alfred dahdah

i have the same problem in my car, the day I change my solenoid into modified ones.thanks for your post.

jneal3110

Just a quick bump, i'm having the pvm solenoid installed tomorrow, will update with results. It's sick, but I can't wait - this tranny jerk has been a problem since I bought the car in 2008 and if it goes away with this fix I'm buying a bottle of Green Label and drinking it in your honor amgen.

C230 Mulac

I've been eyeing this thread for a while and wondering if I need to get the solenoid replaced...if I were to just replace the solenoid, how difficult would it be to replace myself? If not, does anyone know how much a shop would charge for this work?

ghiaguy

Amen! Good luck man- looking forward to hearing your experience!

Can someone please enlighten me on the modified solenoids? I'm not sure on what to change and how it improves the shifting? I would love to fix/improve the shifting on my car

~This thread is giving me a gentlemans crisis

jneal3110

My independent mechanic is charging $255 for labor, $90 for trans fluid replacement, $25 for pan gasket. I bought the part from MB of South Atlanta (mbpartsworld) for $67 incl shipping.

C230 Mulac

Thanks for the info!

So a little over $400...I guess for $255 labor they are figuring 2.5-3 hours. That's not too terrible of a price...still enough to make me want to save the $ and do it myself, I'll have to research this. If I can figure it out, I will post a DIY for everyone here.

Quickvr4

As another member already mentioned but did not receive a response, my transmission does this also but only when it is Hot. So it sounds like it is the opposite conditions of when everyone else's is doing it. Any ideas?

Kropf

If your C55 is a 2005 (which I'm guessing from your current signature "C55 -05"), you might have blue tops as some say were installed since 2005.

Off hand, I would say no. The solenoids are mounted on top of the valve body. When pulling the pan, you're looking at the bottom of the valve body.
But it's not hard to unbolt and lower the valve body to view the solenoids. Attached is a photo from below of my 1999 C43's mounted valve body. The other photo is the top of my 2005 E55's valve body while it lays in an oil drain pan. Notice the blue top solenoids. Some say that there are different number "blue-tops" which may or may not be functionally different, so make note of the actual M-B part number if you pull your valve body down to check them. (I found this tread very helpful when changing my Conductor Plate.)

C230 Mulac

Wow, that is an excellent thread you posted, Kropf, thank you for the info.

So I assume if I were to replace the valve body solenoids, I could follow that thread just to take the valve body out, replace them, and then put it back. Does anyone know if I should do any of the other stuff this guy did in the thread? Such as the plug bushing thing and regulator pressure control valve spring...

c32used

nice

scboost

any updates??

K3nD

I've been eying this tread for a while now to see if someone has the same symptoms as my C55. i almost had a identical experience with AMGen. Shortly after i bought the car i had a tranny flush done, few months goes by and the car starts jerking really hard on cold starts. I actually got into a habit of warming up the car 10-15 mins before driving it, that some what soften the jerk and eventually goes away after a little bit. Anyhow i had different mechanic take a look at issue and he suggested we remove 1 quart of tranny fluid since it was topped off little too much and then he suggested to use this REDLINE ATF additive. I was sceptical at first but after using one small bottle of this additive the jerking seemed to go away, only to slowly creep back 2 weeks later. the jerking is now very mild but still there none the less. i also notice that the jerk seems to be more pronouce while driving on "c" mode rather than 'S" mode.. anyone?

jneal3110

This will be a long-ish update. It will begin with

HOT FREAKIN' DAMN!!!!

The jerk is history - I'm beside myself. Over the years I've thought the fixes could be: replace TCU, do the Euro-charge TCU flash, replace the CPS, you name it (I didn't do any of those because of the expense and the lack of evidence they would work). I did two trans flushes and had the conductor plate replaced, with zero effect. By the end of the process I had to let the car warm up a solid 5 minutes for it to be drivable, but even after warm up the jerk was still there in bumper to bumper traffic, and I avoided taking any of my buddies anywhere in it out of embarrassment. The only thing I have to do now is retrain myself not to flinch when I know the jerk is coming...

Amgen, this MUST be made a sticky somewhere, for 2004+ W203 transmissions with the jerk-when-cold problem - this is a total root cause solution.

The one negative to report is that my 2-3 shift is sluggish when cold, which is probably due to another one of these solenoids and now I need to figure out which one and have it replaced, might DIY-it but it's NOWHERE near the annoyance the jerk was and I can live with it indefinitely. If anyone else does this, look into doing these solenoids all at once and save the labor.

On to the Green Label - Amgen, you are my hero.

amgen

I´m very happy for you!

So nice to roll away when cold with no jerks!

It´s normal that the transmission holds the gears a bit longer when cold,
so it gets up to normal workingtemperature faster.

Cheers!!

frejo

Since I also have the jerk when cold I'm thinking of changing solenoid as well. MB quote appr. $ 200 extra for this when changing my tranny fluid and filter, which I find reasonable. I did however find this on Youtube and I don't really understand what to look for besides that the rpm needle fluctuates some, something my rev counter also does.


Any input is much appreciated.

frejo

Also the part no MB gave me is A 240 270 17 00. is this the right part?

ghiaguy

I was watching that very same video yesterday and I'm not sure that it captures the feeling you get while driving the car. That numb lurch as the torque converter finally gives you the forward motion you are asking for- I AM SO SICK OF IT!!
I am interested in more confirmations of the pvm solenoid being the solution, jneal's recent success is really promising! I was also looking for more literature on the difference between colors of solenoid tops and the potential improvements that could be made on my C55 by swapping more than just the pvm...

frejo

I'll answer this myself. After some googling it seems like MB changed the part number into this one.

c32amgsuper

i FOUND ONE ON EBAY FOR $44 FREE SHIPPING
BUT ON LISTING DETAILS SAYS: Requires 2-Per Vehicle

Does it applying to 02 C32? I want to buy one, I just replaced transmission and still have jerk on shifts also some sort of vibration but not sure is it's coming from transmission.

please check if this is the right one
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-722...-/190772518483
thank you

C230 Mulac

It looks like the right one, but...

the new OEM one from RM European is $57:

http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Numbe..._5C1313F8.aspx

I would just spend the extra $13 knowing it's the right one from a credible source. Or e-mail the seller and ask him to give you the part # off of the one he is selling.

C230 Mulac

Also, $65 or more gives you free shipping on RM European, so just pick up an oil filter or MAF cleaner or something or $10 while you're at it

c32amgsuper

but on rm European part#2402701600 but they do not specify description of that solenoid,

jneal3110 in post #16 posted part #1402770435
which is the same as I found on ebay saying that is tcc/pwm solenoid
I got confused....

super-amg

If i change this solenoide my transmisión go more fast??

c32amgsuper

No, it won't go faster I wish it did) it will fix issue that most of our cars have - transmission jerk, better shifts

C230 Mulac

Interesting...could be an old part # or something. I just know I put in a 2002 C32 AMG and that's what RM European gave me. I trust them and they wouldn't give you the wrong part.