C230 Coupe goes into limp mode and can't put it in revers or park
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
C230 Coupe goes into limp mode and can't put it in revers or park
Hi,
I've read a number of posts on here with people having similar problems but still don't know what to do. I love the car and would like to keep it but can't spend a fortune on it either.
Early this week, after accelerating at a stoplight, the RPM's just kept going up and up with no power. It wouldn't switch gears. I pulled over and couldn't get it past Neutral - It will only stay in Drive or Neutral and I can't push it into Reverse or Park. I have to turn the key to off and then it will go into Park and then start the car up again, at which point it drives just fine. Until a mile or so later and it all repeats. I had to do it four times on the way home and then twice on the way to the mechanic the next day.
Mechanic seemed perplexed. He reset the "computer memory" and sent me off. The car drove home just fine and then to and from work the following day as well. Then, the next morning, it did it twice so I took it back.
Mechanic says I have to replace the transmission and recommends selling, so I decided to take it to the dealer to get a second opinion.
Upon arrival, the advisor tells me there is a camshaft sensor recall, which I later found out could be causing my issue, including having to get the O2 sensors replaced last month due to multiple CEL errors.
He calls me today and says it's the Shift lever. I press and ask whether he means the lever, which is mechanical or the Module, which I think it electric and he then says it's the latter and quotes $1,300. A bit steep for my blood.
He doesn't seem to really know what he's talking about (can't I just speak to the actual mechanic?) and says that due to the recall they replaced "some wires." I press and say they should have replaced the cam shaft sensors and the wiring harness, I think, and he says, "They just took care of the recall and replaced the wires." He also says my transmission is just fine.
Is there anything I am missing here? Should I have my mechanic try to replace the shift module for cheaper? Will this even fix the issue, or is it really the camshaft recall issue that hasn't been fully explored by anyone? I don't really feel like I can trust my mechanic or the dealership at this point.
Thanks!
I've read a number of posts on here with people having similar problems but still don't know what to do. I love the car and would like to keep it but can't spend a fortune on it either.
Early this week, after accelerating at a stoplight, the RPM's just kept going up and up with no power. It wouldn't switch gears. I pulled over and couldn't get it past Neutral - It will only stay in Drive or Neutral and I can't push it into Reverse or Park. I have to turn the key to off and then it will go into Park and then start the car up again, at which point it drives just fine. Until a mile or so later and it all repeats. I had to do it four times on the way home and then twice on the way to the mechanic the next day.
Mechanic seemed perplexed. He reset the "computer memory" and sent me off. The car drove home just fine and then to and from work the following day as well. Then, the next morning, it did it twice so I took it back.
Mechanic says I have to replace the transmission and recommends selling, so I decided to take it to the dealer to get a second opinion.
Upon arrival, the advisor tells me there is a camshaft sensor recall, which I later found out could be causing my issue, including having to get the O2 sensors replaced last month due to multiple CEL errors.
He calls me today and says it's the Shift lever. I press and ask whether he means the lever, which is mechanical or the Module, which I think it electric and he then says it's the latter and quotes $1,300. A bit steep for my blood.
He doesn't seem to really know what he's talking about (can't I just speak to the actual mechanic?) and says that due to the recall they replaced "some wires." I press and say they should have replaced the cam shaft sensors and the wiring harness, I think, and he says, "They just took care of the recall and replaced the wires." He also says my transmission is just fine.
Is there anything I am missing here? Should I have my mechanic try to replace the shift module for cheaper? Will this even fix the issue, or is it really the camshaft recall issue that hasn't been fully explored by anyone? I don't really feel like I can trust my mechanic or the dealership at this point.
Thanks!
#2
MBWorld Fanatic!
I think others have had issues like this.
Ping Seacoupe he might have some insight.
He had a thread where he repaired his shift lever unit some years back,
search for it.
As far as parts costs, check ebay and junkyards before shelling out
big bucks. http://www.car-part.com/
I recently bought an $800 brake booster for $50 (and it works fine)
as well as an ESP Yaw sensor that was causing a constant ESP error for like the last
5 years that goes for $800 as well, for $30.
Got a door stop ($60-80 or so) for $15.
Speaker, $15, vs. like 100.
Also it doesn't seem any of the people you are talking to know squat.
The issue with the engine wiring harness is that it wicks oil into the harness, fries the 02 sensors, and can also work it's way to the ECU.
Actually repairing it once the oil gets in the harness entails removing the entire harness, and either replacing it with a new one, or cleaning the old one, soak it in some solvent, or other people have used electical contact cleaner etc. Several threads on that.
