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Old 02-16-2010, 11:43 PM   #76
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I changed the oil in my 2009 4Matic Sport this weekend using a Motive Power Extractor 1708 and the aluminum dipstick tube adapter from Fluid Evacuators (Part # PR381Q). Pressurized the extractor to approximately 12 in.Hg (see pic) and pulled 8qt of oil in 20-25 minutes before the pump started sputtering and the pressure dropped to 0. Not bad considering the oil soaked filter. Ignore the metal hose clamp in the second to last picture; I thought I would need to clamp the tube around the aluminum dipstick adapter to make it air tight, but the O ring on the tip of the adapter created an air tight seal with the tube.
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DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures-mbenz.gif   DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures-img00037-20100213-12131.jpg   DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures-img00035-20100213-12131.jpg   DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures-img00036-20100213-12131.jpg   DIY oil change, step by step, with pictures-img00040-20100213-12151.jpg  

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Old 02-17-2010, 01:23 PM   #77
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congrats, I think you are the 1st one to evac all the oil from a W204 4MATIC, and perhaps a W203 4MATIC. Was the oil hot? 20-25 minutes sounds a bit long.

Of course, Gurus #1 and #2 from W203 would say you just need help in how to use an inserted tube, as they told me.
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:07 PM   #78
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That fluid evacuator, is it electric? How do you pressurize it?
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Old 02-17-2010, 08:19 PM   #79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyca View Post
That fluid evacuator, is it electric? How do you pressurize it?
Looks like it is a hand pump.
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Old 02-17-2010, 10:12 PM   #80
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kevink2 View Post
congrats, I think you are the 1st one to evac all the oil from a W204 4MATIC, and perhaps a W203 4MATIC. Was the oil hot? 20-25 minutes sounds a bit long.

Of course, Gurus #1 and #2 from W203 would say you just need help in how to use an inserted tube, as they told me.
Seams like I left about 1/2qt in the system. The oil temp was ~40 degrees, so that might explain the duration. I didn't time the process precisely, so offered a conservative estimate. My main objective was to use the same process that an authorized service technician would employ (without purchasing a $200+ evacuation system). Would probably need to repeat this process a few more times, but the initial conclusion is that a manual
Pneumatic extractor (at least this model) is able to generate enough pressure to evacuate oil from the dipstick top and avoid the need to insert a tube down to the bottom of the oil pan.

Last edited by Tartan43; 02-17-2010 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 02-17-2010, 10:22 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nyca View Post
That fluid evacuator, is it electric? How do you pressurize it?
It is manual (hand pump). There is a hose clamp that comes attached to the tube. You simply pinch the tube shut, pump the handle several times until the dial shows 12-15 in.Hg, stick the aluminum adapter into the dipstick tube, and release the clamp. The oil comes up almost instantaneously.

Last edited by Tartan43; 02-17-2010 at 10:26 PM.
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Old 02-18-2010, 12:23 PM   #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tartan43 View Post
[FONT=Verdana]Seams like I left about 1/2qt in the system. The oil temp was ~40 degrees, so that might explain the duration.
If that's celcius, you're probably ok. If not, you should have warmed up the engine to get the oil flowing better.
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Old 02-18-2010, 07:39 PM   #83
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Wow, All this talk makes me think the $95 at the local indy MB mechanic to do a oil changes is well worth it.
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Old 02-19-2010, 08:33 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tartan43 View Post
It is manual (hand pump). There is a hose clamp that comes attached to the tube. You simply pinch the tube shut, pump the handle several times until the dial shows 12-15 in.Hg, stick the aluminum adapter into the dipstick tube, and release the clamp. The oil comes up almost instantaneously.
I'll have to try that adapter with my electric (12V) marine pump unit, we'll see if it can make enough suction to do the job from the top.
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Old 02-27-2010, 12:40 PM   #85
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I bought from amazon

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SR7TC/ref=oss_product
and
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...ef=oss_product

I got 8L out from read the level after it stop. I did warm the engine for 2 min and the whole process took about 45 minutes (I also have to use a oil filter cap wrench) NO extra tool and part needed to do this oil change! very very easy!
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Old 04-01-2010, 11:19 AM   #86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by milanlj View Post
Picture “7K oil change” is showing engine temperature around 55°C.
Technically, that's just coolant temp, not engine oil temp.

On this subject, does anyone know if the W204 has an engine oil temp sensor, and if so, is there a way to display its reading? I'm guessing it's only a C63 feature.

