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Ok, so should I/We change the paper filters out twice in between oil change then, since they don't last as long as Fleece? I am currently using WIX "high flow" brand.
I'd advise using OEM/OES filters, they are pretty good.
From what I gather, when the filter is new, it needs some time to reach optimum filtration (i.e. it does not filter anything for some time). Which kind of makes it a bad idea to change the filter mid-way.
I just change my oil every 6-7k miles. Figure $25-30 for 6qt Mobil1 0w40 from Walmart, $10-15 for a filter, quite inexpensive to me.
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
VVF ~ You are correct. On Matt's car we did oil analysis & the new Hengst OE paper filter worked well.
Filters in general filter better once some of the holes in the media become blocked. So they get better & better until they go into bypass due to excessive pressure differential across the media. Only change filter once at the recommended service interval.
I have referred the OP here to the best guy I know. He runs a tiny shop in a tiny little town in GA, but he's the only tech in GA qualified to replace a clutch in a Porsche Carrera GT. He's from Europe and trained there, brilliant man. Labor rates of $65/hr - about half of what a dealer will charge.
Indeed, my 05 C230K ran paper filters on 13000 mile oil changes without issue as proven by more than one analysis. I made sure to use the 229.5 approved oil, always Mobil1 0W-40 Euro car formula.
LILBENZ - Could you PM your mechanic contact info for me please? I'd love to locate him and use his services. Thanks!
PS - Another Indy I know recommended that at my next oil change interval, I switch to MOTUL 5w40 8100 (229.5) Oil. He's swears by this stuff and even states that it's much better that Mobil 1. Are these statements accurate?
Thanks again fellas!
Last edited by Norsk_Johnson; 04-22-2015 at 11:50 AM.
You want to use matt's guy I hope you realize the cost of asking him for help!!!!!!
I will never be the same but that might have been the drugging me in Vegas a few years back that did that.... But at least I remember seeing Celine Dion's show ever night
Sadly Matt now drives a corolla after an unfortunate fire but I will awaken him and find out where he took his car for you.
As for the oil unless your indy is some chemist his evidence is probably very subjective that said I personally use anything that is approved by MB and is the correct weight for my area. But due to Mobil 1 being so easy to find that is usually what I go with.
Last edited by samaritrey; 04-24-2015 at 02:04 AM.
I appreciate all the comments. At your mileage the timing chain must be replaced anyway. Listening to the clip over fairly decent Sony powered speakers hooked to my computer it sounds like chain to me. Cam adjusters & chain make a very similar noise. Without being there with an auto stethoscope it's the best diagnosis I can do.
There is a de-burring procedure for the cam adjusters. It never works. The not so subtle difference is that if the chain jumps you have an expensive rebuild on your hands. If the adjusters rattle you can just put up with it. The only fix is new & expensive adjusters.
So the safe option even if people disagree with me is to pull a new chain & fit a new tensioner. Chain replacement should be a service item on the M271.
Hey Glyn,
I hope you're well, sir. So I'm gathering all of the parts for the Timing Chain and I'm going to pay an Indy to help me do the job. I just wanted to pick your brain on the recommended replacement parts since I'll have the valve cover off.
5. Guide Rails?? Is it necessary to change all 3 guides? I know it's contingent upon how bad the chain is stretched, but will there be an added benefit in doing so?
6. After chain replacement, I will be doing a 229.5 oil change once everythings put back together.
Thanks again, I'm missing anything else, please-please let me know.
Parts are in... Just ready to get this over with. All in all, these parts cost a total of $155 out the door on rmeuropean. All quality OEM. I will continue to update as I do this job.
It has begun!! Doing at 95,000 miles. Chain has not skipped yet luckily, this job is preventative.
Everything's apart and I will be breaking the old and pulling the new chain tomorrow morning. Only holdup was getting the Valve Cover off without breaking any cables, clips, or wires; and also getting the PS Pump/Alternator off to get to the tensioner was a pain in my rump. I'll edit in more details later, but here is the progress. You probably can't tell, but the stock chain is actually IWIS as well.
Again, thank you guys at MBWorld for bringing this to my attention and concerned warning. The indy is letting me do the job myself while using his tools, and he helps when I need it. He said he was appalled that MB designs a chain so SMALL for this engine... I hope this spreads more awareness to current/future owners of the M271. As you can see, it's caused minimal damage along the cam sprocket teeth. I'm really hoping they're ok.
