Installing the ASP pulley on an '02 C230 w/Automatic Trans by yourself...

[rtking]

I decided to try installing the pulley by myself. It actually wasn't difficult at all. Since I have the automatic transmission, the engine can "free wheel" and not provide any resistance when trying to loosen the crank bolt. I was able to do the job without removing the under tray for the engine as well. This is what I did: 1) Using a T30 bit, I removed the coil pack cover. 2) I removed the connectors for all 4 coil packs (to prevent the engine from starting) 3) I used a 27mm deep socket on a 1/2" ratchet and put it up to the crank bolt. 4) I put a rag under the handle for the ratchet and let it lie on the lower radiator support 5) I used a 2x4" piece of wood to protect the radiator from the ratchet (if it decided to fly or break.) 6) I "bumped" the motor over using the starter motor to break-free the crank bolt. Everything else was pretty straight forward. Tightening the bolt to ASP's recommended 85 lb-ft. required my torque wrench and the same technique of laying it against the lower radiator support. Worked like a charm! Bob P.S. Love that pulley! It makes the car much more lively!

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[Buellwinkle]

That 85 ft-lbs was for their older design aluminum pulley. Since the new design uses the factory pulley as a basis you should torque it to 200 ft-lbs per MB.

[bkmotor]

Where did you buy the pully from and how much was it ?

I have a W203 04 C230...

Please advice.
Thanks !!

[rtking]

Thanks Buellwinkle! I'll tighten again tomorrow to 200 lb-ft. You were right... it does transform the feel of the car! Very nice!

bkmotor: the pulley is for a M111 engined car (2000 - 2002 C230 sedans and 2002 C230 Coupes.) ASP sells them for $650 including core charge. You've got a 2004 C230 with the 1.8 liter motor and I don't think a pulley exists yet for that motor. I think someone is working on a pulley system, but I haven't been following who that might be...

Bob

[bkmotor]

Bob,

Thank you, for your quick respons...
Oh.. well...
Thanks again

Will

[jayitx]

Originally Posted by rtking

I decided to try installing the pulley by myself. It actually wasn't difficult at all. Since I have the automatic transmission, the engine can "free wheel" and not provide any resistance when trying to loosen the crank bolt. I was able to do the job without removing the under tray for the engine as well. This is what I did:

1) Using a T30 bit, I removed the coil pack cover.
2) I removed the connectors for all 4 coil packs (to prevent the engine from starting)
3) I used a 27mm deep socket on a 1/2" ratchet and put it up to the crank bolt.
4) I put a rag under the handle for the ratchet and let it lie on the lower radiator support
5) I used a 2x4" piece of wood to protect the radiator from the ratchet (if it decided to fly or break.)
6) I "bumped" the motor over using the starter motor to break-free the crank bolt.

Everything else was pretty straight forward. Tightening the bolt to ASP's recommended 85 lb-ft. required my torque wrench and the same technique of laying it against the lower radiator support. Worked like a charm!

Bob

P.S. Love that pulley! It makes the car much more lively!

Good info!! Now I feel more comfortable about installing mine (as soon as I buy it) on my C32. Thanks!!

[rtking]

Thanks to Buellwinkle for telling me to torque the ASP crankshaft pulley on to 200 lb-ft. I found a quick way to do it without having to lift the car. I simply inserted an Allen Wrench into one of the lightening holes on the pulley closest to the water pump pulley. Then I inserted the 27mm socket onto the crankshaft bolt. I torqued the bolt gently (to not "shock" the Allen Wrench and water pump pulley/bearing) and then applied steady pressure until I achieved 200 lb-ft. Worked like a charm!

Bob

[jayitx]

Originally Posted by rtking

I decided to try installing the pulley by myself. It actually wasn't difficult at all. Since I have the automatic transmission, the engine can "free wheel" and not provide any resistance when trying to loosen the crank bolt. I was able to do the job without removing the under tray for the engine as well. This is what I did:

1) Using a T30 bit, I removed the coil pack cover.
2) I removed the connectors for all 4 coil packs (to prevent the engine from starting)
3) I used a 27mm deep socket on a 1/2" ratchet and put it up to the crank bolt.
4) I put a rag under the handle for the ratchet and let it lie on the lower radiator support
5) I used a 2x4" piece of wood to protect the radiator from the ratchet (if it decided to fly or break.)
6) I "bumped" the motor over using the starter motor to break-free the crank bolt.

Everything else was pretty straight forward. Tightening the bolt to ASP's recommended 85 lb-ft. required my torque wrench and the same technique of laying it against the lower radiator support. Worked like a charm!

Bob

P.S. Love that pulley! It makes the car much more lively!

This post is great, since I'm looking at installing my ASP pulleys myself. I still have 1 question though. I have the 3 pulleys, and know which ones to swap out for the crank and water pump. But which pulley is the 3rd, smaller one, and where is the one it replaces? I searched and can't find any pictures or description of the other pulley. I think it's the tensioner, but I'm not sure and I can't figure out which one it is by looking at the engine. It has no grooves, and I'd assume that the stock one it replaces also has no grooves but that could be wrong too. Can one of you guys help me? I have an '04 C32.

