help me 1,4 mille time

[super-amg]

i buy a c32 amg recently , and i run in 1.4 mille , my best time was 14.4 60ft 2.399 , and reaction 0.845 , help me with that , because i read in this wweb site and gragtimes , that this car can run 13.8 13.9 , what i have to check first_? thnaks

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[biturbowagon]

Get your 60 ft time down. Spinning off line= bad!
Don't worry bout the reaction time. That doesn't mean anything. Gentle on throttle at start, roll out a bit, then floor it!

[super-amg]

Originally Posted by biturbowagon

Get your 60 ft time down. Spinning off line= bad!
Don't worry bout the reaction time. That doesn't mean anything. Gentle on throttle at start, roll out a bit, then floor it!

97.60 mph ; i worry the car have a problem with something for run this time , you think is fine , only my problem it the 60 ft?

i going to buy a kyn filtter , 2dary cats delete and run again for see

[biturbowagon]

Should be trapping higher than that.

[Lenin]

What were the conditions? Temps and Altitude?

[super-amg]

Originally Posted by Lenin

What were the conditions? Temps and Altitude?

the altitud i dont know , but the track it front the ocean , and the temp 23 celcius , i just want run 13.9 stock i m very disapoint

[biturbowagon]

Try the throttle reset trick. Search ecu reset

[super-amg]

Originally Posted by biturbowagon

Try the throttle reset trick. Search ecu reset

hoow i can do that

[biturbowagon]

Search ecu reset on here. I would link but too lazy.

[super-amg]

in this pic i show in the morning when i star the car have a noise this part , if somebody can say me what it , only in the morniing a noise

[super-amg]

today i visit the dyno , this its my number , the car it 100% stock , its good ???}

[michael kuzni]

what country are you in?

[super-amg]

Originally Posted by michael kuzni

what country are you in?

dominican republic why?

[loudandheard]

You're hp looks to be very low, you should be at around 260hp-280hp at least. I think you may need to change your intercooler pump. This was my first dyno and I was around 270hp, only had an sl55 splitter and dirty k&n filters.

[super-amg]

Wow i knew it my car have something wrong , i think buy a johson 30m intercooler pump , but i sure that my Intercoler pump fail , how i can know

[loudandheard]

Originally Posted by super-amg

Wow i knew it my car have something wrong , i think buy a johson 30m intercooler pump , but i sure that my Intercoler pump fail , how i can know

You should be able to hear the pump running on the passenger side after you turn off your car. If your car has the original intercooler pump, the brushes could be worn out. That would be the only thing I can think of that would rob our cars of that much hp.

[super-amg]

Originally Posted by loudandheard

You should be able to hear the pump running on the passenger side after you turn off your car. If your car has the original intercooler pump, the brushes could be worn out. That would be the only thing I can think of that would rob our cars of that much hp.

i turn offf the car 2 times , and dont hear nothing , the pump its located near the pic i show in the top , right? all quiet

[loudandheard]

Originally Posted by super-amg

i turn offf the car 2 times , and dont hear nothing , the pump its located near the pic i show in the top , right? all quiet

It will only stay on for a few seconds after you turn off your car, you should be able to slightly hear it inside the car. The sounds should come from the front passenger tire. Maybe have someone turn off the car while you stand by the front passenger side tire. Or it might be dead.

[super-amg]

Originally Posted by loudandheard

It will only stay on for a few seconds after you turn off your car, you should be able to slightly hear it inside the car. The sounds should come from the front passenger tire. Maybe have someone turn off the car while you stand by the front passenger side tire. Or it might be dead.

i tray again , and not hear nothing , for me that not work , i going to buy a new one , jhonson in ebay , its complicated intal it ? dificult

[loudandheard]

I'm about to do the job on my car as well. I used the search, but came up with nada. I did find it in the sticky above, but there are no pics of how to do the job. I'm going to do a photo diy, when I do it. Hopefully it will make it a bit simpler. The job is really not that difficult and shouldn't take you more than a couple of hours, may be a good time to do a coolant flush as well. Make sure to bleed the system afterwards, but I heard that it may be self bleeding. I bought a new bosch pump and it's suppose to be the updated version. So I'm hoping it last longer than 50k miles, plus it's suppose to flow better than the johnson, who knows.

Originally Posted by Vomit

So, 1FASTC32 came up with the idea that the C32 intercooler pump (which routinely fails at 40-50k miles, or just after your warranty expires, to the tune of $600.00 in parts) is the same as the Ford Lightning pump which is currently available on eBay for $100.00 or so. I received mine today, and installed it this evening. Here is the skinny:

Pump is $89.00 shipped from Diversified Products (734) 459-0130.

