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Hope you guys/gals can help me out with this. I just took a look at my oil dipstick today and discovered it was was loaded with what appears to be dirt and/or sludge.
I'm no expert, so I'm hoping to get some advice on what it could be.
The car is a 2013 C250 with 44,800 miles. Service B (40,000 miles) completed at my local dealer. Service A (30,000 miles) completed at the same dealer, and the prior services were performed at my local indy shop...just for a little background.
Picture upon first removing dipstick:
After cleaning it off, I inserted back in and this was what came out:
After cleaning it off again, I inserted back in and this was what came out:
Decided to open up the oil fill cap, and this is what it looks like:
That happened to me at about 35k miles. I still don't know what caused that as I had changed the oil not too long prior to seeing it (~4k miles before). Out of precaution, I changed the oil as soon as I saw that and haven't seen any problems in since .
This can be caused by lots of short trips not allowing the oil in the sump to warm up long enough to evaporate the condensed water vapour that can collect especially during winter.
Hopefully it is not a cracked head.
Have you noticed whether the oil level has risen & the coolant level fallen?
Thinking positively what I would do if it were my car would be after a long run to change the oil again & monitor.
Your mechanic should also check whether your sump ventilation system is operating as it should.ie venting the water vapour .
I wondered whether the indi was using the correct specified MB oil?
Carsy,
I will have to check on the coolant level, as you suggested.
What you describe may in fact be what has occurred, though I do NOT take frequent short trips. I put a lot of miles on this car each year, due to the long highway trips I take to work.
What I did notice about the dipstick is that it looked rusty when I took it out. Would this be a indication that your theory about water/condensation is correct?
Glyn,
Yes, the matter is hard to the touch and feels like its dirt/sand. I just went out to my car to verify. Also, I checked my coolant level and its fine.
W204 C200, BMW E30 M3, 1980Gt Mini, Toyota Corona, KTM 200 EXC.
Hi,
I agree with post #4 lots of short trips engine oil not up to temp and condensation in the sump and engine not hot enough to completely evaporate moisture.
Just out of curiosity did you get any oil on the stick when you dipped it?
Possibly a trip to the dealers and ask for the oil and filter to be changed again and clean the dipstick tube with a small bottle brush.
I'm going to the dealer today to have a foreman take a look at the oil issue.
I will provide an update once I get a clear answer.
Did you ever figure out what the issue was? My '12 C250 has -what I believe to be- the same issue.
To me it looks like small clumps of dirt, but I've found less compared to your picture. I'm inclined to think it is a dirty dip-stick tube because the more I jam it back in and recheck, I find less and less particles.
I recently had the car serviced at MB in Toronto. Upon showing the service adviser he said it wasn't an issue. I'll keep a eye on the dipstick.
Apologies for the ridiculously late reply. After changing the oil numerous times, and inspecting oil samples from different areas of the engine, the dealer found that the dipstick tube was to blame.
The dipstick tube had somehow corroded inside, so when the dipstick was placed into the tube, it would pick up the nasty stuff seen in the above referenced pictures as it traveled.
They have no idea what caused the tube to corrode inside, but we checked the oil about 500~miles after the new tube was installed and the dipstick came out perfectly clean.
Only time will tell if the tube will corrode again. So far so good - I have 60,000 miles on this 2013 C250 now and its still running strong.
My 2012 C250 also has dirt with the dipstick. apparently the top part of the dipstick is rusted as well. it gets less after wiping the dipstick and inserting it back a few times. the tube must have rust spots. i think it's a design issue.
I had a similar issue with my 2012 c250. Although my dipstick was not that dirty, it had a similar dirt texture as yours. I found that the dipstick O-RING was bad, more specifically it was not creating a tight seal to the dipstick tube, almost like the o ring was too small.
I ended up replacing the dipstick and dipstick tube. No dirt on the dipstick since.
I had a similar issue with my 2012 c250. Although my dipstick was not that dirty, it had a similar dirt texture as yours. I found that the dipstick O-RING was bad, more specifically it was not creating a tight seal to the dipstick tube, almost like the o ring was too small.
I ended up replacing the dipstick and dipstick tube. No dirt on the dipstick since.
When changing your oil, the replacement filter will come with various o-ring sizes. Use one of the left over O-rings as a new dip stick seal.
This is a common problem on the 1.8 liter turbocharged engine . The oil dipstick tube runs fairly close to #4 cylinder exhaust manifold just aft of the turbo unit which cokes engine oil vapors , including some of the organic additives in the oil onto the inside diameter of the tube especially in the region just below the upper tube mounting flange . Deposits also form in that region on the dipstick wire as well . The coloration is from primary decomposition of a few of the oils' organic additives . Withdrawing the wire dipstick and inserting it also dislodges some of the deposit from the inner wall of the dipstick tube onto the plastic dipstick end. Scrubbing the inside diameter with a copper bore brush before oil and filter change will remove the deposit however it will re-occur fairly rapidly . Thermal shielding added to the rigid pipe prevents hardening of the deposit and most deposit formation . DEI sell 1/2 inner diameter woven basalt fiber tubing that expands to 2 inches then pulls tight . Its called Protect-A-Sleeve sells for $25 and comes with heat shrinkable sleeves for ends . Cut it about about 3 inches longer than needed , slip over dismounted flange and all the way to the lower end of the dipstick tube then pull tight at top , trim off excess and apply heat shrink sleeve . Instead of sleeve at bottom use a metal zip tie . Tip : Duct tape a piece of freezer grade food baggie over dismounted flange before sliding Protect-A-Sleeve over it to avoid deformation of the weave . Push top end of sleeve down past flange , remove tape/baggie piece then gently push/pull back up .
I'm inclined to think it is a dirty dip-stick tube because the more I jam it back in and recheck, I find less and less particles.
I'm leaning towards this also. If not this forum, possibly on a Facebook group, someone recently had a random thump/knock. It ended-up being the dipstick having backed-out far enough to be hitting the firewall.
Now, that being said, if the dipstick is backing out that far, attention needs to be given to the PCV and if it is allowing crankcase pressures to build.
If it was my car, I'd dump a bit of Seafoam down the dipstick tube.. do an oil and filter change... drive it for a few days.. change & inspect the filter... drive it a few days... change the oil & filter.
Last edited by karlt10; 12-28-2019 at 07:39 PM.
Reason: Rethought things
04-18-2015, 03:51 PM
Dirt and/or Sludge on Oil Dipstick; 2013 C250
