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I've noticed this new noise as of recent on my W203/M271 05' C230 SS, when I turn the the ignition to phase 2 (Before Starting). It's a clicking noise that's coming from what appears to be the Throttle Body. I searched this forum and have yet to find a topic related to this symptom.
Anyone have an idea what this is and/or have the same symptoms?
Can't open the vid..
I do hear a bunch of clicking,whirring etc when the key is in 2 just before start. If I keep the key there without starting the clicking etc stops after a few seconds.
Can't open the vid..
I do hear a bunch of clicking,whirring etc when the key is in 2 just before start. If I keep the key there without starting the clicking etc stops after a few seconds.
RWD!! How are you, man! Been a while. I hope all is well. I'm still loving the Head Unit, I baby that plastic display (Armor All) like no other. Haha.
Check the Link now, I changed the security settings on it. Thanks
Looks like something is off there...mine doesn't do that...
If you are brave, you can actually open up the TB and clean up the gunk inside it. Not a difficult DIY at all...the insides of the TB get quite dirty and the soot builds up under the contact brushes..
Any CEL?
RWD - So, I watched a TB DIY and it does seem pretty easy. I have only two questions:
1. From my understanding, the TB is electronic, so in order properly clean around the flap, I must move it downwards. To avoid having any ECU "re-Learning" issues afterwards, while the car is in ignition 2, do you recommend having someone press on the gas pedal while I clean?
2. Is it ok to spray the CRC TB cleaner directly into the the TB, or should I spray on rag then clean?
*These are specifics that were not iterated on any DIY I came across.
Last edited by Norsk_Johnson; 09-16-2015 at 11:32 PM.
So, ended up looking at the TB, and... Oh.. My.. God!! I figured it would have been dirty, but this was beyond what I was expecting. Is this even normal??
Yup..they get dirty. When cleaning it it's ok to just move the flap by hand, also good idea to do a TB reset when done. I do this a couple of times a year, never had a prob.
Yup..they get dirty. When cleaning it it's ok to just move the flap by hand, also good idea to do a TB reset when done. I do this a couple of times a year, never had a prob.
Oh good to know - Thanks again, man. How do you do a TB reset and what are the benefits?
A TB reset makes the TB "unlearn"....as you drive the car gets a feel for your driving habits and the TB makes subtle changes to how it responds to pedal input. Resetting the TB results in sharper, more crisp response...of course with time it adapts again. I have a stick shift, and every time I do a reset it's like I'm driving stick for the first time...you can definitely feel the difference.
The how: With the doors closed, turn the key to 2, then floor the gas pedal past the stop. After about 5 seconds, turn the key to off but do not remove it. Now release the gas pedal, then wait ~2 minutes. Some people have stated that the wait is unnecessary but I do it anyway.
Good deal. So I ended up giving it one more good cleaning with a toothbrush this time. Afterwords I followed your directions as instructed. I must say, the car is a little more responsive off the line.
This is as clean as I could get it without taking the TB ouT.
Thanks bro, I take pride in Rosa (That's her name). I feel like a clean engine bay keeps for a less temperamental car. I always tell my buddies, MB is like a very sexy woman, high maintenance and expensive if you don't treat right, but well worth the ride. Haha!
The TB took some more elbow grease, now that I had the ***** to open the flap and really get in there and scrub with a toothbrush and rag, It's night and day from what it was. While I was at it, I cleaned out the AirBox plus I can inspect my new K&N filter I slapped in there a couple weeks ago - I hear a lot of complainers on that thing messing up the MAF, it's been good to me so far. As far as the clicking, it seem to only do it when it has sat for a while, I'll keep you posted on any update.
I got that intake tube at Autozone for like $25. My stock tube was rotted to hell and I needed to get crafty without buying a whole new one.
I ripped out all of the old tubing, wiped everything down, then the new accordion-like tube fit into (2) PVC Couplers. Then I wedged the rubber Couplers directly into the round space where the old tubing went. I was very pleased. I'll update soon..
Last edited by Norsk_Johnson; 09-18-2015 at 09:37 AM.
It was a little colder this morning, and when I turned to ignition 2, there was no clicking sound!! On top of it all, the car idles much smoother at startup, and has a bit more kick on the throttle. I am beyond happy with the outcome of this small project. Anyone who has the M271, I would HIGHLY recommend this DIY!!
@RWD: I found the part for you, in case you or anyone who stumbles across this thread would like to change your stock Air Duct Hose for a fairly cheap price. Here are both places to find:
**Update** There hasn't been anymore of the loud clicking sound coming from the TB anymore. It's obvious it was very dirty and needed a good cleaning. It hasn't been too cold yet in the morning so I'll post any differences in the idling at cold start, so far so good!
@RWD, one question I do have is since cleaning the TB, I've noticed an egg/sulfur smell coming from the exhaust. Based on my research on MBWorld, this is related to the Catalytic Converter. It very well could be a batch (too much sulfur) of bad gas I got from QT last Sunday, 93 Octane of course. Could the cleaning/resetting of TB cause this? What other factors should I take into consideration? In addition, what gas brand is best to use in your opinion? Shell, Chevron?
(Using 5.5L of 5W-40 Pennzoil Pure Plus Euro (229.5), and added 275 ml of Liqui-Moly MOS2 Anti-Friction Additive to it at change. Also using OE Hengst Oil Filter?)
Last edited by Norsk_Johnson; 09-24-2015 at 12:07 PM.
Hey man...sorry been on the road..
I don't think cleaning the TB would result in any new smells..the residue from whatever you used to clean it wouldn't last long. I would stay away from oil additives though. The oil you are using is already 229.5 approved, adding additives is not necessary, and may actually alter the way it behaves. MB actually advises against oil additives of any kind.
