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The camera is no longer working. I must have damaged it by wiring it directly from Fuse #71. Not to worry, the remote part still works and I have a CCD camera on order from eBay.
I decided to rewire the camera so that it is only on when the car is in reverse but it takes power from Fuse #71. I used a 12v relay powered from the reverse light cable with the power to the camera/remote coming from Fuse #71 via the "Add-a-Circuit".
The camera is no longer working. I must have damaged it by wiring it directly from Fuse #71. Not to worry, the remote part still works and I have a CCD camera on order from eBay.
I decided to rewire the camera so that it is only on when the car is in reverse but it takes power from Fuse #71. I used a 12v relay powered from the reverse light cable with the power to the camera/remote coming from Fuse #71 via the "Add-a-Circuit".
See photos below:
Do you know if it is a problem with keeping it on constantly or just that fuse #71 is giving it too much power?
Do you know if it is a problem with keeping it on constantly or just that fuse #71 is giving it too much power?
The problem is keeping the CMOS camera powered up all the time you are driving. They do not like it. I recommend that you get a CCD type of camera which can be powered all the time.
I am going to run a CCD camera from Fuse #71 (activated by the reverse light) just to be on the safe side, but I am told it would be fine to wire from the fuse.
I don't like the idea of powering a camera and remote transmitter from a reversing light.
The problem is keeping the CMOS camera powered up all the time you are driving. They do not like it. I recommend that you get a CCD type of camera which can be powered all the time.
I am going to run a CCD camera from Fuse #71 (activated by the reverse light) just to be on the safe side, but I am told it would be fine to wire from the fuse.
I don't like the idea of powering a camera and remote transmitter from a reversing light.
Thanks Rogwp!
I have this one shipping to me and just freaked out after i saw your post about the fuse killing the camera
So i finally got it installed. The whole thing took about 3 hrs to do. The hardest part of removing the vent without scratching anything and the other steps are relatively straightforward. I have it powered using Fuse 71 in the trunk fuse box.
Just a note to everyone, the camera does block some of the license plate light and Azn's LED will not fit.
So i finally got it installed. The whole thing took about 3 hrs to do. The hardest part of removing the vent without scratching anything and the other steps are relatively straightforward. I have it powered using Fuse 71 in the trunk fuse box....
EDIT: Just an FYI, I got the wired version because I didnt know where to get power in the front.
That's great news. My CMOS camera was really good for about a week when powered directly from fuse #71 then it went black. Since installing the relay it works again, but only for a short while, maybe 5 or 6 times a day, then it needs to rest. I was hoping your CCD camera would work well as I have one coming.
Could you let us know in say a weeks' time that everything is still fine? Your reference lines on the screen are different from mine, did you ativate the lines within COMAND or are these the lines generated by the camera?
For others reading this thread; if you want to use a wireless transmitter instead of the cable then the power for the front wireless receiver comes from inside the glove box.
Last edited by Rogwp; 02-17-2013 at 02:25 PM.
Reason: another question
That's great news. My CMOS camera was really good for about a week when powered directly from fuse #71 then it went black. Since installing the relay it works again, but only for a short while, maybe 5 or 6 times a day, then it needs to rest. I was hoping your CCD camera would work well as I have one coming.
Could you let us know in say a weeks' time that everything is still fine? Your reference lines on the screen are different from mine, did you ativate the lines within COMAND or are these the lines generated by the camera?
For others reading this thread; if you want to use a wireless transmitter instead of the cable then the power for the front wireless receiver comes from inside the glove box.
sure...i'll let you know in a week or so...i actually ask a member on benzworld who got the exact same one and he said its been working perfectly fine powered from fuse 71 for over a year now. so fingers crossed....
The lines are actually from the camera itself, i dont think theres a way to turn them off (even though i dont think the lines look that great) but they are extremely accurate
For others reading this thread; if you want to use a wireless transmitter instead of the cable then the power for the front wireless receiver comes from inside the glove box.
Did you confirm Fuse#71 goes live only when the ignition is On? +1 on the relay. Although, a 1 Amp miniature relay is sufficient to do the job. But aren't you supposed to install a 1 Amp diode across the Coil on this application?
How about the power to the Receiver unit, is it always ON?
Did you confirm Fuse#71 goes live only when the ignition is On? +1 on the relay. Although, a 1 Amp miniature relay is sufficient to do the job. But aren't you supposed to install a 1 Amp diode across the Coil on this application?
How about the power to the Receiver unit, is it always ON?
Last question first; that camera has the same spec as the one I have on order so it will fit and work because you have the same license plate lights. You may have to re-route the cable from the camera to the outside of the bulb holder because the bulb will not fit if there is a cable in the way. The rear part of the camera holder has 4 small screws holding it together.
You probably do not need a relay with this camera (I had a bad experience with a CMOS camera, and my set up now means that the camera and transmitter are only on in reverse gear but have sufficient power). I bought an automotive relay and this was the smallest they had. Works without additional diodes, it's a simple switching to reduce the time that the camera is live.
Fuse 71 is only live when the ignition is on. Check your wiring diagram to make sure it's the fuse for the rear cigar lighter on your model.
The receiver in the glove box is always on with the ignition.
Last question first; that camera has the same spec as the one I have on order so it will fit and work because you have the same license plate lights. You may have to re-route the cable from the camera to the outside of the bulb holder because the bulb will not fit if there is a cable in the way. The rear part of the camera holder has 4 small screws holding it together.
Thank you but this is my 1st Merc. So please excuse my ignorance. Do all entry level C series comes with LED License Plate Light? My 2013 C250 have LED and I'm tempting to pull the trigger getting the CCD.
