Domm

Some pics of my freshly waxed Mercedes with my new Digital SLR Canon t3i camera. Enjoy

Sommy

Looks fantastic. What sort of products/wax did you use?

2012c350

Very nice reflection from the decklid. Looks good.

AkaSigFreak

Missed a spot.
JK
Great Job!

MBRedux

Nice! No curbside bumper damage either.... very impressive indeed man!

Domm

Thanks. I used turtle wax hard shell but didn't expect the results to be as good as thy were. I used meguiars quick wax to maximize the shine once the wax bonded. The wonders a microfiber cloth, wax, and some elbow grease can do.

I plan on trying Collinite 845/885 next

papashango

Do you mind writing up a DIY on how to wax the car properly? Stating all the products exactly used along with the technique and such? It would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

Domm

http://www.detailedimage.com/Ask-a-P...-pearl-part-1/

This is a great reference for proper detailing. If you don't really have deep scratches or just want to mask the swirl marks instead of removing them (if you have any), then I would avoid polishing because it removes the top layer of your clear coat. Washing, clay barring, and a good wax should suffice if you've kept your paint in good condition.

I'll try to write something next time I need to wax my car.

zhighman

This is the first thing I though! Jealous

Domm

I was cleaning my car and noticed the Vinylex and noticed that it said "rubber". A few weeks ago, I was looking for something to dress the exterior rubber trim because they were discoloring/drying. I decided to test it out since it did such an amazing job on the MB-tex and realized it does an even better job on rubber. It does have an oily look initially, but you have to let it sit and then wipe off the excess. I was glad that this worked because of the dual purpose for my interior and exterior (2 uses for the price of 1!!). I have no idea how long it'll last and whether it can handle multiple car washes. My initial concern was that rubber dressing wear off after washing your car and some of them leave oily residue on your windows. I'll keep everyone updated on how well it handles the elements and car washes.

** Update: After one car wash, the product is gone hahaha. It still seems good if you ever have to impress somebody for a week/day. I haven't tried the product MBRedux recommended, but i'd go that route for a longer lasting effect.



Before:





After:

Applied on the right side:



Initial application



After wiping off the excess:

acr2001

Awesome thread!
Very nice job.
303 aerospace protectant also does a nice job on the rubber seals.

Is there a particularly popular wax you guys are using that lasts for a LONG time? I'm still using Klasse, but I know it's probably not the best thing around these days.

LandSeaAir

How did it work on the MBtex, I've been looking to get something for it, my drivers seat looks a little faded.

acr2001

Awesome thread! 303 aerospace protectant also does a nice job on the rubber seals.

Is there a particularly popular wax you guys are using that lasts for a LONG time? I'm still using Klasse, but I know it's probably not the best thing around these days.

Maybe I've answered my own question - http://www.autoinsane.com/2011/09/08...ste-car-waxes/

Domm

It makes a huge difference in terms of color because it gives everything (Seats, dash, door, anything with MB-tex) a dark/wet look. Make sure you have a good amount of time because it can be difficult to maneuver around the interior. So far, its lasted 3 months without having to reapply it.


Theres a thread about what brand of wax other members use:

https://mbworld.org/forums/c-class-w...-best-wax.html

Once I finish the turtle wax (I bought it on sale and now I know why it was on sale), I'll write a review about Collinite

newyorktoLA

For the longest protection, you don't want a wax, you want a really good sealant. But in terms of waxes only, I heard Dodo Juice is pretty good for durability

MBRedux

It looks nice, but it contains the industrial detergent known as Polyethylene Glycol. Very similar to Armor-all which will eventually dry out rubber. I totally recommend 3M *Pure Industrial Silicone Spray* for all rubber trim. It contains NO PEG and no Petroleum Distillates. It's expensive and hard to find, but it will make all rubber look brand new, and last virtually forever if treated twice a year.

Link: http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/...FUcQNAodTmMJ_g

papashango

I noticed a fair bit of swirl marks on my paint the other day. I was looking into getting it properly detailed to get rid of those but have been getting quotes from $300 to $1200 range. So I figured one weekend I am gonna take the time to do it myself as I have the buffer machine at home.

Would you recommend that above linked DIY or is there any other that I can follow?

Thanks!

Domm

Yes, I recommend the above link. It is one of the few that are extremely detailed and include pictures. It sounds like you'll be using a polish for the scratch marks. It would be a good idea to determine how bad deep your swirl marks are and purchase the appropriate polish because different polishes have different levels of abrasion. If you don't religiously maintain your car and can live with masking the swirl marks, waxing your car should cover up some of the swirl marks.

I would Youtube videos on how to properly use a machine buffer because you don't want to burn your paint or ruin the clear coat if you do decide to polish. Meguiar's makes good videos on how to properly use a machine buffer.

4g63pilot

Looks very good. I just paid to get mine polished and waxed yesterday. Cost me $200 but it was well worth it. Looks like a brand new car again. I would like to do it myself but not when its a 100F outside everyday.