Naugamanator

+1 more ... Torque converter lockup 'jerk' gone after replacing the PWM solenoid. Brilliant fix!

amgen

Good to hear another 5-speeder fixed that stupid jerk!

zobr

Hello all,

I recently purchased a C55 and noticed the transmission has a slight jerk to it when the vehicle is cold. When driving locally there's a jerk or hiccup when it goes from 1st to 2nd gear. There is also a slight hiccup when it goes from 2nd to 3rd.

The hiccups are completely gone after about 20 minutes of driving. Could this be also related to the solenoid mentioned in this thread or something else?

Thank you!

amgen

Yes, it sounds like a bad PWM-solenoid.

zobr

Thanks.

The car has 70k miles and not sure whether previous owner serviced the transmission. Should I go with a drain and fill or a complete flush?

K3nD

I see your from my neck of the woods. I called every shop that specializes in MB in the Seattle area and I couldn't find anyone to change just the PWM soleniod. They all wanted to change the whole valve body instead. I finally found someone to do it after a year of searching. Where did you go to get yours replace?

K3nD

Our cars does not have a torque converter drain plug. So, unless your removing the TC all together for whatever reason, all you can do is drain and fill.

Naugamanator

Any transmission shop can do this - no MB tech required. I took the PWM solenoid to Kirkland Transmission - Tony and his crew had it changed in a couple hours for $370, including fluid.

zobr

For those that experienced the jerk, was it occurring right at the moment the transmission shifts from first to second?

Khan 55

I believe so as I am another user but a W209 55 with the same issue. Only felt when engine cold and tranny cold and shifts from 1st to 2nd then 2nd to 3rd and nothing thereafter.


Guys if I replace this component, I obviously only need the solenoid and nothing else right? Fresh fluid and filter too but do I need and clips or springs like someone mentioned on the previous pages?
Another question. Do I need to provide any proof of ownership for the vehicle if I buy something like this from agents as the last time I bought a new key and required the proof from the bank, they told me to buy any vehicle locks for the doors or whatever and something for the transmission as well I would require that. I cant recall now but I will check with an MB dealer and see what the price is. Maybe I be better off ordering it from the net like everyone else is.

insame1

If money is not an issue replace all of the solenoids, the conductor plate, and the trans filter. Also if you have replaced the trans connector now it is a good time.

Khan 55

Thanks Insame 1. Will look into it.

insame1

NP. most of this stuff is going to have to get done anyway. You might as well only have to pay for the service and trans fluid once.

K3nD

It can happen both before and after the 1-2 gear shift. It's more during low RPMs than anything.

zobr

What's weird is that today on a cold start, i put the car in manual mode and the jerk still occurred at around 1,800 rpm while still in first the whole time. Also, same thing when in second the jerk occurred as well way before i shifted manually to third.

I read through all 7 pages and no one was very descriptive of their issue. In addition to the jerk, it seems there was a moment when engine power cut off for a split second.

Could this be something entirely different than the TCC solenoid?

K3nD

I experience the "1st-2nd Jerk" on all three modes (C, S and M). Although, I notice the jerk being more violent on C mode than the other two. I don't think I ever notice the Jerking when shifting from 2nd-3rd however. I say get it replace anyways and report back.

insame1

incorrect info removed

amgen

C-mode starts in second, S-mode in first!

insame1

You are correct sir that is what i meant. C (comfort) starts in second so you have a softer launch

nanayaw6

Had to sign back into this thread and thank you guys. I have an 06 E55 and this fixed multiple problems i had been experiencing in my car. Disclaimer this is along post but thorough .

I rebuilt my trans fully exactly a year ago at 154k miles. All new friction and steel discs, new sprags (freewheel units), new rubber and teflon seals, retaining clips, needle bearings, main output bearing, copper bushings the whole 9. I even dismantled and cleaned the VB of all deposits and changed the conductor plate. I did not change the solenoids because all of them had perfect resistance values and my car came with blue tops already. Went ahead and put a higher stall converter in as well. Since then, I have had the most annoying vibration/droning sensation from the rear end specifically at 3k-4k rpm in 4th gear only almost like a bad wheel bearing or drive shaft ujoint. On my car this is where i make peak torque. This vibration would cause a random multiple misfire code sometimes because of how strong the shudder was. The vibration would cause my rear view mirror to make a rattling noise so I would typically hold it firmly just to keep it quiet.