[MrSpace]

Me I placed a wrench in the torque converter

and with the factory pullye it's 200lbs-ft of torque!

Etienne

[mdp c230k]

Originally Posted by jayitx

This post is great, since I'm looking at installing my ASP pulleys myself. I still have 1 question though. I have the 3 pulleys, and know which ones to swap out for the crank and water pump. But which pulley is the 3rd, smaller one, and where is the one it replaces? I searched and can't find any pictures or description of the other pulley. I think it's the tensioner, but I'm not sure and I can't figure out which one it is by looking at the engine. It has no grooves, and I'd assume that the stock one it replaces also has no grooves but that could be wrong too. Can one of you guys help me? I have an '04 C32.

It is the tensioner pulley.

[Justinius7]

quick question...

How did you "bump" the starter with the igition? Doesn't the car go into "auto-start" mode soon as you tap the #3 position on the key?

i had a fuel pump go out on my ML and soon as you tap the start and let go of the key, the car would crank itself over for about 10 seconds. On my C, I also just tap the key and auto start kicks in. So with out the coils hooked up i would imagine the starter would continuously run for the 10 second cycle.

[jayitx]

Originally Posted by Justinius7

quick question...

How did you "bump" the starter with the igition? Doesn't the car go into "auto-start" mode soon as you tap the #3 position on the key?

i had a fuel pump go out on my ML and soon as you tap the start and let go of the key, the car would crank itself over for about 10 seconds. On my C, I also just tap the key and auto start kicks in. So with out the coils hooked up i would imagine the starter would continuously run for the 10 second cycle.

I'm still wondering that myself. If you tap it and quickly turn it back and pull the key out, it will still crank a couple of times. That's too scary for me--I don't trust it. I'll probably just stick a wrench into the torque converter to keep it from moving, as someone else suggested.

[tuscanraider]

Originally Posted by rtking

Thanks Buellwinkle! I'll tighten again tomorrow to 200 lb-ft. You were right... it does transform the feel of the car! Very nice!

bkmotor: the pulley is for a M111 engined car (2000 - 2002 C230 sedans and 2002 C230 Coupes.) ASP sells them for $650 including core charge. You've got a 2004 C230 with the 1.8 liter motor and I don't think a pulley exists yet for that motor. I think someone is working on a pulley system, but I haven't been following who that might be...

Bob

Wait!!! $650 for a 3 pulley set??? You can get a set for a Ford for $100 and the QUALITY IS THE SAME. Is this just an example of raping a guy because its a MB? No piece of machined metal is actually worth $600!!

[mdp c230k]

Originally Posted by tuscanraider

Wait!!! $650 for a 3 pulley set??? You can get a set for a Ford for $100 and the QUALITY IS THE SAME. Is this just an example of raping a guy because its a MB? No piece of machined metal is actually worth $600!!

The pulley is built from a stock pulley that has been modded with a larger ring welded on and balanced. The stock pulley is close to $300 by itself. It is a Mercedes, not a Ford!

[hobie]

I've had my dealer do my pulley, they're cool with it as long as I accept the caveats. When they removed the !st gen aluminum pulley they took the starter off to leverage the flywheel.

[drexappeal]

Originally Posted by bkmotor

Where did you buy the pully from and how much was it ?

I have a W203 04 C230...

Please advice.
Thanks !!

Well, if you're looking into getting a pulley for your car, this isn't the right one for you. This is for the 2.3L (M111) engine.

Since you've got an '04 230, you have a 1.8L (M271) engine.

Try surching for "Pulley upgrade" and you'll find info on pulley kits available for the M271. Limited, but there are a few available.

[nukblazi]

For all those who suddenly feel comfortable with DYI on a pulley install, please note there is no mention of the key in the original post. So, either the author knows what he is doing to the point of it being second nature, or he doesn't comprehend the importance of the key.

Do a search and you should be able to find plenty of examples of what goes wrong when you install the new pulley improperly.

Tom

[jayitx]

Originally Posted by nukblazi

For all those who suddenly feel comfortable with DYI on a pulley install, please note there is no mention of the key in the original post. So, either the author knows what he is doing to the point of it being second nature, or he doesn't comprehend the importance of the key.

Do a search and you should be able to find plenty of examples of what goes wrong when you install the new pulley improperly.

Tom

Thanks for the reminder. I've searched this forum and other MB forums and feel I have a good set of instructions, which do include mention of the key. I read the posts about the guy who sheared off his key and other comments. I also noticed that my new pulley has a slot for the key so I expected one to be there. I'm not at all concerned about swapping the pulleys, my only concern is sticking a wrench into the torque converter to keep if from moving.

[MrSpace]

sticking the wrench in the torque converter is nothing

I did it on my car 3 times

Etienne