Pump is the same Bosch unit used on the C32, with the following two exceptions: The wiring plug is different, and the water outlet and inlet tubes are slightly smaller on the replacement pump. Both of these issues are easily resolved, as described in the following installation steps:

1. Jack up front passenger side wheel, and remove.
2. Remove the roughly 1' x 1' plastic piece that is towards the front of the car in the passenger-side front wheel-well. This entails removing three 10mm bolts in the wheel well, one plastic plug in the wheel well, and two or three plastic plugs under the passenger side of the front bumper. Remove the plastic piece completely (do not try to just bend it to access the I/C pump).
3. You will now be able to see the P.O.S. intercooler pump. It is mounted to the car with a couple of nuts on studs below, and a small bolt in the same region. It has an inlet and an outlet hose, with those stupid spring-loaded hose clamps that are impossible to remove. Try pliers and a flat screwdriver.
4. Once you remove the hoses and the mounting bolts (and the 12v plug), you will now be able to remove the pump and mounting bracket.
5. Remove the metal mounting bracket and rubber sleeve from the old pump (you may need to pry between the sleeve and the pump to loosen the rubber sleeve from the metal) and save them.
6. Now you need to swap the plastic housing piece with the inlet and outlet tubes from the old pump to the new pump, as the new pump has tubes which are slightly smaller (the idea is to move the old inlet/outlet tube piece to the new pump). Unscrew the six star screws holding the outlet and inlet tube housing on the old pump. Remove the plastic piece with the inlet/outlet tubes. Now remove the similar piece from the new pump (gold Phillips screws). Take care, as those gold Phillips screws strip very easily. Now, carefully place the inlet/outlet tube piece from the old pump onto the new pump, taking care to assure that the orange o-ring is properly positioned. Secure the old inlet/outlet housing with the gold Phillips screws.
6. Using two appropriately-sized hose clamps (I tossed those spring-loaded things, and used traditional "screw-adjust" clamps), re-connect the plumbing to the new pump. Tighten the clamps.
7. Use the old mounting hardware (rubber sleeve and metal bracket) and mount the pump just like the old one.
8. Now for the electrical. You will note that the C32 electrical plug to the old pump is completely non-usable with the new pump. The new pump has small spades protruding, where the C32 plug is for very small posts. I cut the plug off of the existing C32 wiring coming to the pump, stripped a 1/4" piece of wire, and used two small female spade connectors, which slid right over the male spades coming out of the pump. I then slathered on some West Marine Liquid Electrical Tape to waterproof the whole thing. Not the prettiest solution, but it works.
9. Refill your liquid source for the pump, and voila. Check (before replacing plastic cover and wheel) by starting car, letting it run for a minute or so, and then turning off. Go over to the right front wheel. You should hear the pump running for 5-20 seconds after turning the car off. Check for leaks.

Hope this helps those of you who (like me) are out of warranty and do not want to pad the pockets of the Stealership.

Thanks to 1FAST for coming up with this idea. Hopefully will save us all some $$$

[URL="http://mbworld.org/forums/c32-amg-c55-amg-w203/146457-1fastc32s-cheep-intercooler-pump-replacement.html#post1577864[/URL]

[loudandheard]

Purging the air from the coolant system

Originally Posted by Gramma_Benz

This is from a great thread on the OTHER Forum:

http://www.crossfireforum.org/forum/crossfire-srt6/27150-we-sure-he-water-system-self-burps-itself.html

I'll cut and paste some for the lazy...

The intercooler itself is a naturally occurring airlock. Merely by its location between the cylinder banks and the hoses feeding to/from it, air pockets will remain in the system unless it’s properly purged of its residual air. Neglecting to properly evacuate the fluid circuit will invariably result in higher IATs. Don't ask how I know.

OE intercooler fluid path, with yellow representing the air vent:



AMG’s specified procedure is to activate the intercooler pump via STAR Diagnostics while gently “pinching off” the (red) return hose just above the ‘T’ junction. Direct the vent hose to a suitable container in order to contain the discharge until only fluid (sans air) is observed. Most simply energized the pump with 12 volts DC from an external source to get it spinning.
Shown on an E55:


In the course of events leading to my quest for a better cooling system(s) I have drained the coolant several dozen times over the summer.

All above is true, however I have added a relay and a switch to power on my pump at will when the motor is off. I use it to do some testing but have found that the pump runs all the time you are driving, pretty much anyway. Engine on pump on but you want to be wary of the belts and fan start up, so use the clamp below and save a 911 call.

To bleed the system you partially pinch the return hose as described and drive around a bit and you will purge the air pronto. Just driving will do very little as bubbles will stream forth for a long time.

How do you pinch the hose and drive around with out getting hurt?

TA DAAA, get a hose clamp, open it and slip it around the 5/8" rubber hose below (lower ) than the wye at the i/c tubing as shown(aluminum) and tighten it slightly (pinch hose about1/3 closed - 2/3 normal diameter). THis will add enough restriction to raise the pressure in the hose and force coolant to flow into the recovery tank purging the air more rapidly.

Id do this with the cap loose as it will be cool enough to not need it and the lower pressure will make the bubbles more bouyant (bigger). Take a gentle spin down the street or idle for a while and return the i/c pump will be fully on, doing the purge. Stay out of the moving pieces and parts please.

In checking the flow I added the additional return hose to see the progress of this process (photo attached). I could monitor the purge by noting the clarity of the liquid stream. With my 2 square foot h/e it can take a bit of time.

Remember to loosen the clamp, you can leave it on for next time and with this approach you dont need to have the STAR gizmos.

Enjoy;Woody

Reaplced Water pump...best way to refill antifreeze and bleed system?

[super-amg]

Thanks my friend

[moosejaw]

YOur horsepower #s are definitely low
I dynoed 307hp stock on a dynojet here in Miami
What kind of dyno were u on?

Here is my stock dyno sheet

[super-amg]

Originally Posted by moosejaw

YOur horsepower #s are definitely low
I dynoed 307hp stock on a dynojet here in Miami
What kind of dyno were u on?

Dynomite , but i think that have problem the hp show in 5100 rpm , and the tempature very hot in the dyno 90 F

[super-amg]

I run 1/4 mille again i run 13.8 60ft 2.145 @99mph