Soon after changing ATF as in my last post shifting irregularities returned. Sucked a quart of ATF out of the filler tube and replaced with Lucas ATF additive. Problem solved. Up and down shifting very smooth and regular. Hey it works. There's no downside so try it.
To remove this ad, register today or login if you already are registered!
Drives: late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Don't put crap like that anywhere near your Benz transmission. The Benz transmission has many requirements as mandated by MB for the long life & proper performance of the unit. The oil industry & the additive companies spend millions developing & testing the correct fluid to meet all requirements. Benz tests & approves the fluid.
Then somebody pours a can of mouse milk into the mix & screws up the entire formulation. The long term downside could be considerable & change seal swell chracteristic & frictional properties leading to clutch pack failure. Many other influences are also possible.
Don't do it. If a vehicle was under warranty it would invalidate it.
Use only Benz approved fluids meeting 236.14 or if you have a new 722.9 Plus transmission that does not apply to W203 vehicles then use the new blue 236.15 fluid.
[QUOTE=Glyn M Ruck;5522133]+1^ on level. An ECU reset does not reset the TCU.
Transmission adaptions can only be reset with Star (I'm not talking about learning)
The fact that it does it in both C & S makes it unlikely that a clutch pack is slipping. More likely a slight valve leak in the valve body. Did you break open your old transmission filter & look for wear material?
What happens when you select Drive from Park or Neutral? There is some delay on these cars but then it should lock up
Hello my car have a problem like this. Delayed engagement when it came from neutral, park and reverse.
Okay, battery replaced several weeks ago ... had a dead cell in it, low voltage. The electrical system feels a bit better, I can start the car with the radio remaining running now -- but doesn't affect the TC lockup/release issue.
Next steps: (1) check out the alternator to make sure it isn't dragging the engine down (although it wouldn't be applicable to the lockup delay), and (2) STAR diagnosis.
I just priced out the diagnosis from a very competent sounding indy at one hour labor ($110), and they feel they can very definitely determine if the problem is in the solenoid, valve or conductor plate.
However this is one of those toys that I think would be fun to try on my own. There are plenty of Star C3/C4/C5 units for sale out there ... I've seen the C5 listed for close to $400. If anyone out there has a unit that they wouldn't mind loaning or renting to me, please let me know.
jkowtko, its most likely your conductor plate, the best way to check it to look in the passenger side foot rest, pull back the carpet and you will see trans fluid, which is leaking from the connectore, its about 150 to buy and you can do it your self if you are inclined to do so and also take out the tcu and see if fliud got in it and spray with maf cleaner and put back in.
jkowtko, its most likely your conductor plate, the best way to check it to look in the passenger side foot rest, pull back the carpet and you will see trans fluid, which is leaking from the connector, its about 150 to buy and you can do it your self if you are inclined to do so and also take out the tcu and see if fliud got in it and spray with maf cleaner and put back in.
My connector has been replaced twice -- once early on when it started to leak prematurely, and again last year when I did my fluid/filter service. The transmission housing and electrical cord are completely dry -- there is no fluid anywhere near the passenger compartment.
If it were fluid leakage into the conductor plate, is that generally due to a leak in the connector?
In any case I am starting my quest to purchase a STAR system so I can do a full diagnostic on the transmission myself.
Very surprisingly, after replacing the front motor mounts it seems like most if not all of my transmission woes have disappeared!
* TCC late release when coming to a stop and dragging down the rpms (engine warm)
* TCC slip from stop sign after coming to a stop from 3rd/4th gear (engine dead cold)
* erratic 1-2-3 shifting when dead cold and light on the throttle (leaving the house slowly down neighborhood streets)
It is very surprising to me that the two would be related. The ECM must be very sensitive to excessive engine movement and/or vibration. But I am very happy if this is the problem vs a transmission valve body issue.