And then replacing parts like the 02 sensors that are soaked with oil.
The "recall" actually a service bulletin entails replacing the sensor (will shows as "Magnet" on your invoice) and putting a wire pigtail in that prevents the oil from getting past the pigtail.
Also electrical tranmission connector on the tranny can wick oil into the TCU (transmission control Unit) which is under the passenger's feet, pull back the carpet if it comes to that, and there's a false floor where you'll find this.
And lastly did they even check the fluid level?
Have you ever had the fluid replaced?
How man miles on your coupe?
Everything you want to know is here if you search for it.
If you don't mind trying to do a few things yourself, and do the research you
will quickly know more than most of the mechanics, and then can tell them what they need to do , exactly, or DIY.
Ping Seacoupe he might have some insight.
He had a thread where he repaired his shift lever unit some years back,
search for it.
As far as parts costs, check ebay and junkyards before shelling out
big bucks. http://www.car-part.com/
I recently bought an $800 brake booster for $50 (and it works fine)
as well as an ESP Yaw sensor that was causing a constant ESP error for like the last
5 years that goes for $800 as well, for $30.
Got a door stop ($60-80 or so) for $15.
Speaker, $15, vs. like 100.
Also it doesn't seem any of the people you are talking to know squat.
The issue with the engine wiring harness is that it wicks oil into the harness, fries the 02 sensors, and can also work it's way to the ECU.
Actually repairing it once the oil gets in the harness entails removing the entire harness, and either replacing it with a new one, or cleaning the old one, soak it in some solvent, or other people have used electical contact cleaner etc. Several threads on that.
And then replacing parts like the 02 sensors that are soaked with oil.
The "recall" actually a service bulletin entails replacing the sensor (will shows as "Magnet" on your invoice) and putting a wire pigtail in that prevents the oil from getting past the pigtail.
Also electrical tranmission connector on the tranny can wick oil into the TCU (transmission control Unit) which is under the passenger's feet, pull back the carpet if it comes to that, and there's a false floor where you'll find this.
And lastly did they even check the fluid level?
Have you ever had the fluid replaced?
How man miles on your coupe?
Everything you want to know is here if you search for it.
If you don't mind trying to do a few things yourself, and do the research you
will quickly know more than most of the mechanics, and then can tell them what they need to do , exactly, or DIY.
The following users liked this post:
wes27hoya (12-01-2017)
#3
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks for that info.
I got stranded on a mountain but close to a mechanic on Tuesday. At the top of the hill, the gas pedal stopped increasing car's speed. Flooring it got me to 72 mph only, so I pulled over and turned the car off, put it in park etc. but this time it wouldn't fix itself upon restarting. Just stayed in limp mode again and again and so I limped it into the shop. They were convinced it was the "transmission range selector/sensor circuit" because of code P0705 so now I've gotten three totally different diagnosis of the issue from three mechanics. Great.
I had them reset the computer and voila, car starts running fine. I managed to make it back to LA like this and took it to another mechanic in Glendale I'd found on Yelp. He couldn't diagnose without check engine being on so I drove it around town for an hour or so until it crapped out again and I limped it into his shop.
He got the shifter unit code and used to work for MBZ and is certified so he's convinced it's that unit and is replacing it. Unfortunately, he'd only do a new part from the dealer but it's costing me $960 all up ($695 for the part and remainder, labor) instead of the $1,300 quoted from the dealer. At this point, I just want it to work and will happily part with the cash if it actually fixes it.
Mechanic says it looks clean from above - no signs I spilled coffee or liquids onto it.
He also showed me what they did with the recall and yes, it appears to be the "pigtail" solution you mentioned. He said if the oil had gotten deep and they had to replace the whole wire, it would be like 12 hours of labor so this is why they do this instead. They did NOT replace the sensor (magnet). Should they have done this as well?
What bothers me is that I had to replace the O2 sensors and from what you are saying, the recall issue could also have caused the shifter unit to malfunction. Can I get Mercedes to cover these or prove it was the recall issue that did it to them somehow?
Mine has 114,500 miles on it.
Thanks!
I got stranded on a mountain but close to a mechanic on Tuesday. At the top of the hill, the gas pedal stopped increasing car's speed. Flooring it got me to 72 mph only, so I pulled over and turned the car off, put it in park etc. but this time it wouldn't fix itself upon restarting. Just stayed in limp mode again and again and so I limped it into the shop. They were convinced it was the "transmission range selector/sensor circuit" because of code P0705 so now I've gotten three totally different diagnosis of the issue from three mechanics. Great.