Last edited by Pete7874; 04-01-2010 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:17 PM   #87
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2010 c350 4matic oil change

I have a '10 350 matic with 10K km (6K miles) on it and wanted to do an oil change half way to MB stipulated 20K km oil change. I just want to change the oil with intent to have the 20K km oil and filter change at the dealer.
I have always done oil changes the conventional way (by gravity) by removing the drain plug.
On all the 5 cars I have owned (VW, Toyota, 2-Honda and Mazda) I have always changed the engine oil and filter myself.
I removed the C350 4M engine bottom cover and located the oil pan and drain plug located on the left side with the copper gasket clearly sandwiched b/w the oil pan and plug. I was about to drain the oil but hesitated because I saw the front drive shafts go through the oil pan; I also saw bolted at the bottom, a removeable/gasketted access panel very similar to the bottom an auto transmission.
Can somebody please tell me if:
1. the front differential shares its oil with the engine (I doubt it but
who knows?)
2. the drain plug that I saw was for the engine
3. the front differential is a sealed/different casing (i.e. different/separate
compartment within the same engine oil pan/sump casting)
which means the front diff can only be drained through the removal of
the bolted access panel at the very bottom of the oil drain pan assy.
Which also means that the engkine and diff do not share the same oil.
Please let me know as I do not want to inadvertently drain the front diff.
Thank you.
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Old 04-02-2010, 12:33 PM   #88
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oil change

I did my own at 11,000 miles yet im leasing the car...took me 40 minutes, did it the regular way, drain and fill. I got a Mercedes mailer last week for a Service A for $100! At least the prices for service are going down...also said Service B for $150
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Old 04-02-2010, 03:40 PM   #89
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edV44, pics in this link may help (2002 V6 Motor Oil Drain Plug).

http://www.installuniversity.com/mb/...il-change.html

If you wind up siphoning, remember W204 (and maybe 203) 4MATIC's require this adaptor that the dealer shops use:


Last edited by kevink2; 04-02-2010 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 04-02-2010, 09:05 PM   #90
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thanks kevink2,
I might just take the "extractor route" as it is easier and a lot less messy.
I'm still curious though about that front shaft setup per my posting at 12:17PM
Apr. 2, 2010.
I would appreciate an answer from anybody.
Thanks.
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Old 04-04-2010, 05:26 PM   #91
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"1. the front differential shares its oil with the engine (I doubt it but
who knows?)"

no, the 4matic has a front differential with bevel gears, and requires about 1 Quart of stinky hypoid gear oil, not motor oil. Separated cases.
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:26 PM   #92
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2010 C350 4matic Engine Oil Drain Plug

I changed the oil this weekend using the conventional method of opening the drain plug. I have attached pictures showing the location of the drain plug. I used Mobil 1 0W-40 (European Car Formula; MB 229.5 compliant)
To get to the drain plug:
1. Remove the bottom cover of the engine bay by removing 8 bolts (use
8mm socket).
2. Locate the drain plug on the left side of the engine oil pan (refer to
pictures).
3. Open drain plug with 13mm socket to drain the oil.
Note be sure to replace the copper drain plug washer with a new one.
4. Re-install drain plug; do not over-tighten.
Pictures taken looking to rear of vehicle.
I hope this helps.
I abandoned the suction method as I believe this is the best way to fully drain the oil.
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Old 04-11-2010, 10:45 AM   #93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edV44 View Post
3. Open drain plug with 13mm socket to drain the oil.
Note be sure to replace the copper drain plug washer with a new one.
Does a new washer come with a filter or do you have to buy one from the dealer?

Quote:
4. Re-install drain plug; do not over-tighten.
Anybody know the recommended torque for this?
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Old 04-11-2010, 07:36 PM   #94
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The filter does not come with the copper washer. It has to be purchased separately from the dealer. It costs less than a dollar each. If you could find a copper washer of the same size from a different source, that should work.
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Old 04-11-2010, 11:32 PM   #95
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Quote:
Originally Posted by edV44 View Post
I changed the oil this weekend using the conventional method of opening the drain plug. I have attached pictures showing the location of the drain plug. I used Mobil 1 0W-40 (European Car Formula; MB 229.5 compliant)
I abandoned the suction method as I believe this is the best way to fully drain the oil.
Ah, ye of little faith... Why trust the MB engineers with a $50k car, and not with the maintenance recommendations?

I have always had best results with any engineering project by relying solidly upon and trying the recommended and accepted methods, before tossing them aside for my way of doing things.

