C230 Mulac

So after having the car for a year and a half now, I decided it was finally time to make a thread. I LOVE this car and will probably keep it until it dies, but I wanted to post this as information for everyone since I've had to do just about everything to this car, as it was a salvage title vehicle. This should give you guys a good idea of how much a lot of these things cost to fix on a C55. So here goes the story.

Bought this black on black 2005 C55 Summer 2012 as a supplement to my white 2006 C230 (unfortunately totaled September 2012 ). So my C55 became my daily driver and I've just kept it that way for now.

This one is a little interesting, as the car was a salvage title vehicle (for those who don't know what that means, the car was totaled at some point in its life, someone bought it and repaired it, so it was "salvaged"). I knew I was going to run into some problems with it, and I definitely did, but considering that I bought it for $14k with 64k miles, I'd say putting some extra $ into it to get it running smoothly wasn't a big deal.

I'll have to get some pics tomorrow when it's light out and post them up, but for now, I'll do a quick summary of what's happened so far. I tell you what, it was a nightmare at the beginning, but it's finally in a good place. There were definitely times where I would think when will all of these problems end, but it's running well now.

Initial items needed:
1) Engine mounts - I know this is standard maintenance for this car, but I needed some at the time, bought for $200 and installed for $300
2) Strut mounts - These were cracked, both for $150, installed and aligned for $500
3) Trunk lock - bought and installed myself $115
4) Upper control arms, lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods, rear control arm bushings - Had my indy mechanic do this one and align everything, I think it ended up costing around $1500 for everything

Later on:
5) Spark Plugs - bought and installed myself $200
6) Tranny, Coolant, Brake Fluid flushed - I know a guy who owns a shop around here so got an awesome deal for them, spent $350 for all 3
7) Paint job - whoever repaired this thing did the sh**tiest paint job I've ever seen. Knew a guy at a body shop, got everything stripped down, repaired, and repainted with the OEM Mercedes paint. $3,600
8) Steering Rack - damn variable assist steering rack went bad, got one from a wrecked car for $106 and installed by a friend for $400
9) Stop tech rotors and Akebono ceramic pads - didn't quite need brakes yet, but close enough to get the ones I wanted, $400 for everything installed myself
10) Crankshaft Sensor - had cranking problems, researched the forum, bought one for $45 and installed myself
11) Speed sensor for front right wheel - got ESP/ABS warning, ran STAR with a friend, bought and installed myself for $50
12) Headlights - damn ballast went bad in the right headlight, looked like they had salvaged the housing because they were beat to sh** so I just bought a pair of aftermarket xenons as a cheap and quick fix to pass inspection, but will probably try to find some OEM ones eventually since I don't have the self-leveling anymore
13) Sunroof motor - sunroof never worked to begin with, but I eventually found a used OEM motor on eBay for $58 shipped, installed myself
14) Sunroof Seal - noticed a leak coming in through the passenger grab handle in the front recently, bought a sunroof seal, going to try to clean the sunroof drains out first, but figured it was good to have a seal around anyway, $61 for the seal
15) Misc. things - K&N air filters ($100), 5.5 AMG side badges ($20), glued a wheel center cap on the engine cover to replace the lost emblem (free)
16) Keyless entry stopped working - went to find out what was wrong, took apart liners in back and removed fuse box and traced wires, used volt meter, etc. By process of elimination, found that the same fuse that controls keyless and alarm is being blown by the alarm in the front of the car. Left that unplugged from the back of fuse box and fuse didn't blow. Car alarm doesn't work for now but I'd rather have my keyless. Will maybe replace alarm eventually, but I don't feel like spending $150 on it.