Chained stock fuel filter while I was at it. MB stamped logo with Hengst as well. The indy said it as totally blocked. It had blackish fuel coming out the filtering side when I drained it.
As close to TDC as I could get. Timing is a bit off.
TDC*
TDC*
Last edited by Norsk_Johnson; 12-29-2015 at 12:30 AM.
Good luck dude...
From the looks of it the chain has a bit of a sag across the top guide. Timely job. This is what mine looked like before the change, it had stretched minimally.. https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...hain-pics.html
Also, your timing marks will not be dead on...even after the new chain is in. With the intake side aligned, the exhaust side will be a tad off. Make sure to reference the correct timing marks lol..those large dents on the adjusters are not timing marks.
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
Hi Norsk. Got your mail. There is some wear on those sprockets. It's not chronic. It will certainly take another chain & last a long while. You just have to understand that worn sprockets accelerate wear on the new chain. Those sprockets are hellish expensive. I would fit the new chain & use once tensioner & always listen to the engine at cold starts, which is good practice with the M271.
Hi Norsk. Got your mail. There is some wear on those sprockets. It's not chronic. It will certainly take another chain & last a long while. You just have to understand that worn sprockets accelerate wear on the new chain. Those sprockets are hellish expensive. I would fit the new chain & use once tensioner & always listen to the engine at cold starts, which is good practice with the M271.
Thanks Glyn! Will be pulling new Chain and Fitting the new Tensioner element tomorrow. Now that I see the chain & sprockets, I'm I very glad I did this now and didn't put it off. It evident the chain was on its way out...
Indeed, Glyn. So we got the chain attached and aligned to TDC. Judging by the crank/cam marks, this old chain has stretched 3-4mm. Everything is DEAD on now. Tensioner is in, cams are lined and crank is directly on OT. These cams are JUMPY little buggers, good god.
Had a little holdup because while crimping the new chain, we used a metal file to keep a flush surface behind the pins when peening the new chain. Well, a couple pieces broke off the file and went into the engine... So, consequently we had to drop the oil pan and retrieve the pieces, further delaying the job... At least the pan will get resealed.
Last edited by Norsk_Johnson; 12-29-2015 at 11:10 PM.
I dropped a tool into the crank case too! After 15 minutes of uttering choice words, I resigned myself to dropping the oil pan, but half an hour with a magnetic picker upper and I managed to retrieve it.
Working on the flex discs and center bearing now....
Thanks guys! Yes, VVF, it was painful. Luckily I had two mechanics to help the disassembly/reassembly and search for the damned pieces. I'm not as mechanically inclined as RWD, so I was lucky (Well done RWD). Oh, to think when I first bought the C230K SS, I was afraid to remove a lightbulb. Now I'm digging into the timing of the vehicle...
I finally reassembled the engine, started her up and she cranked over with no issues! THE timing of the engine has been fixed!!!!!!
For those who are reading this thread, do yourself a favor and listen the Glyn, Hogger, and RWD. I tried like hell to do ANYTHING to quiet down that chatter noise on startup, well, when I finally dug into my engine, the chain was indeed stretched (3-4mm) and was 5-10K miles away from catastrophic damage, maybe even sooner. Those cams on these engines are SO JUMPY and if that chain does not have enough tension, they WILL skip.
One Small Problem:
After driving the car for around 15-20 miles on and off, I threw a (Bank 1) P0171 CEL "Engine too Lean". I threw this code about 10 months ago and took it to a certified MB Indy for diag. They said they cleared the code and if it comes back, come see them. Well, it never did, so I figured it was ok.
I changed the fuel filter (Genuine Bosch) while the car was hoisted up, and all lines were properly clamped. Could unsettled crud in the fuel lines cause this after changing?
Faulty MAF?
Faulty Gas Cap? Even though it seems nice an snug?
Disconnecting the negative terminal of the battery cause resurface of code?
Any other ideas gents? I wouldn't be too worried about this right now had I not spent 3 days working on the car, AND emission coming up early Jan.
late 2009 CLK 350 Coupe Elegance, '65 Jaguar S Type wires
You can clean the MAF but I would try & get some miles on the car & cancel the code. Sometimes after disturbing things the Fuel Trim can float out & it takes some miles to auto calibrate again.
Thanks Glyn, I'm about to make a 7 hour drive back to Atlanta, so I guess we'll see. I'll probably add some Techron and give her an Italian Tuning while I'm at it..
03-12-2015, 02:38 PM