In this particular case it is just the lack of the proper tool that takes exception on the recommendations in favor of the "I've always done it this way rule". To me, not only do I find that there is no need to get the mitts dirty to perform the task properly by suction, but I shall use the pump for replacing the tranny oil, as well as the differential oil, and to extract brake fluid, gasoline, and a few other chores, so I bought a good one which I adapt for each use.
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Old 04-12-2010, 12:45 PM   #96
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You must admit, there are a lot of benefits in seeing the underside of the car.

To each his own I guess.
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Old 05-10-2010, 11:22 AM   #97
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I can't find the torque value for tightening the oil filter.

I promise to write it down this time if someone would be kind enough to tell me.
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Old 05-10-2010, 02:46 PM   #98
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great info to know, thanks for the DIY
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Old 05-10-2010, 06:25 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by edV44 View Post
You must admit, there are a lot of benefits in seeing the underside of the car.

To each his own I guess.
Sure, that's part of getting to know the car from A through Z, but does not obviate following recommended practices for all chores. Now, if all you can do is oil changes, it may be more practical to get your mechanic to see what he finds underneath. Besides, if you intend to change your transmission fluid, it is better to know what you will find before you do it. But, as you say: To each his own...

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Old 05-12-2010, 03:28 PM   #100
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how is the oil looks?

Quote:
Originally Posted by milanlj View Post
First of all, Happy New Year to everybody, I wish all of us safe and pleasant rides and no dealership visits.
Last weekend I decided to do first oil change on my 08 C300. For all the people interested in doing it yourself or just curious what it takes to do it I’m posting illustrated process.
My car is 6 months old and from the day one I knew that I’m not going to wait 10K miles to do first oil change and I knew that I’ll be doing it myself.
I was planning do oil change at 6-6.5K but Michigan cold weather kept me for doing it until last weekend.
On the first picture (“what’s needed”) you’ll see 9 quarts of Mobil 1- 0W40 motor oil, K&N HP7004 oil filter, small oil extractor and couple of other accessories.
Picture “7K oil change” is showing engine temperature around 55°C.
Picture “Engine cover” shows engine cover removal instruction.
After removing engine cover, remove oil dipstick and insert suction hose until hit the bottom of the oil pan. Other end of the hose insert in draining container.
Remove old oil filter, I was able to do it by hand and start oil extraction.
It took quite a while for electrical oil extractor to pull all of the oil out. I was even thinking what to do if that small pump gives up (it was really hot) right in the middle of process…
While extraction is in the progress, it’s time to change oil filter. Its very simple process: pull old filter straight out, remove two smaller O rings from the bottom of the assembly and one large around the cap and replace them with new ones (filter does come with new rings included in the box).Slide new filter back in to the cap and you are all set. Old (OEM) filter was MANN HU 718/5.
When the oil extraction is complete pull out hose, slide the dipstick back, put the new oil filter in place and start adding engine oil (8.5 quarts). When finished screw filler cap back and return engine cover.
Start the engine, let it run for a few minutes then turn it off and let it rest for 10-15 minutes, then check the engine oil level on the dipstick. Add some, if necessary.

Now couple of comments:
This is the first time that I was doing oil change by using oil extraction method. I decided to try small electrical suction pump (see pictures) that I found on e-bay (but you can buy the same one on Amazon), but I’m not impressed. It took long time and as I said, pump was getting really hot, to the point that I was afraid is it going to last long enough to finish the job. Maybe is nothing, but I just have no confidence in it. I will try to attach larger insertion hose, because original one has ID of about 3mm or 1/8” and see is that helps.
Like most of us, I was asking myself question: “How much oil I’ll be pulling out? Is it going to be some “leftovers”?” and just for the record: I did put all of the old oil in the empty bottles, that I had from the other oil changes, filling the bottles to 28oz…… and… (see the last picture) I end up having 9 (nine) 28oz. bottles and 1(one) 26oz. bottle… so all together 278oz of used motor oil, or 8 quarts and 22 oz. Slightly more then 8.5 recommended, but I was satisfied, because my dipstick was showing oil level on the upper limit.
Seams that dipstick tube is pointing to the lowest oil pan location, by design, but is going to take a few more oil changes before I start draining oil out in the big draining pan, without checking quantity (Am I weird or what?).
On the end everything went well, it took about 1.5 hours to finish everything including cleaning up and putting everything away. Actual work: about 15 minutes.
I’m open for comments and questions.
Regards

PS. I do have more photos. If somebody is interested I will upload them later.
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