Things on the list to do:
1) DVD drive for NAV unit - went bad, trying to find one somewhere, cheapest I can find online is $300 for a used, rebuilt unit
2) Sunroof sliding cover - I don't know what the issue is, but whatever causes the friction that holds the cover is not working. What I mean is when I slide the cover open for example, if I have to slam on the brakes, the cover will slide forward and slam shut. Same goes for if it's closed and I gun it. I don't know what holds it in place, but I've popped it out and am going to try to figure this out myself.
3) I bought a voltage regulator the alternator just to have because I've found it is a common problem. I found it for around $40 with shipping and it's sitting in my trunk with a spare socket set I have so I always have it whe I'm on the road.
4) I've also got an idler pulley and drive belt in the spare tire well for an emergency situation.
5) My car is at 93k miles now and I figure I'll be wearing out these shocks soon, so I'm looking at the Bilstein PSS9 adjustable coil-over suspension set. Can be bought for around $2k, I think I found a place I can get it for around $1800. This will happen probably in the spring.
6) Got a strange noise from the rear left side when I make a sharp right turn. Kind of sounds like an electronic crackling, like metal is striking metal somewhere and I don't know what it is. Initially thought maybe the wheel is rubbing but there are no signs on the wheel of anything like this so I don't know? Will have to jack it up and look around a bit.
7) Floor mats - these are falling apart and the rear left one doesn't even exist anymore, so I'll have to just go to MB and buy a set since I can't find them anywhere online.
8) Exhaust - Will be getting the secondary cats and resonator cut out in February by one of my buddies (he has a garage with lifts in his backyard), can't wait for this!
9) Front passenger window - the top 2-3 inches of going up and down, the window slows down and sounds like the motor is straining, kind of like there is serious friction somewhere that it's fighting against. Not sure what it is but I know that when the window is wet after washing it doesn't really do it, so it's gotta be something stuck in there. Will have to take the door apart soon and figure it out before it gets warm out again.
10) Wheels - riding on AMG reps right now, but looking at new wheels in the Spring. Enkei Rajins are looking good cuz they're so light (20-21 lbs per wheel) and they're $1000 for a set of 4. If anyone has any experience with these, let me know!

I think that's about it for now. I'll update when I do some additional things in the near future.

Also, the roads are so sh**ty in DC that I've cracked the front right wheel TWICE by hitting potholes. I drive a lot more carefully around here now. Downside of low profile tires, but I guess I've gotta deal with it.

blacksage

Whew! You said it, it has been quite the ride!

falcuono

Impressive list...

Keep the list , very interesting for me because I'm also thinking buying a C55 as a daily.

How much fuel does it use in daily driving? I know : an AMG likes the stuff but just for my understanding.

After 20 years of BMW (E46 330i touring) its time to turm to the dark side..

Quickvr4

uh i have had up to 26mpg and average 19 combined with freeway and city...i only have a 3 miles stretch on freeway. 110k miles, had since 67k, only changed oil and spark plugs. Car is amazing and is reliable.

Duncan64

for sure an impressive list! i have the same car and i bought it last summer. its been extremely reliable after i fixed a lot of common issues. I went ahead and bought all those things like coolant, motor mounts etc... but those things are still in the packaging for in case i need them.

Marine Blue

Whenever you buy used you roll the dice. Due diligence helps your odds tremendously but it's still a gamble since you can't expect to find all the issues. I've owned cars with repair lists much longer than yours, my first 928 fell into that category.

Having said that, I bought my C32 about 14 months ago and have since put nearly 24K miles on it. With exception to a very minor leak from the rear main seal which I have had repaired to the tune of $900 I have not done anything but oil changes. I wish the gas mileage was better but it doesn't help that I have a lead foot and an addiction to torque. It reminds me of my long gone 500E which I also loved and wish I still had.

blacksage

I'm getting about 17 in the city and if I take it on the highway it can get as much as 24 or 25mpg. I usually fill up around 300 miles to the tank with about 80% city driving. I can say this, I owned a few E46 M3s and this car gets better gas mileage despite having a larger engine.

C230 Mulac

If I drive ONLY highway, say for a trip, and there is no traffic, I can maybe squeeze 24-25 mpg.

As much power as this car has, I just can't help but accelerate hard everywhere I go, soooo driving it to and from work in the DC area with all the traffic, I get 15-16 mpg. Combination of flooring it and then idling in traffic so this would probably be worst case scenario.

C230 Mulac

+1, always a gamble. I knew I was going to have problems since it was a salvage title, so I figured I'd have to basically "rebuild" a lot of major items (i.e. the front suspension members). But now that everything has been fixed the car has been good to me. Only issue I still have is the rear crank seal is leaking a little bit, but my buddy who is a tech at the dealership said don't worry about it since you have to drop the tranny to change it, so lots of labor, therefore lots of $$$$. I get a message on the dash every once in a while that says "at next gas station add 1 quart engine oil," so I just always keep a quart in the trunk in case I need it, but it's not leaking THAT fast so I just deal with it for now. Maybe one day if I have access to a lift and the tools I'll change it myself.