There were additional issues such as a downshift "clunk" as if something in the drivetrain were a bit loose, and a momentary lapse when I stepped on the gas after decelerating. Those seem to be gone as well. And downshifts are hardly noticable now.
And, not related to transmission, but the momentary "rumble" when I start or stop the engine, also gone. And the engine sounds much quieter from inside the car.
What you are describing very accurately matches some of the things I'm experiencing with the transmission in my '06 c280. When I purchased it I was having hard shifts, notice the clunky when not coming to a complete stop for a few seconds in 1st, etc.
I did the transmission service which fixed the overall rough shifting, but it is still grabby/clunky when almost coming to a complete stop and lightly touching the accelerator. I also experience the thuds when braking from the downshifting... I actually explained to my dealer that I thought it could be loose motor mounts or at least the problem when rolling through a stop felt like that. They thought I was crazy and proceeded with the transmission service.
Now that you've described all these issues disappearing after replacing the motor mounts I'm inclined to have them check into that again.
Do you mind disclosing roughly how much it cost you to replace the motor mounts? Are all the symptoms still gone?
I did the work myself, so the cost of Corteco mounts ($90 + 90 + 40) was all that I paid.
Of course I also have a pair of ramps ($50) and a floor jack ($80) and a few hundred dollars in Craftsman tools. And I bought the $15 offset wrench needed to get to the top bolt on the drivers side mount.
After a week or so, the symptoms are all either mostly or completely gone. I still notice a bit of erratic shifting when the car is stone cold in the morning, but it's not as bad as it was before. The TCC lockup/release issue at the first two stops when cold, I haven't really noticed that anymore. The car is very quiet on the freeway, and I usually cannot hear or feel the engine when stopped at a red light (still in gear).
So I won't guarantee that it will remove ALL of your symptoms, but it made a huge difference for me.
When I replaced my engine mounts I noticed similar behavior. My car was not experiencing any of these issues other than slight vibration when completely stopped. Apart from not feeling the engine vibrations anymore, the other subtle difference was how the car shifts gears now. It changed the behavior of how it downshifts. It's subtle but I could see the difference. The tolerances on these cars are very precise, when something wears it shows up in manners not showed in other cars. It's the sum of the whole package. Check motor mounts if you get clunk noises when the car downshifts.
I think I may have to check my mounts as well. I have an appointment tomorrow at my local MB dealer to check the transmission. During fluid change, there was no metal in the pan. When I took apart the drivers side footwell, I noticed the TCU had some fluid on the wires. I cleaned it up, did the adaptive reset on the car and went to bed. I woke up, and she shifted like never before. I swore I was driving a new car that morning, but as the day progressed and into the week, it went back to the same. I cleaned it up again, this time with electrical cleaner, but it seemed to have been a one time trick.
I'm thinking either mounts or the bushing. Checked it during the fluid change, seemed OK. Who knows....
Fluid - You should clearly be able to tell if the electrical bushing is leaking fluid. You'll have to get under the car and remove that little aluminum shield though (one screw I think).
Shifting - the word from other threads on this forum is that the first 40 starts from a standstill after a reset determine the program for the transmission and throttle body. So if you want the car to shift sportier, drive more sportily for the first few days after the reset.
Replacing motor mounts should give you a consistent improvement.
Not that this has anything to do with the problem, but I was always told to warm up my car before driving. Especially on cold mornings. I usually wait for a few minutes until it gets to temp.
Does it make that much difference?
I'm sure that would make a difference on a lot of these cold temp issues. I wait a few seconds for the oil start circulating -- you can hear that pretty clearly -- and then It will take me a few more seconds to get ready to back out of the driveway, but I usually don't wait for anything to warm up. On the rare occurence when I do let the engine idle for a while (i.e. have to run back into the house to grab something I forgot), I think it is better.
I am in the SF Bay Area, doesn't get much below 50 here, so I'm not in the habit of letting the car warm up.
Changing out the motor mounts seemed to help this situation a lot ... I don't really notice it anymore.