Aftermarket Amp wiring

[Wilsophia]

Dear all, I m from HongKong so my C32 is a RHS steer. My c32 was equipped with a JVC HU from the ex-owner but the Bose Amp in the trunk was deleted. Those Bose door panel speakers were directly connect to the JVC but the Bose sub at the rear deck was disconnected. I would like to wake up the Bose sub and I already got a 350W aftermarket Amp on my hand. So it need a direct power supply from the battery but I really have now idea how I can run through the firewall. I have search some old threads that there are some hole for 4gauge size wire at the firewall which can be used but I cannot locate it in my C32. I would believe it is at the back side of the gloves box but no can search there. Anyone here have more information about the holes ? Or any other alternative to solve ? Thanks Wilson

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[91RS]

Is the battery on the right or left side of the engine bay?

If the rest of the system is already aftermarket, I would recommend getting an aftermarket sub instead of using the Bose sub. There are shallow mount subs that would probably fit and sound better.

[Wilsophia]

Thanks for reply RS91,
for my RHS steer C32, the battery was places at LHS of the engine bay.

Yes, understand the Bose sub is not so powerful. But I would like to mod it step by step. Will replace an aftermarket sub later if the Bose is not good

[91RS]

Then that passthough should also be on the left side. Take the hush panel from under the dash out and you should be able to see it.

[Wilsophia]

Yes. 91RS,

I reach it finally when i remove the bottom panel cover under the glove box and see inside. But....

My power cord is too think and cannot go into those holes, it seems that those "hole plugs" can be removed but it is really hard to remove. I tried use pliers and screw drive to do but still stuck !

Any recommendation to proceed ?

Thanks

[loudandheard]

Check out this thread, should help. I was able to fit two 4 gauge wires, so it's possible.

Moron's guide to aftermarket head unit installation

[Wilsophia]

Thanks for info, great to me !

But I've tried very tough but still cannot remove those plugs......I will try it again tomorrow

Thanks anyway

[michael kuzni]

if you can't get it, why not just drill another hole and use gromets?

[91RS]

I got 4 gauge through mine using Vasoline. The plastic plugs are about an inch long if I remember correctly, so you will have to pull on them a bit to get one out. The hole is actually sized for 8 gauge, so 4 gauge isn't going to go through without some help.

[tw2]

I just shoved a screw driver through from inside the car and pushed the plug out into the engine bay. It was fairly easy. The hard part was getting the wire through without removing the battery.

[Wilsophia]

Thanks

So, the plug was pushed and dropped inside the engine bay ? Can it be found ?

So, i dun mind to remove the battery to get the wire, just worry if there is any elect. failure if the battery disconnected ?

Thanks

[tw2]

Originally Posted by Wilsophia

Thanks

So, the plug was pushed and dropped inside the engine bay ? Can it be found ?

So, i dun mind to remove the battery to get the wire, just worry if there is any elect. failure if the battery disconnected ?

Thanks

Yes. It can be found. I did not bother trying to retrieve mine. I found it difficult to remove the battery so I did all this with it in. There is no problem disconnecting the battery (negative first) and then removing it, you will find the job much easier.

[Wilsophia]

Thanks, will try

[MTLdude]

You're supposed to have a solid 12V source in the trunck man! Remove the paneling in the trunk and you will see the wires. No need to run the wire from the front!

[tw2]

Originally Posted by MTLdude

You're supposed to have a solid 12V source in the trunck man! Remove the paneling in the trunk and you will see the wires. No need to run the wire from the front!

This is true but not many people are willing to do this. Running high power accessories on OEM circuits might not necessarily lead to failures but it is risky.

[Wilsophia]

Yes, as the rear Sam is costy, and I dun want to add up any high power loading to it.

Directly get the power from the battery is much safer

[MTLdude]

So you are running a 4 ga wire to wake up the 8" bose sub at the rear deck? That's overkill and that sub is crappy. I just removed mine to install two 6x9 in the rear deck and keep running my 12" sub and 340 watt amp hooked on the rear 12V source, plus my trailer lights. I think the power is sufficent enough specially if the Bose amp is out. From factory the Bose amp is sending a max of 100 watts to that sub. Looks like you're going to roast that sub in the first week!!!

[doom239]

So where is everyone getting there 12v source from in the trunk?

[MTLdude]

For me it's on the left side. You need to remove the paneling where the shock mount is.

[Wilsophia]

No worry, if the Bose sub was killed, I will remove it and change to a 10 or 12 sub, haha