Richard2011

I was quoted just under $300 for a trans service by a reputable indie shop. Sounds like a good deal to me. I haven't reached 39K yet. Is there anything I should look out for? It's 9 qt of fluid that should be drained, right?

defcon3

I come from the W212 part of the forum but seem to have issues related to NOT maintaining the 722.9 on time...

I purchased my W212 when it had 62k KM on the dash and roughly around 72k KM I started getting rough gear changes and most notably, the kick/jolt when at a traffic light (gearbox in D, brakes on) or shortly after exiting the highway and still on the ramp...

For those who wish details - thread linked in the first line of my post. TLDR version: my car went in for a regular/scheduled B5 during which dealer "addressed" the issues with the gearbox by charging me for flashing new firmware on the engine+gearbox. This didn't fix things and car went in for a second visit. Albeit free, the "new revision" of the firmware didn't solve things either. Quite to the contrary - I now have rough down and up-shifting across the range.

On the side, car has now developed the nasty habit of sitting idle at ~1,000 RPM regardless of ambient or engine temperature. What makes it worse, when I am to rev the engine, there is a loud thunder noise upon release of the accelerator... Tonight I'll try to upload the two videos I recorded (behind office firewall, cannot do it from here).

I am hoping @Glyn will glance at this message and be able to respond: how do I ask the regular service on my gearbox to be performed explicitly? I read that often valve body replacement and/or control unit solve issues but your approach seems better suited for the job, banking on a qualified person spotting anything requiring replacement during the maintenance...

Tomorrow my beloved E350 is going in for a THIRD visit - this time after contacting MB Switzerland and asking them to get involved.

Funkwagen

Sorry to resurrect an old thread, new here but have a question about this. I picked up my Merc with 74,000km on it, it was apparent that the previous owner did not have the transmission service done at the recommended 60,000km.

I had it done just yesterday. There were no issues with the car at all, transmission still shifted smoothly, no funny noises, jolts, anything. Is it possible anything was damaged by not performing the service when it was required? I've noticed since the service that the car feels like it has a tidbit more power, but that just might be in my head as I'd driven it really carefully (read: intentionally slow acceleration, left in C shift mode) prior to the service.

Glyn M Ruck

Before we go into any detail. What year is your W212. Does it have a 722.9 or 722.9 Plus transmission?

Benz must service the transmission at 60K Km's if 722.9 inclusive of draining the TC. If a service & flash do not cure issues they must interrogate the conductor plate & valve body for faults with a Star & reset all adaptions & clutch lock-up pressures etc. If still not successful they likely need to replace the CP & possibly valve body.

If the transmission is a 722.9 Plus. Benz is still experiencing some software issues.

Moto_Guzzi

My C350 transmission oil replaced twice in 95 000Km, had oil analised and it passed.

defcon3

Thank you for posting - delay was not critical, as during last visit and with Daimler Schweitz watching over their shoulder, the dealership did impeccably. They also confirmed that full oil+filters change was done at 63k and listed per item the process, including 9.5L oil. As you might have guessed already, I have the 7G (car is end 2010).

After their advice to drive the car in Sport for several weeks, the car is now as smooth as it can be. Economy or Sport, both are smooth. Go figure...

Glyn M Ruck

Excellent. They did it right this time.

slk350toronto

bump because im interested in buying a slk buy im not going to if the 7g PLUS tranny has the same problem. dose anyone know if still has a TC plug. I don't know were to post and im scared to buy a car that would have bad work done to it. I may just opt for the 6 speed manual but id really like the v6. sorry if im not suppose to post here

rjz2177

mine just failed at 52,000 miles...has there been a reason what is creating this dreaded whining noise making the failure to occur so early? Realizing this post is few years ago, has the culprit of this problem resolved and which MY has the fix been incorporated in? one last question, dealer is planning on replacing mine with a factory rebuild to save me some dollors as part of a goodwill that i still need to pay $2,000. i'm out of CPO warranty based on time by 6 months while still within the 62,500 miles CPO limits....any advise, TSB, DTB, any recalls for this madness?

dennish

Recently I purchased a '09 C350 from the local MB dealer. Car has 51K on it and was "B" serviced there at 38K with transmission service included. I asked the service manager if they drain the TC. He said that they stopped draining the TC back around 2000 when MB stopped adding the drain plug. He defended this by stating that even now some cars just don't have the drain plug and when they do have a plug it is difficult to access. Also he said that the filter does a great job in capturing particulates. So, bottom line I'm looking to do a complete transmission drain sometime soon for my peace of mind.

global33

More dealer lies and laziness. My indy repair shop quickly found the screw and drained the TC in no time with minimal effort.

rjz2177

so any trick to have this covered by MB being just 6 month out warranty based on time but still within 62,000 CPO mileage limits??? or shall i drop it and get a Hundai - however it is spelled - for 100K mile power train warranty ?????

rjz2177

Just a quick update on my 7G in 2010 GLK 4MATIC. Just got it replaced with an MB Remanufactured unit 204-270-61-00-87 and Torque converter 221-250-18-02-88 last week and MB contributed to the cost as a goodwill. Lesson learned I'll service this Trans. every 30K and hope for the best.


