What would you do?
03-28-2015, 04:50 PM
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2004 c200
What would you do?
Hi- I've been reading these forums for the last fortnight and have ended up in knots.
Basically- was given this car 2004 from a friend for a good price but bought it mainly due to quick/ easy transaction. I've just relocated to grand Cayman and needed a car asap. Bought from a trusted friend but have had endless problems since day 1.
The ac, wipers, windows and indicators worked intermittently then died but radio and low level ac both work regardless of other issues. Day 1 the alternator warning light flashed but seemed fine after. After a week the key started not being recognised by ignition. After 2 weeks it died. I can still lock/ unlock it but no clunk when I enter key. So can't turn in ignition. Windows stuck down. Got towed to dealership who charged $50 to tell me key was defective. Quoted $ 500 for new key ( no spare) , $100 diagnostic test, by my description they reckon the SAM unit $400-1000. If that's even what's wrong.
All this dependent on if the new key gets the car going.
Due to my location there's only 1 dealership so not got a lot of bargaining power. But if I get the key from dealership can I then use another mechanic for diagnostic testing?
I've not ordered a key yet as I'm worried that it's just the tip of the iceberg but can't get any real idea until I have a key- catch 22.
Also are these problems likely to have occurred in some way before( have I been misled?) or am I just really unlucky?
From other posts I've read I'm wondering if they hosed the engine down a bit carelessly or changed the battery which blew electrics( although fuses look ok). I have noticed a large collection of bulbs in glove box and the bulbs over the rear reg plate are blown out.
So many issues- should I work away at the problems $$$ or just cut my losses and never buy a car from a friend again.
Any advice/ opinions very welcome.
I realise this crosses a lot of existing posts but as the problems accumulated I just feel stuck.
Thanks
Basically- was given this car 2004 from a friend for a good price but bought it mainly due to quick/ easy transaction. I've just relocated to grand Cayman and needed a car asap. Bought from a trusted friend but have had endless problems since day 1.
The ac, wipers, windows and indicators worked intermittently then died but radio and low level ac both work regardless of other issues. Day 1 the alternator warning light flashed but seemed fine after. After a week the key started not being recognised by ignition. After 2 weeks it died. I can still lock/ unlock it but no clunk when I enter key. So can't turn in ignition. Windows stuck down. Got towed to dealership who charged $50 to tell me key was defective. Quoted $ 500 for new key ( no spare) , $100 diagnostic test, by my description they reckon the SAM unit $400-1000. If that's even what's wrong.
All this dependent on if the new key gets the car going.
Due to my location there's only 1 dealership so not got a lot of bargaining power. But if I get the key from dealership can I then use another mechanic for diagnostic testing?
I've not ordered a key yet as I'm worried that it's just the tip of the iceberg but can't get any real idea until I have a key- catch 22.
Also are these problems likely to have occurred in some way before( have I been misled?) or am I just really unlucky?
From other posts I've read I'm wondering if they hosed the engine down a bit carelessly or changed the battery which blew electrics( although fuses look ok). I have noticed a large collection of bulbs in glove box and the bulbs over the rear reg plate are blown out.
So many issues- should I work away at the problems $$$ or just cut my losses and never buy a car from a friend again.
Any advice/ opinions very welcome.
I realise this crosses a lot of existing posts but as the problems accumulated I just feel stuck.
Thanks
03-28-2015, 09:49 PM
#2
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How old is the battery? What voltage does it show now?
When my battery was at 11v the steering lock took noticeably longer time than usual to disengage.
Check that first, and then it may be the Electronic Ignition (EIS).
Some material to study: https://www.google.com/search?q=w203...F-8#q=w203+eis
To me it sounds like the dealer is trying to make money on you. First they order the $200 key for $500, then they will tell you the new key also doesn't work so it must be EIS,
then it will turn out to be the SAM etc etc.
They did a "diagnostic test" - what did they test and what are the results? Did they scan for codes using STAR DAS?
Good luck man...
When my battery was at 11v the steering lock took noticeably longer time than usual to disengage.
Check that first, and then it may be the Electronic Ignition (EIS).
Some material to study: https://www.google.com/search?q=w203...F-8#q=w203+eis
To me it sounds like the dealer is trying to make money on you. First they order the $200 key for $500, then they will tell you the new key also doesn't work so it must be EIS,
then it will turn out to be the SAM etc etc.
They did a "diagnostic test" - what did they test and what are the results? Did they scan for codes using STAR DAS?
Good luck man...
03-29-2015, 02:47 AM
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2004 c200
Thanks for the reply.
From what I've read I need to use the dealership whether it's the key or the eis so they can be programmed? Or can I go independent?
The dealership have said that it's the key and the $500 is Cayman dollars- so it's $600 usd!!! Scarey-But doubting its the key after reading the links you sent- the eis problem sounds very familiar. But I don't think they'll do any work unless I get a new key- no tests done yet as they need the key to start it( is this true?) or can they test it without the key and then let me know the next step?
Thanks so much for any advice- getting in a right panic here. 😩
From what I've read I need to use the dealership whether it's the key or the eis so they can be programmed? Or can I go independent?
The dealership have said that it's the key and the $500 is Cayman dollars- so it's $600 usd!!! Scarey-But doubting its the key after reading the links you sent- the eis problem sounds very familiar. But I don't think they'll do any work unless I get a new key- no tests done yet as they need the key to start it( is this true?) or can they test it without the key and then let me know the next step?
