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What tool do I need to fill the trans with fluid again for a home diy? Does harbor freight sell it?
You need a M12x1.5mm bolt, that is NOT hardened, so you can drill a 11/32" hole, then tap it with a 1/8" PT thread, then use a 1/8" NPT fitting to a 3/8" barb fitting, to some kind of valve.
By that time, if you don't already have a drill, and all those items, you can just buy the MB tool for $40, buy a 3/8" clear hose and the valve.
Since you have quite a few MB's, then you might as well buy the tool, to keep it simple. Looking up the DIY thread, there is a list of all the required parts to perform this fluid change.
are you sure for heatiing 45° ? doesnt it has an additional oil coller? , cuz i did the same , my full new oil was draing out fully how can i know , if i got an additional oil cooler? help in need
I've put 5k miles since I changed the transmission fluid on my 7g Tronic plus (Blue Fluid) on my 2011 C300 4-Matic. I have driven to Montreal a few times (I'm from Boston) and the car drive's amazing. Transmission is quiet, gear shifts are smooth, plenty of power.
With all the great info I got from this thread I tackled the transmission oil flush/change myself this past weekend and it was a breeze. Thanks to everybody that posted information! Saved me a bunch of money!
I took my 09 C300 4matic for service regarding dead battery and tail light recall. My car just turned 40k miles and service dept brought an issue for tranny service. I listen and they said they will do service for $379 . I asked them if that includes TQ fluid also , he said that they dont do TQ for their reasons which i rejected. Explained quick to them that if they dont do TQ, its job half done and makes no sense to spend money while other fluid is not done. I told service adviser that this is my 23rd car i have owned and i know what i am talking about. within 10 minutes he calls back and agrees to do TQ for extra $80 and then i agreed for service. I travel a lot but i hope i will soon look at the service paper and give you details of service. I feel that lot of times people dont know their cars and whats required when it comes to service and dealers can get away with it. Also i had noticed slight delay in my Reverse gear which they also noticed and had software updated. After driving it , car had much better shift and no delay in any gear. Maybe was little pricey but again with no warranty on my car i think it was smart to do it.
Fairly old thread but bears reviving. To be fair to why Glyn is impressing upon the importance of mb spec oil is that our transmissions are unique to mercedes; designed, built and tested by mercedes. No other vehicles share mercedes transmission from passenger cars. ZF8 copy-paste cookie cutter transmission these days is in 20 models of cars in all brands..
OUR trannys 7g and 7gplus ( iahve a w204 and w212 ) DO the tranny service and use only specified fluids.
I am shocked at one point glyn made, that some of these other fluids will feel smoother which is actually a bad thing. Wow. That gives comfort and insight. I will not use an indy mechanic, and I will make sure to see itemization of TC drain and refill for my cars when I get the transmission fluids done.
EZshift: your right. mbvalencia told me all 2012s are now reco at 70k, but my manual says 40k. However not one change or anything before that... Iffy.
My 212 is at 35k (i can feel itll need it by svc b, even though mbz tells me now 70k miles for a flush..) and my 204 is ~80k However it is automatic. And a 300. So possibly less strain on the tranny anyhow, i CAN hear the whine. Almost like i have a turbocharger. That sounds comparable with peoples complaints of symptons of pre-tranny problems.
Im getting my wallet out for sure. The C is far out of warranty. Gotta cut service intervals in half and go sooner for oil, brake fluid. ps fluid, anything. Mayb tranny cant be pushed too often but man its the most important part of a car.
Last edited by Trancebolt; 02-14-2015 at 04:46 PM.
Service this transmission all you want but mine went at 19000 miles
My 2009 C Class had to have the transmission replaced at 19000 miles and I called MBUSA they did nothing. They said sorry your out of warranty by 1 year, and it cost me $6000. So the point is, all of the discussion on the what is right fluid to use, what difference did it make. This is a bad transmission with a lousy warranty.