The whining noise gone, drives smooth and shifts nice BUT while parked on N or P and when I slam on the gas to the floor for a second and let go...rpm jumps to about 1700 - 2000 rpm and on its way back to idle half a second later at about 1200 rpm, I feel this snap/thump like someone kicked hard the car with his foot....tried couple time same thing happens...its like something spring-loaded binds when I press hard and abruptly on the gas, and when I let go off the gas pedal, it snaps out going back to its resting position as engine speed is going back to idle around 1200 rpm. Gently pressing on gas and let go while parked everything is nice no issue. I assume they reset the computer/TCM after installing the new one. Any idea what could that be ??? reading about the 7G PLUS they seem to have introduced pendulum damper...is it possible they have it also now in the Remanufactured 7G they just installed and causing this snapping literally feeling and sound like someone kicked the car ???? does anyone else notice this in their cars? or shall I leave it alone for 1000 miles like break-in for the new metal to mesh together and the computer learning? As a side note I hear a very fainted/low rattle noise at idle speed from the new Trans. right above its oil pan and that I never heard before in the old one, but it goes away as engine rpm get up above 1000 rpm. That's what made me slam on the gas to see if it goes away.


Glynn & other experts here: I appreciate your expert advice. I'm literally exhausted with this and thanks in advance with your response.

Carsy

Why would you "slam the gas to the floor " when in park or neutral ? . I see no reason for this except to stuff it all up.

As you say treated gently, all is well.. respect is needed .

rjz2177

the reason I slamed the gas pedal to the floor for a second is this new fainted ringinng noise to see if it rpm dependant. it just revved up to 2,000 rpm before it started to idle back when this thump noise and feel was heard at about 1200 rpm. it is like a spring loaded something snapping back to its resting position, or something binds than slips abruptly making this thumping noise than you could also feel it.

I looked at the engine mounts yesterday, no signs of fluid leaks on or arround them and I don't recall I had this issue in the old transmission before the dealer replaced it. Is it possible the clutch lock-up pressures needs reset, as I can't imagine if a dealer dosen't do that by default after changing a transmission and I know they will tell me of course they did it. I hate to drive it yet on S as quoted above till after the new Trans. break-in period.

Is there a Transmission mounts that they may have not torqued it properly creating this fainted ringing noise & thump noise/feel Or is it just needs to be driven for few weeks and 1000 miles like a break-in period to mesh together? thanks for all your imput.

tekfoc

just bring it back.

rjz2177

Just hate to have too many hands messing with it. Before i take it back, any ideas will be greatly appriciated.

Indications are that this thumping noise may be related to the Lock-Up Clutch Adaptation that the dealer may not have reset/synced properly since they also replaced the Torque Converter. It just happens when parked when engine speed slowing back to idle at about 1200 - 1500 rpm ONLY after an abrupt revving to 2000. No thumping noise if slowly revving to 2000 rpm and letting my foot off the gas paddle.

johnyon123

these dealers do this on purpose... they want cars to break down.

theoilzone

These service sheets (AP00 2-U-1208FI) that are utilized by dealers in the USA state that the service interval (merely a filter change and adding back fluid) is every 70,000 Miles. ATF 134FE lubricated units to be perfectly clear.

There has been various positions taken in regard to service intervals by MBUSA LLC with respect to these transmissions.

My research shows 3 722.9 6th Generation models, a base 722.9 (W7C700), a 4MATCIC 722.9 (W7X700), and a "reinforced" version (W7C1000) I suppose used in AMG and Higher Horsepower models that output more torque than standard consumer power trains.

I have watched the varying recommendations and can state after measuring the factory viscometrics degrade over time with fluid analysis and monitoring particle population counts (according to ISO-4406 cleanliness code standards) and seeing the relatively poor wear causing factory filter utilized that I would state that the following measures must be taken to ensure relatively trouble free operation.

1. Strictly adhere to the 39,000 Mile service intervals if using all factory fluids and filters.

2. If desiring better performance utilize a 100% synthetic automatic transmission fluid (Fluids constructed with PolyAlfaOlefin / Diester Based Fluids- buyers beware in the USA as "synthetic" has been skewed somewhat by Federal Court Cases and vendors that label non chemically constructed fluids - that is to say conventionally refined as synthetic to the low to no information buyer public, not to mention dealers that only follow the service books in fear of warranty funds being with held from them via MBUSA LLC) - to be clear the molecular structure is unmodified from nature). The molecular structure affects how the fluid flows (think fuel economy and fluid intra-fluid frictional characteristics) and transfers heat to the trans casing and pan for heat dissipation.