From the other members of the forum it looks like the car is pretty reliable, especially for a high performance vehicle. I don't know what it would take to maintain an SL 65, but I'm sure it's much more than this car.

Saaboteur

The twin turbo V12s are twin spark engines too - so 24 plugs. But only two coil packs...but they are like $1200-1300 each!

Driving a car like this, I don't think it's worthwhile to contemplate fuel economy. One doesn't buy an AMG with that in mind; one buys a tin can Prius or some other hybrid. In the really cold winter (like -25*C) my buddy's CTS-V was seeing 8-9 MPG!

C230 Mulac

Hahaha, I can't stand Prius. But you're right, you don't buy an AMG for fuel economy, you buy it for the exact opposite because this car is DESIGNED to be pushed!

C230 Mulac

Oh, and one more thing: I had to replace the seat frame when I bought the car. Took it to the car wash and moved the driver's seat all the way forward to vacuum behind it and it made a nasty metallic noise. When I tried to move it back I could hear the motor working but the seat wasn't moving. Now I'm not super tall or anything but I'm 6' and I had to cramp myself in the car and take it to my Indy to look at. Turns out it was the "seat frame" and cost me $1k to fix!!

ghiaguy

well, I'm never moving my seat again!

Speedriven1

keep in mind guys these are 10 year cars now with over 100k miles. Repairs are needed regardless of manufacturer.

adl320

Good post and I think OP did very well considering the risk of buying a salvaged title. Most of the big bits are actual standard repair or replace items with this car and being handy is a plus to reducing your ownership costs.

I bought a 2005 about this time last year and like you, couldn't be happier. I come from BMW but really think I'm becoming more a fan of MB. Well, at least AMG :-) mine was a single-owner example with 73k miles and nearly all of the major items done already, all records in hand. I now have 88k miles and outside of normal A/B service I've done tranny flush, new front Pilot Super Sports, plugs, wires (why not), valve cover gasket, CPS, temp sensor and a new fog light, all preemptive. My most expensive bill, $792 for all but the tires and tranny flush.

I've also logged all fuel and my total YTD cost is $2,918 with an average 19.29 MPG. I only use Chevron Premium fuel. Some things on the to-do list include; fuel filter, MAF clean or replace (trying to determine the cause of a slight lean running condition per STAR), rear tires and brakes eventually.

As much as I wanted an E55 in the beginning, and still love it's power and room, I also love the solid reliability AND performance in the C55. It's sleeper status is perfect for daily driving duty.

ghiaguy

I still don't understand why a company like Mercedes could produce a car that needs motor mounts at 30k and control arms at 50k. I keep telling myself: "its a V8 in a w203", but that is really no excuse. Maybe mine was run hard by the first owner, but damn!
Overall, I love the car but wish it was put together with higher quality bits and had a stick.

C230 Mulac

Fuel costs are about the same with mine. But yes, I think it could have been much worse than it has so I'm happy!

Quick question about the fuel filter though: I've heard on this car it's actually on or in the gas tank or something, and coupled with the fuel level sensor, so to replace it you have to replace both? I also had one of my buddies who works as a tech at the dealer tell me that he's never seen anyone replace a fuel filter on a C Class, but then again this isn't your normal C Class. So I don't know? He basically told me it's one of those "if it ain't broke don't fix it" kind of things.

And @ghiaguy, yes, the good ole engine mounts. They're just not good for whatever reason and there aren't any better ones out on the market either.

adl320

I'm actually trying to sort this out as well since I'm scheduled to get this done tomorrow! My Indy stated there are two types. One in the tank and another under the rear of the car. He said the filter with the four connectors is the under car type. That is what pulls up on parts sites like autohaus AZ. But I've also seen service manual images showing it as part of the tank on the driver's. Doing some more digging but still a little confused.

Tump43

The filter on the C55 is in the fuel tank and is part of the fuel level sender assembly. So to change the filter you have to replace the whole assembly. I think it's a $700 to $1000 job. Less if you do it yourself.