Hey guys. A bit of a newbie here, so please forgive me if I'm in the wrong place. We just bought an automatic RWD 2009 C300 back in August with about 48k miles. It now has about 57k miles on it (don't judge). Overall, I am quite impressed with the fine quality and impressive technology. I was pretty annoyed at the expensive replacement of bad struts/mounts at 48k, which the dealer refused to fix/reimburse, even though we pointed it out during the test drive. Long story short, we bought from an independent luxury import dealer who was a bit on the shady side, but I'm over it now because our local MB dealer is amazing. [FYI - the shady dealer is called Auto Showcase in Maryland, USA - stay away!]
So anyway, after reading several posts in this forum, this seemed like the right place to post my questions & concerns. We've been keeping up with the recommended service schedule but I don't see anything in the prior service records to indicate this 40k transmission service was ever done. During our last 'A' service, they did say something about transmission work/maintenance but I don't remember details. Two or three days after that service, the check engine light came on immediately after punching the gas to pass an idiot driver. After reading some of these threads, I have noticed that the shifting can be a bit jumpy at times, especially when taking off with a cold engine. Plus, there is a 1-2 second delay before reverse engages. Additionally, there is a bit of a "whine" during slow turns (almost sounds more like a noisy power steering mechanism??). Lastly, the car does this weird self-braking thing as I slow to a stop, and it just doesn't seem normal (not as prevalent when driving in "Sport Mode" as it is in "Comfort Mode.")
My question is, would the check engine light come on because of a transmission issue? Does anyone think I should go ahead and have this service done to see if it corrects any of these issues? I wish I could do it myself (I prefer DIY), but this looks beyond my caliber. Let me know if you need more details. Thanks in advance!
Hey guys. A bit of a newbie here, so please forgive me if I'm in the wrong place. We just bought an automatic RWD 2009 C300 back in August with about 48k miles. It now has about 57k miles on it (don't judge). Overall, I am quite impressed with the fine quality and impressive technology. I was pretty annoyed at the expensive replacement of bad struts/mounts at 48k, which the dealer refused to fix/reimburse, even though we pointed it out during the test drive. Long story short, we bought from an independent luxury import dealer who was a bit on the shady side, but I'm over it now because our local MB dealer is amazing. [FYI - the shady dealer is called Auto Showcase in Maryland, USA - stay away!]
Bad strut/mount is a driver inflicted issue. Either previous owner or a bad pothole can do that. Brakes, Tires, Any wear physically on the car, and of course driver inflicted damage like motor mounts and stuff, unless corrosion damage can be proven.
So anyway, after reading several posts in this forum, this seemed like the right place to post my questions & concerns. We've been keeping up with the recommended service schedule but I don't see anything in the prior service records to indicate this 40k transmission service was ever done. During our last 'A' service, they did say something about transmission work/maintenance but I don't remember details.
A talented freelance mechanic/trusted mb dealership can tell you by the fluid analysis during a change/flush. Mine is at 80k right now, its likely due again for one. Now that my lady is driving it, she puts 1500 when id put 8000. The oil sits longer, so the service interval goes to days instead of miles. Not always smart to follow the computers messages for servicing... And all sedentary oil is bad oil.
After reading some of these threads, I have noticed that the shifting can be a bit jumpy at times, especially when taking off with a cold engine.
Engine Oil indicator will give you a decent idea of when the engine is ready, but it doesnt show trans oil temperature, as well as temp of the metal itself. Depending on where you live, you may notice this more. Once the needle is off the bottom peg, your good to drive. ID stay under 3500 rpms until it centers in the middle, like 10 mins.
Here is a video that may help you respect the transmission (its a half gen newer, but almost identical )
Plus, there is a 1-2 second delay before reverse engages. Additionally, there is a bit of a "whine" during slow turns (almost sounds more like a noisy power steering mechanism??). Lastly, the car does this weird self-braking thing as I slow to a stop, and it just doesn't seem normal (not as prevalent when driving in "Sport Mode" as it is in "Comfort Mode.")
