C240 W203 accelerator pedal idle position reset?
07-18-2014, 02:19 PM
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'01 C240 POS, BMW 740il (e38) '98 ..KAR (Kick Ass Ride)
C240 W203 accelerator pedal idle position reset?
Hi all!
My '01 c240 had the dying / surging problem at stop lights. Solved it by cleaning TPS, TB, connectors, MAF, and replacing the MAF / TB seals. But the biggest fix was replacing the transmission pan gasket, o-ring, filter, and fluid. [rant]$50 for a dipstick? Really?[/rant]
Now it runs great, but idles a little fast (1k rpm) unless I put my foot under the gas pedal (which is nothing but a couple hall effect sensors, a magnet and a stomp switch, AFAIK), pull up, and the idle speed goes down where it I think it should be (~650?).
I've pulled it out, cleaned the connectors, spring tension seems good and returns it to the full up position without fail.
I've seen, and performed (maybe I'm not doing it right) reset procedure for the pedal, but I'm wondering if there is a reset for the idle or full up position as well.
Also, it seems there is two versions of the procedure: C-320CAV writes:
Others say to turn the key on then press the pedal.
My question ('bout time I get to that eh?) is which procedure is correct, and does anyone know if this calibrates the full up (idle) position as well, or is there another reset for that?
Oh, and just FYI, I'm an electronic tech, so I'll probably be either replacing the magnet, the sensors or filing down the plastic that the pedal rests on before I spend a dime on a new plastic piece of crap pedal assembly. Has anyone done any of this stuff, or has a similar problem? Thanks!
My '01 c240 had the dying / surging problem at stop lights. Solved it by cleaning TPS, TB, connectors, MAF, and replacing the MAF / TB seals. But the biggest fix was replacing the transmission pan gasket, o-ring, filter, and fluid. [rant]$50 for a dipstick? Really?[/rant]
Now it runs great, but idles a little fast (1k rpm) unless I put my foot under the gas pedal (which is nothing but a couple hall effect sensors, a magnet and a stomp switch, AFAIK), pull up, and the idle speed goes down where it I think it should be (~650?).
I've pulled it out, cleaned the connectors, spring tension seems good and returns it to the full up position without fail.
I've seen, and performed (maybe I'm not doing it right) reset procedure for the pedal, but I'm wondering if there is a reset for the idle or full up position as well.
Also, it seems there is two versions of the procedure: C-320CAV writes:
Throttle Reset: First step on the gas pedal fully down to where you feel a bump. Then turn your key all the way without it starting the car on. Make sure your foot is still on the pedal. Now you wait for about 60 secs or so. After that, turn the key to the off position and take key out. Now you can release the gas pedal. Your car will now be more responsive to the throttle!
My question ('bout time I get to that eh?) is which procedure is correct, and does anyone know if this calibrates the full up (idle) position as well, or is there another reset for that?
Oh, and just FYI, I'm an electronic tech, so I'll probably be either replacing the magnet, the sensors or filing down the plastic that the pedal rests on before I spend a dime on a new plastic piece of crap pedal assembly. Has anyone done any of this stuff, or has a similar problem? Thanks!
Last edited by Benzlemon; 07-18-2014 at 04:18 PM.
07-19-2014, 04:10 AM
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All the throttle reset does is to align the throttle plate with the pedal & assure WOT.
Procedure. Drivers door closed:
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (NOT start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and HOLD for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes - don't do anything.
That should reset the throttle.
THE ECU controls idle speed as long as their is no input from the TPS. Make absolutely sure that the throttle pedal is mechanically returning all the way.
Good luck!
Procedure. Drivers door closed:
1. Turn the ignition key to the on (NOT start) position.
2. Press the gas pedal to the floor and HOLD for five seconds.
3. Turn the key to the "off" position (don't remove the key), then release the gas pedal.
4. Wait at least two minutes - don't do anything.
That should reset the throttle.
THE ECU controls idle speed as long as their is no input from the TPS. Make absolutely sure that the throttle pedal is mechanically returning all the way.
Good luck!
10-26-2014, 03:17 PM
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'01 C240 POS, BMW 740il (e38) '98 ..KAR (Kick Ass Ride)
Thank you Mr. Ruck!
Update: Turns out there's no zero point calibration, and I had a defective hall effect sensor in my gas pedal assembly that has been driving me crazy for years. It was probably intermittent before it failed completely. No CEL, just some code about it using the secondary element or some such.
I could not pass smog, due to "not ready" or "inc" (code reader) conditions for secondary air and evap systems, even after driving for months and hundreds of miles post reset. I did the gasket replacement on the fuel pump (it leaked when tank was full), bit the bullet, and dropped in an ebay used gas pedal assy. ($120US) and re-did the procedure:
1. 60mph constant 10 min
2. 2 min idle in D
3. 65mph constant in 5 min
And bamm!! all systems go, and now my car drives better than it ever has. It would always do the annoying die / surge at stop thing and never actually decelerated with foot off gas, but now it does, and the idle is down where it should be!!
Lesson: If you get a "TPS or pedal" code, it just might be the pedal.
My theory is that the systems couldn't pass it's own drive cycle checks because the car never thought it was idling. Probably because it really wasn't.
Things I did chasing down this problem (usually improved performance):
New plugs
New air filters
New intake seals / clean MAF, clean TB and check / clean TPS
Replaced Tranny fluid, filter, connector o-ring, and leaky pan gasket.
New fuel pump gasket
New (to me) Gas pedal assy.
Update: Turns out there's no zero point calibration, and I had a defective hall effect sensor in my gas pedal assembly that has been driving me crazy for years. It was probably intermittent before it failed completely. No CEL, just some code about it using the secondary element or some such.
I could not pass smog, due to "not ready" or "inc" (code reader) conditions for secondary air and evap systems, even after driving for months and hundreds of miles post reset. I did the gasket replacement on the fuel pump (it leaked when tank was full), bit the bullet, and dropped in an ebay used gas pedal assy. ($120US) and re-did the procedure:
1. 60mph constant 10 min
2. 2 min idle in D
3. 65mph constant in 5 min
And bamm!! all systems go, and now my car drives better than it ever has. It would always do the annoying die / surge at stop thing and never actually decelerated with foot off gas, but now it does, and the idle is down where it should be!!
Lesson: If you get a "TPS or pedal" code, it just might be the pedal.
My theory is that the systems couldn't pass it's own drive cycle checks because the car never thought it was idling. Probably because it really wasn't.
Things I did chasing down this problem (usually improved performance):
New plugs
New air filters
New intake seals / clean MAF, clean TB and check / clean TPS
Replaced Tranny fluid, filter, connector o-ring, and leaky pan gasket.
New fuel pump gasket
New (to me) Gas pedal assy.
Last edited by Benzlemon; 10-30-2014 at 04:02 PM.
10-29-2014, 10:21 PM
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Mercedes c240 2002
I have the same problem with my car it dies when i get to a stop light nd i hate it nd im fixing to do tht mephod, i took it to get it ''fix'' but they just took $800 out of my pocket
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10-30-2014, 03:57 PM
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'01 C240 POS, BMW 740il (e38) '98 ..KAR (Kick Ass Ride)
If not, replace your intake / throttle body seals, and check your transmission for leaks and fluid levels (must buy a dipstick... ouch!). Look for videos on the "sealed for life" (yeah right) transmission overhaul.
Good luck!!