I personally prefer shell gas, I actually get better mpg with it (calculated, not from the mfd). When I had the 3 series I found that the car was peppier with shell 93 vs other brands, and also gave better mpg. For a period of about 2 years I only got gas at one particular shell gas station...lol.
Thanks bud, yeah I knew about the oil additives ahead of time, but since the Liqui-Moly was German engineered, I figured what the hell. Oh well, car runs fine though, if it's gets worse, I'll drain the oils and refill with fresh oil.
Yeah, my old man swears by Shell too, so I'll take you're advice on that one!
Next job, Fuel Filter. There's a few DIY's on here I can find, but any helpful tips would be appreciated. Thanks as always dude. Hope all is well!
Ps - due to scare factor, eventually im going to suck it up, and swap the chain. I read through Hoggers thread again and tempted to just buy the parts and pay an Indy. I'm becoming more confident, but boy it looks scary...
Fuel filter is easy...just make sure you depressurize the system before you disconnect the hoses otherwise you'll get a faceful of 93 octane. You don't need a diy..it's on the driver side just forward of the rear tire behind a cover, and held by a bracket. You'll need new hose clamps, the MB ones are not reusable unless you have a special tool. Pretty straight forward R&R.
The chain job looks tougher than it is...I did one on a Saab 900 which was waaay harder. Good call using an indy if you are not comfortable...a mistake could cost $$$$
Just some tips. There is no harm in opening the throttle valve manually as long as the ign is off. Never try it with ign on. The ecu will try force it closed again and will set a fault code. As for the noises if you switch the ign on with car in park and do not touch the pedal after around 10 to 20 seconds the ecu will relearn the end stops. There is no unlearn procedure it is a learn procedure. If it was in fact unlearned you will end up with ESP lamps on and no throttle when you start the car. As for your sulphur smell. That is because after a clean you should also reset the mixture adaptation. It will correct itself in time.
JAs for the noises if you switch the ign on with car in park and do not touch the pedal after around 10 to 20 seconds the ecu will relearn the end stops.
As for your sulphur smell. That is because after a clean you should also reset the mixture adaptation. It will correct itself in time.
Great tips, Russell. Thanks man! Question: So for the "Learning" process, you're saying turn the ignition to position 2, basically don't touch anything for 10-20 seconds then ECU will relearn?
Correct. Ign position 2 and don't touch throttle. Car in park. If you remove the intake pipe and watch throttle plate you will see the process run as the plate is taken to its end stop. As for mixture adaptation you will need star or a obd tool that allows you to reset mixture adaptation. You can also carry out throttle body learning with star.
Fuel filter is easy...just make sure you depressurize the system before you disconnect the hoses otherwise you'll get a faceful of 93 octane. You don't need a diy..it's on the driver side just forward of the rear tire behind a cover, and held by a bracket. You'll need new hose clamps, the MB ones are not reusable unless you have a special tool. Pretty straight forward R&R.
The chain job looks tougher than it is...I did one on a Saab 900 which was waaay harder. Good call using an indy if you are not comfortable...a mistake could cost $$$$
Hey RWD, Hope you're well buddy. I know I'm a bit ADD with changing subjects with these threads, but regarding the TC..
My old man found a guy who's a MB tech and he's going to help me with the chain. I'm building a parts list now and I want to make sure I'm thorough. I've read through all of the threads, but I want to get your personal opinion.
1. Brand quality of both chain and tensioner, which is better? FEBI or IWIS?
2. What's the part# for the piece you have to destroy to get to the tensioner?
3. Did you change your TC (upper) guide rails as well? I know this answer is contingent upon the condition of the adjuster sprockets and how stretched the chain is.
4. Is there anything else I should look at or replace while I have the engine exposed? Besides all valve cover gaskets?
Ps - On another little project I'm working on, I just ordered a set of both sway bar bushings and sway bar end links. Since it's gotten cold, my suspension sounds like a squeaky bed going over speed bumps! Good choice of brand for both?
I used the IWIS chain and febi tensioner. The tensioner plug part # is 0009976220. As far as the guides, you can only reach 2 out of 3 without removing the timing case. I only replaced the top guide (item 26)
While you're in there, you could change the oil filter housing gasket (item 23) and the oil cooler gasket (item 35), both of which are prone to leaking...you'll have to remove the intake manifold though. Also, there is a plastic coolant pipe (item 70, part # 2712001352) coming off the oil cooler into the back of the head that gets brittle and can crack...easy fix even though it's a pricey little part.
As for the bushings and end links, I'd recommend OEM Mercedes or Lemforder (OE supplier).
Good luck...
I used the IWIS chain and febi tensioner. The tensioner plug part # is 0009976220. As far as the guides, you can only reach 2 out of 3 without removing the timing case. I only replaced the top guide (item 26)
While you're in there, you could change the oil filter housing gasket (item 23) and the oil cooler gasket (item 35), both of which are prone to leaking...you'll have to remove the intake manifold though. Also, there is a plastic coolant pipe (item 70, part # 2712001352) coming off the oil cooler into the back of the head that gets brittle and can crack...easy fix even though it's a pricey little part.
As for the bushings and end links, I'd recommend OEM Mercedes or Lemforder (OE supplier).
Good luck...
Good deal, thank you again for the advice, man. I will replace all in which you recommended. Will post pictures of my experience as well.
In regards to the end links, Beck/Arnley not a good brand? They're almost as expensive as all Lemforder on all auto part sites. Meyle Bushings are OE from what I recall. Btw, when doing the suspension work, can I replace both links and bushings while the front end is on my ramps, or is it best to do when front end is jacked up?
Last edited by Norsk_Johnson; 11-15-2015 at 04:50 PM.
09-10-2015, 12:02 PM