I had them reset the computer and voila, car starts running fine. I managed to make it back to LA like this and took it to another mechanic in Glendale I'd found on Yelp. He couldn't diagnose without check engine being on so I drove it around town for an hour or so until it crapped out again and I limped it into his shop.
He got the shifter unit code and used to work for MBZ and is certified so he's convinced it's that unit and is replacing it. Unfortunately, he'd only do a new part from the dealer but it's costing me $960 all up ($695 for the part and remainder, labor) instead of the $1,300 quoted from the dealer. At this point, I just want it to work and will happily part with the cash if it actually fixes it.
Mechanic says it looks clean from above - no signs I spilled coffee or liquids onto it.
He also showed me what they did with the recall and yes, it appears to be the "pigtail" solution you mentioned. He said if the oil had gotten deep and they had to replace the whole wire, it would be like 12 hours of labor so this is why they do this instead. They did NOT replace the sensor (magnet). Should they have done this as well?
What bothers me is that I had to replace the O2 sensors and from what you are saying, the recall issue could also have caused the shifter unit to malfunction. Can I get Mercedes to cover these or prove it was the recall issue that did it to them somehow?
Mine has 114,500 miles on it.
Thanks!
#4
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Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: Finland, Europe
Posts: 139
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W203 C200CDI
If you need to replace the shifter module, then its just $100 job if you want to buy used part.
See my diy thread with same problems than you (though i have different Star code)
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ode-p1856.html
----
Edit nevermind glad you got it working anyway
See my diy thread with same problems than you (though i have different Star code)
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...ode-p1856.html
----
Edit nevermind glad you got it working anyway
#5
MBWorld Fanatic!
Gawd, did you already spend a grand?
Saw a shifter on ebay the other day and thought of you....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-CLK320-350-500-W209-w203-C230-C320-SHIFT-GEAR-SHIFTER-2032675424-OEM-/291272887654?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43d1378d66&vxp=mtr
Saw a shifter on ebay the other day and thought of you....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-CLK320-350-500-W209-w203-C230-C320-SHIFT-GEAR-SHIFTER-2032675424-OEM-/291272887654?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43d1378d66&vxp=mtr
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 11-10-2014 at 06:16 PM.
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Man, just reading through this thread again. I hadn't seen your reply back in the day. I forgot all about the recall pigtail solution. It appears it didn't work in the long run. Thanks a lot, MBZ. New problems on this thread, where I mention the engine harness needing replaced entirely.
Replacing the shifter unit indeed fixed this problem and it remains fixed until now so I had put all of it behind me in my mind. Thanks for the tips. Wish I'd remembered the recall repair and just took it back to MBZ to complain in the first place. I'd probably have more money in my pocket today.
New issues:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...pass-smog.html
Replacing the shifter unit indeed fixed this problem and it remains fixed until now so I had put all of it behind me in my mind. Thanks for the tips. Wish I'd remembered the recall repair and just took it back to MBZ to complain in the first place. I'd probably have more money in my pocket today.
New issues:
https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...pass-smog.html
#7
MBWorld Fanatic!
Yup my shifter went too last year, got one at Pick n pull for $35 after watching and waiting for like 2 months to get the right
one.
Replied to your new thread. MAF dude!
Just had this last year...or actually 2 years ago...smog due again...already.
1st it was too lean, then it was too rich! Pulled me hair out...did find some bad hoses and sheet, but
in the end, it was the MAF.
You gotta get the Mercedes codes read, not the OBD crap.
Thats how I knew, paid a guy $40 to read my codes, and there it was SHORTED MAF.
Oh wait actually diag'd the MAF wth Carsoft.
SHORTED BEEOTCH!
Changed it and all is good, though I need a new recirc air flap
flakes out intermittently.
one.
Replied to your new thread. MAF dude!
Just had this last year...or actually 2 years ago...smog due again...already.
1st it was too lean, then it was too rich! Pulled me hair out...did find some bad hoses and sheet, but
in the end, it was the MAF.
You gotta get the Mercedes codes read, not the OBD crap.
Thats how I knew, paid a guy $40 to read my codes, and there it was SHORTED MAF.
Oh wait actually diag'd the MAF wth Carsoft.
SHORTED BEEOTCH!
Changed it and all is good, though I need a new recirc air flap
flakes out intermittently.
Last edited by C230 Sport Coup; 12-01-2017 at 09:43 PM.