. Things are expensive and difficult to find; it's a serious PITA.

[Mercendipity]

Thanks for the quick input guys!

@ MBfinatic...re: pix... The weather is beautiful this week, so I'll get it done in the next few days!

4) Claimed gains with the pulley are 25-35HP at the rear wheels, which has been dyno verified by more than one person on these forums I think. Soooo...nutshell: it's a kick *** and relatively easy/inexpensive way to gain some serious horsepower.

From what I understand, looking around isn't really an option since ASPracing makes the only pulley for the '02 C230K Coupe. Kleeman used to make one, but stopped production. So, the only option is to pick up a used Kleeman if you can find one...or shell out the dough for the ASP. After you get back the $300 core charge though, the $450 cost for ~30HP seems like a pretty darn good deal.

8) Flowmaster Delta 50 - model number? Exhaust note? Loud/quiet? Stainless? The Flowmasters I've looked at in the past aren't stainless. Not sure of what your opinion is on that.... I'm willing to be convinced!

@ tommy...

5) That's my general feeling too.... Looking at the aluminum chipping around the keyseat doesn't seem like it'd effect the operation of the pulley at all since it's really shallow, almost cosmetic damage...so it'd still sit nice and snug on the crank shaft from what I can see. But, it still gives me a bit of an uneasy feeling. I'm hoping someone with a strong mechanic background might chime in on this, but my gut is telling me "no, just buy the new one". After the core charge refund it ends up being basically twice as expensive ($450 vs $210), but I think for peace of mind it might be worth it not to try to save a buck on this particular part....

10) Good to know OEtuning is legit! It seems like there are a lot of phony fly-by-night chip/ECU businesses out there, so it's tough to know who is on the up n up. I'll have to give them a call and talk to someone. Do you know the name of any of their techs/mechanics so I can ask for someone specifically?

I'm sure I'll come up with some other questions in the next few days, but thanks for being so cool and informative with answering all this stuff guys!



Anyone else care to chime in? All opinions are needed to get my Benz noob butt up to speed! Cheers!

[tommy]

Josh or Jeremy at OE; they're both easy to talk to and know their sh*t. Jeremy's an Aussie in exile like me, so I prefer him. But either would be fine.

You'll have to send them your ecu, but it's a two-day affair if you use overnight. If you're definitely going to do a pulley, no reason to get chipped before the pulley's in place.