SilverBulletAMG

I got a wild hair up my butt and decided to try something new. Not sure if anyone has done anything like this yet, or if it's any better than stock but I was bored.
Initially I took out the stock silencers/baffles in the front of the intake box. That left a big gap and wouldn't seal then. I had to go to O'Reiley's for a few other things anyway and found some 3" flex tubing with 2 adapters in the kit. Whole kit was $19.95.
Basically I took out the box portion where the baffles went and removed that entire section. The I cut off the end that goes at the very front of the intake and plugs into where the baffle box thing was. So now it connects to the stock front end and goes straight into the 3" tubing and runs direct into the intake box.
My thought (could be wrong) is it's not only larger in diameter, but should flow more air less restricted. Although it still has the same choke point at the front of the intake filter box since it's not a perfect circle. I had to make the circle fit a square peg so to speak. I used 3M weather stripping sealer to seal it all up. Dries fast, has a very strong bond, comes off easily if need be and remains flexible.
In the end it looks fairly "factory" and if nothing else gives more intake/SC noise, which I like. Is it good for any hp/tq gains? Your guess is as good as mine, but I would like to think it has "some" gain.
Here are a few pics from along the way and the final product. Yes I know under the hood is filthy. The weather has been crap here lately. Those looking closely will notice the leaf in my box as well in the close up. It has since been removed.

jturkel

hmm. interesting. on my old intake setup, i had removed the baffles and had that gap that wouldnt seal. this is an interesting idea though. i would imagine it may flow better. but i think the most air you can force in is that at the restriction point. which i think for you right now are your airboxes and possibly your splitter, though i am undecided about the code3 intake setup, which is why i say possibly. At higher speeds, i think the stock splitter even with code3 becomes restriction because so much air is going into the intake from the ram air setup.

CLKCLK

It looks like you bought that horse from Kragen for $19? Go to Homedepot and buy a better one for couple dollars

SilverBulletAMG

LOL The flex tube was $0.25....the rubber fittings in the kit must have been the big $$ parts.
Nah, it's better than it looks in the pictures. It's better than the stock parts were at least. Better in that it's actually stronger and more flexible/bendable. It's not a dryer hose, which I know it looks like.haha

wawy

Good job! I'm going to try the CLK350 tubes to my airbox. I just wish the 2 air inlets/scoops above the rad were a bit larger..

1qikctr

its looks decent. Good job cheap HP.

60n5pt1

Looks good. It just might work to 'gain' some power.
Have you checked the heat range of this material?
Engine compartment temperature changes drastically from cold to hot and then cold, etc.

SilverBulletAMG

I have not, but I've been researching different heat wraps and will be covering it all, to include the bottom of the intake boxs. After a few quick trips I popped the hood to see how everything looked and the intake is soaking up a ton of heat. I'm just trying to figure out how I want to wrap them. It has to work first and foremost, but I also don't want it to look like something that's getting ready for a lunar landing.

FrankW

i had that problem too when the tab was broken on the 32 airbox where the baffle is. simple solution was zip-tie.

ChicagoX

The ribs in the intake may prevent laminar airflow, effectively reducing the air mass flowing through it.

SilverBulletAMG

I had thought about that as well causing turbulence. I pushed the tubing together as much as possible to prevent that. I still think it would flow better than stock.

hooleyboy

this tube could effectively only make the air flow size slightly smaller than the lowest point of the corrugated ribs. It is due to air that gets stuck at the at the higher peaks of the corrugated ribs. The trapped air starts to create pressure only allowing in a limited amount.

I would go with some silicone hose. You can yet it in all sorts of sizes, bends, colors etc... The stuff is cheap enough with some searching.

c32used

Best way to test is to dyno with original setup then this setup then track it the same order...while you may have advantage in creating HP you may suffer getting enough pressure of air at higher RPM range...smooth non-ribbed piping may fair better for both HP and actual driving performance my friend. You can always heat wrap the materials you use...there are stuff you can buy to wrap it against the heat.

Nice idea though If I had the original C32 airboxes I may have tried something similar.

rockjock

Nice set up-I agree with Hooley boy-and about the temps (I've melted many a things in there before...). It looks like the RV tubing I picked up for a brake duct cooling kit for the C55 I'm working on....damn wash fluid resovoir.....hello trunk
if it makes more noise-it makes it faster....think cards in the spokes

SilverBulletAMG

EXACTLY!haha

A.O.K.

Thanks for the tutorial! I was washing my car today when I decided to open up my hood. found out I had bad piping and remembered this post and decided to give it a whirl. So far works great, Love the little extra SC sound it gave me.

jackg

Having read this thread, I pulled the intake baffles apart and wound up using 3 inch ID silicon hose( I went with black "Aeroflow" hose). The hose deforms enough to fit over the intake scoop accordion hose with a little careful twisting onto it ( do this end first)and the back end fits into the air box intakes and butts up to the stop without gaps. I smeared a little silicone auto sealant around the inside lip of the air box intake join to make sure there was no air gap and to hold it in. I made the hoses 200 mm ( actual was 210mm on the ac comp side and 190mm on the alternator side). This without cutting any std parts so it can all be put back to std but i'll try it for reliability first then cut at the scoop hose ends and fit longer sil hoses. You could say 240mm if you want to cut the intake accordion Hoses at the intake scoops and join on there for a clean look. The silicon hose will withstand plenty of heat and of course has a smooth inner surface. No need for any hose clamps, it all holds itself in as an "interference fit".
All done inside a half hour once youve got the hose. I'll try this out tomorrow and follow up.

swedepat

I´ve got this model, but black.