AutoGuy1314

The Enkei Rajins are sick looking. I think OZ Superturismo LM would look great on your car as well.

C230 Mulac

Here's some other things to add to the list:

The other day I noticed when playing a song with high bass it would cause a little rattling on the rear dash, but only at one certain frequency. I let it play and sat back there and listened closely to figure it out. I think it's the rear sunshade rattling a bit because when I hold it firmly it lessens the noise. So what I did is pull the sunshade up and listen and I think it's definitely that, BUT now the damn sunshade won't go back down. The two cross supports start to move in towards the center about an inch and just stop. I tried pushing them both in a bit hoping to push it back down, but it seems that I need to find a way to roll the mesh back in too. Not sure how to do that but will figure it out. The actual sunshade motor works because I can hear it start, but then it stops once the cross members move in a bit. I'm fine with just pushing it back in because I don't really use it anyway.

Yesterday my CEL came on. I just crossed 94k miles. I've already replaced the CPS so it's not that. I replaced the spark plugs recently but not the wires. I don't think it's a misfire because then it would run rough and there are no noticeable drivability issues. It shouldn't be anything with ABS/ESP because then I would get that warning light too. The only thing I can think of that it probably is would be either MAF or O2 sensor, so I will meet up with my friend with STAR tomorrow and run the codes. Will update after I do that tomorrow.

Damn problems need to stop! However, this isn't too bad. I would expect there to be a CEL at some point once nearing 100k miles. I'll be buying my parents old VW Jetta diesel shortly so I can use that as a daily driver and keep the miles off this baby (and save a lot of $ on gas too!).

gnma

Thank u for sharing. Now that my 55 has become a DD carrying my 8-month old, I often wonder if I should sell her due to age and mileage (60k), but I also see here how reliable these cars are. Mine is meticulous. I need to do plugs/wires, crankshaft sensor (preemptive), and possibly voltage regulator (preemptive).

What about belts? Book says to check v-poly belt at 60k. How about PS and alternator belts? Any thoughts on belt changes?

C230 Mulac

Are you talking about the drive belt at the front of the engine? What do you mean by PS and alternator belt, it should be the same drive belt for all of those, did you mean to say pulley?

You can check the belt and change it if you feel it is necessary, but you don't really have to until it goes bad. More importantly, the idler pulley and belt tensioner pulley are the ones that tend to go bad on these cars. On my C230, the belt tensioner pulley seized up one day I was out on back roads driving hard and I had to blast the heat and shut the car off every couple of miles to get it back home. So what I've done with this car, I have a spare drive belt and idler pulley in the spare tire well, along with a smaller socket set that I have and my torx bits, in case I ever break down somewhere I can change it then and there. I also keep a voltage regulator in there for the same reason. I should probably also get a belt tensioner pulley (if they sell it separately, for the C230 you had to buy the whole tensioner).

I'm not sure what the change interval on the drive belt is, but my advice would be to buy one, keep it in the trunk, and at least just keep a ratchet with the correct size socket for the belt tensioner release so if the belt fails, you can easily replace it. Or get everything I've got so you are more prepared, it's up to you.

The plugs wires you can probably wait a little bit longer. I did mine around 85k I think? They were pretty nasty, but it won't leave you stalled if you don't. You don't need to replace the spark plug wires unless they are misfiring. If so, you can pinpoint which one and replace only that one (they aren't the cheapest thing to replace if you do them all).

Crank sensor you could replace but I don't see any reason to do it preemptively. My order of events was: couple of days with a sketchy start up (i.e. cranking about 10-15 times before starting), researched forum, bought a sensor since it was only $45, day I went to replace it car wouldn't start on the first try but started on the second (also take into account it was very, very cold outside, but it still started regardless), CEL came on, replaced sensor, ran codes with STAR and confirmed it was the crankshaft sensor. So long story short, don't replace it until it goes bad because if you plan on keeping the car for a while, then you want to maximize the use out of it until your second sensor goes bad again.

gnma

C230 mulac: my apologies. I thought there were separate belts for the power steering (PS), and alternator. Looking at the manual, I see there is just one belt. Thank you much for your help, and great work on your 55!

C230 Mulac

haha, no prob! Thanks for the compliments