Thanks so much for any advice- getting in a right panic here. 😩
03-29-2015, 07:57 PM
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2003 CL203 C320, 2002 W208 CLK320 cabriolet, 2012 A207 E350 cabriolet, 2011 X204 GLK350 4matic
Well honestly I would assume it's a fault with the front SAM as well. A faulty front SAM module can make it look like your car is causing a heap of problems when it really isn't. It really isn't too far-fetched IMO for the dealer to diagnose it being an issue with the module.
I'd do what VVF said and I'd check the battery voltage first. A crappy battery would also cause a bunch of faults.
I'd do what VVF said and I'd check the battery voltage first. A crappy battery would also cause a bunch of faults.
03-29-2015, 08:39 PM
#5
Senior Member
[QUOTE=VVF;6380488]How old is the battery? What voltage does it show now?
When my battery was at 11v the steering lock took noticeably longer time than usual to disengage.
Check that first, and then it may be the Electronic Ignition (EIS).
Some material to study: https://www.google.com/search?q=w203...F-8#q=w203+eis
To me it sounds like the dealer is trying to make money on you. First they order the $200 key for $500, then they will tell you the new key also doesn't work so it must be EIS,
then it will turn out to be the SAM etc etc.
It's a lot cheaper to replace the battery (@ Sears less than $200 US) before go on ....). In my past experience, one of my MB throw out all find of error messages (EOS, ABS not operative...), the car would NOT start at the 1st turn as normal. I replaced the battery, all the error messages are gone, the car start & run perfectly. MB is very sensitive with the low battery's voltage. Try to replace the main battery 1st before go on with the others...Good luck.
When my battery was at 11v the steering lock took noticeably longer time than usual to disengage.
Check that first, and then it may be the Electronic Ignition (EIS).
Some material to study: https://www.google.com/search?q=w203...F-8#q=w203+eis
To me it sounds like the dealer is trying to make money on you. First they order the $200 key for $500, then they will tell you the new key also doesn't work so it must be EIS,
then it will turn out to be the SAM etc etc.
It's a lot cheaper to replace the battery (@ Sears less than $200 US) before go on ....). In my past experience, one of my MB throw out all find of error messages (EOS, ABS not operative...), the car would NOT start at the 1st turn as normal. I replaced the battery, all the error messages are gone, the car start & run perfectly. MB is very sensitive with the low battery's voltage. Try to replace the main battery 1st before go on with the others...Good luck.
03-29-2015, 10:01 PM
#6
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Use OEM Mercedes-Benz car battery,.... do NOT use any aftermarket battery,...
03-30-2015, 01:17 AM
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2005 C Wagon (No snickering please!)
Mercedes has changed the part number for the battery to the AGM type. This is about double the price of the original more conventional battery. There is no benefit for an older car. Find a 100A battery from Benz. They are still specified for some vehicles, and many dealers stock them.
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03-31-2015, 11:34 PM
#8
Senior Member
Sorry I have no suggestions but have to interject it is ok to get a battery that is not OEM. I have not had a problem with a Checkers / OReilly battery and they are actually rated higher than OEM. (more CCA/CA/AH)
03-31-2015, 11:58 PM
#10
Senior Member
I have an OEM batt at home (bad) and will take pic of what that one is rated and take pic of the aftermarket batt in my car. In general from what I get the AH = +/- 1/2 RC so about 90 AH for those which isn't bad for a non deep cycle.
04-02-2015, 03:40 PM
#11
Senior Member
Ok I stand corrected on the AH of my battery being more than OEM but it is comparable and the CA/CCA is definitely a lot more.
OEM = 100 AH, 700 CA, ? CCA
OReilly = ~92 AH, 1105 CA, 900 CCA
Bottom line you can use any battery as long as the ratings meet or exceed OEM. Granted people have their own opinions and experiences with some brands where they had problems with them not lasting or even where they last a long time, but Mercedes doesn't make batteries either--they are just made for them.
OEM = 100 AH, 700 CA, ? CCA
OReilly = ~92 AH, 1105 CA, 900 CCA
Bottom line you can use any battery as long as the ratings meet or exceed OEM. Granted people have their own opinions and experiences with some brands where they had problems with them not lasting or even where they last a long time, but Mercedes doesn't make batteries either--they are just made for them.
04-03-2015, 06:28 PM
#12
Ok I stand corrected on the AH of my battery being more than OEM but it is comparable and the CA/CCA is definitely a lot more.
OEM = 100 AH, 700 CA, ? CCA
OReilly = ~92 AH, 1105 CA, 900 CCA
Bottom line you can use any battery as long as the ratings meet or exceed OEM. Granted people have their own opinions and experiences with some brands where they had problems with them not lasting or even where they last a long time, but Mercedes doesn't make batteries either--they are just made for them.
Attachment 306993
Attachment 306994
OEM = 100 AH, 700 CA, ? CCA
OReilly = ~92 AH, 1105 CA, 900 CCA
Bottom line you can use any battery as long as the ratings meet or exceed OEM. Granted people have their own opinions and experiences with some brands where they had problems with them not lasting or even where they last a long time, but Mercedes doesn't make batteries either--they are just made for them.
Attachment 306993
Attachment 306994