3. This critical element of heat transfer is what is causing the fluids to degrade rapidly and can be measured in fluid viscometrics easily. You have to understand little to no measurement is utilized by dealers or most MB enthusiasts. Just follow the book....which has some serious flaws to consider.

a. The recommendation(s) seem only to account for mileage. The better specification for owners would be to consider that mileage, time and hours (whichever comes first) on the transmission should all be factored into the maintenance recommendation. If you have owned one of these transmissions as a livery driver in Vegas you will encounter fluid degradation on an accelerated pace and particle accumulation that causes problems (cleanliness levels) in the electronically controlled servo valves that result in shifting and operational decline.

b. Where you operate the transmission. If you live in Las Vegas or Oslo you have an acceleration of fluid degradation than one that operates say in the Middle of the United States or lesser temperature extremes in various countries.

c. How you operate the transmission. Almost all service is severe. You can expect however if you are spending 60% or more in highway driving conditions (to be clear this is more than 45 miles at a trip) then the 39,000 mile fluid drain should suffice irrespective of fluid particle accumulation as wear is less in the unit as speeds increase. Yes, paradoxical agreed, but a measurable fact.

d. Lastly, one should consider a filter that addresses the clutch dust that is allowed to run through these units. Adding this unit in the front of the transmission, a Magnefine fluid filter, will greatly enhance like new fluid filtration and contribute to sustained like new transmission shifting and operation characteristics.
What has been missing from the discussion is the fact that the fluid's cleanliness level is not in accordance with ISO-4406 cleanliness levels for usage in operation where there are servo valves...like a 722.9 for example.
Cleanliness levels of 16/14/11 are essential for proper operation.

Isn't it interesting that it is rather difficult to determine the factory fluid cleanliness levels from the dealer. They are not at fault though, as they are between you the 722.9 user, and the manufacturer Mercedes.

What is clear is that there seems to be no regard for fluid cleanliness in the beginning of the entire process.

One will be surprised to find what level the ISO Cleanliness code is with those beautiful gray and blue labelled bottles one finds at the dealer.

and if you are thinking this applies to the transfer case fluids.....power steering fluids, brake fluids, coolants and engine lubricants. Oops, I forgot greases (which are fluids with a thickener).

I have found many of the fluids dial in around 29/25/20. Servos don;t like this dirty fluid over time, especially in temp extremes.

Is it any wonder folks have encountered shifting and operational issues, even when the vehicle us relatively new?

Here is the link to the information on the magnefine filter. It should be changed every 12,000 miles or during Service A, B events for most owners which is usually 10,000 miles, saving a trip to the dealer or your friendly technician's service center.

My viewpoint is rather simple. Life is short. We should be able to drive in these wonderful cars that allow your self to think while driving, rather hear yourself think.

Addition of this unit s safe insurance to a measurable problem. When they change out the original 722.9 the car changes its allure completely, as it is never the same again. Not to mention the downtime, time hassle etc,

My 2 cents from life experiences, if your unit doesn,t have one on it already.

Here is the hyperlink to the best solution I can find. Works great on power steering units also.

http://www.magnefinefilters.com/Magn...lter-P038M.htm

They cost less than a remanufactured transmission or power steering units and actually addresses an invisible wear issue.

Sorvacci

Completely new to MB, and don't pretend to know too much about engines overall... Bought a CPO 2012 C300 over the summer, just about 30K miles on it. Had the 30K service back then.

Just brought it in for the 40K service at a non-MB mechanic (all my other MB buds say they don't use MB Manhattan because they are way overpriced), and they were able to perform the whole 40K service except for the transmission and brake flushes due to a computer requirement.

Called MB Manhattan for a quote, they said $650 for Transmission flush and $265 for brakes. This seems pretty high, any thoughts? They previously tried to sell me the 40, 50, and 60K services bundled for $1,250, I declined. When I asked how it could be over $900 for services for just the 40K service, they noted that the transmission flush is not included in the 40K service.

Any advice?

handyman762

brakes can be done with an eazybleed set ($20) and Original MB 331.0 brakefluid ($15).. No computer needed.


Only cars with SBC pump (w211) need the computer

Funkwagen

I bled/replaced the brake fluid myself using the same mityvac I use for oil changes and the brake bleeder kit. Went very smoothly, I definitely think $265 is too much for that.

Merserybenze

I would urge caution with getting the tranny oil changed. I had mine done at 40K. 8K later I needed a new tranny - too much of a coincidence for me. My tranny was perfect prior to the oil change (they did the TC at the same time). 23K into the new tranny it runs fine. I don't plan on changing the tranny oil again - I will take my chances once it reaches 40k again -or do it myself (don't trust the stealership).

michail71

I've read through a bit of this but I'm confused if this is talking about the 7 G or 7 G Plus.

stratman1954

Called MB Manhattan for a quote, they said $650 for Transmission flush and $265 for brakes. This seems pretty high, any thoughts? They previously tried to sell me the 40, 50, and 60K services bundled for $1,250, I declined. When I asked how it could be over $900 for services for just the 40K service, they noted that the transmission flush is not included in the 40K service.

Any advice?[/QUOTE]



I just had my 2012 C300 CPO with 50,000 miles serviced at a dealer in northern N.J. Charges were $590 for transmission flush(including torque convertor) and $315 for front brakes (pads only)