Thank you but this is my 1st Merc. So please excuse my ignorance. Do all entry level C series comes with LED License Plate Light? My 2013 C250 have LED and I'm tempting to pull the trigger getting the CCD.
Sorry I do not know if it will fit your 2013 lights.
You could try and see if your dealer has a 2013 lamp that you can compare to a 2008-2011 one. If the casing is the same, then that camera will fit. There are other versions of the Sony CCD camera that come with a small metal bracket, but you will need to drill 2 small holes in the trim, one for the cable and one for a fixing bolt/screw.
So its been a week since i've installed it and it's working perfectly fine...no black screen, comes on when it's suppose to....
Thanks for that. I have installed the same camera 2 days ago and it works like yours. I thought I had a problem with the CMOS camera because of originally using power from fuse #71, but the new one didn't work using the wireless system (although both units lit up when turned on). I finally installed the long cable from camera to my glove box to bi-pass the wireless system and it worked. I have ordered the FAKRA cable so that I can finish the job properly.
To anyone else interested in this wireless system - probably better, and cheaper to just use the cables and get a CCD camera
Thanks for that. I have installed the same camera 2 days ago and it works like yours. I thought I had a problem with the CMOS camera because of originally using power from fuse #71, but the new one didn't work using the wireless system (although both units lit up when turned on). I finally installed the long cable from camera to my glove box to bi-pass the wireless system and it worked. I have ordered the FAKRA cable so that I can finish the job properly.
To anyone else interested in this wireless system - probably better, and cheaper to just use the cables and get a CCD camera
Did you have the same guide lines as the one i got?
Did you have the same guide lines as the one i got?
Yes they are the same. I also activated the lines in COMAND. I like the long blue lines which lead back from the car. Very useful when aiming at the gap in my hedge that I have to reverse through.
How did you remove the vents above the HU? Also, did you reconnect the existing video cable to the male end of the FAKRA cable at the HU?
Yes they are the same. I also activated the lines in COMAND. I like the long blue lines which lead back from the car. Very useful when aiming at the gap in my hedge that I have to reverse through.
How did you remove the vents above the HU? Also, did you reconnect the existing video cable to the male end of the FAKRA cable at the HU?
I used a butter knife and carefully pry it out from the side. There should be a side with a bigger gap and the trick i found is not have the butter knife inserted too deep.
I noticed that you have a jack in your glovebox which i believe is the multimedia video interface which i dont have in my car, so i'm not 100% sure how it'll work for you.
The way i have it plug in is as follows:
Green plug from HU -> FAKRA to RCA cable -> RCA cable from the camera
THANK YOU FOR POSTING HERE THE LINK TO GET THE FAKRA CABLE I HAD BEEN LOOKING FOR IT ON THE WEB FOR MORE THEN 1 HR. CAN`T WAIT TO INSTALL THE REARVIEW CAMERA !
Originally Posted by gwai_jai
So i finally got it installed. The whole thing took about 3 hrs to do. The hardest part of removing the vent without scratching anything and the other steps are relatively straightforward. I have it powered using Fuse 71 in the trunk fuse box.
Just a note to everyone, the camera does block some of the license plate light and Azn's LED will not fit.
I have build today wireles rearview camera on my w204 facelift model.
I got problems like:
it flickers.
Black And white
What Can I do or set to fix it?
My video/dvd settings are PAL
Video aux is off
On THE second image Can you SER that I put the farka on the singel green.
Because it fits there verry good, but I din't get screen.
It was difficult To put it near THE brown one, but I do it.
Flickering screen=normally attributed to tapping into the reverse light. Don't use reverse light wiring for power source. Use a "add a fuse". See image.
Fakra connection=It appears from your picture you're adding the fakra cable to the wrong video in connection (you have it in the night vision input). To use the reverse camera option I used the green fakra connection closest to the brown fakra connection. See image.
Add a fuse to #71
Command ntg4.5 inputs image I found on other threads. Connect reverse camera to #5
Add a fuse. Make sure you add two fuses in this to power your cigarette lighter and the camera.
Relay connection, reverse light switches only the electric from fuse 71 to the camera.
I use a RED fuse (10a) I think is enough ?
For sigaret I use THE blue (orginal)
The flickering cause by my farka cable ?
Can you tell me where you buy youre farka cable?
My fakra aux in reverse connection is in the same green connector like you.
Relay connection, reverse light switches only the electric from fuse 71 to the camera.
I use a RED fuse (10a) I think is enough ?
For sigaret I use THE blue (orginal)
The flickering cause by my farka cable ?
Can you tell me where you buy youre farka cable?
My fakra aux in reverse connection is in the same green connector like you.
Why I got a black white screen?
If I understand you correct you're using the reverse light to "switch" the camera power to on. If that is the case, it'll cause flickering. I set my camera power to always be on regardless if my car is in reverse or not by using #71 and not use or require a switch . The power consumption is so low that it shouldn't be an issue. That's the only thing I can think of about the flickering.
To test out why you have a black and white screen.... Here's what I did. I plugged in my old Nintendo using an RCA to test the color/quality of the screen. If its in color then It may be your camera itself having issues. If it also comes in black and white then it may be the fakra cable you are using.
I also am using the SRVC option under the engineering menu. Another thought. Maybe it's because your video settings are PAL and you purchased an NTSC camera? I'm not an expert at that but just a thought.
Plugged in my old Nintendo to test screen prior to finalizing everything.
Last edited by lemonstand; 04-11-2015 at 10:11 PM.
02-09-2013, 04:01 PM
2nd update
)
. Since installing the relay it works again, but only for a short while, maybe 5 or 6 times a day, then it needs to rest. I was hoping your CCD camera would work well as I have one coming.