I replaced both flex discs, differential bushings, rear subframe bushings and swapped TCUs from stock to tuned and still that vibration was there. Even swapped prop shafts with my brother's cls55 and it made no difference. I changed my tires from all seasons to Michelin PSS (softer tire), multiple wheel rebalance sessions and still made no difference. This problem was especially annoying as every time i am cruising on the highway and switch lanes to make a pass around 80 mph, the car would drop into 4th and then would shudder during the pass so I would manually drop to 3rd or upshift to 5th just to avoid the sensation. I even changed the diff fluid and it came out clear with no chunks or anything.

This past winter, I started getting the harsh bucking sensation described in this thread with my tuned TCU. Only when trans temp is below 60F. The car would jerk so violently my phone would fall out of its holder on the dash. The lighter my throttle input ( <40%) the more violent. This was in C mode. S mode and M mode didn't have this issue. Only way around it was to go medium to full throttle or when it starts to buck, fully let off the throttle and go back on after the TC clutch locks up. Giving it more throttle though would force the clutch to lockup in one attempt but my engine speed would drop instantly from the TC stall speed (~2800rpm) instantly to 1k rpm resulting in belt squeal. 5 minutes into the drive though the jerk would go away. Also, when i would switch to my stock TCU, i would not experience this. My theory is the tuned TCU was calling for a different lockup rate than the stock one and the worn solenoid couldn't achieve the required pressure. I performed the TCC adaptation with Star and it made it slightly better. Last week the car also started to give a slipping sensation during gear changes. Enough to make your head tilt forward for a good full 1-2 seconds during shifts. For us V8 kompressor guys, it felt as if the supercharger clutch would disengage during the shifts then gets engaged after 2s. You hear the motor revving as it normally should but the thrust sensation was just not matching. I was convinced it was a SC clutch issue until i looked at my logs and saw boost was staying flat during shifts so that led me to look again at the trans.

I replaced the TCC solenoid following all the testimonials in here and My God! What a difference!!! You can't tell when the TC clutch engages now, car feels so smooth and gear changes are quicker. Drove the car in traffic this morning. It was 40f outside when I started the car and on the same route, i repeated the same driving routine and no jerking/bucking. Gear changes in C mode are very refined and almost imperceptible at light throttle. Manual mode shifts are sharp. Most importantly, my 4th gear droning from the rear end is gone!!! My car feels like a brand new car thanks to you OP!!!!

The interesting thing is the new solenoid had the same 2.9 Ohm resistance as the old unit with 172k on it. My guess is it is worn in the exact position it typically stayed in while in comfort mode(90% of my driving) and kept jumping around as it was pulsed thus bleeding hydraulic pressure meant for engaging the clutch. In other words, the solenoid could no longer make precise adjustments to its opening / closing position and was causing unstable fluid pressure. The inconsistent/weak pressure results in the harsh clutch engagement and the clutch slippage at peak engine torque in my case.

If anyone is contemplating this, just do it because the resistance test might not reveal a failing solenoid and running the car this way can cause premature wear of the converter clutches when the solenoid is not letting the clutch go into full lockup while you're at full throttle.

I am so glad i don't have to drop the trans again to swap torque converters as that was my next troubleshooting step.
So many violent sensations my car had which i had attributed to having 500+whp all just turned out to be from less than ideal TCC control. The additional benefit too is the car feels more powerful as I am not losing power between the motor and the wheels.

THANKS AGAIN AMGEN.

amgen

I´m so glad my discover can help people out there!!! :-)

I went a long way before I came to that conclusion. It seems that many people suffer from
the jerk when the transmission is cold but very few know what to do about it.

In my case the jerk went away after replacing the solenoid but just recently I´ve noticed an
hesitation in the lock-up function and wonder if the solenoid gone south again?? It takes
a little too long for the lock-up to grab in, with very light throttle. Sometimes it seems like it wants to disengage during constant light throttle, no matter if it´s in 3:rd or 5 th gear. Changed the transmission oil and reset adaptation with STAR, with only minor improvements.
Any ideas would be really great!

Cheers.

PJmak

I had this on my c43 and it was very noticeable.

Eventually it went away for good

ikaika808

Who and where has the best prices on the BLUE TOP shift Solenoids...??? Want to do the upgrade at the same time as the PWN Solenoid... Thanks in advance... Ikaika808

Naugamanator

I have a pair of 240-270-00-89 blue tops NIB ... was going to do the same thing when I replaced the PWM solenoid, but chickened out. :>

$170/ea if you want them.

Ahmad Durrah

Hi... i have been reading this thread and replies for a while. its the exact same problem i have and I'm thinking to apply some on my car.

but my question is: is this thread and part numbers mentioned even applicable to my car --> A 2004 C200K SPORTS PACK ELEGANCE???