The Whine for the power steering fluid mechanism is a documented issue with this car (mine does it too). Refil fluid and replace pump when the sound becomes annoying enough (Does not do damage)
AS for the self braking, this car does not like to be shifted from 2 to 1 while moving AT ALL. It will feel like the car jolted hard on the brakes and stopped. The person who owned it last could have badly "trained" the tcu memory with all sorts of confusing factors into the tranny computer. People advocate the reset of the TCU (methods over the forum) but truly, after that is done, be careful not to shift down to one in tiptronic while moving, or it might do that in auto and give you that sensation. ( my e class for some reason shifts down to 1 like butter.... no idea why all w204s do that )
Also, sport mode is way more compliant to gas-brake-gas-brake scenarios like fwy jams or red light city driving. In E sometimes the tranny is gear hunting so much you may feel a clutch sensation. Sport is more likely to behave in those scenarios. It also allows 10% slip of the tires and holds revvs/gears longer.
Does anyone think I should go ahead and have this service done to see if it corrects any of these issues? I wish I could do it myself (I prefer DIY), but this looks beyond my caliber. Let me know if you need more details. Thanks in advance!
I've put 5k miles since I changed the transmission fluid on my 7g Tronic plus (Blue Fluid) on my 2011 C300 4-Matic. I have driven to Montreal a few times (I'm from Boston) and the car drive's amazing. Transmission is quiet, gear shifts are smooth, plenty of power.
Do you know by any chance how many quarts did they use for your transmission service?
A question for Glyn regarding the quote below (or anyone else who may have noticed this and looked into it further)... And yes, I certainly do agree that it is an expensive component which if nt properly maintained, it can cause catastrophic failure and accordingly, it isn't worth what one might otherwise save by not taking care of it...
Originally Posted by Glyn M Ruck
Transmission servicing requirements are very simple. Fluid & filter change every 39K miles or 60K Km's including the torque converter. If there is any doubt service the transmission.
Looking at page 69 of the Maintenance Booklet for 2008 (amongst other models) C-Class, you might notice that unlike other jobs, where it clearly states "every XX,000 miles", when it comes to the Transmission Fluid and filter service, it clearly says "... once at 39,000".
Mind you, it does mention checking "transmission" fluid changes again on the next page (page 70)....
But that isn't until 143,000 miles, which otherwise, it would have been done 1st @ 39,000, followed by a 2nd @ 78,000, a 3rd @ 117,000 and a 4th @ 156,000....
So could that be a misprint in that schedule? What do you think?
Plus, there is a 1-2 second delay before reverse engages.
The delay before reverse gear engages was subject to a TSB that was issued in June of 2009, and was fixed by way of a software update. This alone would make me wonder how long its been since your car made it to any dealership for service.
While I realize most people shy away from going with dealer services, one must keep in mind that only the dealer (and maybe, possibly an Indy who might have the right equipment -mainly a STAR system which most don't have) can take care of TSBs, recalls... etc.
Originally Posted by BenzHubby
Additionally, there is a bit of a "whine" during slow turns (almost sounds more like a noisy power steering mechanism??).
A whining noise when turning the steering wheel is an almost sure sign of a low level power steering fluid. This is a maintenance issue and power steering pump should be checked on a regular basis. If ignored, this could easily be a $800 repair job, if not more (power steering pump alone is $500+). Also, if fluid is in fact low, make sure you only use approved MB fluids and there is a list with required specs somewhere on this forum. (You'll have to do a quick search and it should be an easy find).
The delay before reverse gear engages was subject to a TSB that was issued in June of 2009, and was fixed by way of a software update. This alone would make me wonder how long its been since your car made it to any dealership for service.
While I realize most people shy away from going with dealer services, one must keep in mind that only the dealer (and maybe, possibly an Indy who might have the right equipment -mainly a STAR system which most don't have) can take care of TSBs, recalls... etc.
We have taken it nowhere except for our local MB dealer for regular maintenance and a strut replacement. I didn't make any of these complaints that I mentioned here because I just assumed they would find anything that's wrong during the courtesy 120 point inspection (give or take a few points) that's included with each service. I guess I'll just have to email them the link to this thread...
Originally Posted by IGB
A whining noise when turning the steering wheel is an almost sure sign of a low level power steering fluid. This is a maintenance issue and power steering pump should be checked on a regular basis. If ignored, this could easily be a $800 repair job, if not more (power steering pump alone is $500+). Also, if fluid is in fact low, make sure you only use approved MB fluids and there is a list with required specs somewhere on this forum. (You'll have to do a quick search and it should be an easy find).
The noise isn't unbearable and it's only when I'm turning at low speeds, but let's put it this way; steering my 2005 Ford Explorer is quieter. I guess I just held MB to a higher standard than that. Others are saying it's a common thing, so I'll just check fluid levels and ask the dealership about it, then hopefully be done with it.
Thanks IGB and Trancebolt- you've been very helpful!
We have taken it nowhere except for our local MB dealer for regular maintenance and a strut replacement. I didn't make any of these complaints that I mentioned here because I just assumed they would find anything that's wrong during the courtesy 120 point inspection (give or take a few points) that's included with each service. I guess I'll just have to email them the link to this thread...
Its like a cpu tech(myself) or doctors, if you go see them, (or lawyers too) and either dont know what to say is wrong, or an idea of the general direection to check; or just downright DONT tell them whats wrong, its possible to miss anything.
some problems only occur under a specific scenario... honestly its very hard to find small problems. we drive them 1000s of miles a month and only rarely ever feel anything... Theyve told me "oh please make a list because we can then just check on all those points more thoroughly then we might in a normal exam" so yes, make a list... even a rough idea, with asterisks by the most important or something. They wont snarl at that (they do work on commission but warranty work is warranty work, and thats all they get paid to do; so any extra checks is on you unless you can show these TSBs that mr konigtiger is so kind to present)
The noise isn't unbearable and it's only when I'm turning at low speeds, but let's put it this way; steering my 2005 Ford Explorer is quieter. I guess I just held MB to a higher standard than that. Others are saying it's a common thing, so I'll just check fluid levels and ask the dealership about it, then hopefully be done with it.
!
This is a fair length sedan with a turn radius of 17~ feet, that ford explorer may turn the wheel more quietly but even a mustang shelby steering(ford sedan for the sake of arguement, and mb is kind of the muscle car of europe) doesnt compare to ours when working right. MB Typically has heavier steering feel and stability ("understeer") and this puts stress on the pump. The steering most likely is hydraulic & speed assisted steering, so at lower/zero speeds you hear it whine alot; my c does it too, and im tellin ya power steering fluid and pump on this model are notorious. Hydraulic steering is better than electric for road feel in my opinion, but both can have things go wrong
doesnt affect performance or durability, but does make the action more sluggish and hard, as well as the whine; ,ine started at about 65000 miles
Last edited by Trancebolt; 03-11-2015 at 04:34 PM.
Well I just performed this service in my 2010 c300 4matic sport. The guides and instructions were good, was able to save 600$ (Canada, 850+tax at dealer)
One thing I would note that happened to me is after filling the fluid, I went to turn the car on and it would not start, gave me srs and abs errors on the screen, and told me to service the car. Well after almost having a heart attack I checked the voltage on the car and my battery had died. Problem is when in N you can't take the key out, so all my electronics etc were on while I was working on it. After figuring it out finished the job and am quite happy with it.
Well I just performed this service in my 2010 c300 4matic sport. The guides and instructions were good, was able to save 600$ (Canada, 850+tax at dealer)
One thing I would note that happened to me is after filling the fluid, I went to turn the car on and it would not start, gave me srs and abs errors on the screen, and told me to service the car. Well after almost having a heart attack I checked the voltage on the car and my battery had died. Problem is when in N you can't take the key out, so all my electronics etc were on while I was working on it. After figuring it out finished the job and am quite happy with it.
Huzzah! I am nowhere near brave enough to try and drain the TC, full marks lad!
Priceless information there sir, we should certainly make a large note on the main page here that anyone doing this service for themselves should hook up a trickle charger while working on it;
02-20-2014, 10:26 PM
